Lighting problem

[CNY rider]

Any advice appreciated......I'm stumped.

My long time commuter has a Schmidt dyno hub. Running a front light and a tail light.
The front light is a Lumotec IQ Cyo N Plus.
I installed it last winter and it worked well, as did the taillight.
This past summer I changed the BB on the bike and inadvertently caused a nick in the wiring to the tail light under the rear fender.
So the tail light stopped working.
I brought the bike in to have the wiring re-done.
When I had installed the IQ Cyo last year in place of my old E6, I had just run the wires up the fork leg to the light.
The shop internalized the front wiring, and replaced the wiring to the rear light.

When I got the bike back, the lights front and rear worked for 3 days. Although in retrospect, I think the front light was staying on even when the switch was off.
After 3 days, both lights have stopped working.
I know the dyno is producing power because I get a spark from the ground connector coming out of the headlight.
I don't see any shorts in the new wiring.

Any ideas???:confused:

[fuzzalow]

Get out your trusty Fluke multimeter and check for the integrity of the wiring runs. Intermittent connection at some point in the run that had eventually failed. Once you confirm that it has indeed failed then you can investigate why it failed. Perhaps through a bad solder join or nicked wired from sloppy installation or damage by contact with moving parts, etc.

All this bike wiring on lights is simple two conductor wiring runs.

[oldpotatoe]

Get out your trusty Fluke multimeter and check for the integrity of the wiring runs. Intermittent connection at some point in the run that had eventually failed. Once you confirm that it has indeed failed then you can investigate why it failed. Perhaps through a bad solder join or nicked wired from sloppy installation or damage by contact with moving parts, etc.

All this bike wiring on lights is simple two conductor wiring runs.

Made really complicated by running it inside a frame and fork, IMHO. I've done enough of these to see internal, regardless of lights, shifters, brakes, is a pita for hardly any real advantage...IMHO and all that.

[CNY rider]

Made really complicated by running it inside a frame and fork, IMHO. I've done enough of these to see internal, regardless of lights, shifters, brakes, is a pita for hardly any real advantage...IMHO and all that.

As I'm working through this I definitely hear what you're saying.....:beer:

[Frankwurst]

As I'm working through this I definitely hear what you're saying.....:beer:

I'm with the Old Spud on this one. Pull the wiring and rewire in the old configuration. To me wiring is best on the outside for most laymen of which I'm one. You can easily find the probable cause if it is indeed one of the wires and it's simple to re-do. But what do I know. I'm lazy and hate chasing electrical problems.:beer:

[Peter P.]

I'd first make sure there's output from the generator; sparks don't count because they don't tell you HOW MUCH voltage is being produced. It could be enough to produce the spark but not enough to run either light.

Clip a lead from the multimeter to the output of the hub and the other lead of the multimeter to whatever the hub uses for ground. Switch the voltmeter to A.C. volts and you should see the number rise with the hub speed. I'm assuming the Schmidt hub produces A.C. output like my B+M dyno. The A.C. voltage should rise with wheel speed. You may have to get the wheel up to say, 5mph to see a reasonable number. I expect any voltage limiting to be done inside the lights.

If you see 0VAC, then switch the meter to D.C. volts. If you still see nothing, then the hub is bad or your other voltmeter wire is clipped onto a poor ground point. I suppose some hubs could produce D.C. voltage but I'm under the impression the conversion to D.C. is done in each light.

Anyway, once you've established you've got output, then check the wiring.

Set the multimeter to resistance, and disconnect the wiring at both ends. Clip one lead to one end of the wire and the other lead to something metal on the frame, presumably where there's no paint, like a dropout face. You should see infinite resistance or no reading on the meter. If you see a very low number say, 10 ohms or less, then the wire is shorted.

Then connect one clip lead to the other end of the wire. You should see a resistance of 5 ohms or less, I'd expect. If you still see infinite resistance, your wire is broken somewhere.

If the wires check out, the lights are bad.