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Tony T
10-25-2015, 07:31 AM
I have a twist in one spoke. Looks like a non-issue to me, but wanted to see what you guys thought:
oldpotatoe
10-25-2015, 07:33 AM
I have a twist in one spoke. Looks like a non-issue to me, but wanted to see what you guys thought:

Pretty common, need to use a 'TwistResist' but that much, I wouldn't worry about it. I'd be more concerned the spoke 'may' be bonded to the nipple.
Tony T
10-25-2015, 07:45 AM
Yeah, looks like it may be seized to the nipple, but would that be a concern only if it needed truing, or did you mean there could be another concern?
oldpotatoe
10-25-2015, 07:51 AM
Yeah, looks like it may be seized to the nipple, but would that be a concern only if it needed truing, or did you mean there could be another concern?

Only if ya gotta turn the nipple to true, twist any more and it 'may' break. Aluminum spokes..yikes.
Tony T
10-25-2015, 08:08 AM
ok, then when/if it needs to be trued, that's the time I'll replace the spoke.
Thanks!
ultraman6970
10-25-2015, 08:09 AM
Grab something like a water bottle cap or anything in plastic or any material will work... and cut a slit (i think is the word) around the thickness of the spoke, and twist the spoke back to its position.

I have used plastic, wood and PVC. The pvc one i made it out of a plastic tubing couple... the wood one I made it out of one of my kids wood didactic toy thing they had, dremel and good to go. Not as fancy as a professional one but worked fine.
thwart
10-25-2015, 08:56 AM
Sure, one may be tempted to say this is only a cosmetic issue...

But the negative aero effects should not be so easily dismissed.

:D
oldpotatoe
10-25-2015, 12:26 PM
Grab something like a water bottle cap or anything in plastic or any material will work... and cut a slit (i think is the word) around the thickness of the spoke, and twist the spoke back to its position.

I have used plastic, wood and PVC. The pvc one i made it out of a plastic tubing couple... the wood one I made it out of one of my kids wood didactic toy thing they had, dremel and good to go. Not as fancy as a professional one but worked fine.

On aluminum, I wouldn't do that. Aluminum doesn't like to be manipulated much.
seanile
10-25-2015, 12:29 PM
put a spoke wrench on the nipple, grab the spoke with some needle nose pliers, and spin each the opposite direction so you tighten the nipple while loosening the spoke. should leave you with no change in tension and a properly aligned spoke.
lhuerta
10-25-2015, 01:15 PM
here you go.... Park BSH-4: http://www.parktool.com/product/bladed-spoke-holder-bsh-4
Tony T
10-25-2015, 04:35 PM
I'm a decent wrench but could never get the hang of truing wheel, so I think I'll leave it as is, since the wheel is true (with the slight twist on one spoke). I'm certain if I tried to adjust the twist that I would either get the wheel out-of true or pop the nipple.
Tony T
10-25-2015, 04:50 PM
The DT Swiss holders look good, as you can get it right up to the nipple with room to turn the spoke wrench:
https://www.dtswiss.com/CmsPages/GetFile.aspx?guid=915d449b-854d-4129-a74d-6d4eccf78e65
CampyorBust
10-25-2015, 06:02 PM
Crazy, I had the same thing happen to 3 spokes the other day. I was truing a carbon rear wheel which refuses to be trued. There is a problem area where the carbon rim is scratched, around that it does not want to comply with any truing efforts. Anyways I bent three spokes just like that and I was using a bladed spoke holder thingy. The spokes on the drive side are damn tight. So I took some pliers and the spoke holder and bent the back into place. Bad idea?

The wheel is better but I still get some brake grabbing on the bike. I was worried I would need new spokes or a full wheel rebuild. From what I recall the CX rays are stainless steel so can they take bending no problem?
oldpotatoe
10-26-2015, 05:02 AM
Crazy, I had the same thing happen to 3 spokes the other day. I was truing a carbon rear wheel which refuses to be trued. There is a problem area where the carbon rim is scratched, around that it does not want to comply with any truing efforts. Anyways I bent three spokes just like that and I was using a bladed spoke holder thingy. The spokes on the drive side are damn tight. So I took some pliers and the spoke holder and bent the back into place. Bad idea?

The wheel is better but I still get some brake grabbing on the bike. I was worried I would need new spokes or a full wheel rebuild. From what I recall the CX rays are stainless steel so can they take bending no problem?

You have something else going on..maybe a bulge right there at the grabbing?

Yup, spokes are stainless steel but thin..and expensive.
CampyorBust
10-27-2015, 08:19 AM
You have something else going on..maybe a bulge right there at the grabbing?

Yup, spokes are stainless steel but thin..and expensive.

Thanks, now that you mention it I did notice a few nipple bulges where the nipples push up against the rim from the inside. Is this the bulge you are referring to? Could this be the cause of the issue? I loosened up all the spokes on the on the drive side and it seemed to make things better, yet still the brake grabbing in that one area persists.

My wheel truing background is horrible at best it's the one thing I loathe about bike mechanics, there are so many variables. I took a wheel building class in the past and got the basics of building a wheel from new parts. Truing a wheel that has seen a fair amount of use is a totally different animal to me and fat bike wheel truing seems to be a dark and mysterious craft.

Will try to post some pics today...
thwart
10-27-2015, 10:24 AM
The wheel is better but I still get some brake grabbing on the bike.

... now that you mention it I did notice a few nipple bulges where the nipples push up against the rim from the inside. Is this the bulge you are referring to? Could this be the cause of the issue? I loosened up all the spokes on the on the drive side and it seemed to make things better, yet still the brake grabbing in that one area persists.

I see a new rim in your future.
CampyorBust
10-28-2015, 08:01 AM
I see a new rim in your future.

Man I hope not. It rides fine but when braking I can feel it. Upon close inspection i noticed a dent in the carbon. Can carbon dent?

some pics...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j49/PedalPusher33/IMG_8431_zps3z0jcdqg.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j49/PedalPusher33/IMG_8433_zpscdc8peep.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j49/PedalPusher33/IMG_8430_zpsn17orrub.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j49/PedalPusher33/IMG_8435_zpsen0ndud2.jpg
lhuerta
10-28-2015, 08:36 AM
....definitely need a new rim. It appears there r several nipples beginning to pull through ur rim (bulging near the nipple bed) and cracks beginning to form on exterior (per first pic above). Not to mention the deep scuff (last pic) that is certain to effect braking. It appears this wheel has been ridden very hard or a zealous ham fisted "mechanic" over torqued the nipples, or both.
CampyorBust
10-28-2015, 08:55 AM
....definitely need a new rim. It appears there r several nipples beginning to pull through ur rim (bulging near the nipple bed) and cracks beginning to form on exterior (per first pic above). Not to mention the deep scuff (last pic) that is certain to effect braking. It appears this wheel has been ridden very hard or a zealous ham fisted "mechanic" over torqued the nipples, or both.

If the crack you are referring to is the line going through the 9 in the EC90sl, that is just the carbon weave, there are a few all over the wheels its the way they came. In all honesty I am not the best wheel truer in fact I suck, but I never trued these much if at all. However the whole wheel set did go back to Easton for a warranty claim on the front wheel (brake track issues) and rear bearing issues. They took care of the rear bearings and refused to warranty the front. I didn稚 buy it and sent it back and they did warranty the front wheel on the second attempt. Could these bulges and dent develop by themselves? No impact signs on the dent at all.

I am no clydesdale by any means and these wheels have always stayed on the road, I don't ride cross and refuse to ride this bike in the wet. These are my go fast wheels, but I am not that fast in the grand scheme of things. I might have taken them on a dirt road maybe three-four times at most. No cracks around the nipples however there are a few nipple bulges. The drive side spokes were insanely tight when I detensioned them a hair this week (1/2 turn all around I believe it was).

Oh and the gouge has been there for a very long time, I dont even remember how it happened. I was cleaning the bike one day and whoomp there it is! Must have been a rock, a monster rock, even my mtb wheels dont have gouges like this.
Mark McM
10-28-2015, 11:18 AM
It looks like the spoke in the bottom photo is necking at the transition between the round and flat sections (necking is when a portion of the member under tension plastically stretches, getting longer and thinner over a short span). This can happen when a spoke is twisted too hard (as when trying to adjust a nipple with stuck threads), and the combination of tension and torsion causes localized yield at the a weak point. This can either mean the spoke tension is too high, or that the nipples are frozen on the spokes (or both).
CampyorBust
10-29-2015, 10:57 AM
It looks like the spoke in the bottom photo is necking at the transition between the round and flat sections (necking is when a portion of the member under tension plastically stretches, getting longer and thinner over a short span). This can happen when a spoke is twisted too hard (as when trying to adjust a nipple with stuck threads), and the combination of tension and torsion causes localized yield at the a weak point. This can either mean the spoke tension is too high, or that the nipples are frozen on the spokes (or both).

Yeah I took it at a weird angle, its one of the twisted spokes I could not straighten very well.

Apologies to the OP if I am derailing this thread.