Maintaining the finish on a Ti frame

[farmallguy]

So I picked up a Serotta Legend Ti. I want to restore some of the Ti areas to their original finish. I read about using the gray scotchbrite but that leaves the finish duller than original. It was not a highly polished finish just. I was wondering if anyone knows if there is anything less abrasive than the gray scotchbrite or is the next step a polishing compound, and if so what compounds have you used?

Also, any recommendations for removing ragged decals from the Ti areas of the frame?

Thanks, you guys are always a big help!



http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697922803&stc=1&d=1468083029

[linger]

Lava soap or similiar liquid soap with pumice in it works ok and is way less aggressive than scotchbrite. I have had luck with that. Just use water and some of it and really work it in with your hands, thumbs, etc.

Have also used scotchbrite on seatpsts with good results.

Decals: acetone?

[Mikej]

Find the brownish red scothbrite- also cut it into 1" strips and go perpendicular to the tube. Don't rub it lengthwise-

[berserk87]

Don't rub it lengthwise-

This, in and of itself, may be sound advice...for a great many things.

I could not control my inner 10th grader.

[farmallguy]

Find the brownish red scothbrite- also cut it into 1" strips and go perpendicular to the tube. Don't rub it lengthwise-

Thanks, I forgot to ask if there is a grain to the Ti and what direction to polish.

[avalonracing]

I have taken the brushed titanium finish on a Ti frame back to factory fresh on more than one bike. You can do this with a green "Never Scratch" pad.

Cut the pad into a 1" wide 4-6" long strip and hold the strip by both ends and gently brush it perpendicular to the tube the way you would shine a shoe. The KEY part is to use almost no pressure at all. Just let the pad lightly slide back and forth against the tube. Move along the frame at a near impossibly slow rate to keep the marks perpendicular. (And make sure the frame is completely clean first!).

This only works for brushed Ti frames. This image is low res so it looks like bit dull (I always have trouble directly posting High-Res, un-hosted images to the Paceline) but mind you this finish gleams in person.




http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697922803&stc=1&d=1468083029[/QUOTE]

[farmallguy]

I have taken the brushed titanium finish on a Ti frame back to factory fresh on more than one bike. You can do this with a green "Never Scratch" pad.

[/QUOTE]

Is the "Never Scratch" pad a different brand than Scotchbrite? Where are you able to find it? This sounds like the thing to use!

[bicycletricycle]

#0000 wire wool is very mild, almost feels soft to the touch.

[avalonracing]

Is the "Never Scratch" pad a different brand than Scotchbrite? Where are you able to find it? This sounds like the thing to use![/QUOTE]

Sorry, yes, it is the green ScotchBrite pad you can buy almost anyplace.

Again, the key is almost no pressure and take your time. Test yourself on the underside of a tube. You can do the whole frame within a couple of hours and the time flies because it is becoming beautiful right in front of you.

I will say when I've done this to a proper "full refinish" I removed the decals with acetone and put a new set back on when done.

[Louis]

I say ride it a few times, and forget about the finish. Of the various bike frame materials out there Ti is the lowest maintenance of all and unless you're planing on entering it in some sort of Pebble Beach concourse, the simplest thing is to ignore it.

[Black Dog]

The grey scotch bright is the ticket. You can start with some pressure on the really scuffed areas and then move to really light pressure with back and forth motion perpendicular to the tubes as was mentioned above. Cut into strips also as was mentioned. You can source it at autobody supply shops cheaply. If you want a really bright finish get the white pads. The maroon pads are great for deeper scratches and scuffs.

[Dead Man]

I use red scotchbrite and scrub the **** out of it

Gives it a very even, distinct "brite" brushed finish... perfect


But.... there's more to it than just brush it. How you gonna get those corners and right spots? Cut little strips that you can wrap over the heads of various size tools - screwdrivers for the really tight spots, chisels for wider-but-still-kind-tight spots, etc. Always go "with the grain," and watch for diagonal motion... you need to creep along the tube very slowly as you scrub vigorously back and forth, so's not to end up with diagonal brush strokes.

Likewise, you have to get your arms/body/elbows/whatever into the right position to hit those tight tool-head spots and have them come out the same brushed finish, with the same brush stroke direction... if you're refinishing a whole bike, strip it down completey, remove all decals with acetone-soaked paper towels wrapped around the decals and left to soak for a couple minutes, and then chuck the seatpin up in your workstand and don't be afraid to spin the whole frame around upside down, left, right, whatever, to ensure you can hit it at just the right angle to make sure all the brush strokes are even and the correct hue.

I've done 3-4 complete frames, with plenty of toucbing up and stems and seatpins... all come out factory brilliant and perfect, when I'm willing to give it the right amount of effort.

[djg21]

I've used Rolite metal polish on an old Merlin and it worked great. The newer Rolite product appears to be called Midas Touch. http://rolitecompany.com/product/midas-touch-metal-polish-2-oz-tube/

[cadence90]

I really think that knowing the original finish on the ti (high-polished; polished; brushed; or bead-blasted) is very important before determining what media to use.

Matching a polished finish by hand is actually easier; matching a brushed or blasted finish not so much.
(As others have noted, 3M Scotchbrite pads ("Red" or "Rust" #7447, Very Fine grade) usually work OK, but imo better used in small, circular or even eccentric motions (just try to match the pattern of the original frame finish).

That said:
"Dawn" dish detergent is a great general-purpose ti cleaner/de-greaser.
"Pledge" furniture spray applied and then rubbed is an excellent general-purpose ti finish treatment.

[rwsaunders]

Since you're essentially only dealing with the rear triangle on the frame, it shouldn't be as laborious if you follow the other suggestions. You might want to start with Pledge and see if that's enough to float your boat. Those 3/4 painted Serotta Ti frames are good looking frames and in removing the decals on the chainstays, you'll still have the downtube decals intact.

[Mikej]

#0000 wire wool is very mild, almost feels soft to the touch.

I would not recommend steel wool- fine particles can be embedded into the ti and rust -

[Dead Man]

I would not recommend steel wool- fine particles can be embedded into the ti and rust -

Now that you mention it, I vaguely remember seeing this happen somewhere.. Maybe even here?

[Vinci]

I "refinish" my Litespeed around once a year. I just strip the gear off and rub it down with some maroon 3M pads. I think the part number is 07447. You can get them at auto parts stores or Amazon.

I scuff the tubes such that I follow the "mill finish", and it looks bright, shiny and new after. It's fantastic. It takes any scuffs and scratches out with it. Even when the Ti isn't scuffed, going over it with the 3M pad brightens it right up. It's gorgeous.

Decals come off nicely with acetone most times. If that doesn't work well, Jasco Paint and Epoxy remover will get it (use it OUTSIDE).

[John H.]

It should also be mentioned that not all ti finishes should be touched up- it needs to be a brushed type finish for "brushing" to touch it up.

[Satellite]

It should also be mentioned that not all ti finishes should be touched up- it needs to be a brushed type finish for "brushing" to touch it up.

Yep true Moots require the use of a Bead Blaster and OO Media. You can't do that with a Scotch Brite Pad. IF (I think) used Shot Peen.

[Dead Man]

and on the other end of that spectrum, a polished Ti frame requires a hell of a lot of work to fully brush out... especially the welds, which are super hard and don't brush well at all.

But dayum a formerly polished, brushed Ti frame sure is brite and purdy

[tv_vt]

Right - bead-blasted ti can't be touched up, and highly polished ti can't be either.

And neither can a clear-coated ti frame be touched up - think Spectrum titanium frames are one of the few that have clear coat sprayed over the entire frame, except for the DS chainstay. They need to be re-sprayed.

Otherwise, don't overthink this. The green scotchbrite pads for the kitchen sink work fine. As others have said, don't rub tubing length-wise, go around the tubing, like you are doing laps around the tube. Soap and water helps, as does Pledge.

[farmallguy]

Wow, a ton of great info from everyone. Thanks. The original finish might be considered polished, a guess on my part. I peeled off the chainstay protector and found what I am using as my goal for the final finish and it looked fairly shiny but not a high polish. I'm just trying to get everything to look the same as far as the finish goes.

I was looking at a box of 7448 gray Scotchbrite at work today and on it was a graphic showing that 7745 was even less aggressive and 7445 the least aggressive( 7445 is the white stuff previously mentioned). I think I'll get a few pieces of each and test them out. After this frame I need to spruce up my Ottrott too.

Can't wait to ride it.

Thanks again!

[kingpin75s]

As has been said, if you are looking to replicate a specific finish, it may be difficult.

If you want a nice finish that you can clean up over and over, I have refinished a number of Ti frames and I do as follows:

-Start with the Red Scotch Brite for the first pass and use plenty of water
-Use the Green Scotch Brite for the final finish
-Always work in small circles so no clear pattern

Once you have refinished, the green does the trick for most touch ups and removes very little material.

Good luck!

[Dead Man]

-Always work in small circles so no clear pattern

Gotta pic??

[avalonracing]

Will you guys stop fooling around and just admit that my way is best!

(OP- if you seriously want to see a sharp, full-res image to get a feel for the finish just PM me your email address and I'll send you a sharper shot).