Dt Swiss freehub question

[bikerboy337]

Just pulled a 10s shimano cassette off a set of dt 350 wheels I picked up, on the inside of the cassette was a spacer... I don't have a shimano 11s cassettes at home right now, any chance the freehub is actually an 11s as the spacer was needed for 10? The hub doesn't say 11-speed road like the ones I've seen...

I know the 10s cassettes needed a spacer with an 11s freehub... Did it need it with the 10s freehub as well? I'm a campy guy so I've never ridden shimano 10s...

Thanks!


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[dustyrider]

I want to say you'd see the 11 speed marking on the freehub between the raised shoulders in one of the channels. Some folks use spacers behind their cassettes for drive line issues, too. I've had to do this with various mtn bikes and chain guides before.

[Cicli]

Shimano 10 speed cassettes need a thin spacer on a 10 speed hub. The spacer is for the cassette, not the hub. They need the thin and the thicker spacer when used on a 11 speed hub. Dont use spacers behind a cassette to adjust chainline. Thats a bad idea.
Mavic hubs are a whole different story. Sort of.

[dustyrider]

Shimano 10 speed cassettes need a thin spacer on a 10 speed hub. The spacer is for the cassette, not the hub. They need the thin and the thicker spacer when used on a 11 speed hub. Dont use spacers behind a cassette to adjust chainline. Thats a bad idea.
Mavic hubs are a whole different story. Sort of.

Why is it a bad idea?

[Cicli]

Why is it a bad idea?

Well,
There is very little difference between getting the lockring to
A. Bottom out and have a loose cassette.
B. Just right with good thread engagement to stay put.
C. Striped lockring and loose cassette.
D. Cassette to far out and chain or small cog hits dropout.
E. Cassette to far in and spokes eat derailuer.

There just isnt enough room back there for moving the cassette around for chainline.

Lastly, I cant even wrap my head around the need to do this on a cassette anyway. The derailuer is always messing up chainline.
Crankset chainline is another story all together.

[dustyrider]

Well,
There is very little difference between getting the lockring to
A. Bottom out and have a loose cassette.
B. Just right with good thread engagement to stay put.
C. Striped lockring and loose cassette.
D. Cassette to far out and chain or small cog hits dropout.
E. Cassette to far in and spokes eat derailuer.

There just isnt enough room back there for moving the cassette around for chainline.
These aren't bad reasons just limiting factors. That limited amount of movement has proven useful to me before.

Lastly, I cant even wrap my head around the need to do this on a cassette anyway. I can't wrap my ahead around the cost of nearly every single one of our sponsor's products....but I don't find them to be bad ideas.The derailuer is always messing up chainline.That's the definition of a derailleur, no?
Crankset chainline is another story all together.Only use the cassette spacer after these adjustments have been exhausted, of course.
Cheers!

[oldpotatoe]

Just pulled a 10s shimano cassette off a set of dt 350 wheels I picked up, on the inside of the cassette was a spacer... I don't have a shimano 11s cassettes at home right now, any chance the freehub is actually an 11s as the spacer was needed for 10? The hub doesn't say 11-speed road like the ones I've seen...

I know the 10s cassettes needed a spacer with an 11s freehub... Did it need it with the 10s freehub as well? I'm a campy guy so I've never ridden shimano 10s...

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1mm spacer? Required on shimano 10s cogsets. No marking-10s.