Campagnolo Q. Gap between shifter paddle and brake lever

[R3awak3n]

I just noticed this. On my right lever there is a huge gap between the shifter paddle and the brake lefter but on the left the gap is minimal. The bike shifts perfectly and I just noticed this. Is this normal and just a production discrepancy? Are there many out there like this? My record shifters look exactly the same, these are centaur.

I took some pictures:

Right:
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r522/r3awak3n/IMG_2816.jpg

Left:
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r522/r3awak3n/IMG_2815.jpg


I really do not care if there is a gap since it shifts perfectly but was just curious how close can production come up with such errors.

Oh yeah I think its caused because the brake lever on the right does not shift flush with the pastic piece that holds it up top while the left does

[fourflys]

I could be wrong but I think I remember there is a set screw in the shifter that moves that paddle in and out for bigger/smaller hands...

[Steve in SLO]

Make sure that your brake release buttons (the top silver piece on the levers) are both pushed inboard. If the release button is pushed outboard, that puts it in the release position and increases the gap you are noticing.

[R3awak3n]

both brake release buttons are in the correct position and the gap is still like that on the right shifter.

[R3awak3n]

I could be wrong but I think I remember there is a set screw in the shifter that moves that paddle in and out for bigger/smaller hands...

I never heard of this, did a quick search and didnt find anything.

[cmg]

cable pulled tight on the brake?

[R3awak3n]

cable pulled tight on the brake?

Yeah, its pretty tight, as tight as the front brake which is the other lever.

[erslah]

Right and left are equidistant on mine (11-speed Chorus) and my wife's (10-speed Chorus) right now, but I do remember having this issue once. My memory is foggy, but I think I just released the button, took out the wheel, jiggled and fiddled with the paddle a bit, and then put everything back.

[oldpotatoe]

I could be wrong but I think I remember there is a set screw in the shifter that moves that paddle in and out for bigger/smaller hands...

No..there is a screw on the RH side that will move the shifter blade left and right but not in and out. I'm thinking it's just a manufacturing anamoly, some are, some aren't.

[R3awak3n]

Yeah I think so too.

Thanks everyone!

[Rudy]

No..there is a screw on the RH side that will move the shifter blade left and right but not in and out. I'm thinking it's just a manufacturing anamoly, some are, some aren't.

Is that right, oldpotatoe? Because my Chorus 10 speed shift blades are way outboard the brake levers. The adjustment is made on the rider's right side of each body (and under the hood, I imagine)? Must I release the cable or can I leave them rigged? I appreciate your advice.

[oldpotatoe]

Is that right, oldpotatoe? Because my Chorus 10 speed shift blades are way outboard the brake levers. The adjustment is made on the rider's right side of each body (and under the hood, I imagine)? Must I release the cable or can I leave them rigged? I appreciate your advice.

If you pull the hood back right under the 'C' of Campagnolo on the hood, is a little screw I think 1.5mm...BUT for newest shape, 2009 plus levers only, not Record/Chorus 10s.

[Rudy]

If you pull the hood back right under the 'C' of Campagnolo on the hood, is a little screw I think 1.5mm...BUT for newest shape, 2009 plus levers only, not Record/Chorus 10s.

That is, the tall Gumby hoods? Mine are the rounded knobs. No other work-around for these?

[oldpotatoe]

That is, the tall Gumby hoods? Mine are the rounded knobs. No other work-around for these?

Yes and no....no work around for older shape.

[gfk_velo]

It looks as if the RH brake lever is sitting slightly further back "into" the lever body than it should - the flat face of the brake lever should be exactly flush with "forehead" of the brake lever body - yours looks as if it is maybe .5 mm or so further in than that. Hard to tell on my tablet as I can't get the image to zoom for some reason. If that is the case, it's probably more a cosmetic fault than it is a technical one but we've not seen the problem before - it's as if the QR is of slightly smaller diameter than it should be, or there is some erosion of the recess in the lever body that the QR is pulled back into by the brake cable tension.

Another problem we sometimes see on levers that have been used a long while is erosion of the top of lever 2, that allows the lever to come further forwards than it should, so it comes closer to the back of the brake lever. This is usually seen on older and / or more heavily used levers or levers used in really dirty conditions - it can cause an irritating tendency for the lever to "block" on shift as sometimes lever 2 will interfere so much with the back of the brake lever that it does not travel as far as it should outboard after shifting, so the drive pawl at the top of it stays engaged with the drive ring that the thumb lever (lever 3) is trying to push in the other direction.

It might be worth a chat with your local Campag ProShop ...

[Bostic]

My 2014 10 speed Chorus shifters bought new off eBay. The brake cable is fully taut. Very annoying gap.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img540/1045/YepJbf.jpg