my freakin seatpost

[Fat Robert]

tell me this, wrenchmeisters

ritchey wcs seatpost. dial my saddle in. tighten the clamp with a t-handle. it tilts up when I ride. tighten it a little more. it tilts up when I ride. take it to the shop, tell them "torque down on this puppy so that it won't move." it moves. specfically, the nose moves up when I ride. I'm riding 11cm+ of drop. not a lot of "nose up room."

what is up with this thing? I don't want to snap my binder bolts or eff up my saddle rails. anybody recommend a 31.6 post with 20mm+ of setback that will not, will not, freaking move?

[obtuse]

tell me this, wrenchmeisters

ritchey wcs seatpost. dial my saddle in. tighten the clamp with a t-handle. it tilts back when I ride. tighten it a little more. it tilts up when I ride. take it to the shop, tell them "torque down on this puppy so that it won't move." it moves. specfically, the nose moves up when I ride. I'm riding 11cm+ of drop. not a lot of "nose up room."

what is up with this thing? I don't want to snap my binder bolts or eff up my saddle rails. anybody recommend a 31.6 post with 20mm+ of setback that will not, will not, freaking move?


it can only be one thing doc....

the nut on the seat is loose.


obtuse

[coylifut]

I crank mine down really, really hard. I've never snapped a bolt

[Fat Robert]

it can only be one thing doc....

the nut on the seat is loose.


obtuse


the nut on the seat is always loose

but

the True Value bubble level doesn't lie

[mike p]

Easton EC70 has at least 20mm and works great,all over e-bay cheap.

Mike

[Dave]

I can recommend several good 2-bolt models, but not all may be available in a 31.6. You might need to buy a different size and use a 31.6mm bushing.

The FSA K-force SB (25mm setback), the ITM Milennium and Selcof all have reliable 2-bolt clamps. Thomson is good too, but even the bent setback model only has about 15mm of setback.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=45&pid=422

http://www.redroseimports.com/rri_selcof_sp3.html

http://txcyclesport.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=ITM-MSP-CB&Category_Code=SP_seatposts

[obtuse]

tell me this, wrenchmeisters

ritchey wcs seatpost. dial my saddle in. tighten the clamp with a t-handle. it tilts up when I ride. tighten it a little more. it tilts up when I ride. take it to the shop, tell them "torque down on this puppy so that it won't move." it moves. specfically, the nose moves up when I ride. I'm riding 11cm+ of drop. not a lot of "nose up room."

what is up with this thing? I don't want to snap my binder bolts or eff up my saddle rails. anybody recommend a 31.6 post with 20mm+ of setback that will not, will not, freaking move?

ok, i'll be obtusely serious.

get a record carbon post. fock it; i'll get you a record carbon post so you'll stop using that chinese garbage some corporate whore puts his name on....

obtuse

[Peter P.]

I had a single bolt Ritchey seatpost; it did the same thing yours is doing. The design is a P.O.S.

I have a friend with a Ritchey 2 bolt post; he's not complaining. I even e-mailed Ritchey about the problem. They insisted all I had to do was torque down on the bolt hard enough; if that didn't work they recommended I send the post back to them for examination. I didn't, because I had already butchered the post in an attempt to stop the slippage. I threw the post out; you should, too.

[Jiwa Jiwa]

get the newer ritchey wcs post with 2 bolts and serrated washer thingys. i have 3 and they are freakin locked. the 1-bolt design should've gotten somebody caned.

on the whole other side of the spectrum, i also have a wr compositi on one of my bikes-- that is one monster clamp, and your nose ain't going anywhere if you've seen the design.

[pdxmech13]

inanimate carbon rod

[shinomaster]

Doof...how big is your ***?

[stevep]

2 bolt seatpost.
you wont go back to some stupid idiot mech.

[Fat Robert]

it is a 2-bolt post

I'm wrenching it to the point where the saddle starts going sideways a little. I'll see if it moves again today...its not a lot...my sweet spot is where the back edge of the bubble is right on the backline on the level...after 4 hours the front edge of the bubble is right on the frontline of the level...that's small, but my buisness parner sure notices it....

[Bruce K]

I had a Ritchey 2-bolt post on my cross bike. Same problem.

I abandoned it after 3 rides.

I too think the design stinks.

I use the USE Alien Aluminum posts with the Cyclops (1 bolt) clamp and have great success though I know lots of people dislike the USE clamp as well.

BK

[Sandy]

it can only be one thing doc....

the nut on the seat is loose.


obtuse

Which nut? :) :)


Peanut Sandy

[CNY rider]

I've got a WCS single bolt post on my commuter bike and deal with the same issue all the time. I've cranked down as hard as this 145 pound mass of jello body of mine can crank down. It's just my commuter, so I've never gotten motivated enough to replace it.

OTOH I must admit I like the WCS stem and bars I have.

[chrisroph]

Mine work fine but sounds like you need to try something else. Maybe an overpriced italian one bolt plastic pos that won't let you micro adjust the tilt but use whatever works. :beer:

[Dave]

it is a 2-bolt post

I'm wrenching it to the point where the saddle starts going sideways a little. I'll see if it moves again today...its not a lot...my sweet spot is where the back edge of the bubble is right on the backline on the level...after 4 hours the front edge of the bubble is right on the frontline of the level...that's small, but my buisness parner sure notices it....

Aren't you talking about one bolt for each rail with the angle adjustment controlled by some type of serrated interface? The 2-bolt models that I suggest have one bolt in the front and one in the back to move the saddle nose up or down. Theses types should never suffer from angle movment.

Campy posts suck too. Lots of folks complain about stripped serrations.

[Fat Robert]

the ritchey interface isn't serrated...that's part of the problem imho

when somebody makes a good two-bolt (fore-aft bolts) post with 25mm of setback, I'll get it...

[woolly]

the ritchey interface isn't serrated...that's part of the problem imho

when somebody makes a good two-bolt (fore-aft bolts) post with 25mm of setback, I'll get it...

How 'bout this:
http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_seatposts.html

[BdaGhisallo]

The only option worth considering:

The mighty PMP post with two bolt clamp, available in steel, ti or carbon shafts and a multitude of diameters and lengths, and two setback options.

http://www.pmpbike.net/ing/prodotti_ing/seat.html

I believe a certain person. who talks in the third person, can help you get one.


You won't be disappointed!

[TimD]

I had the exact same problem. I rode it for a month and it drove me insane. I weigh 190, ride a 61-63 ST, and like to sit waaaay back on the hills.

I wrote to Ritchey asking for a torque spec, giving their seatpost clamp bolt torque spec (not much) as a reference. The reply was along the lines of "Oh, you can torque the saddle clamp bolts a lot more than that."

The reply was helpful, the content was not. Did this mean should I use the 6' torque wrench my Porsche mechanic uses to tighten 911 front hubs to 300 (three hundred) ft-lbs? The damn thing still slipped at 40 ft-lbs, rather A LOT considering the size of the bolts.

I considered using Loctite red or boiled linseed oil on the clamping surfaces but I gave up and instead put the Thomson Elite back in. End of problem.

[dave thompson]

How 'bout this:
http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_seatposts.html
I'll give a very strong second to the Salsa seatpost. Two independent adjustments, one for tilt and one for fore/aft. Fairly light and very strong, it's my favorite.

[shinomaster]

Get an old post on e-bay. I've been using an old, old Shimano 600 post on my Cannonball, because of the stetback. It works great. It's easy to adjust and hasn't slipped yet. I also use my old Chorus post from 1994. That post has NEVER slipped, plus it looks really cool and it it pretty light weight.

[gt6267a]

shinomaster - i had the record version of that post on my CRL. not sure how you make it stick, but mine slipped all the time. i put a thomson on and it's fantastic.

[Fixed]

bro call my bro shook he'll send you one .
cheers

[shinomaster]

I don't know...I only 144lbs?

[Dave]

the FSA K-force, the ITM millenium, Thomson or Selcof? The 2-bolt angle adjustment works great. All but the Thomson have adequate setback. If you need to push the saddle pretty far back, it's the location of the front of the clamp that's really important, not the center. The FSA and ITM/Selcof all have the front of the clamp about 5mm behind the centerline of the post. If that's not enough try the FSA model with 35mm of setback.

The problem with setback measurements using the center of the clamp as a reference, is that varying lengths of the seat rail clamp are not taken into consideration. Longer clamps (like Campy's) will have the front further forward.

[zap]

Robert, cut some serrations across the clamp interface area (top and bottom)with a hacksaw or Dremel. Not to deep, just enough for the two surfaces to grab.

Did this to a Look post and has never slipped since I made this mod.

[SoCalSteve]

the ritchey interface isn't serrated...that's part of the problem imho

when somebody makes a good two-bolt (fore-aft bolts) post with 25mm of setback, I'll get it...

FSA K-Force if you want carbon. FSA SL-220 if you want aluminum. End of discussion.

Good luck,

Steve

[sspielman]

I have one of these and find it to be great: http://www.dpmsports.com/prod11-components/06seatposts/phey/index.html

Like others have said, Selcof does a great job as well

[theprep]

A few weeks back, someone said the "perfect seatpost would be a Dura Ace in BLACK"

I just stumbled across this a little while ago:

Shimano SP R600 Seatpost

Lightweight design (250 grams)
Easy seat adjustment.
Length:330mm
Diameter:27.2mm

Specifications

Post Type Round
Outer Diameter 27.2mm
Length 330mm
One-bolt Clamp Yes
Easy Adjust Feature Yes
Pipe
Material/Finish Aluminum/
Anodized
Note : Black

The best part is - no stinken carbon.

[dgstringfield]

The IRD Cobra might fit your needs. <http://www.interlocracing.com/seatposts.html>

[Jeremy]

it is a 2-bolt post

I'm wrenching it to the point where the saddle starts going sideways a little. I'll see if it moves again today...its not a lot...my sweet spot is where the back edge of the bubble is right on the backline on the level...after 4 hours the front edge of the bubble is right on the frontline of the level...that's small, but my buisness parner sure notices it....


Make sure that the bolt threads and the underside of the bolt head are lubricated with a high quality grease. In my experience, Dupont Teflon bearing grease works the best. A dry bolt will cause a false torque reading (even if your "torque wrench" is feel). The exessive force required to tighten a dry bolt is a result of friction, not clamping force. I have had no problems with the newer Ritchey 2-bolt design.

Jeremy