How many miles out of an 11 speed chain

[stephenmarklay]

I am getting so poor shifting and I must have some wear. I don’t think the drivetrain has a ton of miles -perhaps 2500 and not in poor conditions.

[hollowgram5]

I am getting so poor shifting and I must have some wear. I don’t think the drivetrain has a ton of miles -perhaps 2500 and not in poor conditions.
I try to change chains every 1200-1500. Anything more than that and it's cassette and eventually rings..

[stephenmarklay]

Gotcha. I hope the cogs are ok.

[hollowgram5]

I'm a larger rider, it's more of a precaution for me. Chain mfrs suggest 2k

[ripvanrando]

If I keep the chain clean and lubricated, at least 4,000 miles out of a dura-ace chain. The last two were not cleaned at all as I did not have access to means to clean them and I replaced at 2,000 and 2,500 miles although they shifted fine. The only "maintenance" was some Rock N Roll Gold every few days.

[bikerider888]

mileage doesn't matter, wear does. Get a 12" ruler or chain wear indicator. Plenty of good articles about different ways to measure.

I keep my chains well lubed and clean, and easily get 7500 miles out of a Dura-Ace 11spd chain. 1500 miles isn't much.

[shovelhd]

I replace mine when the stretch is at 0.75". Chains last a heck of a lot longer now that I'm not racing.

[stephenmarklay]

I will measure it today. I measured it a month ago and it was perfect. I have put on maybe 1k since. I use a light clean and lube every ride.

[bikerider888]

Unless you ride in lots of sand or rain, I'd be shocked if 1000mi resulted in a measurable difference. Even at 7500 miles there is barely any measurable wear. Last one I replaced had 10k miles and I didn't want to over do it.

Cassettes work fine on a new chain, no issues.

Much to do with using a good lube. Every 100 miles I wipe the chain, apply a little more lube, whole process takes 30 seconds. Never remove from bike, no elaborate ultrasonic cleaners or waxing rituals.

[bigbill]

I change my Chorus chain after 3500 miles. I can 2-3 chains per cassette. When I commuted in Hawaii, my commuter got a new chain every 3 months, around 1800 miles. The volcanic red dirt just wore stuff out and I'd only clean it once a week.

[Spdntrxi]

I got about 5k out of my Kmc sl11.. It was still below .75 .. But I was putting on new cranks so why not


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[MaraudingWalrus]

we recommend about every 1,200-1,400 miles for all weather riders around here (coastal FL, lots o sand). Doing that most people get three or four chains per cassette. Several cassettes per chainrings.

Really depends how much cleaning and lubricating you want to do.

[lhuerta]

I am getting so poor shifting and I must have some wear. I don’t think the drivetrain has a ton of miles -perhaps 2500 and not in poor conditions.

If 2500 is on one chain, then definitely need to change (aim for 1200-1300 miles-ish intervals). However, shifting performance wouldn't be effected significantly with only 2500 miles on the chain. Check your hanger alignment (with proper tool) and cable friction....sounds like another issue is lurking.

[stephenmarklay]

I bought a chain and park tool. I know a ruler works but $10 for ease of use is ok.

Do 11 speed chains wear faster than older chains?

[oldpotatoe]

I bought a chain and park tool. I know a ruler works but $10 for ease of use is ok.

Do 11 speed chains wear faster than older chains?

Side plates are thinner some and pins are shorter but rollers are what wear and those, altho less width, are the same thickness.

[11.4]

Seriously, measure the length with a ruler. That's the most accurate way to test. And do it when the chain has been cleaned, because a lot of gunk in the rollers can keep it from stretching out to its full length.

Longevity is entirely a case of YMMV. Some people don't get a thousand miles from a chain, others get several thousand, even if they both are meticulous about cleaning their drivetrains. More power applied to the chain increases the wear, as do gearing and shifting habits, the hardware you use, and so on. Just measure it and develop your own standard.

[Mikej]

Seriously, measure the length with a ruler. That's the most accurate way to test. And do it when the chain has been cleaned, because a lot of gunk in the rollers can keep it from stretching out to its full length.

Longevity is entirely a case of YMMV. Some people don't get a thousand miles from a chain, others get several thousand, even if they both are meticulous about cleaning their drivetrains. More power applied to the chain increases the wear, as do gearing and shifting habits, the hardware you use, and so on. Just measure it and develop your own standard.

That is going to measure the side plate stretch only, it will not tell you how much pin and roller wear you have. That's really where the actually "wear" is. I have no problem throwing on a new chain - I feel they make more of a difference in ride quality for the dollar than any other component.

[FlashUNC]

15-20 miles.

I usually change them mid-ride.

[bikerider888]

Going to change mine now, just in case

[Seramount]

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

[kramnnim]

Those of you who replace chains after 2k, I would like to buy the chains from you if you're just throwing them away.

[ripvanrando]

Those of you who replace chains after 2k, I would like to buy the chains from you if you're just throwing them away.

I'll send you my 11s dura ace chain that was installed in Newton Kansas and only ridden to Yorktown, VA if you pay shipping. It only has 2,000 miles on it but the last 380 miles were in pouring rain.

[efaust_o]

Poor shifting how? Need more info. If chain is in good shape along w/ cassette, then check the cables.

[stephenmarklay]

It started as poor shifting that I noticed when I'm the small ring and anything smaller than about the 4th or 5th smallest cog or smaller. The shifting is not quick or precise. Trying to adjust the tension did not improve it. I am also finding the top cog is not wanted to hold and it drops down to the next smaller one.

I am am not getting slipping under load but I do feel like it is not meshing as well. I don't think it's the RD as it did shift better before.

[Cicli]

It started as poor shifting that I noticed when I'm the small ring and anything smaller than about the 4th or 5th smallest cog or smaller. The shifting is not quick or precise. Trying to adjust the tension did not improve it. I am also finding the top cog is not wanted to hold and it drops down to the next smaller one.

I am am not getting slipping under load but I do feel like it is not meshing as well. I don't think it's the RD as it did shift better before.

Sounds like a bent hanger to me.

[John H.]

I try to change sooner rather than later.
I think 1500 miles is plenty unless the rider is super light and does not do a lot of torque-y riding.
I go more by sound than length.
My ears can tell a worn chain on my own bike. It sounds noisier when I am up in my easiest gear, and needs more frequent cleaning and lubing to stay quiet.
I always say "chains are cheap"- cassettes and chainrings are not.
Buy a stack of whatever you ride so that you have them around and are not tempted to ride a chain for too long.
I have been using the same chain on everything- Currently SRAM Red22 or XX1- (they are pretty much the same).
I use this chain on 9000 road bike, Ultegra 11 mix cross bike, and SRAM XX1 mtb.

[11.4]

That is going to measure the side plate stretch only, it will not tell you how much pin and roller wear you have. That's really where the actually "wear" is. I have no problem throwing on a new chain - I feel they make more of a difference in ride quality for the dollar than any other component.

I've heard that a lot, but when you take one apart, the inner side plates hang on the roller which hangs on the pin connecting the outer plates. So it measures all the wear. Arguably the only thing it won't measure is if there is excessive jitter in the roller because the insides are worn out, but the roller wears on the inside plate assembly and most of that wear should be accounted for. Considering how chains rarely wear evenly across all links and how precise the measurement is for the typical chain tools, the measurement of the whole chain should be reliable.

[Cicli]

I've heard that a lot, but when you take one apart, the inner side plates hang on the roller which hangs on the pin connecting the outer plates. So it measures all the wear. Arguably the only thing it won't measure is if there is excessive jitter in the roller because the insides are worn out, but the roller wears on the inside plate assembly and most of that wear should be accounted for. Considering how chains rarely wear evenly across all links and how precise the measurement is for the typical chain tools, the measurement of the whole chain should be reliable.

Yep. 12" machinist ruler works very well.
Those go-nogo gages are junk. Shows a new chain at 50% sometimes. They work well if you sell chains.

[stephenmarklay]

Putting a tape measure to it makes me think it is not stretched. Could be the D. hanger.

[mmfs]

I've been changing them every 2000 miles or so - whenever my junky go/no go gauge passes. I typically go for a ~$20 chain, figuring even if I change it twice as often as a ~$40 chain, I'm ahead of the game (or at least even).

[11.4]

Possible that you cut a different length chain? Even a link or so can change how it shifts.

Have you changed a cassette along the way and need a different B-screw setting?

That it's small chainring and smaller cogs doesn't necessarily sound like a hangar problem. You have a lot of miles on your small ring? I'm still thinking you've got a worn small chainring and worn cassette on the cogs you usually ride with the small ring. Your symptoms all are consistent with that. Your 11-tooth problem might be a different matter -- if I remember correctly, if you mount the KMC quick link upside down, it won't settle properly onto the 11-tooth cog because it's resting on the quick link side plates and not in the valley of the cog teeth.

[stephenmarklay]

Possible that you cut a different length chain? Even a link or so can change how it shifts.

Have you changed a cassette along the way and need a different B-screw setting?

That it's small chainring and smaller cogs doesn't necessarily sound like a hangar problem. You have a lot of miles on your small ring? I'm still thinking you've got a worn small chainring and worn cassette on the cogs you usually ride with the small ring. Your symptoms all are consistent with that. Your 11-tooth problem might be a different matter -- if I remember correctly, if you mount the KMC quick link upside down, it won't settle properly onto the 11-tooth cog because it's resting on the quick link side plates and not in the valley of the cog teeth.

Thank you for all of the thoughts…

The bike is new to me so I don’t have a good reference for anything unfortunately. I have put on less than 2k and I don’t think it had much on the drivetrain when I got it. It actually is a Shimano chain but I ordered a KMC. It never occurred to me that the chain length could be off. I will make sure not to use it as a guide (or at least measure it) when I replace it just in case.

I certainly could have worn the smaller cogs. I ride the big and small chainrings more or less equally. I have a 52/36 and the 36 is still small to ride flat much. ut when I am in the 36 I am certainly in the smaller cogs.

If a chain does not fix it up I may just get a cassette. I don’t really think that the chainrings have wear. The entire setup is low miles actually.

[stephenmarklay]

I really tried to qualify what the shifting problem really is. It seem the worst shifting performance is when I am more crossed up (poor chain line) and that makes sense. However it is really only noticeable if I am in the big ring and largest cogs and small ring in the smallest.

The only real issue is shifting down in at the extremes. Shifting up is better even at the extremes.

[ripvanrando]

I did not read all the posts....sounds like your derailleur hanger is bent

[stephenmarklay]

Ok here are my naive home hack questions:

So I have a new KMC chain in hand and while thinking back I have run them on bikes I am not sure I have installed them. Do I really need special pliers for the missing link?

Also it was mentioned that I can use any chain tool and I gather that us because I am tossing out the link that I push the rivet out correct?

I did get a go-nogo tool and found the chain to be in spec in some spots and greater than .75 out in other spots. I am going to replace it.

And last so there is something for everyone, to measure the chain (assuming the one I have is wrong) is? I asked this once and I remember it was unanimous but I can’t remember the answer :)

[Cicli]

And last so there is something for everyone, to measure the chain (assuming the one I have is wrong) is? I asked this once and I remember it was unanimous but I can’t remember the answer :)

Measure it with a machinists 12" ruler. Pin to pin across 12". That will tell you how long it has gotten.
Oh, you dont need the pliers but it makes life alot easier.

[stephenmarklay]

Measure it with a machinists 12" ruler. Pin to pin across 12". That will tell you how long it has gotten.
Oh, you dont need the pliers but it makes life alot easier.


Thanks sir! I was actually meaning to say for proper overall chain length (through derailleurs etc.)

[Cicli]

Thanks sir! I was actually meaning to say for proper overall chain length (through derailleurs etc.)

Small-small through the rear derailuer. Just enough tension that it dosent droop in that gear or the chain dosent hit the upper jockey pully on the way forward.

[djg21]

That is going to measure the side plate stretch only, it will not tell you how much pin and roller wear you have. That's really where the actually "wear" is. I have no problem throwing on a new chain - I feel they make more of a difference in ride quality for the dollar than any other component.

Side plates don't "stretch." What actually happens is that metal grinds away where the link pins rotate in the bushings/inside plates, and this causes the chain to appear to be elongated when under tension. In other words, chain "stretch" is a measure of roller/pin/bushing wear.

My rule of thumb is to buy relatively inexpensive chains and replace them frequently. I use Ultegra chains with my Dura Ace-equipped bikes, and replace the chain at roughly 1,500 miles. If you change chains before they significantly wear, you'll be less likely to wear cassettes prematurely, and you'll avoid problems if you have multiple wheelsets that you use on the same bike.

[stephenmarklay]

Small-small through the rear derailuer. Just enough tension that it dosent droop in that gear or the chain dosent hit the upper jockey pully on the way forward.

Thanks :)

[stephenmarklay]

I got it on. Thanks you guys.

I will ride in the morning and see if it changes anything. Regardless the chain had at least 2k on it so I am fine with it.

I has been brought up that the RD hanger may be bent. Could be but inspecting the RD I am thinking the RD itself my be a little tweeked.

[oldpotatoe]

Ok here are my naive home hack questions:

1)So I have a new KMC chain in hand and while thinking back I have run them on bikes I am not sure I have installed them. Do I really need special pliers for the missing link?

2)Also it was mentioned that I can use any chain tool and I gather that us because I am tossing out the link that I push the rivet out correct?

3)I did get a go-nogo tool and found the chain to be in spec in some spots and greater than .75 out in other spots. I am going to replace it.

4)And last so there is something for everyone, to measure the chain (assuming the one I have is wrong) is? I asked this once and I remember it was unanimous but I can’t remember the answer :)

1)-no..makes it easier to disassemble but not needed to assemble quick link. Put partually assembled quick link on 'top' of chain, from cogset to crank, and smack the pedal..it's 'seat' the link.

2)-yes, shorten with any chain tool..end up with 2 inside link portions as the quick link is outside plates.

3)-good call

4)-pin to pin, measure 12 links, one foot..if more than a 16th inch more-replace.

[stephenmarklay]

Final Verdict:

It was the chain. At least most of my poor shifting is gone. I still get a little lag in the small ring in about the 4-5 cog up but it is pretty minor gripe. I would not be surprised to learn that those cogs are a bit worn.


Sill the lower pulley on the RD does not seem to be directly under the upper pulley and I would not be surprised if that is a bit tweeted.

All in all it is now shifting basically “normal.” I think I need to go to Di2 to get a lot better.

[Russian bear]

I easily get 5000 miles out of a chain here. We have dry conditions and it rarely rains though. I keep my drivetrain pretty clean as well.

When I rode through the winter in MO, 1500-2000 was normal.

[yummygooey]

I got about 2k miles out of an Ultegra chain. The chain wear indicator read .75 when I changed it. It survived a fairly dry spring as far as PNW springs go, though there was a fair bit of dirt (both dry and moist). I'm a smaller guy but most of those miles involved lots of climbing.

The big difference was that I noticed the shifting on the old chain was getting kind of sluggish, and the new chain resulted in noticeably crisper shifting.