PDA

View Full Version : Easily restored?


Tickdoc
09-22-2015, 07:40 PM
Bought this frame a while back and thought it would make a fun beater build.

It's never been built, still has the tag on it, but has some rust issues from what was probably bad storage.

Is this an easy fix? Strip, smooth, clean, touch up re Spray? The threads look intact, but the bubbling under the lugs has me just a little concerned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Handgod/D2B38E5B-DF15-444B-BFC5-F93258B748C2_zpsl6labi2m.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Handgod/ECE6E978-B8B8-4993-AFF1-F7B0B57CA71F_zpsr3mczdmg.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Handgod/62877507-A663-45D1-87A1-F02721831F4D_zpsqd0tokps.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Handgod/A03302E1-43A1-4749-BAF6-7F651736B14F_zpsgbydce91.jpg

Louis
09-22-2015, 07:59 PM
Looks to me like that's going to take quite a bit of elbow-grease to clean up.

Is the frame worth it?

jmoore
09-22-2015, 08:05 PM
That'll buff right out.

likebikes
09-22-2015, 08:10 PM
looks fine to me. for a beater i'd invest minimal time/effort/money into fixing it up.

just use an old steel bb cup and plenty of oil to chase out the threads. and use plenty of grease and you'll be fine.

Louis
09-22-2015, 08:14 PM
http://www.mannmusicjourney.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Neil-Young-Rust-Never-Sleeps.jpg

buldogge
09-22-2015, 08:28 PM
If you don't want to go thru the trouble of stripping it and repainting or pc'ing then I would start with a mild oxalic acid bath.

Follow this with mechanical abrasion/sanding/scraping of the affected areas and then tape off the tubes and spray the lugs with a rust converter/primer followed by a reasonable/cheap paint match.

Framesaver.

Time + $25.

Enjoy.

-Mark in St. Louis

Tickdoc
09-22-2015, 08:30 PM
If you don't want to go thru the trouble of stripping it and repainting or pc'ing then I would start with a mild oxalic acid bath.

Follow this with mechanical abrasion/sanding/scraping of the affected areas and then tape off the tubes and spray the lugs with a rust converter/primer followed by a reasonable/cheap paint match.

Framesaver.

Time + $25.

Enjoy.

-Mark in St. Louis

That's what I had in mind. What is this oxalic bath you speak of?

ultraman6970
09-22-2015, 08:41 PM
The good news is that the paint match wont be complicated to find, just go with the frame to a car paint store (not a repair body shop to a place where those shops get their paint at) and look at the paint chips... get half a pint.

The concorde decals are in the internet (front tube) so thats good news too...

1st thing.. BB... just find somebody with the taps and facing tool... that will clean that oxidation right away, even if you lose like a millimeter or two off the shell is not like is going to cause a problem. Probably you wont need to paint retouch the shell. JUst some naval jelly and good to go.

Front tube... pretty much the same process, you need to find a guy with the front tube reamer and facing tools, once that's done I would 1st try to sand the rust off the lug because is under the paint or just leave that with naval jelly for a few hours and see how it turns out... some primer and then retouch it with the closer color you can find with an airbrush... or maybe spend 5 bucks in a preval unit. Some ingenuity will help you too.

Congrats you got a nice frame in there :)

Hope this helps.

F150
09-22-2015, 08:50 PM
What in the world would cause that corrosion pattern if, in fact, the thing was never built? Just the BB face and DT-HT lug? I'd clean, strip and respray no more than necessary, as only the BB faces and bottom of headtube look like they need help. Lay it on it's side and dip only the gnarly 1/4" or so. Same for bottom of HT, which looks like half a headset might have been installed at some point.

Could that BB shell end up at 65mm (or less) before you know it? Rust looks more like someone slathered refried beans on it.

buldogge
09-22-2015, 08:52 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10501-Wood-Bleach-Black/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442972871&sr=8-5&keywords=oxalic+acid

Can grab it at any decent hardware or paint store.

Mild dilution...1-2 tbs. per gal.

-Mark

That's what I had in mind. What is this oxalic bath you speak of?

Tickdoc
09-22-2015, 09:12 PM
The good news is that the paint match wont be complicated to find, just go with the frame to a car paint store (not a repair body shop to a place where those shops get their paint at) and look at the paint chips... get half a pint.

The concorde decals are in the internet (front tube) so thats good news too...

1st thing.. BB... just find somebody with the taps and facing tool... that will clean that oxidation right away, even if you lose like a millimeter or two off the shell is not like is going to cause a problem. Probably you wont need to paint retouch the shell. JUst some naval jelly and good to go.

Front tube... pretty much the same process, you need to find a guy with the front tube reamer and facing tools, once that's done I would 1st try to sand the rust off the lug because is under the paint or just leave that with naval jelly for a few hours and see how it turns out... some primer and then retouch it with the closer color you can find with an airbrush... or maybe spend 5 bucks in a preval unit. Some ingenuity will help you too.

Congrats you got a nice frame in there :)


Hope this helps.

Very helpful. Thanks and it sounds a little daunting, but it seems like a worthy winter project.

Tickdoc
09-22-2015, 09:13 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10501-Wood-Bleach-Black/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442972871&sr=8-5&keywords=oxalic+acid

Can grab it at any decent hardware or paint store.

Mild dilution...1-2 tbs. per gal.

-Mark

Cool. I can handle that.

Tickdoc
09-22-2015, 09:15 PM
What in the world would cause that corrosion pattern if, in fact, the thing was never built? Just the BB face and DT-HT lug? I'd clean, strip and respray no more than necessary, as only the BB faces and bottom of headtube look like they need help. Lay it on it's side and dip only the gnarly 1/4" or so. Same for bottom of HT, which looks like half a headset might have been installed at some point.

Could that BB shell end up at 65mm (or less) before you know it? Rust looks more like someone slathered refried beans on it.

My guess it was stored on a cold wet floor or stacked on ground where water would occasionally stand.

rustychisel
09-22-2015, 09:26 PM
My guess it was stored on a cold wet floor or stacked on ground where water would occasionally stand.

I'd say so. Standing in puddled water on BB and head tube. Errk. Agree it'll clean up nicely.

paredown
09-23-2015, 09:06 AM
I like my Concorde--they were Ciocc/Bilatto built (never got clear if both Ciocc and Concorde were ordering from Bilatto, or if Concorde bought through Ciocc). Nice classic Italian frames.

I think even if you had to respray the head tube area, and pop on a new decal it would not be too hard to mask from head tube lugs forward, and just respray the silver area.

CampyorBust
09-23-2015, 10:18 AM
Careful with that oxalic acid stuff, I hear it can make you sterile, no joke. Having said that it can do a good job on rust, it can also stain that paint job.

The frame is not in too bad a shape, certainly decent enough to be a daily beater.

Here is what I would do

Get some fine and super fine steel wool and baby oil. Dip the steel wool in the oil and work the rust lightly, taking care not to damage the paint. If you have a small wire brush try to get the treads as clean as possible. Reface that BB for sure and chase the threads. It shouldn't take too long to get it a lot cleaner. After all is as clean as can be, go to your local hobby shop. Pick up some model Testors paint, you should be able to match that grey pretty good straight out of the bottle. If not find one as close as possible and get some white and black (or darker grey with metal flake if need be). Touch up let dry, then hit me up with a pm for my classified clear coat secret. Clear coat the frame, build up the bike and enjoy!

ultraman6970
09-23-2015, 11:36 AM
"Careful with that oxalic acid stuff, I hear it can make you sterile??????""

No wonder i heard that if you eat too much oranges you might end up shooting blanks! :D

F150
09-23-2015, 02:04 PM
I'd say so. Standing in puddled water on BB and head tube. Errk. Agree it'll clean up nicely.

THAT's what a nice soggy shag will get you!

CampyorBust
09-23-2015, 08:09 PM
"Careful with that oxalic acid stuff, I hear it can make you sterile??????""

No wonder i heard that if you eat too much oranges you might end up shooting blanks! :D

LOL

:eek: Now you got me thinking, so I just googled foods that contain oxalic acid...

http://www.raw-foods-diet-center.com/oxalic-acid.html

I'm in trouble now, I have been chowing down on Concord grapes (while their in season) like there is no tomorrow. Not to mention all the other stuff.

Ralph
09-23-2015, 08:25 PM
If I was being lazy....and planned to repaint the whole thing, I would have it bead blasted, and take all that rust and scale off. About $25-$30 around here. I don't mess with chemicals anymore.

ultraman6970
09-23-2015, 08:35 PM
All depends a lot of how much he can take off after the reaming and facing process... IMO the BB pretty much will get cleaned right away.

The front tube will get pretty good but the area around the bottom lug might need to be refinished, honestly it is not that much area to repaint either, dont worth time to refinish the whole frame you know.