OT: painting stair risers (a/k/a one project creeps into another....)

[TBLS]

Just refinished wood floors and stair treads. Boss now wants risers painted (now clear poly...real old, not just refinished)...way OT for cycling but hoping someone has tackled task before and can provide tips on paint type (oil base, latex) and reco for painters tape (have never used before as can cut pretty well but plan on using due to sight lines, etc.

Plan to sand/scuff and tack existing wood, tape, prime and paint...thoughts are one of the light adhesion painters tape but uncertain if one brand better than others

Tips?

[echelon_john]

Green frog tape is superior to anything else I've used.

[45K10]

Just refinished wood floors and stair treads. Boss now wants risers painted (now clear poly...real old, not just refinished)...way OT for cycling but hoping someone has tackled task before and can provide tips on paint type (oil base, latex) and reco for painters tape (have never used before as can cut pretty well but plan on using due to sight lines, etc.

Plan to sand/scuff and tack existing wood, tape, prime and paint...thoughts are one of the light adhesion painters tape but uncertain if one brand better than others

Tips?

I just re-built our stairs and repainted the risers. I went with a white semi-gloss latex paint. As far as tape goes, get the 3M blue masking tape, it saves a lot of headaches.

[paredown]

Old school thinking was that if you had poly on there you should degloss, either manually sanding to remove some of the original finsh, using a stripper or a product like Wil-Bond Degloss that chemically alters the surface so that paint will stick.

Cleaning with TSP also recommended if you go the sanding route.

Then use a quality primer and oil based enamel--or one of the newer acrylics. (The enamels are not what they used to be... and take a long time to set up hard.) Latex over oil used to be considered a no-no, but maybe the newer latex will not have a tendency to peel?

I'm a big fan of Benjamin Moore--because usually the stores selling it have veterans behind the counter than can make recommendations that you can trust.

[summilux]

Don't bother with painters tape. If sight lines are an issue, try getting a really small cutting brush and a short one. I've got a 1" one and a 2" with a really short handle. Also a small artist brush will let you hit the absolute corners and touch up. Latex with primer mix should be enough to adhere in a non-wear area. I did my risers this way.

A good set of kneepads will make the job go faster.

[staggerwing]

I've always loved painting trim with classic oil-based enamel. But, the stuff is getting harder to get, some object to the smell, takes a bit longer to dry, and will eventually yellow over time.

Go to a real paint store, tell them what you are doing, and inquire about waterborne enamels. Modern formulations are quite good. Last stuff I hung was California Paint Everlife Waterborne.

[shovelhd]

You can also try using a paint guide. I prefer the stainless edged ones.

[shovelhd]

Back to the title of your thread. I know the feeling. I started my latest project replacing a few broken ceramic floor tiles in the kitchen. Two turned to five and ended up with 16. The previous owner had spares in the basement. I used some of the colored grout that was used previously. Didn't match. I ended up cleaning the grout in the whole area. Used up two grout brushes. It was better but still didn't match. So I ended up using a colored grout sealer to make it all look like new. Looks great now, and would have cost me thousands to have done, but man it wasn't the project I started with.

[blakcloud]

I was a painter for 20 years so I have painted a lot of risers. Degloss what is on there now, prime with Benjamin Moore oil Underbody and then use Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo for the top coat. It is an oil paint and hard to find. Here in Canada you have to tell the paint store why you need oil paint and you just say to paint metal.

The paint stores will try and convince you that all the new latex primers and paints are as good, but this is a fallacy at best.

Satin Impervo is not a semi-gloss but a satin finish which helps in hiding imperfections that will show up with higher gloss oil paints. Oil paints also level out which means you won't see brush marks. Which also leads me to buy paint brushes for oil paint and make sure the are natural bristle. Do NOT buy brushes that say for latex and oil. Purdy makes great bristle brushes. Buy a sash brush (angled bristles) and don't use any kind of roller unless you lay it over with a brush. Long strokes from one end to the other. Have fun.

[buldogge]

Scuff, clean, and seal with Zisser B-I-N (shellac primer...negates the oil/latex issue). I always use(d) BM Impervo Gloss (oil) for trim...but we have started switching all new products to BM Advance (latex), as the Impervo Gloss has been discontinued.

I'm in the middle of a stair project myself (new oak treads/risers). Skirts will be painted trim color, but treads/risers will be stained/shellaced/finished.

Since you did the finish first (good), taping and latex removal will be easier, if needed.

Note, the B-I-N primer will eat thru water-based finishes (i.e. drops create fisheyes).

-Mark in St. Louis

[mg2ride]

I was a painter for 20 years so I have painted a lot of risers. Degloss what is on there now, prime with Benjamin Moore oil Underbody and then use Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo for the top coat. It is an oil paint and hard to find. Here in Canada you have to tell the paint store why you need oil paint and you just say to paint metal.

The paint stores will try and convince you that all the new latex primers and paints are as good, but this is a fallacy at best.

Satin Impervo is not a semi-gloss but a satin finish which helps in hiding imperfections that will show up with higher gloss oil paints. Oil paints also level out which means you won't see brush marks. Which also leads me to buy paint brushes for oil paint and make sure the are natural bristle. Do NOT buy brushes that say for latex and oil. Purdy makes great bristle brushes. Buy a sash brush (angled bristles) and don't use any kind of roller unless you lay it over with a brush. Long strokes from one end to the other. Have fun.

Everything he says!

I used this method and these products to do some kitchen cabinets years ago and they came out GREAT!

I'm a believer in multiple thin coats