Favorite wrenching, maintenance or set-up tip

[Spinner]

Serotta Forum members possess a lot of experience in these matters. Please share your favorite helpful tip.

Mine, for chainstay protection, use 3M clear plastic tape, approximately 1.5 inches wide.

Using a clean kitchen cutting board, lightly apply a strip of desired length. Add a second layer, being careful to eliminate any air bubbles by slowly smoothing-on the second layer with your finger.

Cut both ends of laminated tape with a sharp razor blade.

It's far easier to apply if the chain and crank are removed.

Slowly position and smooth the laminated strip to the chainstay, removing any air bubbles.

The result is a barely visible layer of protection for a very small cost.

Beers!

[CalfeeFly]

From a friend...for those of us who reverse...when you stand behind your bike the correct direction for removing pedals is down.

From somewhere for cable tension on the rear derailleur...you turn the adjusting knob in the direction that the shift is hesitating...

From a top wrench...he sets both brake levers to contact at the same position...one you get used to that having them off can drive you nuts... :crap:

Don't laugh at the fat slow looking guy on the old bike that is passing you as you pull out...you might not catch him...worse yet he could pull away from you... :bike:

[dgauthier]

Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

Pipe wrenches and carbon don't mix.

[alancw3]

talcum powder your inner tubes before installing to help prevent pinches.

[Louis]

Chain de-tensioning tool

As an aid when breaking or joining a chain I took about a 4 inch long piece of wire (I used part of a wire coat hanger) and using pliers bent each end into a hook. The net result is sort of like a C but with a longer straight section in the middle.

I then shift into the small ring in front and a small cog in back. Rotate the C so it looks like this: {^^^^} Using the left hand to hold the C hook the left side into the chain from the top, and with the right hand pull the chain from the right to left so some dangles below the C then hook the right side of the chain into the right hook. The net result is a small de-tensioned section of chain hanging below the C and it’s then much easier to maneuver the chain tool over a rivet.

It also helps when joining a chain. I’ve found that it works best on the lower portion of the chain run, but you may prefer the top run.

Louis

[FierteTi52]

To avoid cofusion as to which direction the pedals are threaded. Turn the wrench towards the back of the bike to remove them. Turn the wrench towards the front of the bike to tighten them.
Jeff

[Ginger]

Old worn cotton- poly/cotton event t-shirts make good grease rags in the shop.

Old cotton terry socks turned inside out and worn like a mit make good wash cloths for bike cleaning.

[swoop]

as many goofy things i want to say right now.. the best tip i ever learned was
1) get out of your chamios the first second you get home from a ride.
2) don't ever ask a woman if she is pregnant.

[toaster]

Use a chain connecting link.
1. Easy chain cleaning and lube off the bike.
2. If your chain ever gets damaged or wrapped up you'll be glad you can take it apart with your hands.
3. Adjust your rear derailleur with the chain off, set limit screws exactly by pushing on derailleur and checking alignment, then when cable tension is set just so it'll shift perfectly.


Lose the cap and locknut on inner tubes, looks dumb and doesn't do anything.

[Too Tall]

http://www.wihatools.com/

[Ginger]

Carry a disposable latex glove in your seat bag for those times when you have to do something stupid with your chain on the road. Your shorts can only soak up so much grease. Much better to just not get it on your hands to begin with.

Carry tools on the bike. Let other people use them. :)

[gone]

Use mineral spirits to get your cassette shiny as new. Use a paint brush to apply, brushing in between the cogs. Make sure you put something under it to keep the oil spots off of the driveway or garage. Rinse with a hose and leave in the sun to dry.

[xlbs]

grease on your cables...

and a little dab (of grease, not brylcream) on that cable guide under your B.B.will go a long way to make shifting better

[Kevan]

I'm a novice at this bicycle wiring thing. Frankly, I do better with stereo speakers. Anyway, fixing up my daughter's Olmo has thrown me head on into a subject I know little about. Here's what I've learned:

- Cable must be in the housing for a clean cut that will allow the cable to glide smoothly. I also blew 40 bucks buying a Park Cable/housing shear which I figure will outlive me. Good news: I managed not to cut any cables too short.

- All those pieces of cable snipped off, save'm. Those little pieces can help you in cuts of housing later on for other bikes, for things like the rear derailleur loops. Which by the way needs to be made using brake housing and not the narrower shifter housing. Something I remember reading.

- I pulled out ol' Pink to compare cable length and direction. Another bike (That works!) with the same or similar groupo speaks mountains to you.

- I did the brake cables and housing first; they are easier to do. Builds confidence. You're still runny nosed, but cocky.

- I used the metal brake caps but didn't use the shifting plastic caps. Is that bad?

- The shop was trying to push DuraAce floss and I opted instead for the behind-the-counter cheap black housing stuff to drive the 8 speed Chorus.

I would welcome additional insight.

[toaster]

Dremel Moto-Tool with abrasive disc cut-off wheeel for cutting cable housing. Cuts and grinds smooth any bits to leave a clean cut.

[Louis]

Dremel Moto-Tool with abrasive disc cut-off wheeel for cutting cable housing. Cuts and grinds smooth any bits to leave a clean cut.

Toaster, you beat me to it. Way better than any scissors type cutting device. Does not smash the tubing and can be used for a ton of other things.

I bought mine way cheap at Harbor Freight (read: Made in China). It's a grinding tool with two wheels, and the PTO cable extension for the disc cutter. Goes up to a gazillion rpm and works great. (I do buy the Dremel discs to assuage my conscience.)

Louis

[bigbill]

Keep small children out of earshot when routing cables through Kwing bars. Small wrenches don't do as much damage when you throw them.
I do my best work when drinking beer and listening to Lou Reed or Steve Earle.
Good quality tools.

[OldDog]

Place bike in repair stand.
Crack open a cooold brew and think about your task at hand.
Have another.
Strool into the kitchen for a snack. Taco chips and hot salsa.
Have another beer while you admire your ride.
Call it a night. The bike will ride fine in the morning.
:beer:

[pdonk]

Instead of using the crimp on caps, that never seem to stay, I use super glue or solder to keep my cables from fraying.

The biggest advantage of super glue is that it allows you to pull the cables back through the housing, so the housing can be reused.

Recent thing is that many brake cales come with ends for both road and mtb. by double measuring each end, I was able to get a rear cable for my mtb and a front cable for my road bike out of one cable.

Other hint I learned, was when removing pedals, always put your chain in the big ring, keeps you from getting cut open if you slip.

[tulli]

Keep small children out of earshot when routing cables through Kwing bars.

So true.

[Onno]

Other hint I learned, was when removing pedals, always put your chain in the big ring, keeps you from getting cut open if you slip.

That's smart. Must remember this! The easy way to remember the direction to remove pedals is "back off".

[Samster]

rubber mallet. always keep one around. good for killing cockroaches too.

[Fixed]

have the right tool for the job