Service Campy UT crank

[huck*this]

Hey guys,

Have a Super Record UT crank that I tore down to service. Have some kind of a creak coming from the BB area. I know the torque specs to get everything back together and correct me if I'm wrong but cups 35nm crank 50nm?

My question is any types of pointers I can be given in regards to the bearings? Grease, or degrease then grease? Also as far as re-lubing do I do the inside cups, crank shaft, and bearings? Anything else would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

HT

[AngryScientist]

lots of grease.

clean everything very well, including the inside of the cups. as long as the bearings feel OK in your hand, once everything is cleaned good, a good coating of grease inside the cups, around the bearings, on the hirth joint and the threads of the center bolt.

the cups CAN get worn and need replacement too. what color cups do you have? if you've got anything other than the light green ones, throw them out and get new record ones.

[drewellison]

And then do the following if your creak persists ...
1. grease the seatpost
2. grease the skewers
3. check the chainring bolts
4. put a little lube on the spoke crossings and where they enter the hub
5. check/lube the headset - maybe needs new bearnings?
6. check/lube stem, handlebar clamp, etc.
7. check to make sure your FD cable end is not ticking on your crankarm
8. remove and grease the pedal spindles
9. plastic saddle bases can sometimes creak. check and lube where the frame enters the saddle base
10. check all the rest of the components on the bike.

Then when it's still creaking (assuming it's not your knees), sell the bike.

[huck*this]

lots of grease.

clean everything very well, including the inside of the cups. as long as the bearings feel OK in your hand, once everything is cleaned good, a good coating of grease inside the cups, around the bearings, on the hirth joint and the threads of the center bolt.

the cups CAN get worn and need replacement too. what color cups do you have? if you've got anything other than the light green ones, throw them out and get new record ones.

Damm you guys are amazing! Such knowledge and on the quickness also.

Here is a pic of my cups. They look lighter color then the black frame.

Drive side
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/Acidzerocool/20160908_193405_001.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Acidzerocool/media/20160908_193405_001.jpg.html)

Non Drive
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/Acidzerocool/20160908_193506.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Acidzerocool/media/20160908_193506.jpg.html)

Are these the green cups you speak of?
https://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-Record-Ultra-Torque-cup-70mm-Italian/dp/B0025UEQ26/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473378155&sr=8-6&keywords=Campagnolo+Record+cups

[huck*this]

And then do the following if your creak persists ...
1. grease the seatpost
2. grease the skewers
3. check the chainring bolts
4. put a little lube on the spoke crossings and where they enter the hub
5. check/lube the headset - maybe needs new bearnings?
6. check/lube stem, handlebar clamp, etc.
7. check to make sure your FD cable end is not ticking on your crankarm
8. remove and grease the pedal spindles
9. plastic saddle bases can sometimes creak. check and lube where the frame enters the saddle base
10. check all the rest of the components on the bike.

Then when it's still creaking (assuming it's not your knees), sell the bike.

Thank you for this handy check list. Going to print it out and hang it in the shop. I have done most of those but never thought of #9. That might actually be the culprit as it seems to mostly happen when seated. I'm using carbon grease on most if not all parts. Except crank bearings, cups, etc.That will get slick honey.

[FlashUNC]

Super Record bearings you do not grease. Those CULT bearings are different from all the others in the Campy crank line.

That'll only kill the ceramic bearings with a quickness. Use a light oil if you want to lube them with anything, or get a ceramic specific grease for them.

[huck*this]

So light oil on bearings and grease on everything else? IE cups, shaft, threads on crank bolt?

[FlashUNC]

Yes. Especially on the cups. You may want to use Ti-specific anti-seize on the Hirst bolt if you want because that is a Ti bolt rather than alloy in all the other Campy cranks. But I just use grease and it works fine.

Oh, Super Record crank bolt threads in reverse, in case its driving you insane.

[AngryScientist]

Super Record bearings you do not grease. Those CULT bearings are different from all the others in the Campy crank line.

That'll only kill the ceramic bearings with a quickness. Use a light oil if you want to lube them with anything, or get a ceramic specific grease for them.

not arguing, but what makes you think that? ceramic bearings are just harder than steel, grease will not hurt them. the reason they tell you not to grease ceramic bearings is that they are designed to run with less friction than steel and "need" less lube, but aside from adding some drag, grease wont hurt ceramic bearings.

i've got ceramic boca bearings on a set of chorus cranks and they have lasted exceptionally well, plenty of grease all around them. on sealed bearings, the grease acts as more of a barrier against moisture intrusion than anything else.

in my experience.

[huck*this]

OK this is what I have lube wise.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/Acidzerocool/20160908_201140.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Acidzerocool/media/20160908_201140.jpg.html)

Use WD40 chain lube on bearings only. Should I use degreaser to clean the old lube out?
Slick Honey on cups and crank shaft (bearings?) Confused on what I should do.
Copper Anti Seize on crank bolt

All sound good?

[FlashUNC]

not arguing, but what makes you think that? ceramic bearings are just harder than steel, grease will not hurt them. the reason they tell you not to grease ceramic bearings is that they are designed to run with less friction than steel and "need" less lube, but aside from adding some drag, grease wont hurt ceramic bearings.

i've got ceramic boca bearings on a set of chorus cranks and they have lasted exceptionally well, plenty of grease all around them. on sealed bearings, the grease acts as more of a barrier against moisture intrusion than anything else.

in my experience.

Its more the grease tends to pick up gunk that'll foul the bearings and the races than hurting the bearings themselves as I understand it. The grease itself is fine, its what the grease does down the road that becomes the problem. Its exacerbated by the lack of the extra seal in the SR cups.

Campy themselves recommend a different service type and schedule for the SR bearings.

http://www.campagnolo.com/US/en/Support/does_the_bottom_bracket_require_maintenance_2

[wallymann]

UT cups, definitely grease inside, and use a STIFF/TACKY grease -- it does a more effective job of mitigating bearing creak over time.

[CSBArizona]

Thanks for the informative posts. Just today I noticed some creaking from my bottom bracket area with the black super record cups that are several years old. My other bike has the light green Record cups and does not creak.

But I always thought that the SR and Record cups were the same, minus perhaps a seal or something. These are both several years old, and I thought that neither had ceramic / CULT bearings.

Do all of the SR black cups have ceramic bearings or only more recent ones?

Again, I appreciate the insight--

[Hindmost]

I have been using recent Super Record/EPS cups, black, to resolve creaks and clunks associated with earlier cups.

I believe "green" Record and black Super Record cups are the desired ones.

[bigbill]

Thanks for the informative posts. Just today I noticed some creaking from my bottom bracket area with the black super record cups that are several years old. My other bike has the light green Record cups and does not creak.

But I always thought that the SR and Record cups were the same, minus perhaps a seal or something. These are both several years old, and I thought that neither had ceramic / CULT bearings.

Do all of the SR black cups have ceramic bearings or only more recent ones?

Again, I appreciate the insight--

The cups are empty, they house the bearings that are pressed on the spindle of the crank. A SR crankset has CULT bearings. SR cups don't have an inner seal because the ceramic CULT bearing doesn't need it. A Record crankset has USB bearings. Record cups have an inner seal because USB bearings are hybrid design with steel and ceramics and need the inner seal to hold the grease in the bearing and keep moisture and stuff out. Chorus cranks have steel bearings and use Record cups. Any UT bearing will fit on any UT crankset. When my USB bearing wore out on my Record cranksets, I replaced them with steel (Chorus) bearings.

[CSBArizona]

Thanks for the clarification- I feel like I should have known that, as it is the cranksets that have the CULT logo . . .

So is the above recommendation to throw out the black cups and just use the green ones simply to ensure that you have the seal?

[bigbill]

Thanks for the clarification- I feel like I should have known that, as it is the cranksets that have the CULT logo . . .

So is the above recommendation to throw out the black cups and just use the green ones simply to ensure that you have the seal?

The seal doesn't hurt anything with a SR crankset with CULT bearings, it's just not necessary. If you get a set of Record cups, the seal pops out and BAM it's a SR cup. If you have anything other than CULT bearings, you need the seal.

I've been riding steel bearings for the last 4 years, they're just as durable and about $35 for a set. The Park Tool for replacing the bearings is around $60 plus you need snap ring pliers or a small screwdriver to remove the snapring on the driveside. The non-drive side is just pressed on. I can swap out the bearings in about 20 minutes. I've seen USB for around $80 a set and CULT for around $125.

[oldpotatoe]

Hey guys,

Have a Super Record UT crank that I tore down to service. Have some kind of a creak coming from the BB area. I know the torque specs to get everything back together and correct me if I'm wrong but cups 35nm crank 50nm?

My question is any types of pointers I can be given in regards to the bearings? Grease, or degrease then grease? Also as far as re-lubing do I do the inside cups, crank shaft, and bearings? Anything else would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

HT

Remember the c clip holding on the RH bearing and hopefully you have a proper press if you are taking the bearings off and replacing them.

BUT grease into BB shell, grease into cups and around bearings. Remember the wavy washer(LH side) and yes, USE the clip on RH side. Grease around the bearings and onto the hirth joint and on the bolt threads..make everything TIGHT. A little teflon tape on cup threads if the frame BB shell threads aren't really cut tight.

[oldpotatoe]

So light oil on bearings and grease on everything else? IE cups, shaft, threads on crank bolt?

No, grease on bearings and in bearings. In spite what has been mentioned, using grease(oil in soap) will act as a seal between inside and out for ceramic bearings. Cearmic balls are hard and altho CULT use hardened steel in the races, any grit in there, between ceramic ball and steel race will kill CULT quickly.

[huck*this]

Thanks again for the advise.

With all that said should I use degreaser to clean all the old grease or just a rag?

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks again for the advise.

With all that said should I use degreaser to clean all the old grease or just a rag?

Use degreaser and some will stay in bearing and keep 'lube' from getting in there..use just a rag..if the bearings feel smooth-good..if feel like full of sand, replace.

[huck*this]

Good advise.

[huck*this]

BB and crank greased PROPER (according to above posters) and happy to report the bike is back to dead silence. 50mi today of pure bliss.

Thanks guys for all your help again!

Still searching for a socket type BB cup tool so I can torque down the new cups when I get them this winter.


-Justin

[bigbill]

BB and crank greased PROPER (according to above posters) and happy to report the bike is back to dead silence. 50mi today of pure bliss.

Thanks guys for all your help again!

Still searching for a socket type BB cup tool so I can torque down the new cups when I get them this winter.


-Justin

http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools/products/single-sided-bottom-bracket-socket

[oldpotatoe]

BB and crank greased PROPER (according to above posters) and happy to report the bike is back to dead silence. 50mi today of pure bliss.

Thanks guys for all your help again!

Still searching for a socket type BB cup tool so I can torque down the new cups when I get them this winter.


-Justin

http://www.backcountry.com/park-tool-bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-19?CMP_SKU=PAR0068&MER=0406&skid=PAR0068-ONECOL-ONB&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&mv_pc=r101&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&mr:trackingCode=B856CEF4-CF74-E411-9BFE-BC305BF82376&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&gclid=CLbj0Preic8CFQ6maQodCWQGXw&gclsrc=aw.ds