Torque Wrench...

[oldguy00]

Hey folks, after 20 years of doing mostly my own wrenching on my bikes and never using a torque wrench, I'm thinking of getting one. New carbon ride incoming and might be a bit more fragile than others..

I don't want to break the bank...

SO, is there anything wrong with the Park variety?
If I go with a more expensive one, Silca or Effetto, is there any guarantee they are more accurate? How do you ever know whether or not the wrench is accurate??

Also, I guess I am mostly thinking for small bolts, in the 3-10nm range. But do any of you use the for cranks? I figure that is still something that is mostly by feel, etc?

Thx!

[oldpotatoe]

Hey folks, after 20 years of doing mostly my own wrenching on my bikes and never using a torque wrench, I'm thinking of getting one. New carbon ride incoming and might be a bit more fragile than others..

I don't want to break the bank...

1)SO, is there anything wrong with the Park variety?
2)If I go with a more expensive one, Silca or Effetto, is there any guarantee they are more accurate?
3)How do you ever know whether or not the wrench is accurate??

Also, I guess I am mostly thinking for small bolts, in the 3-10nm range. 4)But do any of you use the for cranks? 5)I figure that is still something that is mostly by feel, etc?

Thx!

1)-nope, nice piece of gear
2)-nope
3)-only by sending it to a calibration place but DIY ways to check it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDh4HzWCGic
4)-I do, square taper/UT/PT, and of course all shimano crank pinch bolts.
5)-see above

[Cicli]

The park tools wrench is fine.
This CDI works really well too.

[Mikej]

Beam type torque wrenches do not require calibration, click type do. Not sure it's really needed to calibrate a click type, I work in a lab that has all click type wrenches calibrated every 6 months. I think I've seen an ajdustment 1 once in 20 years. Just don't drop it or use it to lefty loosy. I use the PRO shimano set at home but also have a multitude of snap on from my heavy equipment days. You will find that you actually need a 1/4" and a 3/8" drive to get larger torque specs met. Check out nashbar- they had a ton of sale items.

[purpurite]

FWIW, I was going to buy the Park beam torque wrench this past fall to do left and right BB cups when I found a Masterforce beam wrench with a 3/8" drive and 1/2" adapter for $6 at Menard's. Works perfectly.


EDIT: Found it online here (https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/hand-tools/wrenches-wrench-sets/tool-shop-reg-2-way-torque-wrench/p-1444428088305-c-9157.htm?tid=1237177017214078684)... I don't ever skimp on my tools, but it's really hard to justify spending more cash on a beam-type wrench.

[Red Tornado]

I have a Craftsman beam type torque wrench (owned it for at least 15 years). One day I noticed the pointer was not aligned with zero, it was always returning to +2 ft-lbs. Since then I only use it for crank/BB and other similar applications, many non-cycling, where the range is wide enough that being off a couple ft-lbs won't hurt. For smaller stuff there's a good variety of Ritchey torque-keys and similar that work well. No more than I use them, I can't justify the expense of an expensive torque wrench or two sitting around collecting dust. But that's just me and the same can be said for many bike tools.

[Tony T]

SO, is there anything wrong with the Park variety?


The Park TW-1 mini-beam type is a great wrench for low-torque bolts

[Tony T]

I have a Craftsman beam type torque wrench (owned it for at least 15 years). One day I noticed the pointer was not aligned with zero, it was always returning to +2 ft-lbs

Usually bending the pointer back to 0 will recalibrate a beam torque wrench.

[lookout2015]

The park tools wrench is fine.
This CDI works really well too.

This CDI torqcontrol one is the one I use for small bits too. Nice tool

[R3awak3n]

I use the CDI too, its been excellent.

[Red Tornado]

Usually bending the pointer back to 0 will recalibrate a beam torque wrench.

Did that. After a few uses it went back to +2. I can live with it. Checked it against a friend's click-style wrench (so he knew where it was set) and my wrench was 2-3 lbs off, so no worries.
I would like to replace it, but just don't use a bigger torque wrench enough to justify the purchase over-and-above other things.

[Tony T]

Craftsman hand tools have a lifetime warranty.
Not sure if it covers their torque wrench, but might be worth looking into if you're near a Sears.

[cadence90]

I have an old Craftsman for larger torque, and it been great for decades.
For smaller (2-8NM) work I bought the CDI TorqControl from Pro Torque Tools. They had the best price at the time. The CDI is great, very comfortable, easy to set, very legible, well-made, certified calibrated. I really like it.

http://www.protorquetools.com/cdi-torqcontrol-2-8-nm-adjustable-t-handle-torque-wrench-tla28nm/

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/products/144/images/638/CDI_TLA28NM__35323.1439666537.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

[oldguy00]

Thanks all. Looks like that CDI wrench is available at my local MEC (mountain equipment coop, Canada!) for about $68. Will probably give that a try!

[OtayBW]

So, what do y'all use to ratchet down a cassette to 40 Nm with your crescent wrench???

[purpurite]

A Park Tool lockring tool on the end of a 3/8" torque wrench.

http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/product/_productDetail/FR-5_001.jpg

[Tony T]

So, what do y'all use to ratchet down a cassette to 40 Nm with your crescent wrench???

I use a cheap Neiko click type torque wrench

[Tony T]

I also have one of these for times I don't torque:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31BtePbMi6L.jpg

[OtayBW]

A Park Tool lockring tool on the end of a 3/8" torque wrench.
I use a cheap Neiko click type torque wrench

My lockring tool has a hole in the middle and my torque wrenches are ratchet drive with no facility to accomodate either the Park center section or a large hex nut. Still looking for something...

[Tony T]

My lockring tool has a hole in the middle and my torque wrenches are ratchet drive with no facility to accomodate either the Park center section or a large hex nut. Still looking for something...

SpinDoctor Campy 1/2" drive :


http://media.performancebike.com/images/performance/products/product-hi/40-3770-NCL-TOP.JPG?resize=415px:415px&output-quality=100

[OtayBW]

SpinDoctor Campy 1/2" drive :
Well - OK. That does work. Shame you can't torque the Park Tool wrench with anythink that I've found, but what the hey?

[jzisk]

Gotta put one vote in for the Effeto. Not the ratchet $200 model but the fixed, sometimes to be had for around $90 at Art's... I used Park, Craftsman and several others over the years, for all sorts of purposes, and the Effeto is one of the nicest feeling tools in-the-hand. And it's prolly in the same vein that I also like the Wera ratchet screw-driver, and some gorgeous late 19th century British infill hand-planes By Norris or Mathieson, along with a 1940 Stanley Bedrock 604-1/2, for woodworking. There is an aesthetic to the tool-in-hand which can be as exquisite as long miles on a fine frame, well built up, ridden hard and focused.

[PacNW2Ford]

Well - OK. That does work. Shame you can't torque the Park Tool wrench with anythink that I've found, but what the hey?

I use a 1" socket. Someday I will find a rubber bushing to reduce the depth, but for now paper towel bits stuffed in the socket works fine.

[OtayBW]

I use a 1" socket. Someday I will find a rubber bushing to reduce the depth, but for now paper towel bits stuffed in the socket works fine.That's workable...thanks.

[purpurite]

My lockring tool has a hole in the middle and my torque wrenches are ratchet drive with no facility to accomodate either the Park center section or a large hex nut. Still looking for something...

It should have a hex on the outside of the drive, correct?

If it's a Park, I think it's about 25mm hex, which mates to a 1" deepwall socket that can be used on your torque wrench. I have a few other cassette tools in various sizes, and there are sockets that mate to each of them.

[purpurite]

I use a 1" socket. Someday I will find a rubber bushing to reduce the depth, but for now paper towel bits stuffed in the socket works fine.

Whoops, yea, what he said. Serves me right for not refreshing the page before I answered.

[FlashUNC]

Carbon bits? Always with a torque wrench. Cheap insurance.

[merlincustom1]

I use a 1" socket. Someday I will find a rubber bushing to reduce the depth, but for now paper towel bits stuffed in the socket works fine.

I second the Effetto, great tool. For pedals, bb, and cranks I use a Husky 3/8 drive ratchet.

Oops, wrong quote. I was referring to post #22

[lonoeightysix]

My lockring tool has a hole in the middle and my torque wrenches are ratchet drive with no facility to accomodate either the Park center section or a large hex nut. Still looking for something...

Crowfoot

[djg21]

So, what do y'all use to ratchet down a cassette to 40 Nm with your crescent wrench???

http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/best-sellers/products/dual-sided-crombie-tool

and

http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/

These are two great tools. I tighten the lock ring by hand. It is difficult to over-tighten a cassette lock ring unless you are affirmatively trying.

[OtayBW]

http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/best-sellers/products/dual-sided-crombie-tool

and

http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/

These are two great tools. I tighten the lock ring by hand. It is difficult to over-tighten a cassette lock ring unless you are affirmatively trying.
Nice, but no torque, huh?


Crowfoot
Crowfoot.....cryptic. I'm intrigued.


I'm fine with dropping a socket down on the Park tool. I never thought of that...

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[teleguy57]

http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/best-sellers/products/dual-sided-crombie-tool

and

http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/

These are two great tools. I tighten the lock ring by hand. It is difficult to over-tighten a cassette lock ring unless you are affirmatively trying.

Got the crombie two seasons ago and love it; received the Pedro's for Christmas and love it as well.

I have the CDI and it works well. Couldn't resist picking up the Silca ti torque set on Kickstarter so I have something to take on the road when doing those handlebar/stem tweaks while on fine-tuning rides. However.... have only fondled it so far and may decide that I have just too many similar tools...

[djg21]

Nice, but no torque, huh?



Crowfoot.....cryptic. I'm intrigued.


I'm fine with dropping a socket down on the Park tool. I never thought of that...

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I'm all for torque wrenches for applications where overtightening can do damage, i.e., stems, stem faceplates, etc., but it really is difficult to overtighten a cassette lock ring that calls for so much torque to tighten in the first place.

I'm more concerned about undertightening them, which allows the cassette to move and can result in the freehub getting scored.

I tighten lock rings until firmly and place, and then a couple of "clicks." The Abbey tool is a decent gauge because it's not as long as a pipe-wrench and doesn't lend the leverage that could more likely lead to overtightening. But even with a pipe-wrench or long socket wrench, it's really hard to overtighten a cassette lock ring.

BTW, I've been using an Effetto Mariposa Giustsforza torque wrench set I've had for at least 10 years. It was the only game in town when I got it, but there are many lesser expensive alternatives available now. But I can attest to the durability.

https://www.rei.com/product/823101/effetto-mariposa-giustaforza-ii-deluxe-torque-wrench-kit?s_kwcid=PS_Google%7C401_3316162%7C_inurl%3A_mc id%3A%201209243%20_and_%20_custom_label%3A%20rei%2 0_and_%20_product_type%3A%20cycling%20_and_%20_pro duct_type%3A%20bike%20accessories%20_and_%20_produ ct_type%3A%20bike%20tools%20and%20maintenance%23in url%3A_product_type%3A%20bike%20tools%23inurl%3A_p roduct_type%3A%20bike%20wrenches%7CNB%7Caccb2a19-68bd-4e86-ac56-13d91b78857d%7Cdsa-192204612245&gclid=CIWck9jpldECFQKHswodSBsA0A

[OtayBW]

http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/best-sellers/products/dual-sided-crombie-tool

and

http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/

These are two great tools. I tighten the lock ring by hand. It is difficult to over-tighten a cassette lock ring unless you are affirmatively trying.
The only reason I brought this up is because I recently purchased a Wahoo Kickr, and they took great pains to indicate that Thou Shall Not Torque To Greater Than 40 Nm!

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[djg21]

The only reason I brought this up is because I recently purchased a Wahoo Kickr, and they took great pains to indicate that Though Shall Not Torque To Greater Than 40 Nm!

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That's a bit different than wrenching on your bike. I have no idea how overtightening the cassette/lock ring could affect the the Kicker or the Kicker's electronics. 40Nm is really high torque though. If you are conscious of overtightening, you'd probably be safe. But using a torque wrench, at least the first few times, might be good for peace of mind.

[OtayBW]

That's a bit different than wrenching on your bike. I have no idea how overtightening the cassette/lock ring could affect the the Kicker or the Kicker's electronics. 40Nm is really high torque though. If you are conscious of overtightening, you'd probably be safe. But using a torque wrench, at least the first few times, might be good for peace of mind.
40 Nm is what is specced on Campy lock rings. I'm with you, though - I always just tightened plenty tight to ensure no slippage. Beyond that, I never worried about overtorquing. Never had a problem (and I sold the Kickr.....).

Gawd - this freaking auto-correct on this phone is a royal PITA!...



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[djg21]

40 Nm is what is specced on Campy lock rings. I'm with you, though - I always just tightened plenty tight to ensure no slippage. Beyond that, I never worried about overtorquing. Never had a problem (and I sold the Kickr.....).

Gawd - this freaking auto-correct on this phone is a royal PITA!...



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Why did you lose the Kicker?

[Clancy]

40nm is what's standard, but agree the Abby combo is a beautiful tool, perfectly made. It's length makes it pretty difficult to over torque.

The Pedro's Chain Whip is handy but it's short length just doesn't have enough leverage to manage cassettes that are stuck on. When I have a lock ring that's been over torqued or maybe corroded, I use the good old Parks chain whip.

For the guy working on his own bikes, the Parks makes more sense, if the need ever came up, and it will, to remove a stubborn cassette.

[OtayBW]

Why did you lose the Kicker?
I got a good deal on a Tacx Neo which is really a nice piece of kit, I must say. So I sold the Kickr here locally.

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[Pi Guy]

I got a Shimano PRO torque wrench for home shop use a while ago. It was too good of a deal to pass up. It's certified and has worked just fine though the scale is a bit funky.

I'll add to the Crombie praise too. It really is a nice tool and a torque wrench isn't super necessary for cassette lockrings. 40Nm is a lot of torque, it would be pretty hard to over do it.

[BlueFly]

Thanks to the search - I also picked one of these up as a birthday gift! :beer:

Gracie Mille!

I have an old Craftsman for larger torque, and it been great for decades.
For smaller (2-8NM) work I bought the CDI TorqControl from Pro Torque Tools. They had the best price at the time. The CDI is great, very comfortable, easy to set, very legible, well-made, certified calibrated. I really like it.

http://www.protorquetools.com/cdi-torqcontrol-2-8-nm-adjustable-t-handle-torque-wrench-tla28nm/

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/products/144/images/638/CDI_TLA28NM__35323.1439666537.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

[drewellison]

If you're only going to do it once in a while for those larger torque settings like crank and cassette, your can always set up your own torque wrench with a long wrench and a hand held scale, like an electronic luggage scale.

1. Convert the Nm setting to foot-pounds.
2. Use a wrench at least a foot long.
3. Attach your scale to the wrench at one foot from the pivot.
4. Pull on the scale at a right angle to the wrench until the reading is the correct number of pounds.

If you use a two foot long wrench, it's half the pounds. And vice versa.

[simplemind]

Topeak D-Torq Wrench, I have it, I like it, and according to some tests (http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/best-torque-wrench-for-bicycle-grouptest-46517/), it's the most accurate.


http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2016/03/01/best-torque-wrenches-for-cycling-2016-72-1456897726523-qhtq5i8c0tvp-630-354.jpg

[crimedog]

I got a 1/4" and 3/8" Tekton torque wrench from Amazon, 1/2" from Harbor Freight. They all work equally well but the HF fit and finish sucks. From what I've come to understand click type torque wrenches simply reply on a spring and will stay in calibration as long as you set them to the minimum torque setting when storing them.

[R3awak3n]

Topeak D-Torq Wrench, I have it, I like it, and according to some tests (http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/best-torque-wrench-for-bicycle-grouptest-46517/), it's the most accurate.


http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2016/03/01/best-torque-wrenches-for-cycling-2016-72-1456897726523-qhtq5i8c0tvp-630-354.jpg

I hope it is at $240