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gt eunuch
04-07-2016, 02:18 PM
Rims: WTB ChrisCross i19
Tires: Panaracer T-Serv 700x28 (max psi is listed on sidewall at 105psi)

I have set these up tubeless with gorilla tape and stans valves, using about 2oz of Stans in each tire. Each one was quite difficult to mount (as they are supposed to be?) and then seated fairly easily with a air compressor.

Got the rear setup, at 70 someodd psi both beads seated, and took it up to 85 or so and did the 'tubeless shake'. Everything sealed up quick, and I rode the bike like this for about 80 miles.

Finally got around to getting the front setup, same procedure, but took it up to 90psi this time and was rewarded with a giant POP and the garage was now covered in sealant. Try 2 resulted in the same exact disaster. Put a tube in, took it up to 100, no issues, so I left that in for a few days to get the new tire 'situated'. Try 3, tubeless again, same exact result. Threw a tube in and called it quits.

Last night I was getting my bike ready, and topped off air in both tires with a floor pump. Took the rear to 85, front to 80, and walked into the house. After the door shut I heard a familiar POP, and after closer inspection... my garage was again covered in Stans.

So, these wheels are 'Tubeless Compatable', the tires however are not listed as such (the internet seems to say otherwise). I have successfully setup tubeless on a few MTB at MUCH lower pressures, and have never had this issue.

Any way to get around this? I really wanted to try commuting on tubeless to help mitigate punctures and lighten things up a bit, but i'm thinking it is just not in the cards for this wheel/tire combo. Thoughts?

Vinci
04-07-2016, 02:23 PM
What is popping? Is the bead blowing off the rim? Is the tape failing?

sandyrs
04-07-2016, 02:24 PM
Rims: WTB ChrisCross i19
Tires: Panaracer T-Serv 700x28 (max psi is listed on sidewall at 105psi)

I have set these up tubeless with gorilla tape and stans valves, using about 2oz of Stans in each tire. Each one was quite difficult to mount (as they are supposed to be?) and then seated fairly easily with a air compressor.

Got the rear setup, at 70 someodd psi both beads seated, and took it up to 85 or so and did the 'tubeless shake'. Everything sealed up quick, and I rode the bike like this for about 80 miles.

Finally got around to getting the front setup, same procedure, but took it up to 90psi this time and was rewarded with a giant POP and the garage was now covered in sealant. Try 2 resulted in the same exact disaster. Put a tube in, took it up to 100, no issues, so I left that in for a few days to get the new tire 'situated'. Try 3, tubeless again, same exact result. Threw a tube in and called it quits.

Last night I was getting my bike ready, and topped off air in both tires with a floor pump. Took the rear to 85, front to 80, and walked into the house. After the door shut I heard a familiar POP, and after closer inspection... my garage was again covered in Stans.

So, these wheels are 'Tubeless Compatable', the tires however are not listed as such (the internet seems to say otherwise). I have successfully setup tubeless on a few MTB at MUCH lower pressures, and have never had this issue.

Any way to get around this? I really wanted to try commuting on tubeless to help mitigate punctures and lighten things up a bit, but i'm thinking it is just not in the cards for this wheel/tire combo. Thoughts?

Sounds like those tires aren't right for the application. Hutchinson Sectors are 28mm tubeless-compatible tough road tires if you're interested. Probably pricy for commuting though...

gt eunuch
04-07-2016, 02:26 PM
Sorry I wasn't clear what the popping was exactly.

It is BOTH beads simultaneously blowing off the rim, pic attached, ha.

p nut
04-07-2016, 02:29 PM
I don't know about WTB rims, but tubeless cross rims such as Stans state that Max PSI is 45.

http://www.notubes.com/Iron-Cross-Pro-Wheelset-P1339.aspx

Dave B
04-07-2016, 02:32 PM
What about airing up until you get yuour pop and then let air out until say 50psi. Give the rims, tires a chance to dry up from the soapy bath (assuming you do this part to help seat) and then let the stan's settle in...I suppose. Air up maybe a day later to desired psi and let sit until you feel comfortable riding them.

This before you get new stuff.

peanutgallery
04-07-2016, 02:34 PM
I have run ghetto tubeless on the atb forever with a similar combo and had no issues. I would never try it on the road, too much pressure and not enough hook in the bead

Stan's tape will make it easier to install and a TLR tire is much safer to to ride than a non TLR tire on a road application

doublenines
04-07-2016, 02:39 PM
I have successfully setup tubeless on a few MTB at MUCH lower pressures, and have never had this issue.





I run tubeless on 3 MTB 's and my roadbike, and found they're different.

MTB is easier and seems that a No Tubes design rim (have only used Stans and Spank) can handle any tire, whereas a road tubeless rim has to take a tubeless tire.

I'm running Fulcrum Racing 3's with Hutchison Fusions (will mount up Schwalbe Pro Ones soon) and never had an issue.

Here's a a good article previously posted in here somewhere:
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/29/why-isnt-road-tubeless-more-popular-part-two-current-options-challenges-whats-coming-down-the-road/

Mikej
04-07-2016, 03:07 PM
Be sure to run the tape past the bead.

Vinci
04-07-2016, 03:09 PM
Sorry I wasn't clear what the popping was exactly.

It is BOTH beads simultaneously blowing off the rim, pic attached, ha.
Wow...

I think that's a pretty solid warning about tubeless with that rim/tire combo for you. Lower pressure might hold, but could you be sure it wouldn't blow off after a pothole?

If you don't want to spend any more on the setup, just throw some tubes in there and call it done. You can even put some Stans in the tubes to get some of the sealing effect.

gt eunuch
04-07-2016, 03:10 PM
Wow...

I think that's a pretty solid warning about tubeless with that rim/tire combo for you. Lower pressure might hold, but could you be sure it wouldn't blow off after a pothole?

If you don't want to spend any more on the setup, just throw some tubes in there and call it done. You can even put some Stans in the tubes to get some of the sealing effect.

I agree 10000000% and this is what I have already done (sans Stans in the tubes), just wanted some opinions for future endeavors.

myette10
04-07-2016, 03:13 PM
Sorry I wasn't clear what the popping was exactly.

It is BOTH beads simultaneously blowing off the rim, pic attached, ha.

holy **** what a mess

Vinci
04-07-2016, 03:17 PM
I agree 10000000% and this is what I have already done (sans Stans in the tubes), just wanted some opinions for future endeavors.
I think the best bet is tubeless tires with tubeless rims for the future.

As I understand, MTB rims/tires are a lot more forgiving to "creative" tubeless configurations. Road setups are just a lot more picky due to the pressure.

justaute
04-07-2016, 03:41 PM
FWIW...not all Stan's rims can handle road-level PSI. Only the Grail and maybe one other model can do it.

I run tubeless on 3 MTB 's and my roadbike, and found they're different.

MTB is easier and seems that a No Tubes design rim (have only used Stans and Spank) can handle any tire, whereas a road tubeless rim has to take a tubeless tire.

I'm running Fulcrum Racing 3's with Hutchison Fusions (will mount up Schwalbe Pro Ones soon) and never had an issue.

Here's a a good article previously posted in here somewhere:
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/29/why-isnt-road-tubeless-more-popular-part-two-current-options-challenges-whats-coming-down-the-road/

CAAD
04-07-2016, 03:45 PM
Way too much psi. Use soapy water on the bead to seat and don't go over 50psi. I use non tubeless tires and never exceed 40psi. I ride then around 28 on the trails.

Cicli
04-07-2016, 06:18 PM
The pressure on the bead is different from tubed to tubeless. You cant run a tire at that much pressure tubeless when it was not designed for it. Thats the result, they blow clean off the rim. Dosent matter the rim as much as the tire needs to have the right bead design.

KonaSS
04-07-2016, 06:58 PM
And, once a tire succombs to the fate of popping off a rim, often times the bead is tweaked enough that it is VERY likely to pop again.

Use only tubeless compatible tires for road use. You can ghetto some mtb and cross as pressures are much lower. I would not ghetto road tires.

gt eunuch
04-07-2016, 07:13 PM
And, once a tire succombs to the fate of popping off a rim, often times the bead is tweaked enough that it is VERY likely to pop again.

Use only tubeless compatible tires for road use. You can ghetto some mtb and cross as pressures are much lower. I would not ghetto road tires.

Now I guess the real question is, would you use a tire that has popped off tubeless, with a tube?

Vinci
04-07-2016, 07:48 PM
Unless the bead is damaged, I don't see why the tire wouldn't be usable. Tubeless tires use non-stretchable beads, which makes them difficult to mount, but is essential to them sealing. If the tire still mounts the same as before, I'd bet that the bead hasn't been damaged abs that it's still okay to use. If it mounts easy, the bead may be damaged.

doomridesout
04-07-2016, 11:03 PM
No such thing as ghetto road tubeless.

If it's not explicitly marked as tubeless at high pressures, you deal with a tubeless=toothless equivalency.