PDA

View Full Version : Anybody try DA 9100 yet?


ravdg316
11-26-2016, 10:44 PM
Would love to hear some thoughts thus far.

Dead Man
11-26-2016, 10:47 PM
Not till dudes start selling their takeoff or lightly used groups


But .. Tag

Particularly interested in the integral PM and hydro variety, but I don't believe either have been released yet?

oldpotatoe
11-27-2016, 05:52 AM
Would love to hear some thoughts thus far.

Just talked to Jim, owner of Vecchio's and he's installed it. Same light action, altho weird looking, front der, easy to set up(easier than 9000). Very 9000-esque, but looks different. Kinda wonder what shimano is thinking with this group.

saab2000
11-27-2016, 06:43 AM
Haven't tried it, but here's a pretty in-depth review.

https://cyclingtips.com/2016/11/shimano-dura-ace-9100-groupset-review-veering-ever-closer-to-perfection/

berserk87
11-27-2016, 08:53 AM
Just talked to Jim, owner of Vecchio's and he's installed it. Same light action, altho weird looking, front der, easy to set up(easier than 9000). Very 9000-esque, but looks different. Kinda wonder what shimano is thinking with this group.

The only thing that I don't like about 9000 is that the front dr setup has been quite vexing. I re-cabled my road rig a couple of months back and I am still messing with it. I can't make it happy.

I've used online resources via the forum and otherwise and I still get chain rub on either the little ring/big cogs, or the big ring/little cogs. It's like I can get one or the other, but I can't seem to resolve both issues. Grr.

The rear shifting action is the bomb.

bobdenver1961
11-27-2016, 09:07 AM
The only thing that I don't like about 9000 is that the front dr setup has been quite vexing. I re-cabled my road rig a couple of months back and I am still messing with it. I can't make it happy.

I've used online resources via the forum and otherwise and I still get chain rub on either the little ring/big cogs, or the big ring/little cogs. It's like I can get one or the other, but I can't seem to resolve both issues. Grr.

The rear shifting action is the bomb.

You could just replace your 9000 with a 9100 front derailleur. I was reading that the 9100 is compatible with all the 9000 parts.

saab2000
11-27-2016, 09:11 AM
I've got my 9000 and 5800 front derailleurs sort of figured out. They require much more tension in the cable than is normal. And it's not really possible to avoid a trim click position, though the 9000s are better in this regard.

I set the limit screws up normally, attached the cable and then played with the tension until it worked as advertised.

That said, it's not a great design for several reasons, including setup and tire clearance.

I'm curious how the 9100s will be.

ravdg316
11-27-2016, 09:13 AM
Which is why I'm interested in 9100's front derailleur, which I hear plays nice with 9000. Good to know it's easier to set up. I thought I had 9000s front figured out a few times, but it never feels like it shifts clean for more than a hundred miles before it needs adjustment.

rwerkudara
11-27-2016, 09:35 AM
You could just replace your 9000 with a 9100 front derailleur. I was reading that the 9100 is compatible with all the 9000 parts.

There's a compatibility chart out there. The only part that's not "compatible" is the 9100 crank. From what I remember shimano recommends the 9100 FD for 9100 cranks. However 9100 FD plays well with 9000 crank, go figure.

Dead Man
11-27-2016, 09:38 AM
There's a compatibility chart out there. The only part that's not "compatible" is the 9100 crank. From what I remember shimano recommends the 9100 FD for 9100 cranks. However 9100 FD plays well with 9000 crank, go figure.

Dafuq? Is ring spacing different with 9100?

rwerkudara
11-27-2016, 09:55 AM
Ha, not sure. Found the link:
http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/3.0?cid=C-453&acid=C-455

Dafuq? Is ring spacing different with 9100?

berserk87
11-27-2016, 10:33 AM
I've got my 9000 and 5800 front derailleurs sort of figured out. They require much more tension in the cable than is normal. And it's not really possible to avoid a trim click position, though the 9000s are better in this regard.

I set the limit screws up normally, attached the cable and then played with the tension until it worked as advertised.

That said, it's not a great design for several reasons, including setup and tire clearance.

I'm curious how the 9100s will be.

I have the cable tension jacked and it's still finicky.

I may try the 9100 FD. I've do all of my own builds and have for years. I've never had issues that this.

thirdgenbird
11-27-2016, 10:34 AM
Dafuq? Is ring spacing different with 9100?

I think they changed the chain line a bit for disc brakes. Maybe the 9000 FD doesn't play well in that range. at the very least, it would put that long arm even closer to the tire.

I'm not a shimano guy, but I think 9000 is pretty sharp looking. Given the similar performance and lower price, I think I would choose it.

cinema
11-27-2016, 10:36 AM
The only thing that I don't like about 9000 is that the front dr setup has been quite vexing. I re-cabled my road rig a couple of months back and I am still messing with it. I can't make it happy.

I've used online resources via the forum and otherwise and I still get chain rub on either the little ring/big cogs, or the big ring/little cogs. It's like I can get one or the other, but I can't seem to resolve both issues. Grr.

The rear shifting action is the bomb.

try adjusting tension on the fly in the 3rd position (assuming you have a downtube barrel adjuster).

try just using your ears on a quiet road if it's rubbing (i call the four shifter positions 1:small ring trim 2:small ring 3: Big Ring Trim 4: Big Ring). This is how I finally got it tuned. when the bike was in the stand it wasn't as easy

etu
11-27-2016, 10:53 AM
Either a DT barrrel adjuster or an in line adjuster is a must to get adequate tension. Found it impossible to work without.

Dead Man
11-27-2016, 10:56 AM
I read about 9000 front der problems and have to wonder if it isn't a routing problem. My 9000 front has been the single easiest, best functioning, and longest functioning front der I've used to date. I don't even have tensioners.... Just yank the cable tight, bolt it down. Flawless function. no adjustment required between cables, except maybe to re-tighten it after the first ride for cable "stretch?" Not sure if I've even had to do that

I'd look at the housing cut ends, check for uneven cuts, maybe look at the shell guide interface.. Check front housing for excessive bends.. Most importantly make sure the cable is getting bolted down in the correct orientation on the der itself, but that one seems like a given


ETA

Either a DT barrrel adjuster or an in line adjuster is a must to get adequate tension. Found it impossible to work without.

None on mine.

berserk87
11-27-2016, 03:48 PM
I wish you guys were here to help debug this one.

I have a downtube barrel adjusters. I have the cables routed properly (I have a Lynskey Helix and it has external routing). The only thing I am starting to wonder is if the housing has punched through the ferrule at the shift lever. I've had this happen once before on another group and it made shifting impossible to adjust.

According to the cable-routing tool thingie, I can route the cable either way with no issues. It sits right on the line. I've run it both ways and still no fix.

This is the only FD that I've ever run into that I just can't seem to get dialed in.

What is the 3rd position? Someone mentioned to adjust in the third position - I am not sure what that means. Which trim position is that?

cinema
11-27-2016, 04:53 PM
According to the cable-routing tool thingie, I can route the cable either way with no issues. It sits right on the line. I've run it both ways and still no fix.


Interesting; when i first set up the derailleur the same thing happened to me. the cable ran right down the middle. I didn't end up setting it up completely but I did untorque and re-adjust the placement of the derailleur according to the dealer manuals exact directions and ended up with the cable running definitively on one side or the other.

PaMtbRider
11-27-2016, 04:56 PM
We've got 2 bikes with 6800 that shift well and are nice and quiet after much fiddling. My wife's bike with 9000 is noisy and I just can't get the front derailleur adjusted as well as the other 2 bikes. This is my biggest complaint with Shimano. All my other Campy equipped bikes are much easier to setup and are quiet.

ravdg316
11-27-2016, 05:04 PM
One thought I've had in the past is that I'm running a 52-36 on my DA 9000, 46-36 on my Ultegra bike and 53-39 on my 105. Like I said, no complaints with 5800 and 6800. Could the 16-tooth gap on my DA be too wide?

PaMtbRider
11-27-2016, 07:03 PM
One thought I've had in the past is that I'm running a 52-36 on my DA 9000, 46-36 on my Ultegra bike and 53-39 on my 105. Like I said, no complaints with 5800 and 6800. Could the 16-tooth gap on my DA be too wide?

All 3 bikes are running a 50-34 crankset. Two of the bikes are my wife's Spectrums. One is steel and one Ti, both with the same geometry. The Ti Spectrum has the 9000 and is the worst shifting.

kramnnim
11-27-2016, 07:48 PM
I would really like to see how the 9100 FD mechanism works.

sales guy
11-27-2016, 08:12 PM
I put it on a bike for Interbike. It was ok. Nothing special. I have figured out the best way to adjust the front derailleur. And I asked Shimano if it was ok to do, they actually said it was fine and kind of sort of approved of it.
I get the front shifter all the way shifted into the big ring. push the front derailleur so the chain is on the big ring. Then use a fourth hand and pull the cable stupidly tight. After that, never need to adjust the cable other than with an adjuster barrel. i found this the easiest and fastest way.

ultraman6970
11-27-2016, 08:57 PM
The rd looks sick with that double pivot like thing going on but I do not get or dig at all why they had to redesign the FD... so many pieces, is just ... u know... that word...

IMHO they got the perfect FD years back maybe 1997 or so when 105sc and 600 started being colored... simple, and worked all the time, campagnolo used pretty much the same design in the FD... no big changes till maybe 2 or 3 years ago but is pretty much the same stuff that worked since 50 years ago.

Looks like shimano in some stuff is doing the same that time doing with their pedals... redesign something that works and is simpler to manufacture doesn't make too much sense to me. Well they need to justify the money and sell the stuff... pff...