Campy Record Threaded Headset Question...

[jimbolina]

I'm having more difficulty than I anticipated trying to get the exact torque value on tightening the locknut on the Campagnolo Record threaded (1'') alloy headset.

I went to the Campy website and pored through their technical documentation to no avail. Rats!

Does anyone have that correct spec?

Thanks.

[Joxster]

Didn't have torque settings back in the day, it's somewhere between face turning red and purple ;)

[drewellison]

You have to use the old school thin Campy headset tools - one on the race and one on the locknut. Then you tighten until the locknut wrench slips and you wrap your knuckles on the other tool or on the top tube. Curse, then quit. It's tight enough.

[eBAUMANN]

just tighten it until there isnt any play in the steerer when rocking back and forth with the front brake engaged.
tightening the top nut...just snug it up while holding a flat wrench on the bearing cap to hold it in place.
done and done!

torque specs arent out there because they arent required, you gotta go by feels.
also, if this is a modern campy threaded headset we are talking about, the top bearing cover cant really be overtightened due to the design of the lip on the outer edge of the cup.
so you can pretty much just tighten it all the way on there until it stops and then throw the top nut on top.

[FlashUNC]

Until there's no more play or it won't go down anymore. Either works.

[jimbolina]

Thanks guys.

Yes, I have the thin Campy wrenches and everything. Have years of experience with the ol' Nuovo Record (steel) headset. I snugged-down the top race cover until there was zero rocking (with the front brake engaged).

I was just not sure how much torque I should apply to that top nut without stripping it as it's alloy.

[axel23]

No need to over-tighten, just check periodically. Alternatively, you can snug it up from the bottom. Loosen the bottom cup against the top nut - works like a charm.


Thanks guys.

Yes, I have the thin Campy wrenches and everything. Have years of experience with the ol' Nuovo Record (steel) headset. I snugged-down the top race cover until there was zero rocking (with the front brake engaged).

I was just not sure how much torque I should apply to that top nut without stripping it as it's alloy.

[Hindmost]

The torque for tightening the lock ring against the top cup? I'd say "lightly firm." The risk here is that the wrenches can tear-up the ring and cup flats if too much force is used.

I like to do a second test of headset adjustment. Lift the bike a couple of inches by holding the center of the top tube and tip the bike gently side to side. Does the front end readily respond? Or does it hesitate?

The headset is adjusted well if there is no rocking during the brake test and it responds smoothly when tipped.

[ultraman6970]

Overtight the bottom one a little bit, then hold the top one and lose the bottom one so it gets tight and you get no play.

[jimbolina]

Thanks guys! I'll just snug it up good.

[austex]

I'd say you are unlikely to strip the threads, the wrench will bugger the nut flats sooner...

[jimbolina]

^
You're probably right about that.

[smontanaro]

You have to use the old school thin Campy headset tools - one on the race and one on the locknut.

Avoid chewing up your locknut and use an adjustable wrench on the locknut. Thin headset wrenches are really only intended to use on the upper race where there isn't much room (and the race below and locknut above keep them from flying off). An adjustable wrench will give you much better purchase on the locknut, and there are no clearance issues there which necessitate the use of the thin headset wrench.