Steerer Tube Cable Hanger Alternatives?

[cachagua]

Engleheart fork, 1-1/8 steerer, cantilever brake, can't think of a good place to put the cable hanger. Bought one that fits around the steerer tube, but it hits the top cup of the headset. Okay, put a spacer under it. Only, my stem's already going to be as high as I can stand. Ideas so far:

--> Find a stem with a pulley or noodle attached to its underside. This includes getting someone to fabricate one for me. Don't like this option very well.

--> Use a mini-V or other brake that doesn't route the cable that way. Need a different lever too. And then I'd have to put the matching lever on the other side, and the same brake in the back, and worst of all, have to think of something to do with the classy and eminently worth-using NOS Suntour XC-Pro cantilevers. Don't like this any better than the first.

--> Drill the fork crown and mount the cable hanger there. The back side is already reinforced, drilled and threaded, so at a minimum I'd have to source a long enough tap to be able to thread the front in phase. And I kinda don't want to violate the otherwise pristine fork, anyway. Death-by-faceplant doesn't appeal to me, however remote the likelihood is.

So, any other possibilities?

[bicycletricycle]

find a different hanger that clears the headset?

[Joxster]

Drill a hole in the stem, like the old days :eek:

[bicycletricycle]

old WTB style hangers were totally flat. A few people have re made them over the years.

[batman1425]

If it is the angle of the bend that is making it the top of the headset cap, just bend it out a bit (provided it isn't aluminum). Otherwise the fork brake bridge mount is likely the cleanest option for traditional canti brakes. Probably won't be too much work to do, and relatively easy if you are handy, careful, and take your time.

[cadence90]

Engleheart fork, 1-1/8 steerer, cantilever brake, can't think of a good place to put the cable hanger. Bought one that fits around the steerer tube, but it hits the top cup of the headset. Okay, put a spacer under it. Only, my stem's already going to be as high as I can stand.

So, any other possibilities?
Too bad the Igleheart fork isn't fully drilled. Have you asked him if he can do that?
I like the Tektro fork-mounted hanger over any steerer-/stem-mounted ones.

Otherwise, do you have on hand or perhaps trade for or buy/sell:
a) a similar rise/length stem with a shorter stack?
b) a headset with a shorter stack?

I switched out a King NTS for a tune Bobo and the stack difference is significant.
1 1/8" Chris King NoThreadSet total stack height = 31.4mm.
1 1/8" Cane Creek total stack height (10, 40, 110 series) = 28.0mm.
1 1/8" tune Bobo total stack height = 24.6mm.

1 1/8" Chris King NoThreadSet upper stack height = 17.7mm.
1 1/8" Cane Creek upper stack height (10, 40, 110 series) = 16.0mm.
1 1/8" tune Bobo upper stack height = 12.4mm.

[donevwil]

1697920916

[choke]

If you're not against doing a bit of work to make the hole larger this won't change the stem height much - http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Brake-Cable-Stop-Hanger-Center-Pull-Bike-Brakes-1-25-4-/172172609636?hash=item2816498864:g:QyQAAOSwd3dXFWo r

[PacNW2Ford]

Alex, I am pretty sure a Paul Funky Monkey will clear the upper headset cup. Unless that's what you've tried, of course.

[cachagua]

The one I tried was a Tektro, haven't seen the Paul -- I'll check it out. On further reflection, I think the tried and true headset-washer style is my favorite out of all these methods. It's funny to think, at other times in my life I would have drilled the fork without hesitating. Probably without taking it out of the frame, or hitting it with a center punch or anything -- just zzzzzzzzzAM! with the trusty Black & Decker. In fact I *did* drill a lot of things that should, by all rights, have pitched me right onto my face!

But, hey. I got the paint to think about, here! Yes, this is the magnificent Kish I'm struggling with, as you no doubt suspect.

Thanks, all, for the words of encouragement--

[cadence90]

Alex, I am pretty sure a Paul Funky Monkey will clear the upper headset cup. Unless that's what you've tried, of course.
That one should definitely clear a headset cup, and is available in black or silver.

"The front Funky Monkey features an extra-long arm that drops down to prevent brake cable housing from bending too tightly and binding up. The arm sticks out far enough to clear most headsets."

http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r654/traghetter/0013436_paul-components-funky-monkey-front-black_zpslnzrb7mh.jpeg (http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/traghetter/media/0013436_paul-components-funky-monkey-front-black_zpslnzrb7mh.jpeg.html)

Yes, this is the magnificent Kish I'm struggling with, as you no doubt suspect.

Thanks, all, for the words of encouragement--
But where are the pictures???

I recall years ago when I asked Jim about a steerer-mounted cable hanger, he recommended an IRD long drop. I don't know if they differ from the Tektro, but you might check that one out too. But the Paul should work if none of the fixed ones do.

[cachagua]

Well where ARE the pictures, then?! Same trouble I'm in with the other thing I just posted. I've got to get with the technology, here, c'mon it's the 20th century already.

[cadence90]

Well where ARE the pictures, then?! Same trouble I'm in with the other thing I just posted. I've got to get with the technology, here, c'mon it's the 20th century already.

Ha ha ha! :D

OK, I'll put together a new "how-to post images" thread (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?p=1983056#post1983056) with instructions for you, since I don't see one in my search.

[cachagua]

Note to Tom Ritchey: that headset's kinda cute. Make one with the cable hanger on the bottom cup, and you've got yourself a deal.

Note to Paul: okay, I'll buy a Funky Monkey. Jeez, come on, though -- $45?

Note to self: stopping -- it's expensive, but it's worth it in the long run.

[oldpotatoe]

Drill a hole in the stem, like the old days :eek:

I've done that with beefy threadless stems, even aluminum ones..ferrule sized hole top, wee hole bottom..and bob's yer uncle

[dsillito]

Drill a hole in the stem, like the old days :eek:

Thank god I'm not the only one to have done this... built up a Tomac-inspired drop-bar rigid MTB back in the day.

[cachagua]

I've done it too, drilled a beautiful 3ttt stem and rode the piss out of it for years. Miraculously, I still have front teeth! I think this was the same time I was riding my Lambert -- remember the famous cast-aluminum forks? The ones the CPSC made them take off the market? Yup. Rode with no rear brake, then, too -- it only makes you skid. Single chainring in front. Who needs the extra weight?

Have I mentioned I'm working on my autobiography? Haven't got too far yet. Actually all I have is the title. Gotta start somewhere, though, right? Anyway, I'm calling it "FOOL THAT I WAS"...

Naw. Seriously, there's aluminum things all over with holes in them. The stem in question is a Thomson Elite, the style with the internal pinch mechanism at the stem end. Do I want to drill it? The risks and benefits are hard to distinguish, in my mind, from the risks and benefits of drilling the fork.

Orrrrrrrr... maybe the fork wins. That cable flapping around above the stem, getting bent if I flip the bike over to change a tire? Plus, the fork's steel; if it developed a crack it'd propagate slower... ya hope.

I should write to Mr. Ingleheart and ask his advice.

[cadence90]

I should write to Mr. Ingleheart and ask his advice.
Yes.

(978) 626-1193
christopher@iglebike.com
.
.

[cachagua]

Thanks!

Got to ask him how to pronounce his name, too. Sheesh! Had it wrong all this time.

Maybe I should send him the fork, let him drill it, also reinforce it if he sees fit, and then, paint his classy logo on it!

Right, and maybe I should ride this bike by September, too.

[cadence90]

Thanks!

Got to ask him how to pronounce his name, too. Sheesh! Had it wrong all this time.

Maybe I should send him the fork, let him drill it, also reinforce it if he sees fit, and then, paint his classy logo on it!

Right, and maybe I should ride this bike by September, too.

I don't know where you live, but if Chris gives you the OK I would think any number of locals could do the drilling correctly, especially since your fork is already partially drilled.

However, I would definitely ask him first, because a cursory check for "Igleheart cantilever fork" on Google shows NONE that have the crown drilled all the way through (perhaps because of the segmented tubes, etc., I don't know). So, asking him would be my priority #1.

Yes, if you were to send it to him, he could do it 100% correctly, add anything else (e.g. eyelets) that you might want, paint, etc.

Afaik, his name is pronounced "Eagleheart".

[cachagua]

I'll be contacting him. Will report back here.

If he's okay with it being drilled, it'd be worth sending it to him... but if he's okay with someone else drilling it, hell, I'll drill it. But I'll see what he says.

[PacNW2Ford]

I don't know where you live, but if Chris gives you the OK I would think any number of locals could do the drilling correctly, especially since your fork is already partially drilled.

However, I would definitely ask him first, because a cursory check for "Igleheart cantilever fork" on Google shows NONE that have the crown drilled all the way through (perhaps because of the segmented tubes, etc., I don't know). So, asking him would be my priority #1.

Yes, if you were to send it to him, he could do it 100% correctly, add anything else (e.g. eyelets) that you might want, paint, etc.

Afaik, his name is pronounced "Eagleheart".

It's actually more like "Eye-gull-heart", hence the former "eye" logos... and I have an Igleheart segmented 650b cantilever fork with a drilled crown for a Nitto rack, don't know if he can retrofit Alex's fork, but he's a talented fabricator.

[cachagua]

I promised I'd report back here, so:

Emailed Igleheart, week and a half went by, no response, bought a Funky Monkey. If it jacks the stem up too high and I really can't stand it, there are a lot of other stems in the world.

[nooneline]

Another option is to hang a hanger from one of the stem bolts. There's the type pictured below, and Surly makes longer ones (intended for the rear, but, you know - can be re-purposed). The only 'issue' is that the cable goes down/back at a diagonal to the brake. No problem unless you hate how it looks.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3279/2918473607_9c2b23363e_z.jpg

If this is your problem you might also struggle with the cable routing go a steerer-mounted hanger, even if it's low stack and clears your headset. One thing I've done is put a v-brake noodle in the hangers, and route the cable/housing into that. Leads to good action and tight bends.

My preference would be a thin steerer-tube spacer that has a forward protrusion with a bolt through it so that one could mount one of those Surly hangers... but I'm not sure how to craft one. I've known a few people make big, deep hangers out of steel plate but I don't have the tools or inclination for that.

http://www.wigglestatic.com/images/surly-cable-hanger-zoom.jpg

[ColonelJLloyd]

I've done this. It worked well for me.

Drilling the stem is awesome. . . if you're using non-aero brakes.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7108/7512332816_4a9f453732_c.jpg

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7131/7512331868_9e8cdd61bd_c.jpg

[chiasticon]

have run the funky monkey with a king headset for a couple years now, works great!

another option: speedvagen/enve stem. expensive as f*ck, but nice! you might have to contact SV for one. last I checked they weren't on the website.

[cachagua]

Really, really like the stem-bolt hangers! I'd do any of those, except that the faceplate closes up pretty tight to the body of the stem. (26.0 Thomson stem, 26.0 Nitto bar, guess that's just the way they fit.)

How thick is the one in the first photo? I'd try that if there's room -- I get *maybe* a millimeter all the way around. I presume you don't want it tight, because then you're not really holding the bar with that bolt. But if it's loose, is it wearing as it moves over the bolt? Mmm, probably not meaningfully, like I could wear it through if I rode 50 miles of bumpy hills a day for a hundred years.

I do not mind the cable "leaning" out from the brake, and I don't think the brake will mind either. 175mm head tube, plus the space above the cantilevers, and 5 degree stem -- it won't lean that much.

Okay, where do I get one?

[MikeD]

Tektro has some nice ones on their website.

[Pastashop]

Whatever you do, I'd avoid sharp bends - the cable wears quickly and fails rather suddenly. Many of the designs above feature a rather sharp bend somewhere along the path. Inspect for wear regularly.

[cachagua]

Yes, that's been one of my objections to the Funky Monkey all along -- even as low as it hangs, it'll still put a fairly short-radius bend in the cable. I've got something like a v-brake noodle, a nice flexible one in fact, but all I can imagine it doing is bending into just about the same shape as the cable itself would.

Tektro also has the little rhinoceros-horn thing that pokes up from the fork crown. I dig the look of the housing curving downwards along the head tube better than the exposed cable, anyway. But, then I'm back to drilling the fork.

The fork -- look, that thing's a beast! No insignificant little perforation is going to make it explode out from under me. It's Friday night, I should have a couple of Scotches and just poke it! RrrrrRRRRRRRRRR!!

Damn, I'm out of Scotch.

[choke]

I've got something like a v-brake noodle, a nice flexible one in fact, but all I can imagine it doing is bending into just about the same shape as the cable itself would.A flexible noodle made a huge difference on my setup of a Funky Monkey and a -17° stem.

ETA:Check out the pic here (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1818887&postcount=13)

[cadence90]

cachagua, I was looking for a stem on Google images and came across this thing.

However, there are some limitations:
1. The stem has a stack height of 75mm, and the minimum insertion is 60mm, so you would need at least 60mm of steerer above your headset.
2. The stem angle is available only in -17°.
3. The available lengths are 80, 90, 100, 110mm.

If all those work then perhaps the Surly hanger that nooneline posted on page 2 would work with this stem?

From Velo-Orange (http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-tall-stack-threadless-stem-31-8-rise.html); comes in black or silver.

http://store.velo-orange.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/530x530/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/10.3_4_edited.jpg

http://www.wigglestatic.com/images/surly-cable-hanger-zoom.jpg

[ColonelJLloyd]

Compensating for the sharp bend is the reason for the alloy noodle in the hanger. Inside it the cable runs inside housing liner.

Pretty sure I bought the hanger in above photos from Velo Orange.