numbskull
02-11-2016, 05:55 PM
Please don't take this as gloating.
I hope it might be of some interest/use to people.
I was looking for a place to go this winter to do some warm weather cycling, somewhere I could ride a few hours in the AM and then spend the rest of the day exploring/hiking with the wife (a non-cyclist). I read somewhere that Guadeloupe had good cycling. Airfare nonstop from Boston was surprisingly reasonable (Norwegian Air.....strange world). Found a nice little guest cottage (Les Gites d'Olive) that was also reasonable and centrally located on Grand Terre so off we went.
The island is butterfly shaped, each wing about 20 x 40 miles in size. The eastern 1/2, Basse Terre, is mountainous with an active volcano and rain forest. It is the place for eco-tourism, serious hiking, climbing, diving. The cycling options here are limited. I drove a lot of it but did not ride it. There is a single main road circling it which is winding and seriously up and down, fairly narrow, and busy with speed limits around 70-90km/h. There are shorter dead end roads heading inland and up, like 15- 20% up (they were difficult in a car using 1st gear only for several miles). The descents would be unreal but I think too dangerous because of numerous blind corners and a road width less than 2 cars wide. There is a main road traversing the center of the island that is a classic mountain climb. I had intended to ride it, but once I saw it there was no way I'd try. The slope is certainly doable (and less severe than elsewhere) but the road has no shoulders, and drops 4-5 feet vertically on each side inches from the pavement edge. Cars are flying up and down it both ways and the chance of getting squeezed off it and badly hurt seemed very likely.
On the other hand, the western 1/2, Grand Terre, is relatively flatter (although from a cycling perspective there is plenty fairly steep up and down) and more agricultural, but heavily populated. It is the spot for beaches, surfing, water sports, and easier oceanside hikes. There are several "big" roads on it that act like highways (but in most places have a wide shoulder and people do ride them), a number of secondary relatively straight roads that crisscross the island and are busy but rideable, and a bunch of smaller tertiary roads that wander around in between.
The pavement varied from superb to rough but for the most part was decent.
The maps are poor and some roads degenerate into dirt that is not particularly rideable on a road bike (think loads of potholes and sharp coral/volcanic rock). It takes a little effort once there to sort out decent routes but it is possible and worth it.
People drive fast for the road width, but cyclists are common (supposedly it is Guadeloupe's "national sport" although I'd guess rally car driving is a close second) and drivers seem to be on the lookout for, and respectful of, cyclists. I saw plenty of locals on bikes, everyone dressed to the gills in team kits, and almost all of them just soft pedaling along.
I had a blast riding around several hours each am. Plenty of hills, curves, and windy straights to draw out a real effort. Nice light, comfortable AM temps, friendly people, and beautiful unpretentious countryside. The rest of the day was spent hiking, swimming, and eating good food. The downsides were language difficulty and a long (1.5 hour) drive to get from the western side to the eastern side for activities over there.
If you have a non-cycling wife and want to go somewhere you both can enjoy then Guadeloupe is worth a look. I'm pretty sure I'll go back although I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has experience riding other places in the Caribbean.
I hope it might be of some interest/use to people.
I was looking for a place to go this winter to do some warm weather cycling, somewhere I could ride a few hours in the AM and then spend the rest of the day exploring/hiking with the wife (a non-cyclist). I read somewhere that Guadeloupe had good cycling. Airfare nonstop from Boston was surprisingly reasonable (Norwegian Air.....strange world). Found a nice little guest cottage (Les Gites d'Olive) that was also reasonable and centrally located on Grand Terre so off we went.
The island is butterfly shaped, each wing about 20 x 40 miles in size. The eastern 1/2, Basse Terre, is mountainous with an active volcano and rain forest. It is the place for eco-tourism, serious hiking, climbing, diving. The cycling options here are limited. I drove a lot of it but did not ride it. There is a single main road circling it which is winding and seriously up and down, fairly narrow, and busy with speed limits around 70-90km/h. There are shorter dead end roads heading inland and up, like 15- 20% up (they were difficult in a car using 1st gear only for several miles). The descents would be unreal but I think too dangerous because of numerous blind corners and a road width less than 2 cars wide. There is a main road traversing the center of the island that is a classic mountain climb. I had intended to ride it, but once I saw it there was no way I'd try. The slope is certainly doable (and less severe than elsewhere) but the road has no shoulders, and drops 4-5 feet vertically on each side inches from the pavement edge. Cars are flying up and down it both ways and the chance of getting squeezed off it and badly hurt seemed very likely.
On the other hand, the western 1/2, Grand Terre, is relatively flatter (although from a cycling perspective there is plenty fairly steep up and down) and more agricultural, but heavily populated. It is the spot for beaches, surfing, water sports, and easier oceanside hikes. There are several "big" roads on it that act like highways (but in most places have a wide shoulder and people do ride them), a number of secondary relatively straight roads that crisscross the island and are busy but rideable, and a bunch of smaller tertiary roads that wander around in between.
The pavement varied from superb to rough but for the most part was decent.
The maps are poor and some roads degenerate into dirt that is not particularly rideable on a road bike (think loads of potholes and sharp coral/volcanic rock). It takes a little effort once there to sort out decent routes but it is possible and worth it.
People drive fast for the road width, but cyclists are common (supposedly it is Guadeloupe's "national sport" although I'd guess rally car driving is a close second) and drivers seem to be on the lookout for, and respectful of, cyclists. I saw plenty of locals on bikes, everyone dressed to the gills in team kits, and almost all of them just soft pedaling along.
I had a blast riding around several hours each am. Plenty of hills, curves, and windy straights to draw out a real effort. Nice light, comfortable AM temps, friendly people, and beautiful unpretentious countryside. The rest of the day was spent hiking, swimming, and eating good food. The downsides were language difficulty and a long (1.5 hour) drive to get from the western side to the eastern side for activities over there.
If you have a non-cycling wife and want to go somewhere you both can enjoy then Guadeloupe is worth a look. I'm pretty sure I'll go back although I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has experience riding other places in the Caribbean.