Rohloff Travel Bike Considerations

[ispy]

I see a lot of S&S coupler'ed bikes and some Rohloff (mostly MTB) bikes but less commonly a combo of these two features. Would appreciate feedback re:

1. I hear the Rohloff hub leaks oil just a little bit, and by design; plus it has an air hole for breathing. Is this a disaster waiting to happen in an S&S case, especially if the bike/case is stored on its side (wheel parallel to ground)? In an unpressurized airplane cargo hold?

2. For packing into a travel case, centerlock discs would be easier to remove than 6-bolt. But Rohloff disc rotors use a special 4-bolt attachment. Are these any better/worse than 6-bolt discs in terms of taking/putting on and off?

3. EBB vs adjustable rear dropouts (Paragon sliders)? EBB's might creak and change saddle height. Paragon sliders might compromise fender mounting (disc caliper above axle not in front of); also seems like a lot of weight dangling off the rear triangle especially with all the additional braking force of disc rotor?

Thanks!

[ColonelJLloyd]

You're married and committed to a Rohloff?

[eddief]

For unloaded credit card touring I think all that internal geared stuff is probably overkill. Yes, bulletproof in a bunch of ways, but way more complex to deal with when it comes to service if need be. And then the packing OMG.

[ColonelJLloyd]

A Rohloff + the required dropouts weigh a million pounds (read it on the internet). If that weren't enough to make me choose other options, the price and godawful shifter would be.

To your point #3, though, Paragon Rocker dropouts would be better for your fender issue than Sliders.

Are there adapters for the 4 bolt attachment so you can use 6 bolt rotors or are you stuck with limited rotor availability?

[ispy]

Not set on a Rohloff but it's long interested me even if the weight and cost have deterred. FWIW one of my bikes has an internally shifting double crank and I've enjoyed its advantages (esp shifting while stopped).

Agreed the hub can be overall for some kinds of riding. But I can't imagine it'd be more finicky to pack or unpack; no derailleurs front or rear.

[jasonlee]

Old thread resurrection here, but...
1. I hear the Rohloff hub leaks oil just a little bit, and by design; plus it has an air hole for breathing. Is this a disaster waiting to happen in an S&S case, especially if the bike/case is stored on its side (wheel parallel to ground)? In an unpressurized airplane cargo hold?The Rohloff received a new seal design 3-4 years ago. Before then, it was a paper gasket that sometimes developed a SMALL leak, which happened on my older Rohloff that is now gone with an older bike. My roommate has taken Rohloffs around the world, most recently to Peru in August where he was up at 14,000 feet and dropping back down into towns at only a few thousand feet elevation. He also flew there and back with his bike on the plane. As far as I know, there are no leaking issues.

2. For packing into a travel case, centerlock discs would be easier to remove than 6-bolt. But Rohloff disc rotors use a special 4-bolt attachment. Are these any better/worse than 6-bolt discs in terms of taking/putting on and off?Yes, centerlock would be slightly easier to remove, but that's one more larger tool to carry/pack unlike the T25 that is probably already on your multitool. Since the Rohloff isn't available in Centerlock, I would just go 6-bolt. As far as the "special 4-bolt attachment", it's just a special 4-bolt rotor that uses standard chainring bolts (I think 5mm hex key).

3. EBB vs adjustable rear dropouts (Paragon sliders)? EBB's might creak and change saddle height. Paragon sliders might compromise fender mounting (disc caliper above axle not in front of); also seems like a lot of weight dangling off the rear triangle especially with all the additional braking force of disc rotor?I have seen bikes built improperly have these dropouts fail from those braking stresses. Also, the EBB/saddle height concern was one of mine as well until I realized that once you set the EBB, you'll probably never move it again. As long as the bike is designed well, you can drop the wheel out without having to release tension or re-tension it when you put it back in.