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Clydesdale
10-19-2016, 10:54 AM
After hard pedaling I get a brief loud angry growl from what I think must be the rear hub immediately on coasting and especially on backpedaling. Doesn't happen all the time and no noise at all after it happens and while pedaling. I can't imagine how the bb could be involved but pedaling backwards does seem to instigate the noise.

Best guess is that something in the pawls is catching or dragging? I can service the rear hub but thought I would get opinions on specifics to look for/replace before I tear it apart.

Thoughts?

AJosiahK
10-19-2016, 10:58 AM
Ive experienced this too

How old is the wheelset?

Sometimes the o-ring on the freehub body becomes dried and/or ovalized causing friction.

Do open it up and lube what you can, and let us know how it goes!

ajk

mktng
10-19-2016, 11:05 AM
Go buy a new seal. Replace it. Lubing it won't buy you much more time. Better to know it's fixed. Would suck if you wheel locked up mid ride. ..... would thay even happen?..

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Jad
10-19-2016, 11:38 AM
Yes ^ +1, this has happened to both sets of Ksyriums I have; there's nothing too unnerving about going 40mph and having the rear hub squeal angrily. A search for Mavic free hub service or just plain Mavic screech may help. I used mineral oil. Good luck!

.RJ
10-19-2016, 11:53 AM
You dont need any new parts. Put a dab of mineral oil on the plastic bushing the freehub rides on. Good chance to clean up and re-oil the pawls, too.

El Chaba
10-19-2016, 01:20 PM
As others have said, the cassette body bearing needs cleaning and re-lubing with mineral oil. Make sure that the seal between the cassette body and hub body is in good condition. Before you start it is a good idea to grasp one of the cassette cogs between two fingers and see if there is excess play in the body bearing...Anything more than the thickness of a dime and you might be in for a more serious repair than a Jiffy Lube 15 minute special...

cmbicycles
10-19-2016, 01:36 PM
Oiling the internals may help, but bear in mind that the plastic bushing inboard on the cassette body is a wear item... albeit a non-replaceable wear item from Mavic, without buying a new cassette body anyway. There is/was a guy on ebay that sells replacement bushings and bearing upgrades, but I have no experience with them. If you have some decent calipers, do a google search on the wear limit of the bushing for exact numbers while you have it apart.

Birddog
10-19-2016, 08:31 PM
I used this guy's stuff for the same problem. I think it was about $10 for the fix. http://stores.ebay.com/TheHubDoctor

bewheels
10-20-2016, 05:08 AM
To add on...when reassembling you will be using Allen key/wrenches to put the axel back together in/through the hub. This does not require a lot of torque. Too much torque and that axel will break at the threads. Just snug it up. It gets clamped in the frame anyway.

oldpotatoe
10-20-2016, 05:47 AM
After hard pedaling I get a brief loud angry growl from what I think must be the rear hub immediately on coasting and especially on backpedaling. Doesn't happen all the time and no noise at all after it happens and while pedaling. I can't imagine how the bb could be involved but pedaling backwards does seem to instigate the noise.

Best guess is that something in the pawls is catching or dragging? I can service the rear hub but thought I would get opinions on specifics to look for/replace before I tear it apart.

Thoughts?

Very common on Mavic rear wheels. Disassemble, look at plastic bushing at base..may be worn, cracked. If so, replace FH body. if not, clean and oil. I use Mobil One auto oil.

El Chaba
10-20-2016, 07:22 AM
I know that Mavic recommends only mineral oil for the freehub bearing (bushing), but I have had really good, long lasting results by using a sensible amount- not too much- synthetic Teflon grease on the bearing. I think it stays in place much better than the oil. If the wheels are used in extremely cold conditions, I'm not sure that the this method is the most appropriate, and I generally will avoid riding outside below 30 F. . The issue is that the bearing would probably last forever if it remained properly lubricated. It's when it becomes starved for lubricant that all of the wear occurs. There is no question in my mind and experience that a proper grease stays in place much better than the mineral oil. The key is to use the proper grease and a sensible amount.