Chain Cleaner Tool

[comish83]

I was wondering if either of the two chain cleaner tools come recommended by anyone? GCN has a video recommending the Muc-Off X-3 which is $45 but I am curious if anyone has tried the $10 Fyong chain cleaning tool?

Muc-off X-3 $45
https://www.amazon.com/Muc-Off-277-Chain-Cleaning-Yellow/dp/B00K5OALY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482991786&sr=8-1&keywords=muc-off+x-3+chain+cleaner

Amazon also has a cheap $10 Fyoung Bike Cleaner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFB1640?ref_=pfb_fk94ckib7nc8bd3mdm48ldfi5i3&tag=hydfbook0e-20&ascsubtag=pfb-P01-V01-O3-B55

[ultraman6970]

Never used one of those because I always be under the impression that at the end the brushes inside of the devices end up so nasty that need to clean them afterwards.

Is faster and quicker just use the rag/paper towel and oil technique.

[Llewellyn]

Get an old paintbrush and the degreaser of your choice and smother the chain thoroughly. Let the gunk drip off and then wash. Cheaper than both of the options you listed (and much more effective too).

[dgauthier]

For $45 they can definitely muc-off...

+1 for a rag.

[KonaSS]

These type of cleaners can work well. I would go with the cheapo one. This isn't rocket science.

[oldpotatoe]

I was wondering if either of the two chain cleaner tools come recommended by anyone? GCN has a video recommending the Muc-Off X-3 which is $45 but I am curious if anyone has tried the $10 Fyong chain cleaning tool?

Muc-off X-3 $45
https://www.amazon.com/Muc-Off-277-Chain-Cleaning-Yellow/dp/B00K5OALY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482991786&sr=8-1&keywords=muc-off+x-3+chain+cleaner

Amazon also has a cheap $10 Fyoung Bike Cleaner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFB1640?ref_=pfb_fk94ckib7nc8bd3mdm48ldfi5i3&tag=hydfbook0e-20&ascsubtag=pfb-P01-V01-O3-B55

Buy some snap links, get a cleaned plastic milk bottle..some mineral spirits..chain off, shake, shake, shake, let dry, put back on.

I 'clean' my chain about once a month if I'm riding 4-5 days a week. I lube it when it sounds like I have a bird in my pocket..after that ride.

[martl]

Those who clean their chains a lot (especially with degreaser), end up buying lots of chains. I'm with Jobst Brandt on that one. Wipe outside clean with an oily rag, apply oil very carefully to the links, wipe excess off again.

[regularguy412]

I've had REALLY good luck with just good ol' WD-40 as the 'cleaner' (solvent). Wipe down really well and let it air-cure for a few minutes. Then follow up with some home-brew lube (3:1 ratio with camp fuel as the 3 and synthetic motor oil as the 1).I use a 1:3 ratio of the same stuff to lube other pivot points.

I just measured my chain that I've been using for 2 years ( ~6,000 miles) on my Fondo (7900 DA steel chainrings) and there is still NO appreciable stretch. I measured it at a couple of different points with same result.

I'm actually amazed at the lack of wear. I've worn out many, many chains in 30 years and this is the best result I've ever had.

I used to use one of those chain cleaners (Vetta). Found that it didn't really do much good and did, as others have posted, gunk up inside and needed, itself, to be cleaned frequently.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Cicli]

Those chain cleaners are a joke. OMS and a jar works well. OMS and a rag works really well too.
For a data point, I cleaned a cassette with simple green yesterday. It will be the first and last time I use simple green on a bike. Too slow and too much scrubing. OMS is better and works much better as a solvent. I would never use a water based cleaner on a chain either.
WD 40 works well as a solvent for cleaning.

[ultraman6970]

What is OMS?

[rwsaunders]

What is OMS?

Odorless mineral spirits.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I'm with Old Potatoe. Remove the damn chain from the bike, people. Use a jar, jug, ultrasonic cleaner or whatever works for you. If you want to clean the chain well, you need to remove it. I echo the "no water based anything", which seems very common sense to me.

[ultraman6970]

Thanks :)

[Jgrooms]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/69aef826c5239526c4a7f2ff9fcd87e5.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/4675d80d3fb9508062b6ca53ec400f9e.jpg

Drop wheel & install my chain cleaning hub.

Fill cleaner, attach & spin. Done. Works. Period.

Remove chain? One time replaceable link- unnecessary hassle imo.

Rag & solvent. Good quickie clean with WD-40. However, that isn't getting down between rollers & pins.

[Tony T]

I use the Park chain cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-CHAIN-CLEANER-CM-5-2-CYCLONE/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483019687&sr=8-2&keywords=park+chain+cleaner) and Pedro's Oranj Peelz (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Citrus-Bicycle-Degreaser-16-Ounce/dp/B000IZEGYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483019738&sr=8-1&keywords=pedro+oranj)
(Muc-off looks like a Park knock-off)

Park brushes are removable from the tool for easy cleaning.

[Clancy]

Cleaners are a waste of time? Just wipe off using a rag or even WD-40?

Wow, really?

People who clean their chains using degreasers a lot buy more chains?

Wow, really? I'd like to see some data on that statement.

Wipe a somewhat dirty chain with your fingers, then rub your fingers together. You'll feel the fine grit that's imbedded in the oily film that's on and in the chain. That's a fine grinding paste that's grinding down the drivetrain.

The only way to remove it from both outside and inside the chain is by cleaning with a method that gets the old gritty lube out of the rollers and pins.

Taking the chain off and soaking will not do that unless you also shake aggressively somehow the chain in the solution. The grit you feel from outside the chain is also imbedded inside the pins/rollers.

The Parks cleaner does a really good job, quick, cheap, easy. I've used Simple Green for years. Full solution or diluted. The key is to do 2-3 cycles until the solution comes out clear. Then! Do again with water to get the Simple Green out. Then let dry, lube, and wipe off the excess.

Last I saw the Parks retails for $25. Go to a big box store and buy a gallon of Simple Green. Buy the Park's cassette brush, and you're done.

Most people do not clean their chain enough or do it incorrectly. They then compound the problem by using too much lube. Way too much. Ideally you only want lube on the inside of the rollers.

I regularly clean my chain and the whole process takes maybe 10-15 minutes. When I'm in a hurry I'll do a quick lube and wipe down which is better than nothing. Wiping down with a rag sprayed with WD-40 also works in a pinch, surprising well. But only a complete cleaning will get the grit out of the inside of the chain, and the Parks does this better than any home method I've ever seen.

[Mark McM]

Cleaners are a waste of time? Just wipe off using a rag or even WD-40?

Wow, really?

People who clean their chains using degreasers a lot buy more chains?

Wow, really? I'd like to see some data on that statement.

Wipe a somewhat dirty chain with your fingers, then rub your fingers together. You'll feel the fine grit that's imbedded in the oily film that's on and in the chain. That's a fine grinding paste that's grinding down the drivetrain.

The only way to remove it from both outside and inside the chain is by cleaning with a method that gets the old gritty lube out of the rollers and pins.

Taking the chain off and soaking will not do that unless you also shake aggressively somehow the chain in the solution. The grit you feel from outside the chain is also imbedded inside the pins/rollers.

The Parks cleaner does a really good job, quick, cheap, easy. I've used Simple Green for years. Full solution or diluted. The key is to do 2-3 cycles until the solution comes out clear. Then! Do again with water to get the Simple Green out. Then let dry, lube, and wipe off the excess.

Last I saw the Parks retails for $25. Go to a big box store and buy a gallon of Simple Green. Buy the Park's cassette brush, and you're done.

Most people do not clean their chain enough or do it incorrectly. They then compound the problem by using too much lube. Way too much. Ideally you only want lube on the inside of the rollers.

I regularly clean my chain and the whole process takes maybe 10-15 minutes. When I'm in a hurry I'll do a quick lube and wipe down which is better than nothing. Wiping down with a rag sprayed with WD-40 also works in a pinch, surprising well. But only a complete cleaning will get the grit out of the inside of the chain, and the Parks does this better than any home method I've ever seen.


The ONLY way to really get a chain clean:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

[Cicli]

The ONLY way to really get a chain clean:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Thats my method in the off season. Works really well.

[FlashUNC]

Brush, degreaser, rag, done.

[Tony T]

Easier to use the Park tool with the chain installed than a brush.
Clean in less than 5 minutes.

[Bob Ross]

last time I use simple green on a bike. Too slow and too much scrubing. OMS is better and works much better as a solvent.

That's weird, I've had exactly the opposite experience: For me OMS doesn't work as quickly nor as effectively as Simple Green. Bizarre.

[Fatty]

Taking the chain off and soaking will not do that unless you also shake aggressively somehow the chain in the solution. The grit you feel from outside the chain is also imbedded inside the pins/rollers.







Super easy to do. As already mentioned, drop chain in a closed container with your favorite degreasing agent. Put lid on container. Shake, rattle and roll. Remove 99 % clean chain.

[bart998]

I use the Park tool and a little Dawn and water... cleans great. Then I blow the chain dry with a compressor and re-lube. Good to go. Every few months I take the chain and cassette off and clean everything thoroughly with solvent. I prefer spray carb cleaner because it evaporates almost immediately.

[Cicli]

Then what lube? :fight:
While we are picking the fly poop out of the pepper and all.

Really? Its just a chain. Does it really matter?

[drewellison]

Park Tool has a new shop quality chain cleaner CM-25. I have not used it and I see it's pretty darn expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CM-25-Professional-Scrubber/dp/B01M1B95OC

Many years ago, I heard from an owner of a very reputable bike shop to not use Simple Green to clean chains. He said he'd heard enough stories about people breaking chains, and they all used Simple Green to clean them. He figured that something in SG probably slowly wore down the metal over time until something gave way. Don't flame me ... that's just what this one guy, whose opinions and thoughts I trust, said.

[vqdriver]

i used to just wipe down with a solvent and then lube after an hour or so. that worked well enough. then i bought the park chain cleaner thing just on a whim and it really really cleans the chain. i mean it looks new type clean. then wipe dry and lube. not something to do very often, but i suspect doing it every certain # of miles is fine, or # of hours if mtb.

couple things:
- removing the chain isn't difficult, but it's actually more work without any tension on the chain.
- i don't see the point anymore of just cleaning the outer plates of a chain, that's the cosmetic part. the interaction of the inside of the chain and the cogs/rings is what will cause wear so you really need a brush to get in there. if anything, wiping down with a rag will just push the grime further into the chain where you can't reach it.
- you don't 'need' a chain cleaner device, you can use any old toothbrush. but it's that plastic shroud that's the key. it eliminates the splatter and makes the job much faster and cleaner.

if you want to clean your chain, there's lots of ways to do it. just like everything else, it depends on how much time/effort you want to put into.

[bigbill]

I used odorless mineral spirits and a rag to clean the chain. It doesn't need to be spotless, just clean enough with a follow up of a good lube.

When I was stationed in Hawaii and daily commuted, I did what Oldpotatoe does. Gatorade bottle and orange cleaner, every two weeks. I'd get three months 1800-2100 miles out of a chain and twice that out of a cassette. That volcanic dirt really wore stuff out.

[Pi Guy]

Add me to the no fancy-schmancy tool count. I've tried a couple and they always seem to be more hassle then they are worth. More often then not I'll just give the chain a good wipe and relube. If it's really nasty I'll take it off and shake it in some solvent. My cycling (and wrenching) time is limited and I can live without a spotless chain.

[FlashUNC]

Cleaning the chain without cleaning the cassette is a waste of time. So I don't get the need for a specialized tool to do it. Couple good brushes, degreaser and a hose to give it a good rinse are all you need really.

Or just do it proper and give the bike a decent wash while you're at it.

[Seramount]

bitd, used to remove the chain, degrease with white gas, wash in hot soapy water, rinse with boiling water, bake in an oven, dip in melted paraffin. seriously fiddly process and lasted about 50-100 miles...

then bought one of those clamp-on cleaning devices, used it twice...was a messy PITA, tossed it in the trash.

since I don't ride in wet, sloppy conditions just use an old t-shirt to wipe after every ride. takes 10 seconds...chain only comes off to be replaced.

using the simple wipe-down and lubing with Chain-L, I get outstanding service life (6-10K mi) so just don't see the point of fussing about over a $30 wear item.

[Tony T]

…so just don't see the point of fussing about over a $30 wear item.

A dirty chain is like sandpaper on a cassette.

[R3awak3n]

no $30 campy cassette so I guess campy people have to be a bit more careful. Cheapest 11 speed cassette is over $100.

I use the park tool chain cleaner thing and pedros orange peel. I love the pedros stuff, I got a big jug of it and lasts a while. The park tool cleaner is cool and all but I would not buy it again. Its kind of unnecessary and it does not do that good of a job. Rather just take chain out and use pedros through it and get it really really clean. Sure its a bit more work and a bit more messy but does a much better job.

[Seramount]

A dirty chain is like sandpaper on a cassette.

guess my chains don't get very 'dirty'...

using my slacker cleaning protocols, they seem to last a long time...as do cassettes and chain rings.

[Tony T]

guess my chains don't get very 'dirty'...


Wear, of course, will depend on riding conditions.
(And it does not need to be dirt. If someone is riding near the beach, it will really be sandpaper on the cassette)

[OtayBW]

I am a big proponent of Missing Links, but I just don't take my chains off very often. I do wipe them down after every ride, and I use the NFS, which although it is often viewed as some kind of witches brew around here, it does keep the drivetrain very clean. No noise for hundreds of miles, and I'm picky about that.

[ColonelJLloyd]

No noise for hundreds of miles, and I'm picky about that.

I live on a street that is part of a bike route. All sorts of riders come by every day. Most of them have drivetrains that are crying out in agony. I would leave a bottle of chain lube and a sign that said "free" on my retaining wall if I had any confidence a single person would use it. Sometimes when I'm in my yard and one rides by I just want to yell, "Hey, can I lube your chain for you? Takes 15 seconds. Wait! No, no, really. Your bicycle chain is dry!"

[OldCrank]

Much as I'd love to disassemble a chain in a bunny suit, I've been using the Park Tool unit.
There's always sand on the roads, and a lot of sand comes off/out of the chain when running it thru the Park. I spray the chain/cassette/rings/derailleurs with citrus cleaner first, scrub with toothbrush. Additional scrub if I still see a lot of crap between the plates. Then a couple ride thru the Park.
Wipe with rag, blow dry, wipe with 3M adhesive cleaner, then this stuff:
http://www.dry-fluids.com/dryfluid-bike-2.html

I tried the shake-in-a-bottle with the SRAM chain on my cross bike. Lots of filth came off. Looked nice and silver again. Then, just for yucks, ran it thru the Park- surprising amount of sand came off, not as much dark gunk (grease and dirt I guess).

Yep the brushes get dirty, I wipe them between 'wash cycles', and again after. I may invest in another set.

I tried a cheap ($6?) unit from China, fewer brushes which did not turn. Useless, fortunately they took it back.

[OtayBW]

I live on a street that is part of a bike route. All sorts of riders come by every day. Most of them have drivetrains that are crying out in agony. I would leave a bottle of chain lube and a sign that said "free" on my retaining wall if I had any confidence a single person would use it. Sometimes when I'm in my yard and one rides by I just want to yell, "Hey, can I lube your chain for you? Takes 15 seconds. Wait! No, no, really. Your bicycle chain is dry!"
Ha Ha! Well, you know the old saying: You can lead a horse to water....etc. I actually prefer the other saying: You can't fix stupid!

[Tony]

Have three mtbs, one road and one cross all in regular use. I use my own mix, Mobil 0W-40 synthetic, 1 part mineral spirits. I can make half a gallon for the same price of some chain lubes. I use this mix to clean and lube the chain. I soak the chain, about ten crank revolutions then wipe down the chain with several paper towels until little lube is transferred to the towels. For me a lot of having a quiet and clean drive train is a quick wipe down with a paper towel after the first two rides. This takes less than a minute to do but does wonders keeping the chain clean for the next 200 to 300 miles on my road bike.
Mtbs and cross, same cleaning/lubing method done every two to three rides depending on conditions with a wipe down in between.

[chiasticon]

I've had REALLY good luck with just good ol' WD-40 as the 'cleaner' (solvent).this dude advocates it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvzVRxlIUL0

says that if you use wd40 as the cleaner AND the lubricant, it works great.

personally, I use NFS and it stays pretty clean. I clean the side plates every few rides with a rag. apply a few drops every couple weeks. unless I hit some real muck and have to clean it all off and re-do it all. even then, I still don't use a de-greaser, except on the chainrings and cassette. seems to work. probably 5K out of each chain.

[Lifecycle]

I use the w-d40 branded silicone
And a rag go over and over it and if really nasty I use a toothbrush
This method has worked well for me and is fairly cheap

Ive tried the w-d40 in the past but it just collects dirt that much quicker :(

[bewheels]

...

personally, I use NFS and it stays pretty clean. I clean the side plates every few rides with a rag. apply a few drops every couple weeks. unless I hit some real muck and have to clean it all off and re-do it all. even then, I still don't use a de-greaser, except on the chainrings and cassette. seems to work. probably 5K out of each chain.

Same here.
Wipe down after a ride by pulling the chain through a rag with gripping it fairly tight. Clean off the RD pulley wheels. This takes 30 seconds.
Every once and a while wipe off the chainrings. This takes 20 seconds.
Done.
You will have a clean and quiet drivetrain.

Only when it is chirping, put a few (5-8) drops of NFS randomly on the chain, run the chain through the gears a few times. This spreads the lube around the chain.

And yes I ride in the rain, through/over dirty roads, sandy roads, slush, snow, salted roads, etc, etc. My bikes are not babied.

The most common reason drivetrains end up with so much gunk on the drivetrain is because there is too much lube on them and they are not wiped down regularly.

[Clancy]

A quiet chain is not necessarily a clean chain.

Some posts where the term quiet chain is used to imply a clean chain.

Feel for grit, if it's there, quiet or not, that chain is dirty and happily grinding away.

Only a clean chain is clean

[Spinner]

I've used mineral spirits before for cleaning chains, however today was the first time I used an air compressor with a blow gun to finish the job. Hanging the wet chain outdoors, the air gun did a fabulous job of drying the chain.

I can't imagine doing it any other way now.