Clipping in on Steep Inclines From Stopped Position

[Splash]

This is a barrier for me at the moment, and hurts me to see any riders I have been riding with ride off without me after being stopped at traffic lights...

Can you provide your tips and recommendations to master this art, including answers to the following:


How should i set the bike up immediately before I unclip as I approach a stop (gearing, pedal position, etc.)?

How should I prepare to clip in just before I want to clip in?

How should i clip in when ready to go?

What should i inspect before I start riding (cleat adjustments, pedal position at rest, etc.)?

What balancing technique should i employ?




I have Look KEO Pedals.

There are no posts to hang onto either.

I cannot stay stationary whilst clipped in and have no intention of learning this strategy.



Splash

[jtakeda]

Go down to a lower gear.

Depending on how good you are at clipping in id start with my right leg (my dominant leg) at the 3 o'clock position and step down a big step.

Use my heel on my left leg (the unclipped foot) to pedal a couple revolutions to get a little momentum and then clip in.

Gear up and smoke your friends up the hill

[Cicli]

I always start with my clipped in foot just starting to push on the downstroke. When the other pedal is on the way up, hit it. Its really just muscle memory. Takes practice.

[Splash]

Thanks guys,

I always ensure I am in the lowest gear before I unclip and always start off in the lowest gear, but still have issues - on steep inclines.

How do you combat the steep incline gradient from a stopped position - any change to your technique?

Splash

[Louis]

Don't stop at the light.

(someone had to say it)

Assuming there's a cross-road going all the way through the intersection, you can try to angle the bike to the right and begin to head down the cross street - that usually can reduce the grade quite a bit and make it easier to get some forward momentum.

[regularguy412]

Well,,,,, How steep is 'steep'? I mean if it's 10% or more, I'd actually try not to stop right 'there' and get to some place where I could at least 'one-leg' it for a bit. By that I mean, just stay clipped in on your one side and ratchet-pedal with that leg while pushing off with the unclipped side. Do that for a few 1/4-pedal (not completely all the way around , just partial) strokes with the clipped in leg until you get a bit of momentum, then clip in. Also get in your lowest or almost lowest gear before you stop pedaling.

If you are a bit unsure, get to a slightly inclined area and do some testing on your own or with only one riding buddy. Graduate to steeper starts as you become more familiar with how your body/bike reacts as the inclines increase.

Mike in AR:beer:

[austex]

Pedal a few strokes without clipping in the unclipped foot. Put a small piece of non-skid on the bottom of the pedal to help with grip (skateboard deck stuff).

[benb]

It's just practice. I've had to do it at up to 20% when I was under geared for mountain climbs. Dominant leg at 1-2 o'clock, check the other pedal to make sure it's oriented upside down when it's in the 7-8 o'clock position, push and go.

Doing 1 leg pedal drills helps too as you get used to riding with one foot.

[Ronsonic]

Stop in a low gear, but not the lowest.

It doesn't matter where your pedals are when you stop. When you start, begin with one foot at 2 o'clock. Drive that one down, standing on it, and when the other pedal come up to top clip in and push down in one smooth motion. :eek:

Okay, it might not be all that smooth the first try. But if you miss you can carefully mash down unclipped with your heel far enough to pull the clipped pedal around to try again.

The reason to use a stiffer starting gear is so that initial pedal push gets you enough momentum to give you time to clip the other. And yes do stand for this. Gives your unclipped foot a better angle on the pedal and more flexibility to find it.

The bit to practice is nailing the clip in. Eventually it becomes instinctive and deft. Eventually.

[Dead Man]

You could switch to mtb with rubber-soled shoes.. You can pedal pretty much indefinitely without being clipped it without fear of slipping off.

Otherwise, as everyone has said.... One-leg pedal, or just pedal carefully till you're in. I know SPDSL was a real PITA for me to learn to stop and start on, but I got used to it in a month or so. Now I generally snap right in place first placement on the pedal. You'll get it eventually... Practice practice.

[Splash]

Thanks Guys.

good advice.




Splash

[zank]

I cannot stay stationary whilst clipped in and have no intention of learning this strategy.


You should learn to track stand. There is no reason not to and it can come in handy in different situations. It's easiest to do on a climb. Learn in your sneakers and progress from there.

[carpediemracing]

To clip in there are two key things to remember:
1. Do NOT push off with the foot on the ground. Push down with the foot in the pedal. Your clipped in foot has a pretty reliable coefficient of friction, i.e. it's not going to slip, and it'll get you going much further than a skateboard type foot push. The foot on the ground could slip whenever especially with road cleats, plus it won't get you moving as quickly or as far.
2. Do not use your lowest gear by default, unless it's not very low. You'll "spin out" the gear too quickly and make it hard to clip in the other foot.k

Track stands will take many people about 10-15 minutes to learn shakily, maybe 30-60 minutes to be pretty fluent. I'm basing this on teaching others how to track stand. I can go into road specific track stands if you want. They are different from actual track stands. You do not need to be able to balance a bike any more than you need to balance the bike to ride it. The same principles that you use to keep your bike upright when you're riding are the exact same principles necessary to keep the bike upright for a road type track stand.

For the record I'm about as klutzy as can be but I can track stand on the road. Done right it takes very little effort on a flattish road, a slight bit of muscular effort on a hill. Tons of effort on a downhill.

[Louis]

Done right it takes very little effort on a flattish road, a slight bit of muscular effort on a hill. Tons of effort on a downhill.

I can't track-stand but I'm pretty sure that in terms of skill required to do it, it's easier on a hill than on a perfectly flat surface because you can use gravity to "push" against and rock back and forth over a short distance. At least I think I've read that somewhere.

[ckamp]

Practice.

The only way I have been able to do it over the years is by riding a regular route that requires a dismount and clip in on a steep. I was terrible at the start!

Stay relaxed in your arms and shoulders.

Use dominate leg first, for better balance.

Push off and balance with dominate leg to 6 o clock. (Use a middle gear to balance, the gear that can support your body smoothly with a one leg push off)

With little momentum, Lift up that other foot, Get clipped in on first attempt :).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[m_sasso]

If it is so easy to "Track Stand" why do some of the best track cyclists in the world fail at it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVQNlyYXqjg
30 to 60 minutes may be inspirational however realistically is a gross under estimation to practice in the street over concrete.

[Steve in SLO]

If you know any of the cyclists well, you can ask if you can put your hand on their saddle or shoulder to steady yourself after they stop at the light. That way you stay clipped in.

[Joxster]

Find a flatter route, problem solved :p

Practice seated accelerations

[Tandem Rider]

I have this same situation every time I ride from my front door. The real issue is clipping in on the first crank revolution. Relax. Sit on the seat with one toe on the ground and the other clipped in at about 10:30 or 11:00. Relax. Push down smoothly with the clipped in foot when the light turns green and smoothly clip the other foot in. Just ride away.

It helps a lot if you practice clipping in like this on flat ground by stopping at every stoplight or stop sign. :cool:

Just like every other skill, it just takes practice.

[oldpotatoe]

This is a barrier for me at the moment, and hurts me to see any riders I have been riding with ride off without me after being stopped at traffic lights...

Can you provide your tips and recommendations to master this art, including answers to the following:


How should i set the bike up immediately before I unclip as I approach a stop (gearing, pedal position, etc.)?

How should I prepare to clip in just before I want to clip in?

How should i clip in when ready to go?

What should i inspect before I start riding (cleat adjustments, pedal position at rest, etc.)?

What balancing technique should i employ?




I have Look KEO Pedals.

There are no posts to hang onto either.

I cannot stay stationary whilst clipped in and have no intention of learning this strategy.



Splash

Set the bike up with Speedplay pedals..2 sided, 'step on a bug entry'..bob's yer uncle.

[CNY rider]

Two sided pedals, absolutely.
My ride home from work requires me to stop at the top of a very steep driveway with limited visibility around a curve.
I have no choice but to stop, unclip my left foot and look then proceed up a steep incline while turning left.
I use two sided Shimano MTB pedals, and the first few strokes I am just pedaling with my left foot mashing the pedal down, usually unclipped. Much easier.

[Climb01742]

In addition to the suggestions here, one more: if you can (if traffic permits) you can start sideways, meaning go across the road, rather than up it, until you're clipped in, then turn upward. When I did Mt. Washington and twice was blown off my bike, this trick was invaluable. Thing was, on Mt. Washington, you'd better clip in fast because off the other side of the road was a straight drop off. Going sideways to go up works well.

[smontanaro]

I always start with my clipped in foot just starting to push on the downstroke. When the other pedal is on the way up, hit it. Its really just muscle memory. Takes practice.

+1. Good practice is an urban fixed gear commute. Lots of opportunities to start and stop, and you have a moving target to boot. :D

While most people have a dominant leg, I think it pays to practice starting with both legs. Aside from improving your ability with both legs, you will even out the wear on the plastic cleats. Never push off with the unclipped foot! You'll just wear out the cleat that much faster. Only ever use the clipped in leg to start up.

[kramnnim]

Never push off with the unclipped foot! You'll just wear out the cleat that much faster. Only ever use the clipped in leg to start up.

Another plus for Speedplay...

[shovelhd]

All good advice here. Don't use the lowest gear. Practice. Don't stop pedaling, spin around again unclipped and try again. I'd add, don't look down. Keep looking ahead and where you are going. If you stare at the pedal you could stall out. Also, I don't know about Look Keos but Speedplays like lube and clip in much easier with it. Practice.

[Tandem Rider]

I use Looks, no issues if you practice. Like Shovel said, don't look down. Practice until you can do it every time. Start with your butt on the seat, not the top tube.

[Splash]

Thanks Guys.

OP - What is a 'bug entry'?

Splash

[zank]

Stomp and move your heel side to side.

[Cicli]

Another plus for Speedplay...

Yeah, its impossible to do anything but ride with those cleats.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks Guys.

OP - What is a 'bug entry'?

Splash

'Step on a bug', center cleat, push down. Springs at both ends of the cleat(like Speedplay and MTB pedals)..not toe in/heel down, type(look, shimano)..easier.

For right above..yup, road cleats are for 'riding', not walking. At least SP metal plate, not just some plastic that gets worn, right now.

[soulspinner]

You should learn to track stand. There is no reason not to and it can come in handy in different situations. It's easiest to do on a climb. Learn in your sneakers and progress from there.

This is what I do. Living in a city with lots of lights to get out of I got good at it.

[carpediemracing]

Another tip, from when I had to learn how to clip in under pressure (i.e. at the start of a race): unclip whenever you stop. I had problems clipping in because I wanted to do a track stand instead. Problem was at races I had problems clipping in. A couple days of unclipping every time I had to stop helped solve that.

Also to accelerate muscle memory / practice /etc you should clip/unclip while in a low stress environment, i.e. leaning against a wall. I tell people 20 clip-ins in a row without messing up and you're good. I honestly don't remember how many I consider to be okay myself but 15-20 is about right.

[Lewis Moon]

Set the bike up with Speedplay pedals..2 sided, 'step on a bug entry'..bob's yer uncle.

I completely agree. Speedplay pedals have spoiled me. I've ridden them since the early 90s and every time I try something else, I end up back on speedplays. The ultra easy clip-in is one of the main reasons.

[carpediemracing]

If it is so easy to "Track Stand" why do some of the best track cyclists in the world fail at it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVQNlyYXqjg
30 to 60 minutes may be inspirational however realistically is a gross under estimation to practice in the street over concrete.

Remember, a road track stand is much easier than a track track stand. Also, for people who drive on the right side of the road, and for people who are right legged, roads are much easier.

Why?

Track bikes have one gear, and it's usually quite big. That track stand "competition" was a "trackstand and then sprint" so the riders had to balance what gear they could accelerate and sprint vs what gear they could track stand (and this is why the riders went right up to the line so they'd get a good spot for the sprint part of the race). Finally, and you could see this, the riders not interested in doing this event just didn't do it.

Tracks also have a pretty aggressive slope, a bigger gear, and track bikes require slightly different technique due to their fixed gear.

On a road bike, on a regular road (drive on right side, car steering wheels are on left side), with a normal amount of road crown, on the shoulder (right side of road), with a lower-than-a-track-racing-gear, it's pretty straightforward to do a track stand.

The fastest I've seen riders learn to do trackstands is about 5 minutes, but one of them was doing no handed trackstands about 30 minutes later, which I can't do. 8-10 minutes is about right for many people, and 30 minutes for really timid riders. There are a couple things that you want to be able to do on a bike that is counterintuitive to riding a bike and doing trackstands involve one of them.

Track stands are not just balancing, and in fact if you can ride a bike you can trackstand. Bikes balance while riding because there is forward motion and the ability to steer (to steer into falls). When you ride you microsteer into falls all the time. You can see this with little kids when they're wobbling around, or even adults who are learning to ride.

So bikes balance because they're in motion and they can be steered. With a trackstand the bike is in motion and it can be steered. You can balance indefinitely depending on muscular endurance (because you have to use your muscles a bit) and mental focus/concentration.

The trick is that you have to learn how to let the bike roll backwards. It is really the only thing you have to learn. The rest of it all bike riders already know.

With a road bike, with nice low gears, you can use the crown of the road as your hill. It reduces muscular load, it emphasizes subtlety/smoothness, and it's generally available everywhere.

Of course that's probably not where you want to learn, side of the road with cars flying past. When I learned I did it in a parking lot that had a slight slope.

1. Put it in about a 39x21 or 39x23, roll to a stop with your front wheel pointed a bit uphill, dominant leg forward (usually right one, which works with turning wheel to the left so it's pointing uphill on a regular road's crown). Keep your fingers on your brakes. Most people find it easier to start the learning process while standing.

2. Let the bike roll back a bit, a few inches, using the slight uphill to push you back. Keep the cassette/freewheel engaged so that your pedals rotate backward with the wheels. Keep your fingers lightly on the brakes.

3. When you think you're losing balance, i.e. immediately when you're starting, pedal forward to maintain balance. You need to be strong enough to accelerate forward in your chosen gear. If you chose a gear that's too high then select a lower one. If it's too low you'll go forward too easily, almost doing a wheelie. Reduce power or select a higher gear.

Repeat 1-3 until you can stop, roll back a bit, then roll out of the backward stuff by going forward. Should be 5-10 times generally speaking. Generally you'll dab a few times.

You don't want to have your pedals go back more than about 2 hours on the 12 hour clock face, so maybe from 3 o'clock to 1 o'clock. You don't want your pedals to approach 12 o'clock because you lose ability to roll out of the stop. You don't want to drop the pedal down to 6 o'clock because it's hard to let the bike to roll the pedals backward.

4. Now when you roll out of the stop you want to stop the bike from rolling forward. You know how your fingers were on the brakes? Apply them as soon as you start rolling forward and try to stop the bike again.

Repeat 1-4 until you can stop less than a foot away from your initial stopping point.

5. Reduce applied power on roll out so you don't move forward as far. You should be able to reduce it to 4-6 inches pretty quickly. Practice minimizing the roll out distance.

When you can roll backward as far as your roll out distance you're doing a trackstand. At first it might be 3-5" forward/backward. That's okay. I believe a trackstand on the track is okay as long as you don't go backward more than a foot.

Addendum

Remember that you have to roll the bike backward in order to do a trackstand, otherwise you have to learn how to balance on a stationary bike. Not many people can do that, but many people can balance on a moving bike.

For steep uphills it takes much more muscular power to roll out of the stop. However you can usually do a close to zero movement trackstand because of the hill.

On flatter but still uphill roads (crown of road, slight uphill), it's an ideal combination of low muscular requirements while still letting the bike go backward under gravity's power. I've waited 2-3 minutes at lights in situations like this.

The trick is on downhills because now the bike won't go backward on its own. Our driveway is probably 12-14% (if the hill leading away from the house really is 10.5% per Strava). It's very steep, basically unwalkable if it's covered in snow (you have to crawl up the hill). It's very, very, very hard to do a trackstand while going down the driveway. Basically you have to jerk the bike backward, rather than letting gravity do it. The more you weigh and the less the bike weighs the better. If you are 160 lbs and your bike 16 lbs then if you move your bike back 6" your body goes forward 0.6" (1/10th). If you're 160 lbs and your bike is 32 lbs then to move your bike back 6" means you move forward 1.2" (1/5th). It's hard to move a heavy bike back, and it's easier maintaining balance if you're significantly heavier than the bike.

For downhill trackstands you have to have good brakes, you have to be strong enough to hold said brakes shut, and you have to be able to jerk the bike back.

[Climb01742]

In the category of 'we're all different', during the years I rode Speedplays, there were many things I really liked about them but...clipping in wasn't one of them. I found them really hard to get right, to get my shoe cleat circle positioned correctly over the pedal lollypop.

I've ridden Shimano pedals now for years and find them sooooooooo much easier to align and clip in. Not saying one's better/worse...just funny how we each find different things easy/hard.

[Mark McM]

In MTB riding, its not uncommon to have to stop while going up a steep grade (say, if the rear wheel spins out, or the front wheel skips out). Here's a trick I picked up for starting back up on the steep grade:

As we all know, it can be difficult to balance a bike when it is moving very slowly (as when first starting out on a steep grade). So, wouldn't it be nice if the bike already had a little forward speed when you started pedaling? Well, it can - here's how. As you straddle the bike, with one foot on the ground and the other clipped in, rolling the bike backward, so you are standing well forward over the bike. Rotate the cranks so that your clipped in pedal is at the top of its stroke - this foot should now be a little behind your center of mass. To get started, first give the bike a forward push to roll it forward underneath you. As the clipped in pedal come directly underneath you (it should now be on the downstroke), stand on the clipped in pedal and lift the other foot off the ground. Continue moving the bike forward underneath and you sink onto the saddle, and at the same time get your unclipped in foot onto its pedal and clipped in. While some of the techniques have recommended being in a slightly higher gear, this technique works in a low gear.

[chiasticon]

I ride my cross bike with mtb (double sided entry) pedals from august thru april-ish and at lights/stops I practice clipping in and sprinting quickly during that time (in order to practice this for races). then when I'm back on road pedals (spdsl), I suck at clipping in and look like a total noob for a month or so. but, it gets better. practice, practice, practice.

so yeah...dual sided entry will help but practicing will do just as well if you don't wanna buy new pedals. also don't go lowest gear (well, unless the hill really is THAT steep). basically just drop down a couple gears from what you were pedaling before the stop. so either a couple in the rear or just go big ring to little.

put practice is the main thing. do it before it happens out with your buddies. find a steep slope thats secluded and work on it. I don't just show up to a cross race and hope to dismount, run over the barriers and quickly remount; I spend hours at the park every week practicing it (and other skills).

[macaroon]

It depends on the steepness of the incline. I had to set off on a 25% hill yesterday; best to traverse the hill as you're setting off rather than go straight up. Also best to put in a couple of crank strokes with only the one foot clipped in, just to give you a bit of momentum before clipping the other foot in.

[djg21]

Yeah, its impossible to do anything but ride with those cleats.

I've never had in issue in the 20 years I've used Speedplay road pedals. I can walk just fine with them to my bike in the garage, and in the occasional convenience store to use a restroom or fill my bottles. Granted, they aren't designed for hiking and aren't optimal for walking; but I don't regularly walk on my shoes when I go out for a bike ride. Keep on Kovers do make them much more walkable.

[Splash]

Thanks People.

Lots to practice on and different tips to consider...

Do riders perform track stands when stopped in groups/bunches?


Splash

[holliscx]

You don't have to be clipped in to start forward motion. There's a 1-2 second delay where you either a) clip in or b) put your foot down and try over. So when you push down it's ok if your foot's not clipped in to start but rather you click in as you know you got it. Also try to start out sideways vs up to negate the gradient if it's steep.

[rustychisel]

Thanks People.

Lots to practice on and different tips to consider...

Do riders perform track stands when stopped in groups/bunches?


Splash

Some do, but they're the wankers who topple sideways and take out the paceline when they're stopped at the traffic lights. Seriously, I've seen it happen more times than I care to remember.

Clipping in, it's just something learned, like using clips n straps in the old days. Learn where the pedal is, face up or face down, and what you need to do position-wise to clip in quickly. Push off with the opposing leg at the 2 o'clock position and get clipped in in that first [slowish] revolution. Sure, it takes practise. Come out with me sometime and I'll show you how.

[eippo1]

Everyone has already commented on trackstands etc, but one more thing that will help with confidence on getting going in general would be to do some cyclocross dismounts and remounts while running on grass or something. Obviously a bit harder to do with road shoes, but maybe try it in sneakers. Works wonders with learning how to handle your bike when you're not on it and getting back up to speed quickly.

[berserk87]

In addition to the suggestions here, one more: if you can (if traffic permits) you can start sideways, meaning go across the road, rather than up it, until you're clipped in, then turn upward. When I did Mt. Washington and twice was blown off my bike, this trick was invaluable. Thing was, on Mt. Washington, you'd better clip in fast because off the other side of the road was a straight drop off. Going sideways to go up works well.

I had to search to see if someone responded with a post like this before I did. You beat me to it.

If feasible, finding an angle on the climb that is less than straight up can help (i.e. tacking sideways a bit like a sailboat to clip in on a grade less steep by the angle).

[vqdriver]

most of us are right leg dominant and so will unclip the left foot and lean on that leg. I actually think it's much easier to unclip the right foot just so you can rest it on the curb instead of ground level. especially on steep inclines, the distance from ground to saddle is exaggerated making for awkward starts. rest your right foot on the curb with your butt on the top tube (not saddle). you may get less power off the light with your left leg doing the one pedal drill thing, but it's far easier to find and clip your dominate foot. at least for me.

[11.4]

Seriously, if it's a steep uphill and you aren't going to achieve a couple seconds of stable forward mnomentum before you tip, most of these methods don't really work. Going sideways ... I used to live on Bainbridge Island at the top of Baker Hill and watched countless riders stopping during the Chilly Hilly and trying to restart. The sideways-traversers were the ones who would suddenly pop into your lane as you were driving down the hill in the opposing lane. It's a good way to prove Darwin correct, plus you have to make practically a right angle turn to go uphill and scrub all your speed again. And you cause with other riders as well (I simply stopped riding on Chilly Hilly days because I'd have riders weaving and bobbing all over the place in front of me. Track stands don't work if you are simply being overwhelmed by a hill and had to put a foot down. And if you don't have the gears and are on a nasty uphill, it's hard to get a running cross mount going and very embarrassing and painful if it fails.

Best solution is to find a driveway and launch from there, obviously making sure you're not launching into somebody's radiator grille.

If you don't have the gears to get started on a hill in a sane way (and who does, if it's a really nasty hill?), sometimes you can't even keep from rolling backwards before you can get headed forwards. It becomes more a matter of balance than of speed. So while a track stand doesn't really help with that (your front wheel is turned for it), do practice very slow riding in a straight line -- in other words, to be able to balance at 1.5 or 2 mph in a straight line. If you can do that, it takes the pressure off your ability to accelerate or to clip in fast enough.

And PS: This is like calling out your friend's girlfriend for a walk of shame. These are so embarrassing you just don't talk about them. That's the only right thing to do.

[false_Aest]

I'm just gonna echo 11.4 and add if it's that steep why don't you just go downhill to start.

There's a nasty section around here that's about 18% -- I had to stop on it once. It was easier to go downhill, clip in, turn around, than it was to try to clip in uphill.

[berserk87]

Seriously, if it's a steep uphill and you aren't going to achieve a couple seconds of stable forward mnomentum before you tip, most of these methods don't really work. Going sideways ... I used to live on Bainbridge Island at the top of Baker Hill and watched countless riders stopping during the Chilly Hilly and trying to restart. The sideways-traversers were the ones who would suddenly pop into your lane as you were driving down the hill in the opposing lane. It's a good way to prove Darwin correct, plus you have to make practically a right angle turn to go uphill and scrub all your speed again. And you cause with other riders as well (I simply stopped riding on Chilly Hilly days because I'd have riders weaving and bobbing all over the place in front of me.

I must be sniffing too much glue - maybe I hallucinated all of the times I have effectively used the sideways tacking thing. It works BUT when feasible, as I noted - in heavy traffic it would not be safe. If you risk killing yourself trying it, then it is not going to work. I've seen plenty of pros do it races when they have had a flat or mechanical. I doubt guys who cycle for a living would try this if it did not work. The only distance you are traveling sideways is a bike length or two.

[11.4]

If you risk killing yourself trying it, then it is not going to work.

Wisdom.

[rustychisel]

Wisdom.

word :beer:

[unterhausen]

my new sig, "If I give advice, and your interpretation is that I am recommending killing yourself, then you didn't understand me. Unless I specifically advised killing yourself"

[mg2ride]

4 pages on how to clip in.

Where is Swoop when we need him most?

[Waldo]

If all else fails, switch to double-sided pedals -- Speedplay, etc.

[cnighbor1]

Clipping in on steel inclines
If it apparent I wouldn't be able to clip in and traffic is light I turn down hill a bit applying brakes and clipping that do a u turn and head up
changing gears has I go down if a better gear is needed to climb

[carpediemracing]

Thanks People.

Lots to practice on and different tips to consider...

Do riders perform track stands when stopped in groups/bunches?

Splash

I don't do many group rides anymore but I'd trackstand all the time when I did them. And no I didn't knock anyone over. I think knocking others over would be bad form.