Home brew vs. Finish Line Dry, long term testing.

[Tony]

Between my wife and I we have many bikes, mtbs, road, cross, old three speed cruisers. I've been using Finish Line Dry, teflon on all the bikes for some time and like this lube. I've tried many over the years and the finish line has worked best for me. Around six months ago I decided to try one of the home brews that was mentioned here in one of the many chain lube threads. I chose a 3 to 1 mix using Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic and mineral spirits. I compared the two between the two bikes I ride most, both get about equal time on the road. Both chains get wiped down after the first 50 miles and after that lubed around 300 to 400 miles. I'm sold on the home brew. Works as well or better than the finish line and cost is much cheaper.

[Slow Eddie]

...I chose a 3 to 1 mix using Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic and mineral spirits....

So, 3 parts motor oil to 1 part mineral spirits? Most of the formulas I'm familiar with are the other way around.

My personal mix is 3:1 OMS:chain+bar oil. Works as well as ProGold ProLink, or Rock-N-Roll Gold, my two standby commercial products.

I do have a bottle of Chain-L that I am going to try on a few builds-in-process that require new chains. Interested to see how it stacks up; I've heard good things.

[Tony]

So, 3 parts motor oil to 1 part mineral spirits? Most of the formulas I'm familiar with are the other way around..

The 0W-20 is very thin. This 3 to 1 mix works very well!

[mg2ride]

The 0W-20 is very thin. This 3 to 1 mix works very well!

I use the opposite ratio in part because it makes for a better parts cleaner and still works just as well as a lube.

Mostly I use that ratio because mineral spirits comes in a larger container.

[bigbill]

When I lived in the PNW, I had two bottles, one was 3:1 mineral spirits to oil for the wet winter and 4:1 for the drier summer. Here in NE Texas it's 4:1 all the time. I'm currently using Royal Purple as my oil.

[Birddog]

I do have a bottle of Chain-L that I am going to try on a few builds-in-process that require new chains. Interested to see how it stacks up; I've heard good things.
I've been using this stuff for almost 3 years (one bottle for three bikes) and it is great lube, lasts a long time too (300 to 400 miles). The downside is that it attracts everything. You have to wipe off your drivetrain regularly. It gets especially gunky on the jockey wheels. My next lube will be Nix Frixion sp?.

[makoti]

Between my wife and I we have many bikes, mtbs, road, cross, old three speed cruisers. I've been using Finish Line Dry, teflon on all the bikes for some time and like this lube. I've tried many over the years and the finish line has worked best for me. Around six months ago I decided to try one of the home brews that was mentioned here in one of the many chain lube threads. I chose a 3 to 1 mix using Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic and mineral spirits. I compared the two between the two bikes I ride most, both get about equal time on the road. Both chains get wiped down after the first 50 miles and after that lubed around 300 to 400 miles. I'm sold on the home brew. Works as well or better than the finish line and cost is much cheaper.

I tried this, the home brew route. It was cheap, but I had to re-apply every 100 miles or so. Drive train was always noisy. Ended up going to NFS. So much easier and quieter. If it's working for you, that's great. I wish it had for me, but it just got annoying.

[regularguy412]

Just started using Home Brew myself this year. So I'll put in my .02.

I had previously been using Prolong Spray Lube at about $12.99 per can. So it's not 'that' expensive, but not cheap either cuz in my area, it's mail-order only. I did a little research on the ingredients in the Prolong (read the MSDS online). It's basically Naptha and 30W oil with a butane propellant (and a few other whiz-bang ingredients). So armed with that info, I decided I could do as well on my own.

I made up an approx. 3:1 ratio of Coleman Camp Fuel:Pennzoil 5W-20 Full Synthetic. This one is for use on the chain only (for better penetration into the roller/pin interface).

I also made up another applicator bottle with the same ingredients, but in exactly the opposite quantities: 3 parts 5W-20:1 part Camp Fuel. This one is for other parts like Der pulleys, Der pivots, brake pivots, etc.

So the Prolong worked very well to lube the chain/rollers but really collected dust and dirt and was pretty mucky. Had to use a brake cleaner to really get that stuff off when it was time to re-lube.

The Home Brew is MUCH better, IMHO. It lubes just as well, if not better, than the Prolong. It darkens up a bit between re-lubings, but it never seems to collect a lot of dust or dirt (gunk up) and it's really easy to clean off when time to lube again. I just use a little WD-40 (as a solvent) and the chain is as clean as a whistle. The chain runs dead quiet with the Home Brew and still shifts like new. I've not noticed excessive stretch on this chain and I have over 2,000 miles on it this year. (Just installed in May 2015).

I'll prolly never buy any bottled chain lube again, as long as I can still make my own.

Mike in AR:beer:

Edit: Once upon a time I tried some White Lightning dry lube. NEVER again.

[Tony]

I'll prolly never buy any bottled chain lube again, as long as I can still make my own.

Mike in AR:beer:

Edit: Once upon a time I tried some White Lightning dry lube. NEVER again.

Same, done buying chain lube, excellent results with this home brew!

[Louis]

If I used significant amounts of chain lube then I might be interested in trying home-brew, but given that one bottle of ProLink lasts me several years, the cost savings aren't nearly enough to overcome the convenience of the simply using the pre-bottled commercial stuff.

Maybe I'm just not riding enough...

[twors]

Motor oils are to thin for me, turning my chain black in little time. Chain saw bar oil is better but kinda sticky to wipe off. 90wt gear is where I ended up till I found some heavy snythetic oil at work and thats where I'm at now. Its good for a easy 150 miles in normal road conditions. I've mixed it with OMS anywhere from 25% to 50% oil and really cant see a big difference. These 10 and 11 speed chains are pretty loose in design and its doesnt seem to take much for the oil to penetrate IMO.

[avalonracing]

If I used significant amounts of chain lube then I might be interested in trying home-brew, but given that one bottle of ProLink lasts me several years, the cost savings aren't nearly enough to overcome the convenience of the simply using the pre-bottled commercial stuff.

Maybe I'm just not riding enough...

Wow, you guys must use A LOT of lube. If something works better sure I'd try it but I simply wipe the chain, put on some Finish Line Ceramic Lube and wipe it again before every ride or two and my chain is quiet clean and I go through maybe two bottles a year at the cost of $20 total.

Again, if a home brew works better I'd be up for trying it but the Finish Line I use is the slickest stuff I've ever touched. You can literally feel the difference if you rub your fingers together.

[Tony T]

I do have a bottle of Chain-L that I am going to try on a few builds-in-process that require new chains. Interested to see how it stacks up; I've heard good things.

It stinks. (very strong smell).
This is ok if you don't keep your bike in the house.

[regularguy412]

Wow, you guys must use A LOT of lube. If something works better sure I'd try it but I simply wipe the chain, put on some Finish Line Ceramic Lube and wipe it again before every ride or two and my chain is quiet clean and I go through maybe two bottles a year at the cost of $20 total.

Again, if a home brew works better I'd be up for trying it but the Finish Line I use is the slickest stuff I've ever touched. You can literally feel the difference if you rub your fingers together.

There's nothing wrong with using what you like. For me, I was looking for something I didn't have to order online. My 'local' bike shop is a 25 mile drive, one-way. So the home-brew route werks fer mi.

Mike in AR:beer:

[yakstone]

I've tried various blends but currently use NFS and have been happy with it.

[MattTuck]

You guys that get 100+ miles out of a lube, do you ride 100% pavement?

I cleaned my chain before yesterday's ride that included 5 or 10 miles of dirt. The thing is nearly black already...

My ideal chain lube would be something that doesn't attract ANY dirt/grime. I'd rather have to apply after every ride, than do a deep cleaning of the chain once a week.

[twors]

You guys that get 100+ miles out of a lube, do you ride 100% pavement?

I cleaned my chain before yesterday's ride that included 5 or 10 miles of dirt. The thing is nearly black already...

My ideal chain lube would be something that doesn't attract ANY dirt/grime. I'd rather have to apply after every ride, than do a deep cleaning of the chain once a week.

Try a heavier oil in your mix. In my experiance, heavier oils stay put better and are longer lasting. Chains on my road bikes haven't been off bike all summer. They clean up easily when lubing with fresh oil.

I know of no lube thats lasts long riding gravel. Gravel has to be the harshest environment for a chain period. My whole bike looks like hell in about 40 miles of gravel.

The home brew simply works better than lubes at my LBS. I have not tried Chain L or NFS as they are not available locally.

[Louis]

You guys that get 100+ miles out of a lube, do you ride 100% pavement?

Yes.

[54ny77]

those of you using motor oil thinned with [whatever thinner], why do you thin it?
only reason i ask is i use mobil 1 (5/30, since that's what i had a quart of at the time) straight up. no rhyme or reason why that weight or unthinned, i just tried it on a fluke one day. works like a charm and i get typically ~150 miles per small application. sometimes more, sometimes less (depending on weather/road conditions). a quart will, at the current rate, last me into another 3-4 presidential terms...

[CunegoFan]

those of you using motor oil thinned with [whatever thinner], why do you thin it?

Using a solvent allows it to more easily penetrate the chain, disolve gunk, and drip off carrying the gunk and grit. The OMS then evaporates leaving a thin film of oil.

One of the nice things about homebrew is that it is cheaper than dirt so you can use it liberally and let the black stuff drip off your chain.

[regularguy412]

Using a solvent allows it to more easily penetrate the chain, disolve gunk, and drip off carrying the gunk and grit. The OMS then evaporates leaving a thin film of lubricant.


^^ this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ctcyclistbob]

I tried this, the home brew route. It was cheap, but I had to re-apply every 100 miles or so. Drive train was always noisy.

Not sure if you waited before riding, but when I didn't it was very noisy as well.

The OMS then evaporates leaving a thin film of oil.


Waiting for the OMS to evaporate makes a world of difference.

[Steve in SLO]

Another homebrewer here. I generally use OMS:used (yes used) 5-30 synthetic motor oil in an approx. 3:1 ratio and typically apply a bit before a ride.
Reusing Prolink bottles and saline bottles from my contact lenses has worked well.

[regularguy412]

OK. So. I have to update this thread. And take this for what it's worth.

I was cleaning my chain and lubing it again tonite in preparation for tomorrow's ride with the guys after work. I decided to actually measure the chain stretch on this Ultegra chain that I put on new this spring (also new Ultegra cassette) when I built up my Serotta Fondo TI. I have approx. 2,000 miles on this chain and I ride mostly in the big ring; not because I'm all that strong, but it's not too hilly around here.

Bottom line: I measured NO chain stretch. Not just a little, or a small amount. But NONE. I'm honestly thinking to myself how this can be. So I put it off to two things. First, I _am_ using this home brew lube for the first time ever -- which I'm sure helps a lot. But maybe the most important thing is that I'm running it on a brand new Dura Ace hollow (five arm), two-piece big ring that is made out of STEEL. I'm thinking that the steel ring just doesn't wear like an aluminum ring and therefore doesn't cause the chain to wear as quickly. This is the first time I've ever used a steel big ring on a 'real' road bike (had a few on beaters when I was a kid, but those don't really count).

I'm interested to see just how long it takes before I can actually see some measurable wear. I do know how to measure stretch, and it's not with a 'chain checker'. I use a metal ruler. The 12-inch mark is dead center on the 12-inch pin with the leading end centered half way on the 'first' pin. First time I've EVER seen something like this. Pretty amazing.

Mike in AR:beer: