Look585
04-21-2016, 08:22 AM
This one is pretty easy. It was finding the part that was the hard part.
The 7700 hub is special in the DA evolution as it was the only one with a hubshell/FHB interface that worked with other lines of the era. If you killed a 7700 FHB and didn't want to spend the $$$ to buy the titanium replacement, you could use an Ultegra or 105 and suffer a bit of extra weight.
The RS11, RS21, RS31, and RS61 pre-built wheels used the same 10mm threaded axle and hub shell interface as 7700. You can buy the FHB and RH cone/locknut and graft it on. You need a 4mm spacer between the LH locknut and LH cone. You also drop the steel spacer that goes between the hub shell and FHB as the 11s FHB has a bit of a protuberance that stands "proud" from the FHB to nestle into the cavity now left vacant by the spacer.
NOTE: Cassette/spoke/rear mech inner cage plate clearance is pretty tight. I know this works with 11-28 and 11-32 cassettes; there might not be enough clearance for smaller range cassettes.
Part numbers:
FHB: Y49V98040 (complete with dustshield, FHB mounting bolt, and "spacer")
FHB: Y49V98050 (FHB only, you'll need a dust shield, but can reuse your mounting bolt)
Dust shield (if using Y49V98050): Y3CR08000
RH Locknut/cone: Y49V98020
Generic 4mm hub axle spacer.
SJS Cycles in the UK has the complete FHB and the RH locknut. Bikesomewhere and NiagraCycles in the US also list the parts.
These will be used to replace #5, 8/9, 16, and 13 in the picture below. 17, 7, and 6 are left out.
If you appreciate my effort in sorting out and describing the upgrade, I'll mail you a 4mm axle spacer for $5. I bought a bag of 20 from Wheelsmfg and only need 2. :)
1) Remove your 7700 axle, and use a 14mm hex to unmount the FHB.
2) Clean up your LH cup and the RH hubshell>FHB interface
3) Mount the new 11s FHB, leaving the steel spacer (part #17) off, to the hub shell. Crank down very hard on the mounting bolt, it needs to be tight.
4) Remove the RH cone/locknut from the axle and replace with the 11s RH cone/locknut. You need overhang of ~5-7mm.
5) Drop 9 ¼” steel ball bearings into the new FHB race, grease, and slide the axle in with the new RH cone/locknut.
6) 9 new ¼” bearings in the LH cup, thread on the existing LH cone, dump the old spacer (~6mm) and use a 4mm spacer, thread on the existing LH locknut.
7) Adjust bearings.
8) Re-dish wheel ~2mm.
9) Go ride.
A very enterprising person would chuck the new FHB in a lathe and machine down the “protuberance” by 1mm and keep the proper steel spacer/washer.
Disclaimer: This is not a Shimano approved modification and the parts are not compatible. The steel spacer you tossed in the garbage is likely an integral part of the system and your hub might be destroyed by premature wear of the hard steel FHB against the soft hub shell. Do this modification and you will probably die. Any injury to you or damage to your equipment sustained as a result of following these instructions is your fault for going outside the manufacturer's instructions.
The 7700 hub is special in the DA evolution as it was the only one with a hubshell/FHB interface that worked with other lines of the era. If you killed a 7700 FHB and didn't want to spend the $$$ to buy the titanium replacement, you could use an Ultegra or 105 and suffer a bit of extra weight.
The RS11, RS21, RS31, and RS61 pre-built wheels used the same 10mm threaded axle and hub shell interface as 7700. You can buy the FHB and RH cone/locknut and graft it on. You need a 4mm spacer between the LH locknut and LH cone. You also drop the steel spacer that goes between the hub shell and FHB as the 11s FHB has a bit of a protuberance that stands "proud" from the FHB to nestle into the cavity now left vacant by the spacer.
NOTE: Cassette/spoke/rear mech inner cage plate clearance is pretty tight. I know this works with 11-28 and 11-32 cassettes; there might not be enough clearance for smaller range cassettes.
Part numbers:
FHB: Y49V98040 (complete with dustshield, FHB mounting bolt, and "spacer")
FHB: Y49V98050 (FHB only, you'll need a dust shield, but can reuse your mounting bolt)
Dust shield (if using Y49V98050): Y3CR08000
RH Locknut/cone: Y49V98020
Generic 4mm hub axle spacer.
SJS Cycles in the UK has the complete FHB and the RH locknut. Bikesomewhere and NiagraCycles in the US also list the parts.
These will be used to replace #5, 8/9, 16, and 13 in the picture below. 17, 7, and 6 are left out.
If you appreciate my effort in sorting out and describing the upgrade, I'll mail you a 4mm axle spacer for $5. I bought a bag of 20 from Wheelsmfg and only need 2. :)
1) Remove your 7700 axle, and use a 14mm hex to unmount the FHB.
2) Clean up your LH cup and the RH hubshell>FHB interface
3) Mount the new 11s FHB, leaving the steel spacer (part #17) off, to the hub shell. Crank down very hard on the mounting bolt, it needs to be tight.
4) Remove the RH cone/locknut from the axle and replace with the 11s RH cone/locknut. You need overhang of ~5-7mm.
5) Drop 9 ¼” steel ball bearings into the new FHB race, grease, and slide the axle in with the new RH cone/locknut.
6) 9 new ¼” bearings in the LH cup, thread on the existing LH cone, dump the old spacer (~6mm) and use a 4mm spacer, thread on the existing LH locknut.
7) Adjust bearings.
8) Re-dish wheel ~2mm.
9) Go ride.
A very enterprising person would chuck the new FHB in a lathe and machine down the “protuberance” by 1mm and keep the proper steel spacer/washer.
Disclaimer: This is not a Shimano approved modification and the parts are not compatible. The steel spacer you tossed in the garbage is likely an integral part of the system and your hub might be destroyed by premature wear of the hard steel FHB against the soft hub shell. Do this modification and you will probably die. Any injury to you or damage to your equipment sustained as a result of following these instructions is your fault for going outside the manufacturer's instructions.