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View Full Version : Mid '90's Campagnolo aero/non-aero brake lever question


nesteel
06-13-2016, 09:09 PM
These are the brake levers I have:

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt33/jangus_photos/Bike%20pics/Untitled_zpssqj599iw.png (http://s595.photobucket.com/user/jangus_photos/media/Bike%20pics/Untitled_zpssqj599iw.png.html)

I'd like to run them in the non-aero routing configuration. Does anyone know the part number, or have an exploded view of them, showing the small metal plate that fits into the cable pivot slot, locking the pivot in place for non-aero cable routing?

thirdgenbird
06-13-2016, 09:50 PM
You shouldn't need them. I used them as I shipped them to you.

Edit:
I read that wrong. I thought you said aero routing.

oldpotatoe
06-14-2016, 06:18 AM
These are the brake levers I have:

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt33/jangus_photos/Bike%20pics/Untitled_zpssqj599iw.png (http://s595.photobucket.com/user/jangus_photos/media/Bike%20pics/Untitled_zpssqj599iw.png.html)

I'd like to run them in the non-aero routing configuration. Does anyone know the part number, or have an exploded view of them, showing the small metal plate that fits into the cable pivot slot, locking the pivot in place for non-aero cable routing?

Same levers I have and no plate and yes, spring in the lever. Just poke a hole in the hood and housing out the op, with ferrule on housing. BUT they work/feel way better 'aero'...

velofinds
06-14-2016, 12:06 PM
I am rather curious why OP wishes to run the levers 'non-aero'. Eroica rules? Aesthetics?

nesteel
06-14-2016, 12:30 PM
I am rather curious why OP wishes to run the levers 'non-aero'. Eroica rules? Aesthetics?

Purely asthetics. This bike is my alternate choice for Cino Heroica this year (possibly moving it up to my primary choice). While the rules dont prohibit aero routind, I'd prefer to honor the spirit of the ride and go with non aero routing.
Without some way to block the slot, these levers are pretty darn useless in non aero mode. I shall have to come up with a homebrewed solution.

wallymann
06-14-2016, 12:31 PM
all the feeback is correct, the OP's levers are the later design that did away with that little (and easily lost) grooved metal insert.

fwiw...i believe that insert was *ONLY* for aero-routing, and not used when running std-routing.

here's what they look like:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/IsAAAOSwqrtWnFfF/$_1.JPG

nesteel
06-14-2016, 12:50 PM
It is nigh impossible to keep the cable anchor at the back of the slot while you route the cable and housing. If the anchor slips forward during routing, lever motion is wasted taking up the slack while braking.

choke
06-14-2016, 01:17 PM
I totally understand your problem.....I just went through the same thing. I thought about trying the part that Walter posted to keep the barrel from moving, they are available on ebay but they are crazy expensive and I wasn't sure that they would do the trick. In the end I decided to make something myself.

I purchased a piece of Kydex and cut out a strip the width of the opening and about 1.5 times the length of the slot. I heated it and folded both ends back over themselves; once I inserted it into the slot I then heated it a bit more and moved the folded parts back towards the ends to hold it in place. I only have a couple of rides on it so I have no idea of the long term durability but it has worked fine so far.

I wasn't smart enough to take any pics during the process but this should give you some idea.

http://www.cycle.ciocctoo.com/leverfix.jpg

Brian Cdn
06-14-2016, 02:12 PM
Are you running cantilever brakes and a cross fork on the Bianchi ?

thirdgenbird
06-14-2016, 02:44 PM
Are you running cantilever brakes and a cross fork on the Bianchi ?

That picture belongs to me. The frame was a reparto corse cx frame. The fork was a Goodrich.

nesteel
06-14-2016, 03:29 PM
I totally understand your problem.....I just went through the same thing. I thought about trying the part that Walter posted to keep the barrel from moving, they are available on ebay but they are crazy expensive and I wasn't sure that they would do the trick. In the end I decided to make something myself.

I purchased a piece of Kydex and cut out a strip the width of the opening and about 1.5 times the length of the slot. I heated it and folded both ends back over themselves; once I inserted it into the slot I then heated it a bit more and moved the folded parts back towards the ends to hold it in place. I only have a couple of rides on it so I have no idea of the long term durability but it has worked fine so far.

I wasn't smart enough to take any pics during the process but this should give you some idea.

http://www.cycle.ciocctoo.com/leverfix.jpg

Yep. Pretty much the jist of what I was thinking of cludging together.

Tandem Rider
06-14-2016, 05:35 PM
Give me time to look, I did have a pair of those pieces in a drawer, I'll let you know tonight.

nesteel
06-14-2016, 08:57 PM
Give me time to look, I did have a pair of those pieces in a drawer, I'll let you know tonight.

Thanks. Appreciate it.

Tandem Rider
06-15-2016, 05:13 AM
Found em'. Let me find a small padded envelope for them and I'll get them ready to go.

wallymann
06-15-2016, 08:01 AM
...I thought about trying the part that Walter posted to keep the barrel from moving, they are available on ebay but they are crazy expensive and I wasn't sure that they would do the trick. In the end I decided to make something myself...

fwiw...choke's suspicion is correct: those little metal inserts are not designed to work with the later campy aero levers in any way.

if you want the later aero levers to run with std routing, you'll have to find another way to fix the sliding anchor in place -- something similar to what choke did.