About to jump into TUBELESS, anything I should know first?

[weisan]

I have got like 5 or 6 pairs of wheels sitting in the garage that are tubeless compatible but it never occurred to me until now to consider going tubeless.

Anything I should know before I actually DO IT!?

I am more curious that anything else, not looking for any weight saving or better puncture resistant or ride quality. I like to try things out, that's all.

In terms of choice of components, I plan on going with...

1. STANS NoTubes 44mm valve stems
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/stans-notubes-universal-44mm-tubeless-road-valve-stems?adl=1&utm_campaign=products&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhNnCBRCqkP6bvOjz_IwBEiQAMn_TMUamF42A XMlNpMDZ6QkWwonHTW-U6eC65wnOFleoe3waAqB-8P8HAQ

2. Pacenti SL23 wheelset

3. STANS tubeless sealant

Any tire recommendations?

[herb5998]

OrangeSeal seems to work a bit better with road tubeless IMO.

There are a lot more tire options nowadays, I found the IRC and new Schwalbe Road tubeless to have some really nice feel and fast ride to them.

If you don't have an air compressor, you may need one to get beads seated properly on some tubeless tires.

[R3awak3n]

hmmm can't rec a tire because right now the only tires I am running tubeless are not tubeless tires :) using compass babyshoe pass and working flawlessly on the Pacenti TL28 (which are tubeless compatible)

I am also using pacenti valve stems and pacenti tubeless tape.


I am really happy with the setup, you don't really loose that much weight because tubeless rims and tires are usually I little heavy (or one or the other, I don't remember) and you have to account for the sealant.
I have not yet had a single puncture, I really love tubeless now, specially on a big tire because you can really run it low pressure. I have not done tubeless on a road tire but would do it any time because I like it that much.


Not sure what you have but do make sure you get some tubeless tape. You will also need a compressor if you want to do it the easy way but there are tricks to get the tire mounted without a compressor.

You can use CO2 for example. I don't like to waste stuff so here is my technique:

- Put tube on the tire, inflate till one of the beads pops in.
- Carefully take 1 bead out making sure the other bead is set and does not come out.
- Grab the tire lever and get the bead thats not in as much in the rim as you can (you obviously won't be able to get it all in but do the most you can) - this part sucks, yes
- Then get pumpin.... If you got a removable core valve, remove it so that you can get more air in. I recommend a removable core valve, not just for this but for the next step.
- Now that you see it works, deflate. Open the valve and put the sealant (I believe 2oz).
- Pump the tire back up.
- You DONE.

[adub]

Use orange seal rather than stans

[weisan]

R3 thanks for the detailed instructions...that's enough to make me change my mind. :D

[dekindy]

Everybody know that you cannot run a non-tubeless road tire tubeless, right???????? You will go a matter of feet and the tire will blow off the rim. Should not run any non-tubeless tire tubeless, period. What are you thinking of, anyway? A tube weighs too much? Running a non-tubeless tire tubeless is a bad solution that does not solve any problem.

hmmm can't rec a tire because right now the only tires I am running tubeless are not tubeless tires :) using compass babyshoe pass and working flawlessly on the Pacenti TL28 (which are tubeless compatible)

I am also using pacenti valve stems and pacenti tubeless tape.


I am really happy with the setup, you don't really loose that much weight because tubeless rims and tires are usually I little heavy (or one or the other, I don't remember) and you have to account for the sealant.
I have not yet had a single puncture, I really love tubeless now, specially on a big tire because you can really run it low pressure. I have not done tubeless on a road tire but would do it any time because I like it that much.


Not sure what you have but do make sure you get some tubeless tape. You will also need a compressor if you want to do it the easy way but there are tricks to get the tire mounted without a compressor.

You can use CO2 for example. I don't like to waste stuff so here is my technique:

- Put tube on the tire, inflate till one of the beads pops in.
- Carefully take 1 bead out making sure the other bead is set and does not come out.
- Grab the tire lever and get the bead thats not in as much in the rim as you can (you obviously won't be able to get it all in but do the most you can) - this part sucks, yes
- Then get pumpin.... If you got a removable core valve, remove it so that you can get more air in. I recommend a removable core valve, not just for this but for the next step.
- Now that you see it works, deflate. Open the valve and put the sealant (I believe 2oz).
- Pump the tire back up.
- You DONE.

[Repack Rider]

Learn how to break the bead at home before you have to repair a flat on the trail. My first trailside tire repair was an adventure!

Now I put the wheel on the ground vertically, with the valve at the top. Starting at the top and working down both sides, I force the tire toward the bottom. You can't feel any movement, and it doesn't seem like you accomplished anything, but you can get the tire lever under the bead opposite the valve.

[sowestport]

I have got like 5 or 6 pairs of wheels sitting in the garage that are tubeless compatible but it never occurred to me until now to consider going tubeless.

Anything I should know before I actually DO IT!?

I am more curious that anything else, not looking for any weight saving or better puncture resistant or ride quality. I like to try things out, that's all.

In terms of choice of components, I plan on going with...

1. STANS NoTubes 44mm valve stems
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/stans-notubes-universal-44mm-tubeless-road-valve-stems?adl=1&utm_campaign=products&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhNnCBRCqkP6bvOjz_IwBEiQAMn_TMUamF42A XMlNpMDZ6QkWwonHTW-U6eC65wnOFleoe3waAqB-8P8HAQ

2. Pacenti SL23 wheelset

3. STANS tubeless sealant

Any tire recommendations?

What kind of riding are you planning? That will determine width/volume/tread.

Here's a link to bicycle rolling resistance. He has results for both road and mtb:

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews

[R3awak3n]

Everybody know that you cannot run a non-tubeless road tire tubeless, right???????? You will go a matter of feet and the tire will blow off the rim. Should not run any non-tubeless tire tubeless, period. What are you thinking of, anyway? A tube weighs too much? Running a non-tubeless tire tubeless is a bad solution that does not solve any problem.

ah


thats why I did not recommend a road tubeless tire. I am NOT running road tubeless tire.

Running a 42mm babyshoe pass. Tons of people have been running them tubeless without any problems. Had them 500 miles, no problems what so ever. I can only comment on what I have which is not road tubeless but then again that is not the point of this discussion since Weisan wants indeed a road tubeless tire.

[DrSpoke]

I'm a big fan of the Schwalbe Pro-One - 23, 25 & 28c. I've been using the 23c on the road and have used the 28c and the S-One @ 30c on my gravel bikes - road, dirt, and mixed road/trail. The S-One was my training tire for the Belgian Waffle Ride and the 28c was the event tire. All have installed on the rim by hand and have seated w/a floor pump.

I've also got a set of 25s that I will try on the road soon and a set of G-One @ 35c for the gravel bike.

I'm also a big fan of Orange Seal and use it on all my bikes. That said, I don't think you will have any problems w/Stans.

I've been running road tubeless since 2010 and the only flat was when I cut a sidewall. I started w/Hutchinsons but they were very difficult to install on my Campagnolo Eurus rims. So, of course, it was difficult to install a tube when I did have that one flat. With the Schwalbe I won't have any worries about installing a tube if I do get another flat out on the road.

[weisan]

thanks for the suggestion, drspoke pal.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/schwalbe-pro-one-road-bike-tyre/rp-prod143770

[DrSpoke]

Oh yeah - that's a very good price.

[kam]

I'm a big fan of the Schwalbe Pro-One - 23, 25 & 28c. I've been using the 23c on the road and have used the 28c and the S-One @ 30c on my gravel bikes - road, dirt, and mixed road/trail. The S-One was my training tire for the Belgian Waffle Ride and the 28c was the event tire. All have installed on the rim by hand and have seated w/a floor pump.

I've also got a set of 25s that I will try on the road soon and a set of G-One @ 35c for the gravel bike.

I'm also a big fan of Orange Seal and use it on all my bikes. That said, I don't think you will have any problems w/Stans.

I've been running road tubeless since 2010 and the only flat was when I cut a sidewall. I started w/Hutchinsons but they were very difficult to install on my Campagnolo Eurus rims. So, of course, it was difficult to install a tube when I did have that one flat. With the Schwalbe I won't have any worries about installing a tube if I do get another flat out on the road.


you doing bwr this year?

schwalbe pro one 28c is what i'm planning to get for my buds "powdered donut" ride and 2017 bwr....glad to read they worked for you for bwr.

i ran a tubed challenge strada bianca 30c for 2016 bwr and had a sliced tire after the first rock section, multiple flats afterward :bike:

[oldpotatoe]

I have got like 5 or 6 pairs of wheels sitting in the garage that are tubeless compatible but it never occurred to me until now to consider going tubeless.

Anything I should know before I actually DO IT!?

I am more curious that anything else, not looking for any weight saving or better puncture resistant or ride quality. I like to try things out, that's all.

In terms of choice of components, I plan on going with...

1. STANS NoTubes 44mm valve stems
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/stans-notubes-universal-44mm-tubeless-road-valve-stems?adl=1&utm_campaign=products&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhNnCBRCqkP6bvOjz_IwBEiQAMn_TMUamF42A XMlNpMDZ6QkWwonHTW-U6eC65wnOFleoe3waAqB-8P8HAQ

2. Pacenti SL23 wheelset

3. STANS tubeless sealant

Any tire recommendations?

Use Orange seal, compressor makes life 'easier', rags to clean up the floor.

[Formulasaab]

I can't make any recommendations (yet) because I am in the same spot as you... Just getting started with road-tubeless.

However, after mixed results with tubeless up to this point (in cyclocross and gravel-grinding situations), I took a different route when looking for advice.

Since everything I've read suggested that there STILL is no standard (this is the bicycle industry after all, I have no idea why I was surprised at this) and that certain tires are designed to work with certain bead technologies... I went direct to the source and asked the rim manufacturer for their recommendation.

I haven't found a moment to build those wheels yet so I can't say how good their recommendation was, but it certainly can't hurt to ask them.

[Tony T]

…You will also need a compressor if you want to do it the easy way but there are tricks to get the tire mounted without a compressor.


Here's one of those tricks: https://youtu.be/EtmatxJG_zg
("WARNING - This Hack involves pumping 100psi of pressure into a homemade device, and is potentially dangerous. Use eye-protection, ear-protection and proceed only at your own risk.")

[Fatty]

Use Orange seal, compressor makes life 'easier', rags to clean up the floor.

Why Orange seal instead of Stans?

Right tire and rim, no compressor needed.

[Fatty]

Here's one of those tricks: https://youtu.be/EtmatxJG_zg
("WARNING - This Hack involves pumping 100psi of pressure into a homemade device, and is potentially dangerous. Use eye-protection, ear-protection and proceed only at your own risk.")

Last new to me tire/rim tubeless combo I mounted they started to creep up the rim at 10 psi. By 18 to 20 psi beads gave a satisfying pop into place.

My opinion if you need special tricks to get a tire to seat on the beads that is the wrong tire/rim combo.

[m_moses]

I highly recommend one of these. Eliminates the need for an air compressor.

http://www.airshotltd.com




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Tony]

I highly recommend one of these. Eliminates the need for an air compressor.

http://www.airshotltd.com




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

$62.00 for that canister and you still need a floor pump. You can get an air compressor cheaper that will do more duties.

[gdw]

You need electricity to run a compressor. The airshot or homemade versions of it are great when you're traveling.

[m_moses]

$62.00 for that canister and you still need a floor pump. You can get an air compressor cheaper that will do more duties.



I have a small air compressor for keeping vehicle tires properly inflated but it couldn't deliver the volume needed to seat tubeless tires.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[adamhell]

i have the airshot. it works well, even on my 29x3.0 chronicles.

[Formulasaab]

I have a small air compressor for keeping vehicle tires properly inflated but it couldn't deliver the volume needed to seat tubeless tires.

True enough. As with most things, you do need the tool to be of a minimum quality and capacity.

[Formulasaab]

You need electricity to run a compressor. The airshot or homemade versions of it are great when you're traveling.

I know it seems obvious but perhaps if you've never set up a wheel for tubeless you might not know... You can always use a tube in a tubeless setup.

[R3awak3n]

there are a bunch of different brands now that sell those kind of pump compressors. I know specialized has one, bontrager has a pump with one.

I am going to get an air compressor just because I want one for my house as well

[DrSpoke]

you doing bwr this year?

schwalbe pro one 28c is what i'm planning to get for my buds "powdered donut" ride and 2017 bwr....glad to read they worked for you for bwr.

i ran a tubed challenge strada bianca 30c for 2016 bwr and had a sliced tire after the first rock section, multiple flats afterward :bike:

Yes, planning to ride again next year. We had a team of 17 this year and are up to 37 for next year's event. Training to commence in January.

This year, most of the group used the Schwalbe 28 but one was on the Hutchinson 28 too (the official BWR tire). And a few in our group were on tubed tires too as they were riding their regular road bike and non-tubeless wheels. Some of the really fast guys at BWR use 25s - I assume for a high placing and/or a 28 wouldn't fit. I prefer to give up a bit of road speed for some durability and traction on the dirt.

[Tony]

I have a small air compressor for keeping vehicle tires properly inflated but it couldn't deliver the volume needed to seat tubeless tires.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For $50.00 this is working great seating tubeless tires.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html

[weisan]

I don't know why it took me so long before I decided to try out tubeless...but today I finally crossed over to the 21st century. :D

I met John, part owner of Orange Seal, in a group ride quite sometime back. I contacted him a few weeks ago to see if he would be willing to show me how to do it. He promptly wrote back and said "Sure, no problem!" As it turns out, their office is just right around the corner, a couple of miles from where I live. We were originally planning to get together sooner but the Schwalbe Pro One tires that I ordered from PBK took almost three weeks to arrive. We finally got together this afternoon and John took me through the whole process, it was eassssssy....no sweat, don't know why it took me so long to get on with the program. :cool: :D

One thing though, as it was mentioned elsewhere in another thread, it does look like having a compressor around to seat the bead is a good idea. In this case, definitely necessary. We tried at first just using a high-volume floor pump but that didn't go so well, so John went inside and took out the compressor. After that, the rest of the installation went smoothly and fairly straightforward.

My next goal would be to go ahead and convert the Compass SwitchBack Hills and the WTB Horizon tires that I have on the gravel bikes to tubeless as well. I probably need to go back to John to buy a couple more bottles of that good stuff...:p

----------------------------And now, a Word from our Sponsor......


Can you see the difference?

​http://alicehui.com/bike/OrangeSeal/P1120110.JPG

Let's get closer, can you see it now?

http://alicehui.com/bike/OrangeSeal/P1120111.JPG

Maybe a bit closer would help.....

http://alicehui.com/bike/OrangeSeal/P1120113.JPG

Still can't see??
You freakin' moron!...How about now? See it?! :beer:

http://alicehui.com/bike/OrangeSeal/P1120114.JPG

Orange Seal keeps your tires sealed up tight and happy....Orange Seal...don't leave home without it.

[R3awak3n]

I only have used stans but I bet orange seal is great too.

nice job man, you going to LOVE tubeless. Goodby flats!

so you just did tubeless tires with normal rims or are those tubeless ready rims?

[weisan]

The rims are anodized SL23 Pacenti version 1.
At first, John thought they were not tubeless compatible and I wasn't 100% sure either so I went on Pacenti website to look. It's not listed there because they don't sell SL23 v1 anymore. Anyway, we took a chance and it seems to hold air well, the beads were seated tight, no problem. Thanks again for your recommendation and help with this topic, R3 pal.

[R3awak3n]

glad its working out so well Weisan! I think most rims are able to be converted to tubeless (either conversion kit or by sealing the rim with tubeless tape). I asked just because I am about to do it with some of my rims :)

Don't forget about the tubeless ride report!

[oldpotatoe]

I don't know why it took me so long before I decided to try out tubeless...but today I finally crossed over to the 21st century. :D

Can you see the difference?

​http://alicehui.com/bike/OrangeSeal/P1120110.JPG



No goop all over the floor, you and the bike?

Jus kiddin', glad ya like 'em.

[grat]

ENJOY

Tubeless off road is crucial and a game changer. Even on road it can be super convenient.

[Clancy]

I've run Kenda Small Block Eights, non-tubeless, as tubeless. Many, many miles, wore em' out. So no, they did not blow off in a couple of feet.

With that said, I ran them at 35 psi and on tubeless rims. There are folding bead tires that will do ok but only on tubeless rims and at low pressure. Tubeless tires on tubeless rims are obviously the best.

Running a non tubeless road tire as a tubeless set-up at higher pressures is asking for the tire blowing off the rim and a face plant.

I was taught to NEVER use CO2 with tubeless as it does nasty things to the sealant.

+ 1 on Orange Seal. Stan's was instrumental in developing sealant. Orange Seal improved it.

A small compressor at some point becomes pretty much mandatory, particularly if you have a couple of wheelsets. I'm a big believer in the rider learning how to do his/her own work. As the old bike mechanic that taught me said, "no one is going to care about your bike as much as you do."

Learning how to set up tubeless is easy, as is learning and working with the limitations. Quality tires, wheels, and good equipment are the keys. As is not taking short cuts.

[weisan]

old pal. that's why we did it outside but overall it was a very clean job, not messy at all, no cleanup to speak of.

grat pal, my goal is really to convert the gravel tires all to tubeless.

clancy pal, my friend John was basically talking me through the whole process, he wants me to learn by doing, and that I did. :D

I am so thankful that John@OrangeSeal took the time to teach me how to do that.

[simplemind]

A couple of points: You will probably get the same air loss over time with tubeless as tubed. I'm running 28c Schwalbe One tubed front and 28c Schwalbe One tubeless rear. After a week, I'm down from 80 psi to 60 psi in both f&r.
Also, I'm using Orange Seal Endurance which is a longer lasting formula. I was concerned about running tubeless on my non-tubeless rims, so that's why I was trying both. After almost a year, I'm convinced this is the way to go.

[R3awak3n]

A couple of points: You will probably get the same air loss over time with tubeless as tubed. I'm running 28c Schwalbe One tubed front and 28c Schwalbe One tubeless rear. After a week, I'm down from 80 psi to 60 psi in both f&r.
Also, I'm using Orange Seal Endurance which is a longer lasting formula. I was concerned about running tubeless on my non-tubeless rims, so that's why I was trying both. After almost a year, I'm convinced this is the way to go.

good to know. I am going to run a tubeless tire on my non tubeless rims. Did you use a kit? (stans or orange seal kit), or did you just use tape and valve and call it a day?

[simplemind]

good to know. I am going to run a tubeless tire on my non tubeless rims. Did you use a kit? (stans or orange seal kit), or did you just use tape and valve and call it a day?

I actually used the Orange Seal Kit. The valves and tape are high quality and easy to implement.

BTW, I'm more of a mtn. biker and have run tubeless with Stans and Gorilla tape for years on various carbon wheels. I think when Stans is new (<3 months) it seals fine, however after that, its hit or miss. I've heard that Orange doesn't seal as fast or in a larger puncture as Stans, but I have no experience to say that's true. The Orange doesn't seem to form the "boogers" like Stans and stays liquid much longer. I run below 20 psi without problems and gain a lot more traction. That's why I like the 28c road tires at 80 psi...a lot more comfort and traction with little if any penalty.

[dougdye]

If you mount the tire on your tubeless wheels with a tube to inflate them and leave it overnight, you will enjoy converting to tubeless tires a lot more. Especially if you are mounting new tires. You can then remove the bead on one side, remove the tube, install the tubeless stem and pour in sealant, soap the removed bead, and pump up the tire usually without a compressor. You can run significantly lower air pressures than you would with a tube type tire, and still have lower rolling resistance. I run Schwalbe Ones and haven't experienced a flat in three years. Only a slow leak that Orange Seal solved before the tire was completely flat. One CO2 cartridge put me back on the road quickly.
Happy trails, Doug

[weisan]

First ride on tubeless the morning didn't go as planned.

Right before the ride, let out some air on both tires. They were both pumped up to 120 PSI on Friday. Got them down to what I like and used to, around 80-85 PSI. Rode about 2 miles and the rear felt soft, stopped to investigate. The rear tire has deflated to less than 30-40 PSI. Tried pumping it back up using my Lezyne road pump but it didn't work. Finally had to break out my tube and go back from tubeless to tubed again. :o
Had to pour out the sealant. My buddy was laughing all the way and took some pictures.
The front tire was fine for the whole ride.

[cachagua]

Tubeless off road is crucial and a game changer. Even on road it can be super convenient.


Yes, one look at that photo shows me how convenient.

Wei-san pal, I'm sorry it had to happen this way, but thank you for settling my uncertainty.

[R3awak3n]

Yes, one look at that photo shows me how convenient.

Wei-san pal, I'm sorry it had to happen this way, but thank you for settling my uncertainty.

:crap: oh give me a brake, **** happens. I never had problem with my tubeless setup and I know tons of people that don't have either.

Last week my rear tire started going soft after a day, that means more sealant (it had been 5 months or so), added more stans and no as good as new. Its probably been 1000 miles, zero flats, great comfort off road and on road.



@weisan - I am sure just a leak, happens, I would redo what you did and I am sure it will be fine (just like the front tire)

[weisan]

I will try again, no problem.

[oldpotatoe]

I will try again, no problem.

Let us know what you found, I'm curious. I've installed more than a few tubeless tires, both road and MTB, in the shop..sometimes they work fine, sometimes they leak(?)..nothing consistent but one thing for sure, getting a slice when riding, the resulting goop-shower is kinda fun to watch, not have.

Booting and adding a tube, can be quite messy. :eek:

[weisan]

I will keep you pals posted.

This is in keeping with my own policy: don't comment on stuff you have no personal experience on, merely based on hearsay and anecdotes...

I have to try it myself first.

[velotel]

I don't know why it took me so long before I decided to try out tubeless...but today I finally crossed over to the 21st century. :D

Looks like you made the cross some time ago. That bike is definitely one advanced frame. I bet there aren't many Cyfacs in the states. Nice bikes, nice people too.

[weisan]

Velo pal, my dream is to bring the Cyfac back to his home country one day and ride with you...

[ColonelJLloyd]

$62.00 for that canister and you still need a floor pump. You can get an air compressor cheaper that will do more duties.

I have a pancake compressor for finishing nailers and found using it for inflating a tire to be silly at best by the time you get it out, plug it in, fill it up, drain for storage, etc. Running that loud pump in my basement after the kids have gone to bed is a non-starter as well. I replaced my normal floor pump with this Lezyne Overdrive (http://www.lezyne.com/product-dpumps-hv-digipressovrdrive.php#.WJiM4m8rJhF). So far so good.

Some tire and rim combos just fall in and seal with zero effort. Others don't so it's nice to have the burst of pressure.

[simplemind]

FYI, one thing I forgot to add which is important: The molds that make the tires are in sections. Depending on how tight these sections come together, there will be flash, which is very thin extruded rubber during the molding process. Because road tires and their beads are much smaller than mtn bike tires, this flashing can keep the bead from making intimate contact with the rim. This can result in leakage and can make it difficult to seal up.
That said, just go around the bead and look (feel) for anything that could prevent full contact. I usually can just grab the flash with my finger or needle nose pliers and pull it off.

[weisan]

Yup...my friend John started off with the Leyzne and when it didn't work, that's when he took out the compressor...

And yes...we plucked those little rubber extrusions before we installed the tires...

see? I got help from the expert. I am gonna give it another try later. I would not write this off just based off one "bad" experience.

[YesNdeed]

I was all set to share a tubeless taping revelation I found out about recently, then couldn't seat up the tire and all but gave up on tubeless myself. Then I found a crack in the rim, making the seating process impossible. So, back to what my mechanic taught me about taping.
Gorilla tape is commonly used in place of, or in addition to tubeless tape such as Stan's, which is what I use. My trusted mechanics likes to use a layer of Gorilla tape (the black, duct style tape), then a second layer of Stan's. What this does is (1) saves a bit of money because tubeless tape is far more costly than Gorilla, and (2) reduces the space on the wall of rim, making it easier to seat, and gives the bead tighter contact to rim, giving it a more secure lock. Since using this method, I have had no use for a compressor and use a basic floor pump and adequate sealant.
You will want to peel the Gorilla tape to a wall-to-wall width, but not so wide that it will interfere with the edge of the rim. Furthermore, whenever I have trouble keeping a tubeless tire seated, there is always, it seems, a flaw in the taping.

[R3awak3n]

after getting a flat in my rear tire (first flat in like 1500 miles and commuting daily in NYC for the past 5 months or so) I took the tire of, patched it and was ready to tubeless again. Just could not get the tire to inflate with my old technique (tube first then remove tube and try to get the second bead in as much as you can and then pump). Just was not working because the tire was now more stretched. So I bought me one of these

https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb13986512/p5pb13986512.jpg

I know spesh sucks but the price was right ($55 shipped). Have not used it yet because as I was about to use it I noticed my rim was cracked on multiple eyelets so I am going to fix that and then see how this thing works. Should work nicely and make tubeless a breeze.

I will eventually get a compressor for the house but this is much more city friendly, inside the house friendly

[weisan]

Looks like a nice pump, R3 pal. I hope you and Kirk can figure it out.

I haven't rode my tubeless wheels since the last incident...partly because I wasn't confident that I can do "roadside repair" using my mini pump.

[ColonelJLloyd]

What is that, Paulo? An adjunct canister that you fill to high pressure with a traditional floor pump?

[weisan]

What is that, Paulo? An adjunct canister that you fill to high pressure with a traditional floor pump?

Specialized Air Tool Blast Tubeless Tyre Setter
https://kylesbikes.com/specialized-air-tool-blast-tubeless-tire-setter-floor-pump-black-888818142620.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAi-_FBRCZyPm_14CjoyASJAClUigOMYivkJXkY1iE_9oOxwKrhZUc tycG9o_KDOOlZYutuhoCjZrw_wcB

[R3awak3n]

Thats exactly it. Pretty cool idea. Since I already have 2 pumps I didnt want to get one of the pump/blaster combos. Saw some positive reviews.