How "true" does Mavic ship their wheels?? (or any other brand had issues?)

[loimpact]

Just curious if anybody has ever checked.

And/or if anybody had another brand (Fulcrum, Rol, Reynolds, ZIPP, etc.) that came out of true.....or out of dish?

I got to thinking about shops who get a batch of bikes in & have to assemble them. Then with all my chainstay clearance issues, I wonder if I flipped over every bike in a large shop & started spinning rears, how true/properly dished they'd all be.

(shrug)

[simonov]

My Mavics have all been very good out of the box. My Fulcrum Racing Zeros were ok. Rideable, but not perfect. Shimanos have been spot on. Reynolds not even close and needed to be trued before I took them home (they stayed perfect after that, though). So...it varies.

[loimpact]

Interesting! I'll definitely be taking a look when they get here! I feel like the "wheel whisperer" lately. ;)

[sales guy]

the cheaper Mavic wheels I have seen are usually more out of whack than the higher end ones. Now, I have had Enve, Campy and Zipp wheels come in the box to me out of true. I had a set of Campy Shamals come really out true and out of round.

When I was production manager for a component company who sold and built wheels, our standard for alloy wheels were .25 side to side and .25 up and down. On carbons it was .50 up and down and .50 side to side.

how I came up with these was someone sent in an older wheel. I was upgrading the hub. I used his original spokes, rim, new hub and new nipples. I was able to get .10 side to side and .10 up and down. On a used rim. I called around and asked what everyone else was-Ritchey, Zipp, Reynolds, Mavic. Everyone told me .50 up and down and side to side on production wheels.

So I figured if I could do .10 on used stuff, I should be able to consistently do .25 and .50. And we did. Charles from Pez used like 3 or 4 of my wheelsets back in the day and loved them and had no issues with those standards or my builds.

[oldpotatoe]

Just curious if anybody has ever checked.

And/or if anybody had another brand (Fulcrum, Rol, Reynolds, ZIPP, etc.) that came out of true.....or out of dish?

I got to thinking about shops who get a batch of bikes in & have to assemble them. Then with all my chainstay clearance issues, I wonder if I flipped over every bike in a large shop & started spinning rears, how true/properly dished they'd all be.

(shrug)

Altho didn't sell a yuge number, enough to see which were best. Mavic were so-so, not as good as one of my wheelbuulders or me would have made them when new. Campag/Fulcrum the same. Zipp seemed awful and a few early Reynolds, not so great. What was most distressing were the ones that couldn't be trued, and if they were out, oh well..Trispokes, Nimble, some others.

[Black Dog]

The problem with wanting wheels that are near perfect in terms of runout (side to side and up and down) is that even spoke tension may be the thing that is sacrificed to get there. 0.5mm is way better than 0.1mm if spoke tension is even on the 0.5 and all over the map on the 0.1. Spoke tension is more important than a fraction of a mm. Getting both perfect is a combination of a great rim and a great builder.

[rwsaunders]

Two friends, two sets of TB-14's laced to 105 hubs...both from Velomine. The spokes were so loose out of the box that you could play Flatt and Scruggs tunes with them.

[oldpotatoe]

Two friends, two sets of TB-14's laced to 105 hubs...both from Velomine. The spokes were so loose out of the box that you could play Flatt and Scruggs tunes with them.

Funny...a lot of their wheels comes from QBP wheelbuilding program. The ones I have seen(altho about 2-3 years ago) were pretty good but any shop worth their salt will take a new wheelsetouttabox and check true/round/dish and tension before selling them. Even $50 wheels from J&B, when tensioned/trued/rounded...can be fine wheels. If you are a consumer, with wheels like this, I'd take 'em to a shop with a good wheelbuilder and pay the $ to have them checked.

[rwsaunders]

If you are a consumer, with wheels like this, I'd take 'em to a shop with a good wheelbuilder and pay the $ to have them checked?

When one of the fellows mentioned showed up on a ride with his new wheels, I noticed that his rear wheel was rubbing when he was out of the saddle. We stopped on the side of the road for a minor adjustment and I advised him to head to a shop when he got home to have the wheels trued. He's not good with manintence in general and I didn't want to be the one who had to fetch the sag wagon at the end of the ride...again. Cheap, reliable and true...pick two I guess.

[Hindmost]

When you guys are talking about the tolerances for trueness are you expressing the numbers in:

plus / minus X?

or:

range of X?

[loimpact]

Most often, within a range of X. (my $.02)

When you guys are talking about the tolerances for trueness are you expressing the numbers in:

plus / minus X?

or:

range of X?

[Formulasaab]

... but any shop worth their salt will take a new wheelsetouttabox and check true/round/dish and tension before selling them.

Exactly. When I worked at the shop, the wheel always went into the stand before it went into the dropouts. It was just part of the process.

Yet another reason that LBS > Internet.