PDA

View Full Version : Cinelli 1r


TronnyJenkins
07-31-2016, 07:42 PM
Are these known to have issues clamping and holding? I've got one and a 64-40 Giro bar that I measured at 26.4 on the dot that's slipping on me. I feel like I'll strip the bolt if I try to tighten any more.

CampyorBust
07-31-2016, 07:49 PM
If memory serves me right this is an issue with this stem. So much so that the one time I had one I made sure not remove the stem from the handle bar, ended up using the combo.

bikinchris
07-31-2016, 09:55 PM
There were also several batches of bars that had the center sleeve slip on the bar. Also, make sure your wedge isn't cracked. I already sold all the NOS wedges I had.

ultraman6970
07-31-2016, 10:22 PM
Take the pieces off the stem, the wedges in particular and check them out, if the precious owner got the bad idea to play with the wedges too much they must be worn.

You can find kits to rebuilt this stems with brand new wedges.

A way to fix this is to grease the wedges (creaks) and then use some carbon fiber paste in the clamp.

Another detail, once you get the handlebar in position tight it, if the handlebar needs to be re positioned, lose the as much as posible then tight again. What happens is that users tend to lose the bolt a little bit and then move the handlebar, that will scratch the teeth of the wedge and then it will lose its grip. The system works but you have to be work with that thing pretty much as the bible says you know.

I might be able to get you a kit to rebuilt that stem if you need a new wedge, bolts and plastic logo.

cachagua
07-31-2016, 10:59 PM
Two-step process to get a 1-R to hold the bar:

I. Grease the threads of the wedge and the bolt, and the mating faces of the wedge and the clamp. Take everything apart and put the grease on with a brush -- you want just film of grease in just a few places, and you don't want any anywhere else.

II. When the stem is greased and assembled, paint the visible side of the clamp, the inside of the front of the stem (the place the clamp pushes the bar against), and the center section of the bar with linseed oil. Then dust those surfaces with a pinch of #180 or #220 abrasive grit. Again, you want this stuff only in the areas where the stem and the bar contact each other -- use just a little and be judicious where you put it.

Slide the bar in carefully, snug up, adjust rotation, tighten, wipe off excess oil/grit mixture, --give it overnight or over the weekend to be sure, but I've ridden the bike right away after using this method and had no trouble.

It's fiddly and a bit of a mess, so not everybody will want to try it, but it's never failed me, in at least a couple of dozen instances. Taking it apart is only a matter of cracking the contact between the parts, and in a 1-R there's more room to do that than in many other stems.

And then you will be riding the most beautiful stem ever made.

ultraman6970
07-31-2016, 11:02 PM
Interesting method cachagua. Never occur to me use some paint at all.

cachagua
08-01-2016, 01:47 AM
Not exactly paint, although I imagine you could use that instead. You could probably get away with honey... all you want is something for the grit to stick to, that won't remain slippery (as grease or regular oil would do).

I learned about linseed oil at one of my earliest bike-shop jobs, used it for a lot of things. Genius stuff -- first it's slippery, then it turns to glue! But in this application, it's the grit that does the work.

I actually just did this in a couple of Thompson stems. I'd consider it for any of the current faceplate stems... give you a good reliable attachment without overtorquing.

saab2000
08-01-2016, 05:23 AM
The 1A is a far better stem. Just get the right size....

I had a 1R break and I'm really lucky I didn't crash and lost all my teeth.

oldpotatoe
08-01-2016, 05:38 AM
Are these known to have issues clamping and holding? I've got one and a 64-40 Giro bar that I measured at 26.4 on the dot that's slipping on me. I feel like I'll strip the bolt if I try to tighten any more.

1R, gets loose in about 1 'R'.....IMHO, these look good in a display but not on a bike.

unterhausen
08-01-2016, 06:46 AM
I had a 1R break and I'm really lucky I didn't crash and lost all my teeth.I had one break on my way to a ride in the mountains. Sure glad I hadn't done any climbing yet, getting back with loose handlebars wasn't much fun even the few miles across town. The design is poor from a fatigue viewpoint, and the cracks start on the inside, so you can't see them. Of course, by the time it's a real problem, the crack is on the outside, but it's still a concern.

Tandem Rider
08-01-2016, 07:08 AM
I remember being caught up in a couple of sprint pileups caused by one of those breaking. :mad:

I also remember seeing one of the Eastern European dudes breaking one with about 300 meters to go, bars completely detached, no crash. The wide-eyed collective pucker on that one lasted for days. :eek:

witcombusa
08-01-2016, 11:49 AM
The Dura Ace stem, made by Nitto, never had any of the problems that the 1R
had. I still ride bikes with both stems though.

I think the Dura Ace stem is even better looking than the Cinelli personally.
HS-7200, HS-7300, HS-7400