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AngryScientist
10-21-2015, 01:31 PM
winter project!

just bought a set of ambrosio excellight ssc rims here on the forum 32 hole.

at the recent swap meet, located a new hope road hub and picked up a campy daytona front hub, 32h cheap.

i weight 135#

what spokes/nips should i use to build these up for a sweet light set of wheels?

peanutgallery
10-21-2015, 01:49 PM
You're a light guy, 15 guage and brass nipps. 3 cross

Or double butted and a little light on the tension spectrum+. Please don't torture yourself with aluminum nipps

Never really like going 2 cross at more than 28 holes. Call me crazy

oldpotatoe
10-21-2015, 03:43 PM
winter project!

just bought a set of ambrosio excellight ssc rims here on the forum 32 hole.

at the recent swap meet, located a new hope road hub and picked up a campy daytona front hub, 32h cheap.

i weight 135#

what spokes/nips should i use to build these up for a sweet light set of wheels?

Sapim Laser or DT Revolutions front and left side rear. Sapim Race or DT Comps right side rear, brass locking nipples.

ergott
10-21-2015, 04:05 PM
Sapim Laser or DT Revolutions front and left side rear. Sapim Race or DT Comps right side rear, brass locking nipples.

Second this.

fuzzalow
10-21-2015, 04:22 PM
Wanna try something different? Go for lacing the entire shebang with Sapim Lasers. Standard brass on the nipples. Yeah, Lasers even on the rear drive side. To go Lasers for your weight and at 32 spokes will be a non-issue.

This is the same setup on these tubulars on my Eriksen shown below, only on 28 spokes. This wheel set is going on 7 or 8 years now and I have taken to using them as my regular wheel set riding Manhattan streets to and fro the Park or 9W.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hlhxCeJNM90/U91wAj3OjTI/AAAAAAAAApI/gw3GA9FAJO8/s640/DSC00766.JPG

The only difference for your set would be I would not lace your front radially because the look is off to me with 32 spokes - too many spokes.

I would always take oldpotatoe's advice as from one who knows. But I would say that the recommendation come shaded perhaps by the commercial reality of erring on the conservative side as far as stability and longevity in choice of wheel components. When you build 'em yourself, as I do also, you can press the envelope a little more because you alone are accountable for the consequence of what you design, lace, build, tension and ride. And that makes for, what I consider, a better cycling experience. Nuthin' like havin' your own neck on the line and provin' it!

ergott
10-21-2015, 04:30 PM
I've built/ridden all Laser wheels like those 32/3X etc. and found the rear wheel to be too soft for me. Same hubs, same rims.

Just my opinion. Obviously more than one way to skin a cat.

TimD
10-21-2015, 05:21 PM
Anti-seize, Loctite (purple), or Spoke Prep on the spoke threads?

AngryScientist
10-21-2015, 05:37 PM
Anti-seize, Loctite (purple), or Spoke Prep on the spoke threads?

I'm old school with that. Boiled linseed oil all the way.

echappist
10-21-2015, 06:05 PM
Wanna try something different? Go for lacing the entire shebang with Sapim Lasers. Standard brass on the nipples. Yeah, Lasers even on the rear drive side. To go Lasers for your weight and at 32 spokes will be a non-issue.

This is the same setup on these tubulars on my Eriksen shown below, only on 28 spokes. This wheel set is going on 7 or 8 years now and I have taken to using them as my regular wheel set riding Manhattan streets to and fro the Park or 9W.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hlhxCeJNM90/U91wAj3OjTI/AAAAAAAAApI/gw3GA9FAJO8/s640/DSC00766.JPG

The only difference for your set would be I would not lace your front radially because the look is off to me with 32 spokes - too many spokes.

I would always take oldpotatoe's advice as from one who knows. But I would say that the recommendation come shaded perhaps by the commercial reality of erring on the conservative side as far as stability and longevity in choice of wheel components. When you build 'em yourself, as I do also, you can press the envelope a little more because you alone are accountable for the consequence of what you design, lace, build, tension and ride. And that makes for, what I consider, a better cycling experience. Nuthin' like havin' your own neck on the line and provin' it!

completely off topic, but that's a P-R-O looking bike with the SRM, tubulars, and classic round handlebars

54ny77
10-21-2015, 06:13 PM
Fuzz I just made an appointment with my chiropractor after viewing your Eriksen picture. It triggered a back spasm.

;)

(and a damned fine looking bike i must say!)

Wanna try something different? Go for lacing the entire shebang with Sapim Lasers. Standard brass on the nipples. Yeah, Lasers even on the rear drive side. To go Lasers for your weight and at 32 spokes will be a non-issue.

This is the same setup on these tubulars on my Eriksen shown below, only on 28 spokes. This wheel set is going on 7 or 8 years now and I have taken to using them as my regular wheel set riding Manhattan streets to and fro the Park or 9W.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hlhxCeJNM90/U91wAj3OjTI/AAAAAAAAApI/gw3GA9FAJO8/s640/DSC00766.JPG

The only difference for your set would be I would not lace your front radially because the look is off to me with 32 spokes - too many spokes.

I would always take oldpotatoe's advice as from one who knows. But I would say that the recommendation come shaded perhaps by the commercial reality of erring on the conservative side as far as stability and longevity in choice of wheel components. When you build 'em yourself, as I do also, you can press the envelope a little more because you alone are accountable for the consequence of what you design, lace, build, tension and ride. And that makes for, what I consider, a better cycling experience. Nuthin' like havin' your own neck on the line and provin' it!

Plum Hill
10-21-2015, 06:55 PM
Sapim Laser or DT Revolutions front and left side rear. Sapim Race or DT Comps right side rear, brass locking nipples.

OK, locking nipples are a new one for me.
School me, please. Is the lock accomplished through a nylon-like insert?
Can the nipple be easily turned years down the road?

JLP
10-21-2015, 11:03 PM
Second this.

Game over.

Anarchist
10-21-2015, 11:42 PM
winter project!

just bought a set of ambrosio excellight ssc rims here on the forum 32 hole.

at the recent swap meet, located a new hope road hub and picked up a campy daytona front hub, 32h cheap.

i weight 135#

what spokes/nips should i use to build these up for a sweet light set of wheels?

One of the two best clincher rims made. Excellent.

oldpotatoe
10-22-2015, 05:54 AM
I've built/ridden all Laser wheels like those 32/3X etc. and found the rear wheel to be too soft for me. Same hubs, same rims.

Just my opinion. Obviously more than one way to skin a cat.

Agree. I have 2 front wheels, 36h:D, laced one with Revs and one with DT Comps, same rims(Campagnolo Lambda tubie rims), same tires(Vittoria Corsa Elte), and I think the Rev wheel 'feels' softer..YMMV...

oldpotatoe
10-22-2015, 05:56 AM
OK, locking nipples are a new one for me.
School me, please. Is the lock accomplished through a nylon-like insert?
Can the nipple be easily turned years down the road?

DT uses some goop in there, Sapim a wee dent or punch mark on the nipple side. I like Sapim..for HIGH dish wheels, like all 11s, locking nipps are a nice benefit.

Google Sapim SecureLock nipples and DT ProLock.

Avincent52
10-22-2015, 06:30 AM
I personally think the OP isn't thinking big enough.
He shouldn't build wheels as a winter project.
He should build himself.
He shouldn't apply that linseed oil to his spokes.
He should drink it.
The Joey Chestnut Competitive Eaters Diet.
Double that 135, Nick; 270 here I come.

http://cyclebuttcrack.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/fat-cyclist.jpg
Angry Scientist, May 2016

yakstone
10-22-2015, 06:55 AM
I personally think the OP isn't thinking big enough.
He shouldn't build wheels as a winter project.
He should build himself.
He shouldn't apply that linseed oil to his spokes.
He should drink it.
The Joey Chestnut Competitive Eaters Diet.
Double that 135, Nick; 270 here I come.

http://cyclebuttcrack.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/fat-cyclist.jpg
Angry Scientist, May 2016

Now that's funny!

Formulasaab
10-22-2015, 07:17 AM
I'm old school with that. Boiled linseed oil all the way.

+1 That's my preference as well.

fuzzalow
10-22-2015, 11:13 AM
completely off topic, but that's a P-R-O looking bike with the SRM, tubulars, and classic round handlebars

Thanks but I truly posted that picture to show the wheels. I've reposted that photo so many times I've beaten it to death already. I NEVER recommend something I don't directly know about so it was to validate what I said to AS about wheels w/Lasers all-in. Not to be defensive in any way but simply to be credible.

Fuzz I just made an appointment with my chiropractor after viewing your Eriksen picture. It triggered a back spasm.

;)

(and a damned fine looking bike i must say!)

No back spasm need apply. Just ride in a fit & position that doesn't come at the expense of your spinal discs.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J8l_tTnyqM8/VNGQWYFTNSI/AAAAAAAAAyU/iBfCFDnEoZs/s1024-no/fuzz-drops-eriksen.jpg

ergott
10-22-2015, 11:23 AM
That you Fuzz?

Good, flat back.
:beer:

fuzzalow
10-22-2015, 11:30 AM
That you Fuzz?

Naw, that is just some wanker sitting on my Eriksen in the hallway of our apartment pretending something about some Cancellara guy. Strike a pose!

oldpotatoe
10-22-2015, 01:09 PM
Anti-seize, Loctite (purple), or Spoke Prep on the spoke threads?

Boiled Lindseed oil on threads, Mobil 1 between nipp and rim.

54ny77
10-22-2015, 01:41 PM
if there's one saving grace in an otherwise bad back situation, it's that my l4/l5 benefit from tilting forward (i.e., sitting on bike opens things up), as opposed to compressing it worse. if it was the other way around, i'd either not be on this forum (or thinking about bikes), or be under the knife to fix it already.



No back spasm need apply. Just ride in a fit & position that doesn't come at the expense of your spinal discs.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J8l_tTnyqM8/VNGQWYFTNSI/AAAAAAAAAyU/iBfCFDnEoZs/s1024-no/fuzz-drops-eriksen.jpg

echappist
10-22-2015, 02:24 PM
OK, locking nipples are a new one for me.
School me, please. Is the lock accomplished through a nylon-like insert?
Can the nipple be easily turned years down the road?

For Sapim, the thread pitch on the spoke and the groove pitch inside the nipple are just slightly off. Other than using oil for initial tensioning, no need to thread lockers or spoke prep. From what i was told, you should be able to turn it years down the road.

Thanks but I truly posted that picture to show the wheels. I've reposted that photo so many times I've beaten it to death already. I NEVER recommend something I don't directly know about so it was to validate what I said to AS about wheels w/Lasers all-in. Not to be defensive in any way but simply to be credible.



i actually would go either CX-Ray or just go Sapim Race if i were building them myself.

Gsinill
11-26-2015, 05:36 PM
I am about to place an order for spokes (Sapim Race and Laser).
Never used the Secure Lock nipples and was wondering whether they require to be held in place preventing them from twisting during tensioning?

Do I need one of those?
https://www.universalcycles.com/images//products/large/8806.jpg

Spin
11-26-2015, 06:49 PM
If you lube the threads and mark the spokes you probably won't need it.

oldpotatoe
11-27-2015, 06:02 AM
I am about to place an order for spokes (Sapim Race and Laser).
Never used the Secure Lock nipples and was wondering whether they require to be held in place preventing them from twisting during tensioning?

Do I need one of those?
https://www.universalcycles.com/images//products/large/8806.jpg

Not really. They aren't so tight to really wind up the spokes that much. It kinda takes the 'feel' away tho. Since the nipple is harder to turn. Not hugely hard but w/o lock nipps, effort translated to tension(still checked with tensionmeter) but with locking nipps..don't have that.

With now all 130mm hubs with the RH flange so far inboard..I think some sort of locking nipps almost essential, at least for LH rear..but I use Sapim 14mm SecureLocks all around.

Gsinill
11-27-2015, 07:19 AM
Not really. They aren't so tight to really wind up the spokes that much. It kinda takes the 'feel' away tho. Since the nipple is harder to turn. Not hugely hard but w/o lock nipps, effort translated to tension(still checked with tensionmeter) but with locking nipps..don't have that.

With now all 130mm hubs with the RH flange so far inboard..I think some sort of locking nipps almost essential, at least for LH rear..but I use Sapim 14mm SecureLocks all around.

Thanks Peter.
One more, what is the criteria for 12 vs. 14mm nipples (I am using Nemesis rims)?

Cheers
GS

wolfstone636
11-27-2015, 11:09 AM
Sapim Laser

oldpotatoe
11-27-2015, 11:55 AM
Thanks Peter.
One more, what is the criteria for 12 vs. 14mm nipples (I am using Nemesis rims)?

Cheers
GS

I calculate length and round down. Since a lot of hub holes pretty big. Then I still get enough spoke/nipple thread engagement. Kinda makes up for rim/hub irregularities. Never want threads showing or spoke past nipple. Plus some aero-ish rims easier to grab more nipple with spoke wrench. Like CXP-33s.

As for couple of above suggestions, just imho, CX-Ray cost a bunch and are still thin spokes. Laser thin and even for the OP, wouldn't use them right side rear.