So I'll be installing Athena 11s in the near future..tools? [Archive]

AngryScientist

11-01-2015, 04:41 PM

make sure you have a torx t25, a long skinny one for getting through the hoods to install the levers.

t25 again for the RD

outboard BB tool for the BB cups

aside from that, if i remember right it's just a straight install.

Likes2ridefar

11-01-2015, 04:42 PM

Black Dog

11-01-2015, 04:43 PM

Torx for the ergo's. T25 with a long shaft.

Likes2ridefar

11-01-2015, 04:44 PM

AngryScientist

11-01-2015, 04:44 PM

I have a multi tool torx tool so should be covered there unless really odd ball sizes are needed.

that's probably not going to work for the hoods. you need something to go under the hoods, and something long and skinny works best. a t-handle jobber is the way to go.

https://www.kincrome.com.au/images/ProductImages/500/K5083-4.jpg

AngryScientist

11-01-2015, 04:50 PM

lol, looks like great minds at work in this thread. go team.

Likes2ridefar

11-01-2015, 05:10 PM

Veloo

11-01-2015, 05:28 PM

The Scientist may be angry but he's not mad. You will indeed need a long and slender torx for the hood bolt.
And if you decide to take the hoods off and on at all, maybe some isopropyl alcohol to aid in the on and off. Campy youtube spray a bit on the insides of the hoods.

zank

11-01-2015, 05:54 PM

The powertorque crank requires a 14mm bit.

Matthew

11-01-2015, 06:03 PM

My Record crank used a 10mm bolt for the cranks. Athena different? You will need one with a longer shaft to reach into the crankset.

zank

11-01-2015, 06:07 PM

Yes, powertorque (athena, centaur, veloce, cx) require a 14mm. It doesn't need to be long though. The fixing bolt is on the end of the spindle similar to sram.

zank

11-01-2015, 06:09 PM

I like the Craftsman t25 screwdriver.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_210984001?hei=240&wid=240

http://m.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-t25-screwdriver/p-00947212000P

Ralph

11-01-2015, 06:33 PM

I like the Craftsman t25 screwdriver.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_210984001?hei=240&wid=240

http://m.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-t25-screwdriver/p-00947212000P

What I use. Identical. And.....you don't need to peel back the hood trying to get to the fastening bolt. Just go inside and down the side of the hood to reach the bolt with that long screw driver. And make sure the screw driver is well seated in bolt head before you tighten....or you'll strip out the head.

R3awak3n

11-01-2015, 08:28 PM

Doesnt seem like you could get enough torque with a screw driver, I much prefer a t handle. I just bought one to install some athena.

zank

11-01-2015, 08:29 PM

You get plenty.

Ralph

11-01-2015, 08:36 PM

You get plenty.

Agree

R3awak3n

11-01-2015, 08:44 PM

Agree

I trust you.

I was just installing some cleat spacers that came with philips screws and used a philips screw driver and was like, I wish I had a t handle tool. But if it works for you, thats great.

harryblack

11-01-2015, 10:07 PM

The powertorque crank requires a 14mm bit.

and / or 14mm allen wrench, which looks like a mini crowbar!

I should probably dig up one of the old Power Torquethreads and post there but while we are here-- and while I understand the frustration / befuddlement that followed Power Torque's introduction-- NOW that I've recently worked on a couple PT bikes (Centaur alloy, Athena carbon) with the relevant Park Tools CBP-3 and CBP-5.

It's a simple, fast, easy job to pull the crank out for whatever reason; if anyone complains the handle on the bearing puller too "weak," they're using it wrong because for that first, more difficult crank removal, you get greater torque by holding the non-drive side in place and turning the drive side crank arm against it. (Doing this is simpler than writing it.)

I'm not thrilled with all of Park's tools but these work well and once you get used to the process, Power Torque DOES have its own elegance.

oldpotatoe

11-02-2015, 05:42 AM

and / or 14mm allen wrench, which looks like a mini crowbar!

I should probably dig up one of the old Power Torquethreads and post there but while we are here-- and while I understand the frustration / befuddlement that followed Power Torque's introduction-- NOW that I've recently worked on a couple PT bikes (Centaur alloy, Athena carbon) with the relevant Park Tools CBP-3 and CBP-5.

It's a simple, fast, easy job to pull the crank out for whatever reason; if anyone complains the handle on the bearing puller too "weak," they're using it wrong because for that first, more difficult crank removal, you get greater torque by holding the non-drive side in place and turning the drive side crank arm against it. (Doing this is simpler than writing it.)

I'm not thrilled with all of Park's tools but these work well and once you get used to the process, Power Torque DOES have its own elegance.

What he said. Too many who slam Powertorque have read some drivel on the interweb, not actually seen/used it.

Likes2ridefar

11-02-2015, 05:58 AM

oldpotatoe

11-02-2015, 06:07 AM

Should I just get a 14mm like this or is there something better for the job. Thought I had that size in a Pedro's tool with a rubber handle but it is a 10mm.

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12184-14mm-Long-L-Wrench/dp/B001HWCOWC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1446465393&sr=8-4&keywords=14mm+hex

Just that, lotsa grease all around, on spindle too. Tighten it until it stops. 31 ft-lbs tho.

Likes2ridefar

11-02-2015, 06:46 AM

oldpotatoe

11-02-2015, 08:48 AM

before i start another thread I'm guessing one of you can answer this ? as well.

I have this currently installed. the cranks are 7701 and i think it's octalink bb? i see the cranks are straight forward to remove but it seems I need yet another tool to remove the BB and I cant find info yet verifying 100% yet what is needed.

do i need this tool only?
http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-18?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

No, you will notice that tool has 8 pins, the 7700 has 6 dents. Just a normal adjustable cup tool, like Hozan or this for the adjustable lockring and RH cup. ..plus the normal spline tool for the LH cup if it's tight.

The pictured tool is for 6500/5500 BBs.

azrider

11-02-2015, 09:17 AM

Athena will look awesome on that frame.

twors

11-02-2015, 09:22 AM

14mm allen drivers are not a common size. I found a set at Autozone that included 12, 14 and 17 drivers for like 15 bucks.

Likes2ridefar

11-02-2015, 09:57 AM

Likes2ridefar

11-03-2015, 11:19 AM

azrider

11-03-2015, 11:23 AM

One last question. Do I need anything specific for the downtube to run the cables?

Currently there are dt shifters installed...

I believe you're going to need some cable stops........pictured below. I'm about 99% positive that I still have the cable stops that originally came with that bike and if so, will ship them when I get home tomorrow.

http://ep.yimg.com/ay/ird/ird-quick-release-downtube-cable-stop-5.gif

Likes2ridefar

11-03-2015, 11:26 AM

That would be excellent.

azrider

11-03-2015, 11:37 AM

That would be excellent.

Again, when it comes to working on bikes the below picture speaks directly to me.

I'd still prefer an expert to come along and confirm what I stated earlier

Likes2ridefar

11-03-2015, 11:40 AM

thwart

11-03-2015, 11:55 AM

In the post-Octalink era, I'd just have the LBS take the crank off, and remove the BB.

You won't use those tools again, in all likelihood.

azrider

11-03-2015, 12:01 PM

I didn't think the group comes with stops, and I've never built a bike that has bosses.

I see generic ones on Amazon for $12, shimano for double that and campy makes them but they are pricey.

Well the stops I have were used with the 7400 8 speed that was on there. I'm not even sure if it would work with Athena (or if it matters)

oldpotatoe

11-03-2015, 03:34 PM

Well the stops I have were used with the 7400 8 speed that was on there. I'm not even sure if it would work with Athena (or if it matters)

They are fine, you don't really use them anyway on well installed and adjusted 'stuff'.

azrider

11-03-2015, 03:54 PM

They are fine, you don't really use them anyway on well installed and adjusted 'stuff'.

Boom.

If anyone would know it'd be OldP. I'll look for those parts tonight.

Cicli

11-03-2015, 04:20 PM

Boom.

If anyone would know it'd be OldP. I'll look for those parts tonight.

If they dont come up I have some new ones you can have. Anything to help a guy install Campagnolo. :beer:

azrider

11-04-2015, 07:44 PM

If they dont come up I have some new ones you can have. Anything to help a guy install Campagnolo. :beer:

Thank you!!

So, I made it home finally and found the parts. However I'm at a loss as to why they're different.

Any help?

thwart

11-04-2015, 08:23 PM

Thank you!!

So, I made it home finally and found the parts. However I'm at a loss as to why they're different.

Any help?
That's a well-used set. :D

The 'larger' one goes on the R (driveside) of the downtube; it allows for a little easier on-the-bike tuning of the derailleur.

oldpotatoe

11-05-2015, 05:59 AM

That's a well-used set. :D

The 'larger' one goes on the R (driveside) of the downtube; it allows for a little easier on-the-bike tuning of the derailleur.

True but the amount it moves is SO large, it isn't really useable for 11s but yes, those will work to stop the cable at the downtube.

Likes2ridefar

11-10-2015, 02:36 PM

azrider

11-10-2015, 02:51 PM

Installed most the campy gear while I await the cable stops.

should be there Thursday.....

sucks about the install

oldpotatoe

11-10-2015, 02:55 PM

Installed most the campy gear while I await the cable stops.

I installed the spring spacer incorrectly on the crankset, and realized it about halfway through the tightening of the monster hex bolt on the cranks. It was enough to press the crank arm on so now I get to order a $100 set of tools to get the arm off :crap:

Did you put it outside the LH dustcap? Go get a $20 gear puller and some leather for between the crank arm and puller. Make sure the crank bolt washer is out. May need to buy the proper plug for the spindle to push against.

But I have the Park one, works fine.

Likes2ridefar

11-10-2015, 02:57 PM

thwart

11-10-2015, 03:55 PM

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I already ordered the park tool set...

Before you open it... mine failed (and scuffed up the crank), but this set-up works very well. Have used it twice since.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1717235&postcount=15

Think I may still have the spare Campy plug around...