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View Full Version : Any suggestions routing a dynamo light?


jtakeda
02-29-2016, 10:32 PM
Curious how you would route this.

Set up is like this:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1596/25154974856_b3bfba16c0_b.jpg

Nitto LEFT light mount on a m18 rack.

Frame has no special braze ons or provisions and the connector port is on the RIGHT side of the hub.

My two ideas are:
1. Down the rack stay that attaches to a P clamp on the fork. Behind the left fork blade and around the back of the fork crown and then down the back of the right fork blade and plugged into the port.

OR
2. Up and around the back edge of the rack itself. Down the right hand rack stay towards the p-clamp and down the back of the right fork blade to the port.

Any other ideas?

I'll probably end up putting fenders on this bike at some point making this moot but CA gets so little rain right now that I'm not exactly in a hurry.

JLP
02-29-2016, 10:37 PM
I thought people got away with flipping the wheel and running the connector on the left if they wanted. You might want to check that out.

jtakeda
02-29-2016, 10:42 PM
I thought people got away with flipping the wheel and running the connector on the left if they wanted. You might want to check that out.

If this is the correct answer, I shouldve thought of this and I feel dumb.

There are arrows on the hub pointing a direction which I thought meant "hub spins this way"

Im going to try this now.

EDIT:
I feel dumb. I really should've tried that before asking. The hub arrows misled me, thats my excuse I'm sticking with it.

bicycletricycle
02-29-2016, 10:50 PM
Most hubs do not recommend flipping around, they usually have some threaded bits internally that can come loose.

I think that is true for schmidt and shimano

jtakeda
02-29-2016, 10:55 PM
Most hubs do not recommend flipping around, they usually have some threaded bits internally that can come loose.

I think that is true for schmidt and shimano

Interesting....

bicycletricycle
02-29-2016, 10:57 PM
Spiraled around fork leg, spiraled up the rack stay, mount light centered on rack on the big old tab.

bicycletricycle
02-29-2016, 11:01 PM
This website says that it would be less effecient but mechanically safe on SP dynamos.

http://intelligentdesigncycles.com/page/faqs

jtakeda
02-29-2016, 11:04 PM
Spiraled around fork leg, spiraled up the rack stay, mount light centered on rack on the big old tab.

I was going to use the tab on the rack but was also considering putting a small wald basket on the rack and wasn't sure if it would get in the way.

bicycletricycle
02-29-2016, 11:12 PM
I would recommend getting velo orange constructeur front rack.

Ditch ghetto p clamps

Maybe drill some small holes in the rack, route wire internally.

Much cleaner.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-constructeur-front-rack.html

jtakeda
02-29-2016, 11:22 PM
I would recommend getting velo orange constructeur front rack.

Ditch ghetto p clamps

Maybe drill some small holes in the rack, route wire internally.

Much cleaner.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-constructeur-front-rack.html

That was the rack I was going to get initially but I got the Nitto rack for $40 and couldnt pass it up. I'm gonna run it as is for a bit and see if it bugs me. I've found that I get bothered by little details when I'm building the bike but as I ride the bike more and more I care less.

thirdgenbird
02-29-2016, 11:55 PM
I've got to vote VO constructeur too. The bike is perfect, the rack should be too.

This would let you ditch the p clamp, you could route the wire up the rack (probably internally), it has light mounts, and it also has a fender mount underneath for when you add those.

jtakeda
03-01-2016, 12:08 AM
I've got to vote VO constructeur too. The bike is perfect, the rack should be too.

This would let you ditch the p clamp, you could route the wire up the rack (probably internally), it has light mounts, and it also has a fender mount underneath for when you add those.

I think the braze-on on the fork might be prohibitive. Its a fender braze on so its beneath the fork blade making it hard to mount a front rack.

I had some longer nitto stays I was going to use but realized the stays hit the fork blades and made it hard to mount. Thats why I went P-clamp because I really do plan to add a handlebar bag or basket-one of the two.

Not sure the rack would work on this bike..

thirdgenbird
03-01-2016, 12:32 AM
I've seen it done with a spacer between the eyelet and rack stay. I can't say it will always work, but it looked good where I saw it.

559Rando
03-01-2016, 02:41 PM
I've got to vote VO constructeur too. The bike is perfect, the rack should be too.

I don't think VO constructeur racks are perfect. You'll have an ugly strut sticking out the back unless you add fenders. And you'll likely have to cut and grind the lower struts.

The Grand Compe Ene centerpull mounted rack would be super clean, if you're not going to carry much volume or weight. It require a new brake and a cable hanger and I remember the issue with this bike was there was no good way to run a cable hanger for the rear brake.

Another option would be "helicopter" tape. Do a clean job and it will be barely noticable.

If it were me, I think I'd probably first try to run the headlight at the drop out and see if that's acceptable. Here's an example:
https://web.archive.org/web/20130924064719/http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/redrivendell.jpg (https://web.archive.org/web/20130924064719/http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/redrivendell.jpg)

A final option: A framebuilder could do all kinds of neat things like Schmidt SL connectorless dropouts, internal wiring.

Were you planning to run a wired taillight?

palincss
03-01-2016, 02:53 PM
I thought people got away with flipping the wheel and running the connector on the left if they wanted. You might want to check that out.

Depends on the model of generator hub. Some must be run with the connectors on the right, others can be flipped.

palincss
03-01-2016, 02:55 PM
If this is the correct answer, I shouldve thought of this and I feel dumb.

There are arrows on the hub pointing a direction which I thought meant "hub spins this way"

Im going to try this now.

EDIT:
I feel dumb. I really should've tried that before asking. The hub arrows misled me, thats my excuse I'm sticking with it.

If the hub indicates which direction it should be turning, then pay attention to it. With those hubs that have to have the terminals on the right, harm can come to the hub if it's run in the opposite direction. Of course, not all are directional that way, but if yours is a bearing failure isn't the best way to find out you had it in the wrong way.

ColonelJLloyd
03-01-2016, 03:30 PM
This is of interest to me as I have been reading up on flipping around various dynamos because I have a frame with internal wire routing on the left fork blade. Many Schmidts are now ok to do this with.

I had found that Intelligent Design page and figured that if I had a wheel with that SP hub I'd be happy to take the gamble.

Re: the rack. Yeah, p-clamps aren't the most attractive. I have a spare VO constructeur rack that I would be willing to trade. FWIW, 100% of the three ENE brake mounted racks that have come through my hands have broken. Practically they are good for nothing more than looks.

Rather than spiral around the fork blade, I've taken an old spoke, ground the head down enough fit inside the air release hole near the bottom of the fork, bent the spoke to follow the fork and ran the wire along the spoke inside of shrink tubing. Use small cable ties where needed. But, if you use the constructeur rack, you just need to discreetly zip tie along the front rack leg.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5491/9107778755_d73e9d458b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/eSPKjc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/eSPKjc) by ColonelJLloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51002114@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/9107777877_83416d9cde_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/eSPK44)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/eSPK44) by ColonelJLloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51002114@N03/), on Flickr

This one is routed along the fork leg.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8425/7511970352_309635e95c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/crNP5d)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/crNP5d) by ColonelJLloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51002114@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8291/7511959364_de87f38d58_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/crNKNL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/crNKNL) by ColonelJLloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51002114@N03/), on Flickr

jtakeda
03-01-2016, 03:36 PM
This is of interest to me as I have been reading up on flipping around various dynamos because I have a frame with internal wire routing on the left fork blade. Many Schmidts are now ok to do this with.

I had found that Intelligent Design page and figured that if I had a wheel with that SP hub I'd be happy to take the gamble.

Re: the rack. Yeah, p-clamps aren't the most attractive. I have a spare VO constructeur rack that I would be willing to trade.

Rather than spiral around the fork blade, I've taken an old spoke, ground the head down enough fit inside the air release hole near the bottom of the fork, bent the spoke to follow the fork and ran the wire along the spoke inside of shrink tubing. Use small cable ties where needed. Photos will help. I'll post some in a bit.


I'll check and see if there are those holes on the fork.

As for trading, i got it on a super deal from a buddy so I don't really feel comfortable trading it without talking to them first.