View Full Version : Cannondale 2016 bottom brackets?
Anyone here familiar with the new Cannondale 2016 CAAD10 and Super Six Evo Mod bottom brackets? They're labeled BB30+, and are supposed to be 73 mm wide rather than 68 mm. So my question: Can I fit a standard Dura Ace 9000 crankset on that bike? Are the bottom bracket adapters simply narrower? Thanks in advance!
kramnnim
10-26-2015, 08:32 PM
Wouldn't be able to use the Praxis type adapters, until they come up with a narrower one... You should be able to use this... http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/cannondale-bb30a/bb30a-adapters.html
I have some of those, but the bottom bracket starts out 5 mm wider than the standard road dimension. These would just make the ultimate spacing of the bottom bracket 5 mm wider, but the crankset is still built for 68 mm. I'm imagining there's an adapter like this that's 2.5 mm shallower on each side, as long as the cranks still clear the chain stays and maintain chainline. But can't find it.
ultraman6970
10-26-2015, 09:59 PM
This is starting to get ridiculous...
kramnnim
10-26-2015, 10:08 PM
I have some of those, but the bottom bracket starts out 5 mm wider than the standard road dimension. These would just make the ultimate spacing of the bottom bracket 5 mm wider, but the crankset is still built for 68 mm. I'm imagining there's an adapter like this that's 2.5 mm shallower on each side, as long as the cranks still clear the chain stays and maintain chainline. But can't find it.
Yours might be the older type that have wider adapters; I believe these are narrower, and come with a bunch of spacers that are used for regular 68mm BB30. Wheels MFG has them listed as working with BB30A (I guess they changed the name to BB30+?), you could always call them to make sure.
oldpotatoe
10-27-2015, 04:47 AM
Anyone here familiar with the new Cannondale 2016 CAAD10 and Super Six Evo Mod bottom brackets? They're labeled BB30+, and are supposed to be 73 mm wide rather than 68 mm. So my question: Can I fit a standard Dura Ace 9000 crankset on that bike? Are the bottom bracket adapters simply narrower? Thanks in advance!
Brilliant, another 'standard'...
ergott
10-27-2015, 05:37 AM
This is starting to get ridiculous...
What, they are an improved "standard" so the must be better.:rolleyes:
Wakatel_Luum
10-27-2015, 07:06 AM
So glad all my bikes BB's are English threaded... ;)
oldpotatoe
10-27-2015, 07:23 AM
So glad all my bikes BB's are English threaded... ;)
Glad my daily driver is the far superior Italian threading.:p
chiasticon
10-27-2015, 07:25 AM
This is starting to get ridiculous...
starting to? it's been ridiculous for a while.
ultraman6970
10-27-2015, 08:33 AM
Honestly I thought this was going to stop at some point after a couple of years but now it is getting stupidly ridiculous... next year they will come with BB100 and 145 mm rear and 18 gear cogs or something.
As potato and others... glad my bikes have the superior italian threaded BB :P
starting to? it's been ridiculous for a while.
Italian threading is great until the small ring moves outboard and takes the place of the big ring ;)
Every Italian threaded BB should ship with a tube of Loctite Blue.
oldpotatoe
10-27-2015, 11:15 AM
Italian threading is great until the small ring moves outboard and takes the place of the big ring ;)
Every Italian threaded BB should ship with a tube of Loctite Blue.
Nope but any decent wrench installing one should prep the BB shell correctly, then install correctly. I have installed a 'few' Italian and French BBs and have never used 'glue' to hold the RH cup in.
ultraman6970
10-27-2015, 11:21 AM
As potato, never had a single problem with an italian BB but maybe once... that I knew I did not crank the driver side cup to much, came back home and fixed it... no loctite or anything. I do like non conventional solutions but put loctite in a BB is a really bad idea IMO.
Wakatel_Luum
10-27-2015, 01:35 PM
I had an Italian BB decide to unwind on me during a ride once...glad I use the superior English thread on all my Merlin's now... ;)
binxnyrwarrsoul
10-27-2015, 01:42 PM
What, they are an improved "standard" so the must be better.:rolleyes:
The "standard" is threaded, and italiano, altho' ingles aint too bad. CAAD10 (or the like), not up in here. Fixin' what ain't be broke.
peanutgallery
10-27-2015, 03:38 PM
What is this Italian threaded bb of which I hear you speak?
Is it made by alfa romeo?
What is this Italian threaded bb of which I hear you speak?
Is it made by alfa romeo?
Like all things Italian, they got it backwards.
Having ridden one, the 2016 Super Six and CAAD 12 are amazingly comfortable rides without being noodles to sprint on. They've really manage to go where no builder has necessarily gone before. But they throw on this wacky bottom bracket, plus a 25.4 mm seat post. Really? The bike lords giveth and the bike lords taketh away. If anyone finds out what makes this bottom bracket compatible with basic 68 mm cranks, please let me know. In the meantime, I'm calling a couple custom builders.
ultraman6970
10-27-2015, 05:21 PM
25.4??? Interesting... saving weight maybe? Oh i know, they want to make the bicycle to look kool and retro at the same time .
25.4??? Interesting... saving weight maybe? Oh i know, they want to make the bicycle to look kool and retro at the same time .
They say it gives a more comfortable ride -- vertical compliance with stiff lateral stability. I'd have to say it does, though I'm not sure I like being on a 25.4 mm tube of carbon. Give me 31.6 mm any day. They were very weight conscious on these two bikes and I'm sure the smaller diameter helps with a few grams of that as well, but at least as they explain it, it's for more comfort.
ultraman6970
10-27-2015, 06:31 PM
Put my 260 pounds butt over that seatpost and sure will crack after a week... :D
kramnnim
10-27-2015, 08:50 PM
If anyone finds out what makes this bottom bracket compatible with basic 68 mm cranks, please let me know.
The Wheels Mfg adapters I already mentioned. http://support.cannondale.com/hc/en-us/articles/202383819-Adapter-Kits-For-BB30-BB30A-And-PressFit-30
Just make sure it's the new kit with the umpteen spacers.
The Wheels Mfg adapters I already mentioned. http://support.cannondale.com/hc/en-us/articles/202383819-Adapter-Kits-For-BB30-BB30A-And-PressFit-30
Just make sure it's the new kit with the umpteen spacers.
1. Do the crank and chainrings still clear the chain stays in a normal fashion?
2. Do you have the specific adapter model number? No reason to buy a whole kit.
And thanks for finding something that's a match to this crazy bottom bracket!
kramnnim
10-27-2015, 10:56 PM
You'd adjust the number of spacers on each side to put the chainline where you want it.
Pretty cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Universal-Adapter-Shimano/dp/B00D5DQ3H8/
sw3759
10-27-2015, 10:59 PM
Glad my daily driver is the far superior Italian threading.:p
so,are you saying you have an Italian threaded shell in your Moots ?
that's quite a white elephant if so..
kramnnim
10-27-2015, 11:06 PM
...while Wheels Mfg and Cannondale both say the kit will work, the adapters look just as fat as the old ones that didn't use spacers. I'd call Wheels Mfg to confirm.
Of you could shell out a bunch of money for one of these... http://kogelbearings.mysimplestore.com/products/bb30a-24-for-shimano-cranks
My concern on that last one (and I'd seen it) is that the bottom bracket shell increased from 2015 to 2016 from 68 to 73 mm. Basically road to mountain. So I don't think that bottom bracket will actually work. It's my ongoing concern about the Wheels shims as well.
CiclistiCliff
10-27-2015, 11:28 PM
Put my 260 pounds butt over that seatpost and sure will crack after a week... :D
They've been using 25.4 posts for a good while on the Synapse's and no issues.
As far as BB goes, it's a 68mm BB30, not 73mm BB30A . It's the Pressfit BB30, not to be confused with PF30 which requires a stupidly long crank spindle.
oldpotatoe
10-28-2015, 04:42 AM
so,are you saying you have an Italian threaded shell in your Moots ?
that's quite a white elephant if so..
Daily Driver=Merckx MXLeader..Moots wet weather, now, single speed, bici.
oldpotatoe
10-28-2015, 04:44 AM
My concern on that last one (and I'd seen it) is that the bottom bracket shell increased from 2015 to 2016 from 68 to 73 mm. Basically road to mountain. So I don't think that bottom bracket will actually work. It's my ongoing concern about the Wheels shims as well.
Wth the road BB and crank as it is, designed for no spacers anywhere, not under the cups(like XT say) and none outside the cups, I don't see how a spindle designed for a 68mm shell, will work on a 73mm shell. Call Wheels, ask for Nick.
oldpotatoe
10-28-2015, 04:46 AM
They've been using 25.4 posts for a good while on the Synapse's and no issues.
As far as BB goes, it's a 68mm BB30, not 73mm BB30A . It's the Pressfit BB30, not to be confused with PF30 which requires a stupidly long crank spindle.
Not really. The inside diameter of the shell is bigger(42mm vice 46mm) but the spindle length requirements for PFBB30 and BB30 are the same, same 68mm width. Why you can use a 24mm road crank spindle on PFBB30..but it's confusing and I'm not sure about the C-Dale.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 05:50 AM
My concern on that last one (and I'd seen it) is that the bottom bracket shell increased from 2015 to 2016 from 68 to 73 mm. Basically road to mountain. So I don't think that bottom bracket will actually work. It's my ongoing concern about the Wheels shims as well.
BB30a is like BBRight, but not as wide. The 5mm is only on one side, unlike a 73mm threaded MTB shell.
The Synapse got BB30a before the other models.
Kogel should work because the NDS cup is 5mm narrower than the DS to make up for the asymmetrical BB30a shell.
I'm assuming the Wheels Mfg kit is supposed to work because the adapters are...5mm narrower (?) than the version that doesn't use spacers. You'd add 5mm of spacers on the DS and leave the NDS without spacers for BB30a. But yeah, call Wheels Mfg. Aty this point I'm curious enough to call them myself...lol.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 05:52 AM
I don't see how a spindle designed for a 68mm shell, will work on a 73mm shell. Call Wheels, ask for Nick.
It won't, thus the old 104mm Hollowgram spindles don't work with BB30a.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 05:54 AM
As far as BB goes, it's a 68mm BB30, not 73mm BB30A . It's the Pressfit BB30, not to be confused with PF30 which requires a stupidly long crank spindle.
BB30a was only on the Synapse models for a while, but they've expanded it for some reason.
The long spindle is BB386...and whatever Rotor and SRAM call it...
They've expanded the use of BB30A because it's their solution to the short chainstays + disc brakes issue.
Specialized did it's "SCS" thing and made a funky 130mm rear hub to allow short chain stays + normal road Q-factor, etc.. + good chainline.
Cannondale decided to monkey with the BB instead.. they use the standard disc wheel (135?) and then use a special BB/Crank to move the chainrings out without messing with the Q factor.
That's if I understood correctly... personally I think Cannondale's choice is a little less risky as I've almost never had to change a crank on a bike. Once you've got it set up right it's almost set and forget for me, whereas I have had to fix/replace/change wheels.
The 25.4mm seatpost is somewhat unfortunate due to choices.. Cannondale makes seatposts in 0mm and 15mm offset. One of the only 25mm offset ones out there is the Enve post which is supposed to be great but it's $275. Interestingly the other common use case for 25.4mm is BMX.. I'm sure they take a ton of abuse in BMX so nothing wrong with 25.4 but then the BMX ones are unlikely to be carbon too. They probably just have thicker walls than 27.2/31.6mm posts.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 06:51 AM
The part that confuses me with the Shimano kit from Wheels Mfg...both adapters are the same width. This doesn't seem to allow for the extra width on the NDS of BB30a and BBRight. The SRAM adapters are different, the NDS adapter is very thin, and you just add spacers to get the width you need.
The BBRight to Shimano kit uses the thin NDS adapter and would work with BB30a if you added 6mm of spacers that they don't include. But maybe the standard Universal Shimano kit will work as claimed...
ergott
10-28-2015, 06:52 AM
This isn't a criticism of the people chatting here, but this thread is giving me a headache. The good thing is I have much less interest in getting any new bike from the major manufacturers that don't use an actual "standard" bottom bracket. I like to consider myself up to date on most things bikes, but all the BB chat has just become noise to me. I'd hate to be a shop mechanic for that reason alone.:crap:
Sorry for the drift. Carry on.
Haha I think most of us feel the same way you do. All of this pretty much has stopped me from getting a bike with discs until it's all figured out.
I assume most custom manufacturers would just use longer chainstays.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 07:06 AM
Didn't think it had anything to do with chainstay length.
I thought I'd read it did.
The short chainstays Specialized and Cannondale want to use create a problem with chainline if you use a 68mm BB with a 135mm hub. The chain is angled to sharply in some of the gears. ISTR (bike radar?) or someone saying Shimano had refused to allow their components on one of these bikes without something being done.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 08:05 AM
My non disc 130mm Ridley has short stays and the extreme chain angle is annoyingly loud. Not sure how a wider BB would change that... If the DS moved out, the racket I get when in the lowest gear would be even worse...
I figured BB30a was "better" because the wider shell is stiffer, same reasoning behind BBRight and BB386 being "better"...
Sure is annoying, though...
AngryScientist
10-28-2015, 08:10 AM
This isn't a criticism of the people chatting here, but this thread is giving me a headache. The good thing is I have much less interest in getting any new bike from the major manufacturers that don't use an actual "standard" bottom bracket. I like to consider myself up to date on most things bikes, but all the BB chat has just become noise to me. I'd hate to be a shop mechanic for that reason alone.:crap:
Sorry for the drift. Carry on.
i was thinking the exact same thing. i dont consider myself a retro-grouch at all, but this is crazy.
To the points above, this is a problem on 130 mm rear spacing road frames with quick releases and rim caliper brakes. They wouldn't force a new standard on 130 just because they have to do it on 142.
And a point of clarification: Cannondale's website says it's a BB30A bottom bracket. However, all the reviewers have stated that it's gone from 68 to 73 mm and have used Cannondale's new designation, BB30+. So they seem to have made it confusing as hell just to add to the mess, and short of pulling one apart, I don't quite see how we're going to get an answer. Local mechanics haven't done so yet and not that many people want to ditch the SiSl2 crankset -- it's a superb product as long as you can handle the crank arm length they throw at you.
Ergott, I'd let you off the hook but you know that the wheel business is getting very wonky right now. Cross and gravel hubs are going to 142x12 rear and either 100x12 or 100x15 front. A new road hub spacing is in the works -- technically it's already something like 131.5 and the manufacturers are negotiating on whether it's 135 or all bikes go 142.5. There are so many alternative disc brake mounting designs -- I thought I could order a bike with flat mounts and be done, but discover that even Shimano isn't supporting their own standard yet. And after mucking around with 6-bolt iso for too long, I finally hear that next spring Chris King is going centerlock. About time. But it doesn't make it fun to deviate from manufacturers' specs at all. Ugh.
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 08:59 AM
Maybe this is what you are already saying, but as I understood it, BB30a is 73mm, 5mm wider than normal BB30, with that 5mm on the NDS. BB30+ seems to be the new name for BB30a.
ergott
10-28-2015, 09:04 AM
Ergott, I'd let you off the hook but you know that the wheel business is getting very wonky right now.
At least it's easier to just swap endcaps on a hubset when switching frames. Many hub designs do this as the shell is the same for 135mm and 142. 130 disc should go by way of the do-do if it hasn't already.
Like BSA, I'm still content with QR axles for my disc bike. I think if a bike has QR mounts (100mm front, 135mm rear), you will be able to get hubs/wheels for quite a while much like you can still get threaded BBs.
If I were to get a custom bike I would still insist on QR or if I had to, 12mm TA front and 142 rear. That seems to be growing as a newer "standard" that's acceptable.
beeatnik
10-28-2015, 09:13 AM
I love me some Cannondale but the creaking BB gots to go. Rode this weekend w/ 3 pals and each had creaking bikas. One was on a Mavic CAAD9, the other a CAAD10 and the third an Evo.
https://instagram.com/p/9O-b1zMzZ1/?taken-by=davidpecokayala
Oh my buddy's BMC also creaks. They use some sort of press fit, don't they?
If I were to get a custom bike I would still insist on QR or if I had to, 12mm TA front and 142 rear. That seems to be growing as a newer "standard" that's acceptable.
Thread drift here. My bad. I tend to agree with you about trends, but then note that Enve just came out with dedicated cross wheel sets with 100x15 front TA.
CiclistiCliff
10-28-2015, 09:50 AM
I love me some Cannondale but the creaking BB gots to go. Rode this weekend w/ 3 pals and each had creaking bikas. One was on a Mavic CAAD9, the other a CAAD10 and the third and Evo.
https://instagram.com/p/9O-b1zMzZ1/?taken-by=davidpecokayala
Oh my buddy's BMC also creaks. They use some sort of press fit, don't they?
BMC uses BB86. Some older Time Machines used BB30.
As for the C-Dale nonsense, I'm going to rip apart a CAAD12, disc Synapse, '16 Evo and non disc Synapse and take pictures for all of you.
As far as creaky BB's go, it can be many things ranging from the bearing spinning in the frame, improperly torqued arms, incorrect bearing preload or lack of grease. The other fun part is out of spec frames. I call these Easy Fit 30's. I had 3 Tarmacs in one week that got Praxis conversion BB's and new cranks.
EasyFit 30 video (http://iconosquare.com/p/1003979238770816870_7159940#sthash.BaNmvHZx.dpuf)
ergott
10-28-2015, 10:05 AM
Thread drift here. My bad. I tend to agree with you about trends, but then note that Enve just came out with dedicated cross wheel sets with 100x15 front TA.
Right, but isn't that just with DT hubs? That means you can get either 12mm or 15mm option. Makes sense to cover both bases for more customer flexibility.
Their cross fork is 12mm TA. Big companies that are going TA are using 12mm more and more for cross/gravel/road.
Good drift non the less.
beeatnik
10-28-2015, 10:24 AM
The other fun part is out of spec frames. I call these Easy Fit 30's. I had 3 Tarmacs in one week that got Praxis conversion BB's and new cranks.
EasyFit 30 video (http://iconosquare.com/p/1003979238770816870_7159940#sthash.BaNmvHZx.dpuf)
Yikez
kramnnim
10-28-2015, 10:56 AM
I just called Wheels Mfg and Nick(?) confirmed that the universal kit will work with BB30a, the main adapters are narrower than the old style and you'd just add/remove spacers to get the correct with and chainline. (which is what I assumed, but I was too curious to not confirm)
azrider
10-28-2015, 11:12 AM
I love me some Cannondale but the creaking BB gots to go. Rode this weekend w/ 3 pals and each had creaking bikas. One was on a Mavic CAAD9, the other a CAAD10 and the third and Evo.
https://instagram.com/p/9O-b1zMzZ1/?taken-by=davidpecokayala
add my name to that creak-ondale list. I just got Praxis conversion kit in mail and plan on installing to my caad10 tonight
Nope but any decent wrench installing one should prep the BB shell correctly, then install correctly. I have installed a 'few' Italian and French BBs and have never used 'glue' to hold the RH cup in.
As potato, never had a single problem with an italian BB but maybe once... that I knew I did not crank the driver side cup to much, came back home and fixed it... no loctite or anything. I do like non conventional solutions but put loctite in a BB is a really bad idea IMO.
The BB in question was a cartridge BB, not a cup design, not that it matters much.
A BB coming loose is not something one can easily recover from on a ride, but I'd agree it isn't an immediate problem for the 'decent wrench' happy, warm, and well-fed back in the shop.
The designers had a choice of which way to thread the cup. Choosing the direction which made this failure more likely under normal use was the wrong design choice - though it may have saved on manufacturing costs, like many of the new 'standard' BB designs may do.
You can clean the threads, chase the threads, face the shell, and properly torque the BB and it can still work itself loose simply through the motion of the crank. Never ever ever happened, never will happen, not once? OK.
Loctite is available in a range of strengths, some of which would be totally inappropriate for use on a BB. Properly ensuring a fastener does not work loose under normal use is not 'a bad idea'; locking mechanisms (wave, star, and lock washers, Nylock nuts, castle nuts, safety wires and yes, 'glue') are in universal use in a range of applications.
I just called Wheels Mfg and Nick(?) confirmed that the universal kit will work with BB30a, the main adapters are narrower than the old style and you'd just add/remove spacers to get the correct with and chainline. (which is what I assumed, but I was too curious to not confirm)
What I don't know without a 2016 Super Six Evo Hi Mod in my hands is whether the bottom bracket is really a BB30A or whether their BB30+ designation (used when they announced the bike) is a variant with a 73 mm shell. If so, bets may still be off. Plus, even if one can change adapters to compensate for the wider bottom bracket shell, it doesn't mean that the chain stays haven't spread out more and the chainrings or crank arms hit them. The supposed point of this was to give a broader base for chain stay attachment so clearance issues are still a question.
Further, even though the shell may be 73 mm, are the grooves for the BB30 circlip that the bearings rest against still at the original spacing, which means original BB30 to 24mm adapters will work fine and the shells simply extend farther over the adapters simply so there's more room to attach other tubes to. Whatever, this is a pain.
Krammnim, thanks for looking into this. I'm going to have to get a digital caliper and a frame that a dealer will let me open up so we can get a definitive answer. I did call Cannondale. They are usually really good, but they didn't have a schematic with precise measurements and their technical people could only address how Cannondale cranks would fit.
kramnnim
10-29-2015, 09:09 PM
"Cannondale also adopted the wider 73mm BB30a standard first introduced on the new Synapse."
http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/2016-cannondale-supersix-evo-hi-mod-revealed-44621/
Sounds like they just preferred the BB30+ name over BB30a.
Would the carbon frames use an 42mm alloy shell with circlips, or a 46mm PF30 plastic insert like the current Evos?
Either way, the bearings are 73mm from outside to outside, not 68mm. And you won't need to worry about chainring/chainstay clearance, 73mm is still a lot narrower than BB86 shells.
I wouldn't worry about it. If you end up having issues I will happily dispose of the frame for you. :)
oldpotatoe
10-30-2015, 06:24 AM
The BB in question was a cartridge BB, not a cup design, not that it matters much.
A BB coming loose is not something one can easily recover from on a ride, but I'd agree it isn't an immediate problem for the 'decent wrench' happy, warm, and well-fed back in the shop.
The designers had a choice of which way to thread the cup. Choosing the direction which made this failure more likely under normal use was the wrong design choice - though it may have saved on manufacturing costs, like many of the new 'standard' BB designs may do.
You can clean the threads, chase the threads, face the shell, and properly torque the BB and it can still work itself loose simply through the motion of the crank. Never ever ever happened, never will happen, not once? OK.
Loctite is available in a range of strengths, some of which would be totally inappropriate for use on a BB. Properly ensuring a fastener does not work loose under normal use is not 'a bad idea'; locking mechanisms (wave, star, and lock washers, Nylock nuts, castle nuts, safety wires and yes, 'glue') are in universal use in a range of applications.
Cartridge versus loose ball matter a LOT, in terms of BB/seal drag.
One thing for sure, if a customer isn't happy, you will hear about it. I have seen and worked on more than a few Italian(and French) BBs, along with all of my steel bikes being Italian threading(never owned a BSC steel bike) and none of mine have come loose, along with no customer's(unless they were so pissed, they just went elsewhere).
Just never needed to use loctite. I HAVE seen frames ruined because that loctited BB cup was permanently bonded to the frame. Grease does a lot in terms of dissimilar materials corrosion.
Look, it may have been a design 'fail' and yes, BSC is a better idea(along with Swiss threading) but for years, all bike frames were the 'far superior Italian threading', and if the frame is prepped, the BB installed correctly, it doesn't automatically unscrew.
kramnnim
10-30-2015, 07:44 AM
Actually BSC is cheaper since the ONE cutting tool goes from left side to right side, all the way thru, not 2 tools cutting threads on each side(like Italian).
Maybe I didn't sleep enough and brain is broken, but this seems backwards. You need L and R taps for English threads, one tool cannot thread both sides even if it goes all the way through.
oldpotatoe
10-30-2015, 09:51 AM
Maybe I didn't sleep enough and brain is broken, but this seems backwards. You need L and R taps for English threads, one tool cannot thread both sides even if it goes all the way through.
Nope, you are right, my brain is addled by cold and cough meds..Italian uses one tap thru, BSC is 2..:beer:
azrider
12-02-2015, 11:04 AM
BB30a is like BBRight, but not as wide.
The Synapse got BB30a before the other models.
It won't, thus the old 104mm Hollowgram spindles don't work with BB30a.
BB30a was only on the Synapse models for a while, but they've expanded it for some reason.
And a point of clarification: Cannondale's website says it's a BB30A bottom bracket. However, all the reviewers have stated that it's gone from 68 to 73 mm and have used Cannondale's new designation, BB30+. So they seem to have made it confusing as hell just to add to the mess, and short of pulling one apart, I don't quite see how we're going to get an answer.
What I don't know without a 2016 Super Six Evo Hi Mod in my hands is whether the bottom bracket is really a BB30A or whether their BB30+ designation (used when they announced the bike) is a variant with a 73 mm shell.
"Cannondale also adopted the wider 73mm BB30a standard first introduced on the new Synapse."
http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/2016-cannondale-supersix-evo-hi-mod-revealed-44621/
Sounds like they just preferred the BB30+ name over BB30a.
Would the carbon frames use an 42mm alloy shell with circlips, or a 46mm PF30 plastic insert like the current Evos?
Either way, the bearings are 73mm from outside to outside, not 68mm. And you won't need to worry about chainring/chainstay clearance, 73mm is still a lot narrower than BB86 shells.
I wouldn't worry about it. If you end up having issues I will happily dispose of the frame for you. :)
So it's been established that bb30+ is same as bb30.
Is there any update or new info you've discovered on this 11.4?
Can anyone provide any feedback as to whether the BB30A solves or reduces the creak that 'usually' accompanied the older BB30?
kramnnim
12-02-2015, 12:23 PM
So it's been established that bb30+ is same as bb30.
I believe BB30+ is the same as BB30a, which is 5mm wider than BB30.
I assume it's just as creak prone as PF30/BBRight...
azrider
12-02-2015, 12:43 PM
I assume it's just as creak prone as PF30/BBRight...
Figured as much..........:crap:
I believe BB30+ is the same as BB30a, which is 5mm wider than BB30.
I assume it's just as creak prone as PF30/BBRight...
But how does that 5 mm increased width accommodate your basic Shimano crankset? I didn't get a particularly comforting reply from manufacturers on spacers. Everyone seems to want someone else to figure it out. So I don't have a definitive answer yet, unless I buy a new frame, strip the crankset, and replace it with an industry standard one.
Cicli
12-02-2015, 03:55 PM
I am not happy with any sound on a bike outside of my tires or my screaming legs. That said my BB30's or PF30's are silent. Maybe you all just need spindly wimpy legs like me to silence them? :eek:
harryblack
12-02-2015, 04:26 PM
I am not happy with any sound on a bike outside of my tires or my screaming legs. That said my BB30's or PF30's are silent. Maybe you all just need spindly wimpy legs like me to silence them? :eek:
While I wouldn't care to advocate more "standards"...
My Caad 10 with BB30 + Hollowgram SL = SILENT, zero maintenance required so far, no Loctite.
My Giant TCX with BB386 + Campy Power Torque = SILENT, no Loctite.
But also, partner's Bianchi Axis with English cups + Campy Ultra Torque = SILENT.
Not to say lots of people don't creak and its maddening but...
I am not happy with any sound on a bike outside of my tires or my screaming legs. That said my BB30's or PF30's are silent. Maybe you all just need spindly wimpy legs like me to silence them? :eek:
I have two current (2015) model Cannondales with BB30's and both a Crumpton and Moots with PF30. Never had a squeak. I'm using stock bearings and Wheels spacer adapters on the Cannondales and King PF30 bottom brackets on the other two. I have been on a variety of other BB30 and PF30 bikes and don't have squeaking with any of them. I sometimes wonder whether it's a relatively few noisy bottom brackets that we hear a lot about, or whether it's installation error. I'm no magician.
tristan
12-03-2015, 03:07 AM
BB30a is 73mm wide, however that extra 5mm is ONLY on the non-driveside. So a bit like BBRight which is 79mm.
kramnnim
12-03-2015, 07:16 AM
But how does that 5 mm increased width accommodate your basic Shimano crankset? I didn't get a particularly comforting reply from manufacturers on spacers. Everyone seems to want someone else to figure it out. So I don't have a definitive answer yet, unless I buy a new frame, strip the crankset, and replace it with an industry standard one.
Shimano crankset needs spacers to add width, from 68mm (or 73mm) up to 86mm? (or is it 90mm?)
Of course, Shimano also needs the spacers to adapt the 24mm spindle to the 30mm hole in the bearings.
The current model of Wheels Mfg adapter set uses multiple spacers, http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Universal-Adapter-Shimano/dp/B00D5DQ3H8
So for BB30a, you would use fewer spacers. (5mm worth)
You cannot use a Praxis type conversion BB ( https://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/ ), as it assumes the BB shell is 68mm wide, and there are no spacers to remove.
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