OT- Techniques for cleaning tools?

[Ken Robb]

I just inherited some wrenches/sockets that were "stored" lying around on a work bench. They are pretty grimy and a couple of them have some rust. If I wash them in a bucket with dish soap and water and dry them immediately with a towel will I be happy with the result? Is there a better/quicker way? There aren't many with any rust so I guess steel wool or wire brush in my Dremel will handle them?

They are nice Craftsman pieces. I haven't inventoried them yet but I think they will probably be redundant to my rather complete assortment but I just hate to see neglected tools. I guess it's similar to my desire to adopt all the dogs in the pound. :beer:

[Dead Man]

Douse them in WD-40, let soak, and wipe clean... bronze bristle brush is good for rust and won't scratch the steel. Definitely wouldn't get ratchets or sockets wet - no need, and water's hard to displace.

For gummy/sticky ratchets, press the straw right into the joint in a couple spots and blast WD40 up into the join and ratchet the ratchet... blowing the now-rusty oil out with compressed air is bonus, if you have it

[Cicli]

Douse them in WD-40, let soak, and wipe clean... bronze bristle brush is good for rust and won't scratch the steel. Definitely wouldn't get ratchets or sockets wet - no need, and water's hard to displace.

For gummy/sticky ratchets, press the straw right into the joint in a couple spots and blast WD40 up into the join and ratchet the ratchet... blowing the now-rusty oil out with compressed air is bonus, if you have it

This. Soak them in OMS or Kerosene works well also.

[C. Matthews]

Neither , ratchets are made to be disassembled. Just a snap ring for most quality brands. Then you give the parts a good cleaning and reassemble with a heavy oil or light grease.
WD40 isn't a lube.

[dave thompson]

Neither , ratchets are made to be disassembled. Just a snap ring for most quality brands. Then you give the parts a good cleaning and reassemble with a heavy oil or light grease.
WD40 isn't a lube.

We know, it's being used as a cleaner/degreaser/solvent, much like rehabbing dead Shimano shifters with the stuff.

[likebikes]

parts washer.

[Dead Man]

WD40 isn't a lube.

Didnt suggest using it as such... However... Youre incorrect. It most defjnitely is a lube, for applications requiring a solvent-carried light lube.

WD40 is a solvent, penetrating oil, lubricant, cleaner, fish bait, and anything else you can think of to use it as, so long as youre using it right.

Ive never bothered disassembling a ratchet.. You certainly can, if that floats your boat, but ive got 20 years worth of abused ratchets that still work perfectly with nothing more than the every 5-or-so-year bath in WD40

[Ken Robb]

All I want to clean are open end and box wrenches plus some sockets:no ratchets.

[dave thompson]

WD-40 and a brass bristle brush are your friends. Well, I am too. :banana:

[Ken Robb]

WD-40 and a brass bristle brush are your friends. Well, I am too. :banana:

So, on my side thus far I have WD-40, a brass brush, Dave Thompson and prune juice. What am I missing? :confused:

[rustychisel]

tequila

[Ken Robb]

tequila

Judging by your handle your advice is suspect.

[rustychisel]

:banana::banana::banana:

it's worth 0.2c, same as everyone else's.

[eddief]

Sandflex blocks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0N3d5zv_s0

[thwart]

Dave Thompson and prune juice.

tequila.

Wow. This thread has moved off topic a bit. :rolleyes:

[dave thompson]

Wow. This thread has moved off topic a bit. :rolleyes:

That's the OPs fault, he started the drift. Besides if you drink enough Tequila, your tools won't be clean but you won't care.

[shovelhd]

Oxalic acid, as what's in CLR.

[jeffwidman]

I bought a toolchest off Craigslist a few years ago full of nice, but terribly grimy tools. I spent an afternoon scrubbing everything with Simple Green + a toothbrush, cleaned up really nicely. Just don't use Simple Green on any aluminum (it eats into it), only steel. Alternatively, nearly boiling water works just as well, as long as you can hold the socket/wrench with pliers while you use the toothbrush on it. And after degreasing, consider re-coating the tools with a light bit of grease or oil as a rust protectant if you don't think you'll regularly use them. My personal preference is a rag with a little bit of SuperLube because it's non-toxic and doesn't feel super greasy. I tried a rag dipped in motor oil, but it dissipates too quickly. If the tools were just greasy, but not super dirty grimy/greasy, I might consider just wiping them down and calling it good. GarageJournal.com is your friend on this sort of thing. Also, I recommend Nitrile gloves + goggles to protect the skin/eyes from splashes if you're scrubbing hard... I've had too many close calls--even got a chunk of metal in my eye once while grinding despite wearing safety glasses.

[oldpotatoe]

All I want to clean are open end and box wrenches plus some sockets:no ratchets.

Pan of diesel and a stiff brush. Problem with using water based cleaners is that they are water based=rust.

[alancw3]

if it is a one time only thing for a set of old tools ask your mechanic if you can use his solvent cleaner/parts washer.

[Ken Robb]

if it is a one time only thing for a set of old tools ask your mechanic if you can use his solvent cleaner/parts washer.

This may be my best option. The tools that I started collecying in 1967 has never been rusty because I always wiped them down with a dry rag after I used them. Living in SoCal's dry climate since 1969 neither I nor my tools have been subject to long periods of damp air either.

[Ken Robb]

Dish detergent in hot water and a Scotch Brite Pad did an amazing job on grease, grime and surface rust. A couple of pieces had spots deeper rust that I will ignore as even those tools are fully functional.

[drewellison]

I've used Evapo-Rust for years. It really does just remove the rust and leave everything else. It works great in my experience.

[Ken Robb]

Years ago I used naval jelly which removed the rust but left the steel discolored.