Help! Pedal broke when trying to remove!

[Hilltopperny]

I ordered some time atac pedals for my concours as it is my gravel/all surface bike. I remove the right pedal without issue. When I went to remove the left pedal I heard a loud ping. At first I thought it was the pedal freeing up, but it was the pedal cracking and the bolt attaching into the crank arm stripped a bit. They are record ti pedals and I don't know what to do for removal. Any insight or thoughts are welcome.:beer:

[CMiller]

That sounds like no fun - Could you post a quick photo?

[CMiller]

What material are the cranks (aluminum, carbon)?

[AngryScientist]

i'm having a hard time visualizing what happened. what cracked exactly?

what is the crank arm material? alloy or carbon with an insert? is the pedal you are trying to remove use a hex wrench from the back or a 15mm pedal wrench from the front side?

a picture would really help here.

[oldpotatoe]

I ordered some time atac pedals for my concours as it is my gravel/all surface bike. I remove the right pedal without issue. When I went to remove the left pedal I heard a loud ping. At first I thought it was the pedal freeing up, but it was the pedal cracking and the bolt attaching into the crank arm stripped a bit. They are record ti pedals and I don't know what to do for removal. Any insight or thoughts are welcome.:beer:

Righty loosey for the LH pedal(left threaded)? Carbon crank? Insert come loose?
Pedal axle still in crank?

[Hilltopperny]

Alloy chorus 9spd cranks to a period correct record titanium pedal. The casing around the pedal cracked and the pedal itself now moves 3/4" along the spindle. Pretty sure I turned the pedal in the correct direction.

[Hilltopperny]

Pedal spindle is still intact, but the bolt where the wrench goes has rounded.

[Hilltopperny]

I will snap a pic in a bit. About to head out for evening ride on the Kirk instead...

[grawk]

have you tried vice grips and/or channel locks?

[Hilltopperny]

have you tried vice grips and/or channel locks?
I have not pulled out the vise grips yet, that is the next step I guess:crap:

[Hilltopperny]

Can't upload the photo for some reason. This thing is as stuck as anything I've ever dealt with:crap:

[Peter P.]

Is there an allen key fitting on the end of the axle? Some pedals have them.

[Hilltopperny]

Is there an allen key fitting on the end of the axle? Some pedals have them.

Unfortunately no, I may have to heat it up. Going to disassemble the pedal since its broken and see if there is any other option...

[Hilltopperny]

Pic of crack

[saab2000]

Standard pedal wrench. That axle has flat surfaces for a normal wrench.

[Hilltopperny]

Standard pedal wrench. That axle has flat surfaces for a normal wrench.
Used my park tool standard pedal wrench and it caused the break and stripped the bolt. It is sliding off of it now. Tried my backup nashbar pedal wrench and it did the same thing.

[dustyrider]

Look at the spindle the pedal spins on, close to the crank, and you'll see two flat sides. Pedal wrench goes there! Despite its name.

[Hilltopperny]

Look at the spindle the pedal spins on, close to the crank, and you'll see two flat sides. Pedal wrench goes there! Despite its name.

Yes that's where I put the wrench. The spindle was not exposed until the pedal broke when I applied pressure on the wrench. It stripped the flat sides on the ends and rounded them. The pedal won't budge. It's not the first time I've taken pedals off. It is however the first time a pedal snapped on me and I couldn't get it to budge.

[dustyrider]

Yes that's where I put the wrench. The spindle was not exposed until the pedal broke when I applied pressure on the wrench. It stripped the flat sides on the ends and rounded them. The pedal won't budge. It's not the first time I've taken pedals off. It is however the first time a pedal snapped on me and I couldn't get it to budge.

I can see one completely flat side on the spindle...must be the other side that you rounded? Pull the pedal off and grab the spindle with vise grips or a small pipe wrench. Something to slip over the handle for leverage...maybe seatpost? Sounds like you know which way to turn. This will potentially ruin your axle.

[AngryScientist]

what you're describing doesn't really make sense with regard to what should be happening. i have a feeling you're doing something wrong. i can't see how you would break a pedal body trying to remove the pedal. the wrench goes on the axle, and you should be leveraging the wrench against the crank arm.

[parallelfish]

The picture does not make sense. Where exactly did you place the wrench? If at the proper place, do not see how it would have cracked the pedal body, nor buggered up the spindle as it appears in the picture.

Did you place the wrench on the two flats at the base of the spindle, right next to the crank arm?

[saab2000]

what you're describing doesn't really make sense with regard to what should be happening. i have a feeling you're doing something wrong. i can't see how you would break a pedal body trying to remove the pedal. the wrench goes on the axle, and you should be leveraging the wrench against the crank arm.

The picture does not make sense. Where exactly did you place the wrench? If at the proper place, do not see how it would have cracked the pedal body, nor buggered up the spindle as it appears in the picture.

Did you place the wrench on the two flats at the base of the spindle, right next to the crank arm?

Yeah, something doesn't make sense here. The pedal body won't break by using the pedal tool on the pedal axle, right next to the crank arm.

[AngryScientist]

in this picture, looking at the pedal on the right. the wrench should be on the rightmost area, that has only two wrench flats, the axle. if you've put a wrench anywhere else, you're doing it wrong.

http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/0/d/new-campagnolo-record-titanium-pro-fit-vintage-pedals-003147db90b44bed9beb8b9996bc1480.jpg

[Louis]

Yeah, something doesn't make sense here. The pedal body won't break by using the pedal tool on the pedal axle, right next to the crank arm.

Maybe the OP was using the pedal body for leverage.

[Hilltopperny]

The picture does not make sense. Where exactly did you place the wrench? If at the proper place, do not see how it would have cracked the pedal body, nor buggered up the spindle as it appears in the picture.

Did you place the wrench on the two flats at the base of the spindle, right next to the crank arm?

The spindle was damaged by vise grips after the initial crack in the pedal body. I assure you guys that I applied the wrench correctly and when I applied the pressure the pedal cracked and the wrench slid off. When I applied the wrench again I realized the flat ends were stripped and rounded. The picture is after multiple attempts to remove the pedal so there are more marks than the initial incident. I even tried my back up pedal wrench to see if the one I used had some sort of issue. The right side pedal came off no problem with the same wrench. Not really sure what happened, but I've changed pedals on multiple bikes without issue before. This was the first time since purchasing the bike a few years ago that I tried to remove the pedals from it. I'm assuming the previous owner somehow over torqued it?

[buldogge]

Per your pic...the nut looking section on the pedal body is not for removing the pedal from the crank...As already mentioned, the wretch flats are intact, and just need to be turned in the proper direction (as stated earlier, as well).

You've cracked the pedal body, and it has slipped on the spindle...

-Mark in St. Louis

[dustyrider]

When I applied the wrench again I realized the flat ends were stripped and rounded.

A picture of this would put my mind to rest.

If the piece on the pedal that looks like a nut is in fact a threaded sleeve into the pedal body, I can see how the pedal would crack in the way pictured. Some pedals are trickier than others to install/remove because of the interface clearance between pedal body crank and tool. I know I've used a cone wrench once or twice instead of the park tool.

[parallelfish]

Per your pic...the nut looking section on the pedal body is not for removing the pedal from the crank...As already mentioned, the wretch flats are intact, and just need to be turned in the proper direction (as stated earlier, as well).

You've cracked the pedal body, and it has slipped on the spindle...

-Mark in St. Louis

That's what I am thinking.

Lets try this approach - what size wrench was used?

[Hilltopperny]

Per your pic...the nut looking section on the pedal body is not for removing the pedal from the crank...As already mentioned, the wretch flats are intact, and just need to be turned in the proper direction (as stated earlier, as well).

You've cracked the pedal body, and it has slipped on the spindle...

-Mark in St. Louis

Yes again, I did not put the wrench on the spindle body. I put the wrench on the flats as the pedal wrench wouldn't fit the spindle body if I wanted it to. I applied the wrench the exact same way I did to the right side and removed the right side without issue. The flats as seen in the picture literally got marred up and will not allow for the wrench to stay on them any longer. I get that it's possible for me to have made some kind of error, but I am positive that I applied the wrench properly. The flats somehow got rounded and caused the wrench to slip off in turn cracking the casing of the pedal.

[Hilltopperny]

Park tool 15mm pedal wrench was used.

[moobikes]

I see some rounding on the outside corner of the left side wrench flat in the picture. But it looks like enough of it is left to work. Assuming the threads aren't seized.

If your pedal wrench has jaws that are worn, get a new one and a good one.

If the wrench fits a little loose on the pedal axle, make a shim with a soda can and use that to make the wrench fit tightly on the axle. I've done this and it works.

You can also butt the front wheel against a wall to help you mash down on the wrench without having the bike trying to move forward. You will obviously have to hold the handlebar to prevent the wheel from turning.

Hope this helps.

[Hilltopperny]

I see some rounding on the outside corner of the left side wrench flat in the picture. But it looks like enough of it is left to work. Assuming the threads aren't seized.

If your pedal wrench has jaws that are worn, get a new one and a good one.

If the wrench fits a little loose on the pedal axle, make a shim with a soda can and use that to make the wrench fit tightly on the axle. I've done this and it works.

You can also butt the front wheel against a wall to help you mash down on the wrench without having the bike trying to move forward. You will obviously have to hold the handlebar to prevent the wheel from turning.

Hope this helps.

Thanks! I will certainly give it a try. I do believe the threads must be seized in order for it to give me such trouble. I sprayed it with some PB blaster to try and free it up with no luck. I will try the shim method you recommend for sure.

[saab2000]

Try with a shop Park wrench. They're longer and have more leverage. If it's seized you might just have the chuck the crank arm and find one on eBay. There are only millions to be had.

Try this wrench, with a 'persuader' bar attached. :banana:

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/TFB10_ParkToolPW4-3.jpg

[Hilltopperny]

Try with a shop Park wrench. They're longer and have more leverage. If it's seized you might just have the chuck the crank arm and find one on eBay. There are only millions to be had.

Try this wrench, with a 'persuader' bar attached. :banana:

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/TFB10_ParkToolPW4-3.jpg

Yes this looks a bit more stout and may do the trick. My lbs has one and I'll be going there tomorrow to get this out one way or another. Hopefully that'll do the trick!

[AngryScientist]

i think i understand what happened now.

you've got plenty of options left, based on that picture before you give up, no matter how stuck they are.

those flats arent messed up badly enough for a beefy wrench not to work. if all else fails, a little heat on the crank arm should do it. aluminum has a much higher coefficient of expansion than steel, and should break the bond there.

keep at it!

[dustyrider]

Normally I wouldn't go out on a limb like this....but remove the pedal, lock a pair of vise grips onto that spindle, and turn it the opposite direction you've been trying.

[Hilltopperny]

Normally I wouldn't go out on a limb like this....but remove the pedal, lock a pair of vise grips onto that spindle, and turn it the opposite direction you've been trying.

Will try this if all else fails. Going to hang it up for tonight and borrow the shop park wrench from the lbs and hope that does the trick. I'll dissect the pedal after either way to have a look at what's going on. Thanks for the insight folks and I will let you know how it works out tomorrow!

[vqdriver]

Could remove the arm and bang the bugger on the ground before trying again
Can also drill a hole across the diameter of it. Slide a rod in there for the bite

[m_sasso]

After you remove the pedal cage, remove the crank arm, put the pedal spindle in a table vise, put on a pair of gloves to avoid damage your hands by the chain rings and use the crank arm as your lever.

Ah, looked at your picture again, left pedal so no chain rings to worry about, however be sure to capture the spindle in the vise jaws at the pedal wrench flats.

[huck*this]

After you remove the pedal cage, remove the crank arm, put the pedal spindle in a table vise, put on a pair of gloves to avoid damage your hands by the chain rings and use the crank arm as your lever.

Wow exactly what I was going to type!

[Peter P.]

You sure you're wrenching on the correct pedal flats?

Looks like you backed off the hex nut attaching the pedal bearing to the pedal body. I see the flats of the axle and they look okay to me.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I suggest Freeze-Off and a good (i.e. MUSA) 15mm wrench struck with a mallet. Those wrench flats are not fubar.

[oldpotatoe]

After you remove the pedal cage, remove the crank arm, put the pedal spindle in a table vise, put on a pair of gloves to avoid damage your hands by the chain rings and use the crank arm as your lever.

Ah, looked at your picture again, left pedal so no chain rings to worry about, however be sure to capture the spindle in the vise jaws at the pedal wrench flats.

Yup, crank arm off, pedal spindle remnants in a vice, turn/push crank arm clockwise.

[Hilltopperny]

Going to the lbs today with it. He let's me use his stuff, so won't be leaving until I get the sucker out of there. Will let you guys know what ends up working.

[Nooch]

so, I've obviously never used campy pedals before, but I take it there's no hex on the end of the spindle for removal? Or was that just something that wasn't done in the 9-speed era (keeping in mind I only got into this sport in like, 2010...)

[oldpotatoe]

so, I've obviously never used campy pedals before, but I take it there's no hex on the end of the spindle for removal? Or was that just something that wasn't done in the 9-speed era (keeping in mind I only got into this sport in like, 2010...)

No, no 6/8mm hex on end.

[Clydesdale]

You're loosening toward the rear wheel yes? That's true on both sides.

Could the pedal have already been cracked? Hard to see how cranking on the axle could have cracked the body. Weird.

Good luck and let us know how it goes at the shop.

[batman1425]

My guess is the arm of the pedal wrench was pinned on the pedal body while you were trying to break it loose. You push down to remove the pedal, it won't budge, so the tool starts rounding off the flats and slipping outwards but its blocked by the pedal body. So a large component of the force goes laterally into the pedal body - result - crack.

Pedal is toast, but a big wrench, and a bit of heat, it'll come out.

[Hilltopperny]

The shop wrench worked with some vise grips!:hello:
Life is good once again!

[Hilltopperny]

My guess is the arm of the pedal wrench was pinned on the pedal body while you were trying to break it loose. You push down to remove the pedal, it won't budge, so the tool starts rounding off the flats and slipping outwards but its blocked by the pedal body. So a large component of the force goes laterally into the pedal body - result - crack.

Pedal is toast, but a big wrench, and a bit of heat, it'll come out.

Yes this is what happened. The big wrench was braced by some vise grips did the trick with some serious force, but it was still pretty stubborn. The bike shop owner was surprised how tight it was on there.

[verbeke06]

never over-tighten the pedals and always apply grease!

[Hilltopperny]

never over-tighten the pedals and always apply grease!

Pedals were installed when I bought the bike. I was riding it a lot on gravel and stone dust as well.

[Hank Scorpio]

never over-tighten the pedals and always apply grease!

Coming soon to a classified section near you......

Something from this guy. :rolleyes:

[Hilltopperny]

Coming soon to a classified section near you......

Something from this guy. :rolleyes:

Certainly not, unless someone has a need for one good pedal...:no:

[Hank Scorpio]

Certainly not, unless someone has a need for one good pedal...:no:

That wasn't directed at you.