View Full Version : Positive rise stem, slammed
Hi all,
getting a new frame and trying to determine size. I can go with
61cm w/stem: -6deg 110mm
58cm w/stem: +6deg 130mm
in both cases, the stem would be slammed (w/ ~8mm headset dust cap). I want the shorter wheelbase of the 58. I can always get a beefier stem if the extra length makes it too floppy. So my question is: how will the positive rise stem look? It's really hard to find pictures of a positive rise setup that is slammed. Anyone who has a slammed positive rise setup, can you share pics? Usually it looks terrible but that's partially because of 5cm of spacers underneath. FWIW the frame on this bike has a sloping top tube to the tune of ~10deg.
I gather it's pretty common on track bikes, particularly for sprinters (why is that?).
Hi all,
getting a new frame and trying to determine size. I can go with
61cm w/stem: -6deg 110mm
58cm w/stem: +6deg 130mm
in both cases, the stem would be slammed (w/ ~8mm headset dust cap). I want the shorter wheelbase of the 58. I can always get a beefier stem if the extra length makes it too floppy. So my question is: how will the positive rise stem look? It's really hard to find pictures of a positive rise setup that is slammed. Anyone who has a slammed positive rise setup, can you share pics? Usually it looks terrible but that's partially because of 5cm of spacers underneath. FWIW the frame on this bike has a sloping top tube to the tune of ~10deg.
I gather it's pretty common on track bikes, particularly for sprinters (why is that?).
Why not put 5mm spacers and a 0* stem? That would look fine.
With the 58.
Why not put 5mm spacers and a 0* stem? That would look fine.
With the 58.
1) not many zero deg stems out there
2) I'd actually need 1.3cm of spacers to make up that difference (2.1cm total with dust cap). So my quandary is whether rise from spacers or rise from stem angle is more aesthetically pleasing (I'm leaning towards the latter). Also, functionally, stem+spacers is less stiff than the perfectly sized stem.
azrider
03-03-2016, 09:42 AM
Soooo, you're basing what size frame you're going to get on stem aesthetics?
Got it.
Just get something custom you can slam.
Soooo, you're basing what size frame you're going to get on stem aesthetics?
Got it.
It's a factor, yes. Front-center is also a factor as is stiffness. I hope that won't be a problem for you.
nathanong87
03-03-2016, 09:48 AM
find a bearing cover that's bigger than one u got.
for example on specialized (well a while ago)..... they came with 8mm bearing covers. Other brand bearing covers came in 10, 15, and 25mm increment. Slam on a 25mm is still slam.
Thanks for the advice. I really just want pictures if you got em.
find a bearing cover that's bigger than one u got.
for example on specialized (well a while ago)..... they came with 8mm bearing covers. Other brand bearing covers came in 10, 15, and 25mm increment. Slam on a 25mm is still slam.
But be careful not to use more than 35mm. I think most mfg's caution against that.
I'll start. Here's a bike setup I used on a borrowed bike. Functionally I liked it (smaller frame felt very nimble). It looks a bit silly but then again it's maxed out at +17/140mm
(note that I couldn't use spacers in this case because the cables weren't long enough)
http://i.imgur.com/nwRCN0x.jpg
basically, I'd like more pics of similar setups. Thanks.
thegunner
03-03-2016, 10:02 AM
(note that I couldn't use spacers in this case because the cables weren't long enough)
if the bars are in the same position with spacers + a different angle, why would that affect the distance the cables had to route?
not hating, legitimately curious, seems like simple math would dictate it would work the same.
Muffin Man
03-03-2016, 10:03 AM
Holy moly that BMC is bad. I would rather get a smaller frame and then put spacers under a negative rise stem than slamming a positive rise stem, and I'm a huge fan of #slamthatstem
FlashUNC
03-03-2016, 10:03 AM
Since this thread is so weighted towards aesthetics and how it'll look, that BMC looks atrocious.
If the numbers work the numbers work, but you can't look for oddball fit figures AND get something that gets to the aesthetic ideal on bikes that come in a limited range of sizes.
Best of luck in the hunt, but if you want something that'll potentially meet your aesthetic and fit needs? Custom is probably the way to go.
christian
03-03-2016, 10:12 AM
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious. If you have to go that route, I suggest you wholly own it by making custom downtube decals: SLMBNR. People will think it's a hip, new Brooklyn bike brand.
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious. If you have to go that route, I suggest you wholly own it by making custom downtube decals: SLMBNR. People will think it's a hip, new Brooklyn bike brand.
Chapeaux.
velomateo
03-03-2016, 10:39 AM
There are several stem calculators I have found online. I like the one on ttbikefit.com. It Llows you to compare several deccerent stem lengths to determine your preferred reach and drop.
alembical
03-03-2016, 10:40 AM
Personal preference, obviously, but I just went through this exact same process and tried +/- 17, +/- 6, and a zero, with all options of spacers. Once you figure out where you want your bars, the rest is just cosmetic. For me, I ended up with a spacer underneath a zero degree. I am not a big fan of lots of spacers underneath and a - degree stem, nor I found out am I a fan of the slammed stem with rise.
I bought 4 stems, sold 3 and ended up financially in the same place while trying the different options. All bikes are different. I would think a level vs. sloping top tube, headtube length, length of stem and a lot more would factor into that personal cosmetic decision as well. I really like the look of the long slammed negative stems, but the fit is now much more important to me. I also personally like leaving a little steerer tube for options down the road if my flexibility or back start giving issues or a resell is necessary.
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 11:28 AM
YOu're looking for a slight positive rise stem that has little/no spacers underneath on a 58ish frame? Like this?
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2013/03/22/1363962427721-1c53khls97eha-500-70.jpg
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 11:30 AM
1) not many zero deg stems out there
2) I'd actually need 1.3cm of spacers to make up that difference (2.1cm total with dust cap). So my quandary is whether rise from spacers or rise from stem angle is more aesthetically pleasing (I'm leaning towards the latter). Also, functionally, stem+spacers is less stiff than the perfectly sized stem.
I think fewer/no spacers is better. Direct line from steerer to bars. Of course using a flexy direct line stem is not as good as a more rigid stem that requires spacers. blah blah blah. But in principle the direct line is better.
redir
03-03-2016, 11:40 AM
In the grand scheme of things a bicycle is for riding not looking at. But if you are troubled by the way it looks then you have offered two solutions. Solution a) a bike that looks like it fits you. Solution b) a bike that looks too small.
Old school racers like myself have always gone for the smaller frames and then stretch them out with the longer stem and post. That way you get a lighter stiffer frame. I got my Moots in accordance to that philosophy and it's been a great bike but now that I have a new C'Dale that is actually my size, and I'm older now, the proper size is simply the better way to go.
There is nothing wrong with having spacers under the stem.
bluto
03-03-2016, 11:46 AM
There is still an 8mm dust cap in play so stop saying slammed people......
This is slammed.
http://41.media.tumblr.com/501e312126038c842e1390abe558c617/tumblr_o2s7cmML3Z1qaythmo1_500.jpg
and this
http://www.pedalroom.com/p/2011-cannondale-caad10-5-4477_3.jpg
not this
http://i40.tinypic.com/2j2tdh5.jpg
OtayBW
03-03-2016, 11:48 AM
Wow - I tend to be a 'function over form' kind of guy when it comes to this stuff, but I sure can't say that I like the look of that stem on your BMC. 'Atrocious' is such a strong word (though perhaps not strong enough!:help:). Sorry for the negative feedback, and good luck with whatever you decide.
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 11:49 AM
I'll start. Here's a bike setup I used on a borrowed bike. Functionally I liked it (smaller frame felt very nimble)..
You should look at other things, more than just wheelbase. I've had some short wheelbase bikes that didn't feel responsive at all, due to funky headtube angles and such.
I have a very nimble bike that is something like 3 cm longer in the wheelbase than prior bikes. I can't measure my other bikes since I don't have them but based on the website (Cannondale SystemSix 2008) it was 96.8 cm.
Okay, I just measured. It's 101.3 cm, so 4.5 cm longer.
However it feels nimble because it has shorter chainstays, 39.3 cm vs 40.5 cm (I asked for "as short as possible", my other bike with 39.0 cm stays being my benchmark/goal; before the change the wheelbase was 102.5 cm). Both my bikes' front end was based on the SystemSix.
You're much taller than me, without being much longer in fit (I rode a 52 cm Cannondale or size S Giant TCR, currently my bike has a 40 cm ST with sloping top tube, my TT is 56.5, I run a -32 14.5 stem with compact bars), so your experience will probably be different.
I have noticed with taller riders with longer quads is that they end up way further back on the bike than me. Therefore the chainstay length (and how far out the back wheel is) will become significant in terms of weight distribution in ways I don't know about.
if the bars are in the same position with spacers + a different angle, why would that affect the distance the cables had to route?
borrowed bike. Limited selection of stems to work with.
YOu're looking for a slight positive rise stem that has little/no spacers underneath on a 58ish frame? Like this?
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2013/03/22/1363962427721-1c53khls97eha-500-70.jpg
that's still -6 or so isn't it? I'm talking about +6
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 11:56 AM
Remember that BMC was borrowed. OP is talking +/- 6 degrees.
I lent my bike out to a couple riders. Both of them turned my then -17 12cm stem upside down so it was a rise stem. Cable length for front brake was an issue for both of them. Both rode fine - one was a bike racer who managed to drop their original bike off the roof rack on the way to the race. Said bike racer won the race that day. I then re-converted the bike to my own specs, didn't do quite as well in my race 2 races later.
You should look at other things, more than just wheelbase. I've had some short wheelbase bikes that didn't feel responsive at all, due to funky headtube angles and such.
...
I have noticed with taller riders with longer quads is that they end up way further back on the bike than me. Therefore the chainstay length (and how far out the back wheel is) will become significant in terms of weight distribution in ways I don't know about.
well, in this case the chainstays are the same length regardless of the frame size. The only difference is front-center. So I'll be in the same place wrt the rear wheel but the front wheel will be closer or farther from my center of gravity. You're right that tall riders are usually too far over the back wheel for optimal handling, and I'm trying to rebalance the weight a little towards the front.
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 11:59 AM
that's still -6 or so isn't it? I'm talking about +6
Got it, +6 from head tube. My brain isn't working right now so I can't convert. 96 deg. Got it.
Mikej
03-03-2016, 12:00 PM
Only a -17 120 or longer can be slammed.
carpediemracing
03-03-2016, 12:17 PM
http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/photos/races06/tdf06/tdftech/bmc-landis2.jpg
Floyd Landis ran a pretty tall stem in his controversial Tour.
I think Bettini had some rise as well but I think he used spacers, not a rise stem.
The BH pro team* had some funky set ups, I think Christian VDV said he had a ridiculous set up at first due to I think all the head tubes being the same height? Something like that.
*edit Liberty Seguros
lhuerta
03-03-2016, 12:23 PM
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious.
...priceless visual description Christian :beer:
Aesthetically, what does everyone think of slammed 0 degree stems? I don't like the look of positive rise stems, but a 0 might be a good compromise.
Aesthetically, what does everyone think of slammed 0 degree stems? I don't like the look of positive rise stems, but a 0 might be a good compromise.
This is, imho, the money move in this situation, if op can swing it.
FlashUNC
03-03-2016, 12:34 PM
This is, imho, the money move in this situation, if op can swing it.
Yup, that's the way to go.
I used to have that setup, albeit with spacers (right after those bastards at spec shortened the HT).
http://i.imgur.com/sTUAN5P.jpg
I don't think it looked particularly bad or particularly good but the cockpit was way too flexy (partially because of spacers, or maybe because easton alloy pieces suck).
ANYWAY, I'm looking for pictures, not opinions, thanks. I am grateful for your input but I'm more grateful to carpediem for actually trying to provide pics. Floyd's bike doesn't look too awful to me and that's even got a flat TT.
I think I'm just gonna go full fred here and say eff the haters.:banana:
christian
03-03-2016, 12:45 PM
Aesthetically, what does everyone think of slammed 0 degree stems? I don't like the look of positive rise stems, but a 0 might be a good compromise. If the top tube slopes circa 17d, it is a very good look, because you get nice parallel lines. Other slopes get a little weirder. Definitely worth playing with, though. I think a good idea for the OP, if it can accommodate his fit.
british cycling applies lessons learned on the track to the road. Why can't I?
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2012/08/03/1344015037079-1m8g7dx1scdj1-700-80.jpg
beeatnik
03-03-2016, 12:55 PM
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/589/21311936479_34a12b4021_o.jpg
fuzzalow
03-03-2016, 01:02 PM
Hi all,
getting a new frame and trying to determine size. I can go with
61cm w/stem: -6deg 110mm
58cm w/stem: +6deg 130mm
in both cases, the stem would be slammed (w/ ~8mm headset dust cap). I want the shorter wheelbase of the 58.
As I see it, you are obviously a tall guy who likely has no reason to be riding a 58. Least of all with the somewhat dubious logic in a preference driven by the spec of the shorter wheelbase. The way you setup on the bike will have a far greater influence to the handling of the bike than the importance given to an isolated frame geometry spec. Whatever.
It is your bike and I understand the desire for the "racer bike" aesthetic but I would also point out that if you want a racier look it kinda falls flat if you struggle to accommodate into the bike rather than the setup of the bike made to accommodate you the rider.
Good luck with this. Nobody can really help that much with this IMO because you have to decide the tradeoffs based on how you think you can ride.
azrider
03-03-2016, 01:06 PM
british cycling applies lessons learned on the track to the road. Why can't I?
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2012/08/03/1344015037079-1m8g7dx1scdj1-700-80.jpg
I don't see an 8mm dust cap on there.......
azrider
03-03-2016, 01:08 PM
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious.
How does one make the above their signature?
pinoymamba
03-03-2016, 01:17 PM
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3833/11764387414_c794f9145c_b.jpg
it's beautiful depending on the application...
i'd go custom so you can slam...
http://a.fod4.com/misc/Trampoline%20Dunk%20Fail.gif
As I see it, you are obviously a tall guy who likely has no reason to be riding a 58. Least of all with the somewhat dubious logic in a preference driven by the spec of the shorter wheelbase. The way you setup on the bike will have a far greater influence to the handling of the bike than the importance given to an isolated frame geometry spec. Whatever.
It is your bike and I understand the desire for the "racer bike" aesthetic but I would also point out that if you want a racier look it kinda falls flat if you struggle to accommodate into the bike rather than the setup of the bike made to accommodate you the rider.
I don't think you read my post very thoroughly. :crap: My touch points (stack/reach) are going to be identical either way. If I wanted the racer aesthetic I'd go with the larger frame just so I could keep the stem flipped down. I can't tell if you're arguing for function or form here. It sounds like function. By all metrics I know of, the smaller frame with the unusual stem is more functional. The larger frame will just look more pro.
macaroon
03-03-2016, 01:22 PM
Slammed stems look awesome. A stem with a 5mm spacer under it looks awesome. I think you can get away with about 7-10mm of spacers before things start to look odd.
A -10 stem will look best as it'll match the top tube angle.
Positive rise stems look horrid to me.
A 0 degree stem also looks too much like a positive rise stem due to the angle of the steerer tube.
You could always try and adjust your fit to suit a slammed on a 58; moving the saddle forwards slightly might open up your hip angle a touch more enabling you to go lower in the front.
Personally, I'd go with a 58cm and get a taller headset cone spacer thing. They look ok with a slammed stem.
I'm beginning to question the adage that a picture is worth a thousand words. I think I'd trade 10,000 words for one picture at this point.
macaroon
03-03-2016, 01:26 PM
I don't think you read my post very thoroughly. :crap: My touch points (stack/reach) are going to be identical either way. If I wanted the racer aesthetic I'd go with the larger frame just so I could keep the stem flipped down. I can't tell if you're arguing for function or form here. It sounds like function. By all metrics I know of, the smaller frame with the unusual stem is more functional. The larger frame will just look more pro.
Fuzz certainly knows his stuff. I think there's quite a few on here that now ride slammed stems thanks to his help ;-)
A large frame with a short, slammed stem aesthetically doesn't look very "pro" since pros usually ride smaller frames/a frame that fits with a long stem. Some of them even use spacers!
Slammed 0* stem:
http://i.imgur.com/LcFi0.jpg
shovelhd
03-03-2016, 01:29 PM
The larger frame will just look more pro.
Didn't you just answer your own question?
azrider
03-03-2016, 01:31 PM
Didn't you just answer your own question?
But he's not going for aesthetics !!! :p
Didn't you just answer your own question?
Yes. But how much more pro? I'm asking for pictures to judge just how much I care.
ANAO: thanks. That looks not bad at all. But the angle of the pic/bike lean makes it hard to judge. Also it seems like the bars are rotated up to make up for too low of a stack. That's an aesthetic and a philosophy that I can't get behind.
But he's not going for aesthetics !!! :p
When did I say that? The entire point of this post is to determine sufficiently pleasing aesthetics. Why are you so angry? Maybe you should move to California.
fuzzalow
03-03-2016, 01:37 PM
I don't think you read my post very thoroughly. :crap: My touch points (stack/reach) are going to be identical either way. If I wanted the racer aesthetic I'd go with the larger frame just so I could keep the stem flipped down. I can't tell if you're arguing for function or form here. It sounds like function. By all metrics I know of, the smaller frame with the unusual stem is more functional. The larger frame will just look more pro.
No, there is nothing in your OP that says anything about your "touch points" being identical.
I do not seek to be argumentative with you on an issue of your own aesthetic preferences and the frame size/setup options therein.
To cut to the chase, if I may. You wanna a racy looking bike without the outward ability to adopt and ride in a racier form as concerns the visual of your body alignment. You may well be blindingly fast but you apparently don't fit the style mode of a Cancellara. Between this discord between how you ride and how you look only you can figure out the compromises needed to make you happy. Good luck with that.
You think you can drop yourself willy-nilly into any size frame and the shorter wheelbase spec will come through for you and keep you racy? Good luck with that too.
azrider
03-03-2016, 01:37 PM
When did I say that? The entire point of this post is to determine sufficiently pleasing aesthetics. Why are you so angry? Maybe you should move to California.
oh my bad....I thought in the earlier post you mentioned your mission was more form over function. Please continue....
Angry? Ha....I haven't been told I was angry in 10+ years....that's funny.
Hey my new signature works!!!!
FlashUNC
03-03-2016, 01:42 PM
http://static1.squarespace.com/static/51cdfc97e4b0d13e9248b3b7/t/533ae08be4b00b96d629ae41/1396367500100/
http://ianschon.com/assets/img/slam/Description/3sts.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Twl2PdS.jpg
No, there is nothing in your OP that says anything about your "touch points" being identical.
I do not seek to be argumentative with you on an issue of your own aesthetic preferences and the frame size/setup options therein.
I thought the touch points staying the same was evident from the stem figures. Sorry for assuming the reader would have a basic understanding of trigonometry. Really I just wanted pictures. I bolded that question. Nowhere did I ask for assessments of functionality. I trust my own experiences in that regard.
http://ergottwheels.smugmug.com/Sports/The-bikes/i-Dnfh8nw/0/XL/Spooky-89HD-XL.jpg
I thought the touch points staying the same was evident from the stem figures. Sorry for assuming the reader would have a basic understanding of trigonometry. Really I just wanted pictures. I bolded that question. Nowhere did I ask for assessments of functionality. I trust my own experiences in that regard.
:no::(:o:butt:
shovelhd
03-03-2016, 01:46 PM
How about a pic of a proper bike fit? Don't mind the wheels. I pulled it off the trainer to take this pic JUST FOR YOU. That's a 10mm top cap (stock) with a 130mm -17* stem.
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l453/shovelfl/bikeforums/Rotor_zpsa0bihm8d.jpg
http://40.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lydgwodqoH1qaythmo1_1280.jpg
Looks like 0* to me, and will probably yield an equally poor fit to what you're attempting.
beeatnik
03-03-2016, 01:51 PM
http://static1.squarespace.com/static/51cdfc97e4b0d13e9248b3b7/t/533ae08be4b00b96d629ae41/1396367500100/
http://ianschon.com/assets/img/slam/Description/3sts.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Twl2PdS.jpg
Flash, I like your pics of the day style.
sandyrs
03-03-2016, 01:51 PM
Here is a 0* stem with one spacer underneath. I have since moved it to no spacers, but don't have a picture. Hope this is good enough to give you an idea.
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=152896&highlight=honey+cross&page=2
beeatnik
03-03-2016, 01:52 PM
http://ergottwheels.smugmug.com/Sports/The-bikes/i-Dnfh8nw/0/XL/Spooky-89HD-XL.jpg
Visually properz
FlashUNC
03-03-2016, 02:01 PM
Here's mine, fwiw.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1634/24522764504_af5be51370_b.jpg
christian
03-03-2016, 02:35 PM
http://i.imgur.com/f9rRK.jpg
nathanong87
03-03-2016, 02:38 PM
http://ergottwheels.smugmug.com/Sports/The-bikes/i-Dnfh8nw/0/XL/Spooky-89HD-XL.jpg
#chopthatsteerer
nooneline
03-03-2016, 03:13 PM
I gather it's pretty common on track bikes, particularly for sprinters (why is that?).
For both sprinters and enduros, track bikes tend to see dual purpose as mass start bikes and as time trial bikes - sprinters may also ride the kilo, and many enduros ride the individual pursuit, or team pursuit (and the former is part of the international omnium).
That means, in order to afford the rider a good time trial position, a good dual-purpose bike has a low low low top tube (aka a short headtube, aka a very low stack measurement). That means that for mass-start use, getting the bars into the right spot involves a stem with some rise.
pavel
03-03-2016, 03:36 PM
get one of these as a threadless custom ti and flip that bad boy:
http://www.the5thfloor.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/limp.jpg
azrider
03-03-2016, 03:40 PM
get one of these as a threadless custom ti and flip that bad boy:
http://www.the5thfloor.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/limp.jpg
ewww...........
pavel
03-03-2016, 03:43 PM
slammed boner is played out. Its all about that flipped limp dick now.
fuzzalow
03-03-2016, 03:50 PM
I thought the touch points staying the same was evident from the stem figures. Sorry for assuming the reader would have a basic understanding of trigonometry. Really I just wanted pictures. I bolded that question. Nowhere did I ask for assessments of functionality. I trust my own experiences in that regard.
HaHa! I got no problem with you being the smartest guy in the room. But if next time you could be more explicit and clear about what you're asking about...so that slow guys like me can keep up with bright guys like you...that would be great.
Much appreciated.
beeatnik
03-03-2016, 03:56 PM
Pro
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8771/17582655432_4cd6803e2a_b.jpg
PRO
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/718/22794795359_8bc7263f28.jpg
Ralph
03-03-2016, 04:03 PM
Didn't read all 5 pages, but keep in mind how stems are talked about. A stem parallel to ground is a -17 degree stem. A zero degree stem sticks up a lot.
Some people are always going to need a positive rise stem due to body dimensions and this whole aesthetic thing is not doing anyone any favors.
I can put my palms on the floor but if I want to use a -17 stem slammed there's literally nothing out there I could do that on with reasonable reach. I'd have to go custom and I'd need a huge head tube. The most recent recommendation I got for a custom frame had a +6 stem and 10cm of spacers and still had a really tall head tube. That setup put the bars 32mm lower than the saddle IIRC.
Just do what works. For me that's almost always going to be a +12 or +17 on a stock frame unless I use tons of spacers.
All that said I like the long/low look too. Just not going to work for me without a comical head tube or 10-15cm of drop or an excessive reach.
dsillito
03-03-2016, 07:23 PM
Slammed boner stem will look atrocious. If you have to go that route, I suggest you wholly own it by making custom downtube decals: SLMBNR. People will think it's a hip, new Brooklyn bike brand.
I'd never write "lol", but I honestly laughed out loud at that one. T-shirt slogan?
"Don't slam the boner."
redir
03-04-2016, 08:28 AM
The slammed flaccid stem looks far worse.
Honestly, well first of all bikes are all about function to me but I can understand the aesthetic too, but a so called slammed stem looks silly to me. I harken back to the days of quill stems so I like to see a stem come out of the head tube and make a right angle adjusted to what ever height the rider is comfortable with.
oliver1850
03-04-2016, 12:40 PM
20004 58 cm Optimo. Saddle height 83 cm, 110mm Ritchey stem, 10.5 cm drop from top of saddle to top of bar.
livingminimal
03-04-2016, 01:34 PM
http://ergottwheels.smugmug.com/Sports/The-bikes/i-Dnfh8nw/0/XL/Spooky-89HD-XL.jpg
Speaking of boners. This is straight up friggin #BONERJAMZ right here.
Sorry for assuming the reader would have a basic understanding of trigonometry.
I'm not the most liked guy here, but seriously, go the ���� away with this condescending ����.
beeatnik
03-04-2016, 11:09 PM
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1648/25423953791_619004729d_b.jpg
Peter B
03-04-2016, 11:43 PM
<snip>
Speaking of boners. This is straight up friggin #BONERJAMZ right here.
Ergott's a badda$$.
spartanKid
03-05-2016, 12:03 AM
Slammed Thomson 0 deg stem.
Excuse the messy photo.
kitsnob
03-05-2016, 05:15 PM
oops ...
Mzilliox
03-05-2016, 05:40 PM
Wrong ... just wrong ... (SMH) :no:
I have nothing to add to a thread that is talking about nothing at all. Whats wrong with that pic? non drive side, TV background, odd color choices, wrong? haha. I am entertained. carry on gentlemen.
Oh, and that Ergott spooky is a damn sexy beast!
so whats the point of this thread again?
was there actually something someone was trying to learn? I gathered OP wants pictures of things people hardly ever do (for good reason), but whats the point of it all? where's the end point? do we need to show you a pro rider who does it to prove some point of yours?? i just don't get the point
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