Shimano Disc Brake Road Install

[eippo1]

So I decided to go hydraulic for the Warbird and got some Shimano Hydraulic brakes for it. I know how to bleed a pre-bled system, but these come completely un-assembled. Since I'd like to do it myself, anyone have any tips on how to do it? I assume do it bottom up like with a bleed? Clear all bubbles and then put a bunch of new fluid in there? Anything to watch out for with installing the olive etc?

Can't find much on road hydraulics online, but any help would be appreciated.

[eBAUMANN]

havent done any shimano road stuff, but the mtb levers are the easily things in the world to work with...especially compared to sram road levers.

you can install the barb/olive without any special tools but i have a jagwire barb press thingy that works pretty well and makes the job easier.

beyond that, it should just be a matter of cutting the hose to length, attaching on both ends, filling the line with fluid from the lever via gravity, then bleeding the system.
ive only ever bled shimano stuff with the little cup thingy up top on the lever and using gravity to force fluid/bubbles through the line and out the bleed port on the caliper.

i could be completely wrong though, just going by what seems logical.

[Look585]

I mounted some hydro Di2s on the lady's bike. It was pretty straight forward, definitely get the "one way bleed" kit, keeps the mess to a minimum.

There are instructions in the Di2 users guide. Search for R785 and/or RS785. I have an e-copy but it is too large to attach here. PM with an email and I'll send it over.

Shimano Bleed Kit (http://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_Disc_Brake_One-Way_Bleed_Kit_TL-BT03/descpage-SH1WBTL.html)

[bewheels]

I would also recommend the bleed kit. Don't bother with a 'do it your self' kit. Slap down the $20 and get the real deal. The follow Shimano directions. You will be good to go.

[Charles M]

Youtube it... If you cant find it for Shimano, look up SRAM. They have step by step and functionally it's very similar

[eippo1]

Okey doke. Thanks for the recommendations. The fill first part of it is something I was looking for. Seemed like all tutorials jumped right into the bleed and it just seemed like a step was missing.

Funny thing is I can't find a bleed kit now. Guess I'll order from the interpersonal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[bewheels]

Look585 had posted the link to the kit...here it is again. http://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_Disc_Brake_One-Way_Bleed_Kit_TL-BT03/descpage-SH1WBTL.html

You will also see the Shimano fluid on the page under the "you may also want" section down further.

[commonguy001]

Look585 had posted the link to the kit...here it is again. http://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_Disc_Brake_One-Way_Bleed_Kit_TL-BT03/descpage-SH1WBTL.html

You will also see the Shimano fluid on the page under the "you may also want" section down further.

Yeah this is the kit I would get. I got the stripped down kit without the syringe and got it done but you may as well get one as its a nice option to have.
The hydro install on my warbird was my first shimano road install also and it was very straight forward.
If you need a YouTube diy video I will see if I can track the one down I watched which was very helpful.

[tigoat]

The bleeding part should be straightforward, as you will find a lot of online tutorials for it. Shimano should have some basic installation steps in the manual that you should follow. There is really not a whole lot to it after the first time you put the system together. The basic steps would be as following the way I would do it with some right tools for the job.

-Cut the hose to fit the bike. Make sure all bends are gentle and not tight.
-Slide the rubber cover, the nut, and the seal (olive) onto the hose
-Push the barb into the hose. Make sure it will seat properly at the end of the hose.
-Push the hose into the port of the caliber/lever. Make sure you push it all the way in.
-Tighten the nut slowly to crush the seal. This is a little tricky because I don’t recall reading in the manual how tight should it be to properly crush the seal. I have always done it by feel and never had a problem with many installations.
-Now push fluid into the system through the bleeding process. Make sure the bleeding block is installed in the caliber while bleeding the system.
-Clean up thoroughly before installing the pads.
-Test ride around the block before doing a serious ride to make sure the brakes are working properly and there is no leakage anywhere.

That’s about all there is to it.

[eippo1]

Yeah this is the kit I would get. I got the stripped down kit without the syringe and got it done but you may as well get one as its a nice option to have.
The hydro install on my warbird was my first shimano road install also and it was very straight forward.
If you need a YouTube diy video I will see if I can track the one down I watched which was very helpful.

Yeah, I was searching locally so that I could do it tonight or tomorrow night. I'll get the kit from Arts. So for the olive, it will seat where it needs to be automatically? Does the nut push it into place? Plan on using a vice plus hammer to get the barb in place.

[DRietz]

When I do these systems from the ground up (not pre-bled), I typically just attach the funnel to the lever, a syringe to the caliper, and push fluid through 3-5 times (requires a quick disconnect and refill each time). That seems to get rid of all the air in the system and takes about 10 minutes a brake.

[eippo1]

When I do these systems from the ground up (not pre-bled), I typically just attach the funnel to the lever, a syringe to the caliper, and push fluid through 3-5 times (requires a quick disconnect and refill each time). That seems to get rid of all the air in the system and takes about 10 minutes a brake.

So do you suck the same fluid out of the funnel or use new fluid each time? On second thought, you'd need to keep adding fluid, but then can you reuse some of the same fluid for the other brake? Or am I really just overthinking this and need to do it?

[commonguy001]

Yeah, I was searching locally so that I could do it tonight or tomorrow night. I'll get the kit from Arts. So for the olive, it will seat where it needs to be automatically? Does the nut push it into place? Plan on using a vice plus hammer to get the barb in place.

You just need to put the olive and nutted portion on before you put the end/barb in the hose, it'll slide down and seat when you put it together. Or do one end, slide all the parts on then do the other end which is what I did.

[commonguy001]

So do you suck the same fluid out of the funnel or use new fluid each time? On second thought, you'd need to keep adding fluid, but then can you reuse some of the same fluid for the other brake? Or am I really just overthinking this and need to do it?

I ended up not even using the two bottles that came with the set and never reused from the plastic bag I drained everything into. I simply added fluid to keep from getting air into the system and that was that.

Edit - not sure where you are but if you were in the Twin Cities I have the stuff and would be more than happy to help you out.

[11.4]

You can load mineral oil from the bottom or from the top, with the bike upright and the front end raised so the funnel is vertical. It can help to remove the rear caliper and let it hang down to get a little more elevation. Some people like to work from one direction, some from the other -- I found that pumping up from below took care of recalcitrant bubbles a bit better on one install, and on the next I found the top-down approach worked better, so go figure.

The funnel is critical, along with the little rod that you use to plug it before you remove it from the brake lever. Don't bother to read or watch instructions using MTB brakes -- the system for Shimano's road hydro is simply different and much easier. You can always do it the MTB way, but it'll take longer and frustrate you more.

Mineral oil likes to get everywhere, including on your bike, floor, and especially on the calipers and rotor if you aren't careful. It's best to remove the wheels and the brake pads, and install the fat spacer that comes with the calipers. Have a spray bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store to spray and clean everything with, have a clean towel to keep your hands clean, and have a couple under the bike so the inevitable oil spills don't make it a skating rink.