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warren128
08-31-2015, 02:20 AM
Thanks to a good friend of mine who heard that I was interested in trying a fixed gear bike, I picked up his fixed gear converted vintage Specialized Allez today. He is lending it to me to try out for a while, since he no longer rides it.

My friend used to ride extensively all over the SF Peninsula with this bike as part of his training routine, but for starters, I plan to ride it down to the SF Polo Fields soon to get some fixed gear practice. For those who don't know, the Polo Field is the site of a historic velodrome that has been there for many years. It's only a couple of minutes ride down a slight hill from my house to there, so I shouldn't get into too much trouble before I get there. :)

As luck would have it, he and I ride the same size frame, but he has longer legs so I will need to lower the seat before I ride with it. Gearing is low because that's how he liked it (40x17). My friend also built his own wheels for it, which is pretty cool, I think.

I'm glad that he left his DuraAce brakes on it. :)

In case you were wondering, I'm 57 years old, and I've been riding road bikes exclusively for a very long time, since I was a teenager, but I somehow never got around to riding a fixed gear until now. :)

Any words of advice from you experienced fixed gear riders before I venture out this week? (TIA)

http://www.fototime.com/764EBE121B65F42/large.jpg

Jaq
08-31-2015, 02:30 AM
Get yourself some skinny jeans, a beard, and a case of PBR.

Have a ball. I picked up a fixie/SS a couple years ago, and it's become my goto ride. I only ride SS though; I like to coast.

rustychisel
08-31-2015, 04:13 AM
Have fun, fun and fun.

Just don't try to do too much until you've worked out both your and the bike's capabilities. Show moderation in speed, handling and where you ride until you're conversant with the way things go on fixed gear. Your leg muscles and knees will give you an idea of how you're progressing (oh, and there is NO TRUTH to the rumour that fixed gear ruins your knees[unless you're an idiot]).

witcombusa
08-31-2015, 04:33 AM
Well just know that you have decades of learned muscle memory that you will have to override with your brain for awhile! Like when you come up over a rise and immediately want to coast :eek: But have no fear as the bike will 'remind' you in a not so subtle way to help you learn...

I find it a very pure , simple form of cycling and very enjoyable in the right environment.

Have fun!

numbskull
08-31-2015, 04:38 AM
This thread on BF has loads of useful information http://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/785252-training-your-first-fixed-gear-century.html

Ray
08-31-2015, 04:54 AM
You'll probably find it pretty easy to relax along with a spin in the 100-120 rpm range on slight downhill or tailwind sections. But on faster descents, you have to break through something like the sound barrier at around 125-130 rpm, where things get really rough and bouncy. But if you persevere, it can get much smoother after that, the difference being that you don't "relax" along with a 160-170 rpm stroke - you have to stay very aggressively on top of it (sort of stay ahead of it). To me, this was one of the great benefits of fixed gear riding - developing that ability to turn circles at very high rpm's.

I'm your age and I don't ride fixed anymore - I don't do anything on a bike hard-core anymore. But riding fixed was one of the most enjoyable things I ever did on two wheels and I did it a LOT for several years. Just have fun with it and be ready to have it teach you a few lessens as you briefly forget you're riding a fixie in the early days!

-Ray

bewheels
08-31-2015, 05:40 AM
In addition to what others have said, plan on shorter rides until you get used to it. If you generally consider a 1.5 hour ride an easy spin, plan on not being out for more than 1 hour for the first few rides on it.

All the spinning, grinding, etc will make you more tired until you are able to relax and get used to it.

Oh - and watch out for potholes and uneven road surfaces. You will likely be shocked to learn that you soft pedal, or coast for a second, while you unweight the seat over bad road surfaces. The fixed gear will quickly remind you that you can not coast or soft pedal for a brief second...

Take it easy at first and get used to it. If nothing else it forces you to think about riding the bike again.

oldpotatoe
08-31-2015, 05:57 AM
Had Moots build me a fixie and really enjoyed the simplicity of it. Really great for those crappy, wet days when you didn't want to muck up your 'nice' bike BUT...around here(Boulder, USA), it really limited where I could ride, 42/16, flip flop with a 17t SS freewheel on the other side. So, after about a year, back to Moots for all the stuff to allow a rear der, rear brake, shifter bosses. BUT it is fun.

USE a FRONT BRAKE. Unless yer gonna start wearing your sister's jeans and a wrinkled plaid shirt.

sjbraun
08-31-2015, 07:06 AM
Don't coast.

mtechnica
08-31-2015, 07:17 AM
IMO go to a bigger ratio like 48/17 or 46/16 or 15 because 40/17 is tiny and it won't be fun down hills or very fast on flats.

AJosiahK
08-31-2015, 07:30 AM
Don't coast.

yep,

going from a fixie commuter to my road rig, and back, it was tricky to keep my brain from doing such a thing.

Builds good habits I believe. Increased mindfullness of your surroundings and terrain, smooths out pedal strokes, and does NOT ruin your knees.

enjoy!

Gummee
08-31-2015, 07:34 AM
My Langster has 48/18 on it now. Good for what I have around here (flat), but maybe not so good for hillier terrain.

Important! DO NOT STOP PEDALING

As long as I've raced track and have ridden fixed on the road, I'll still try to do something and forget I'm on the fixie till it reminds me. If you do forget, let your knee buckle and it won't kick you off head first.

If you keep your knee stiff, you WILL highside. Those hurt.

I find myself grabbing my fixie when I have limited time to ride. Gotta make every pedal stroke count and you're always pedaling on the fixed gear. :nod

M

daker13
08-31-2015, 07:35 AM
The most important lesson I learned was, don't ride faster than you can stop. It takes a little more to bring a fixed gear up to cruising speed, and it takes a little longer for it to stop. Take that into account when passing cross streets, etc. I nearly t-boned several cars before figuring that out when I started riding one about 10 years ago.

chwupper
08-31-2015, 08:31 AM
For braking, use brakes. As for gearing, I traditionally have gone with a 46-16 here in Chicago on road style fixed gears. But last winter on my full-fendered, chunky-tired crosscheck, I went with 44-19. Loved it. Easy to spin into a stiff wind.

JAllen
08-31-2015, 08:42 AM
I think that's the big part of fixed or freewheel riding: finding the right gearing for most of your riding. If don't want to suffer on the hills, you'll suffer on the downhill or false flats. Vice versa. The simplicity and general durability is unbeatable though!

icepick_trotsky
08-31-2015, 08:42 AM
I agree with the others -- get a larger ratio. I may seem counter-intuitive, but spinning super fast on downhills before you get the hang of riding fixed is terrifying. A larger ratio will slow your cadence and be much easier to start out.

Ray
08-31-2015, 08:43 AM
For braking, use brakes.
I'd say use the front brake, but I'd be real careful with the back one. I was most comfortable controlling the back wheels speed with my feet - trying to combine that with a brake never worked for me in the least. And because you can't stop pedaling while you're braking, it's really tough to calibrate your legs to the sudden changes braking the rear wheel creates. So I'd recommend using the front brake to scrub big amounts of speed when you need to, but I'd get used to slowing with your legs as well. Everyone does it differently and you have to find what works for you, but I always found a rear brake more hassle than help on a fixed-gear.

Trying to ride completely brake free isn't a good idea either, at least until you REALLY know what you're doing and know you're comfortable hopping the rear wheel, stopping it, and then skidding to a halt. I never came close to nailing this technique, but at the very least I wouldn't try it until the rest of riding fixed is second nature to you...

-Ray

bjf
08-31-2015, 08:54 AM
I'd say use the front brake, but I'd be real careful with the back one. I was most comfortable controlling the back wheels speed with my feet - trying to combine that with a brake never worked for me in the least. And because you can't stop pedaling while you're braking, it's really tough to calibrate your legs to the sudden changes braking the rear wheel creates. So I'd recommend using the front brake to scrub big amounts of speed when you need to, but I'd get used to slowing with your legs as well. Everyone does it differently and you have to find what works for you, but I always found a rear brake more hassle than help on a fixed-gear.

Trying to ride completely brake free isn't a good idea either, at least until you REALLY know what you're doing and know you're comfortable hopping the rear wheel, stopping it, and then skidding to a halt. I never came close to nailing this technique, but at the very least I wouldn't try it until the rest of riding fixed is second nature to you...

-Ray

I agree; that rear brake makes me nervous. I rode a fixed gear a lot in my 30s, but then not until age 66. There's enough going on that's unfamiliar; the rear brake will complicate it tremendously. I'd even take it off, so you don't grab it out of habit. I did find that using just a front brake was not that hard to get used to. GL

rustychisel
08-31-2015, 09:19 AM
I agree with the others -- get a larger ratio. I may seem counter-intuitive, but spinning super fast on downhills before you get the hang of riding fixed is terrifying. A larger ratio will slow your cadence and be much easier to start out.

Sorry, sod that for advice, it's not good advice. Refer earlier posts about learning the capabilities before anything else, then experiment. Overgearing a fixed gear bike is about the best way to ensure it'll become a torture fest - the first time you try to ride ten miles home into a 25 mph headwind. Lore, wisdom and plain common sense combine on this one... ride a gear you can get on top of, not one which is always a struggle.

warren128
08-31-2015, 09:53 AM
Thanks for all the hints and encouragement, Everyone. I really appreciate it. I'll check back later this week and let you how how it went.

:)

bcroslin
08-31-2015, 10:06 AM
Be prepared for all sorts of leg muscles you never knew existed to hurt. Who knew your shin muscles could hurt so bad?!

zennmotion
08-31-2015, 10:51 AM
I'm in my mid-50s and much of my riding in the past decade or more has been on a fixed- all of my commuting, which is a large portion of my yearly miles and most of my "slow" rides off-season. It's also the bike I reach for when I'm out of shape or I just need a brain break- there is no magic to it, but I find it more engaging when I need a de-stresser with no objective, maybe stop for a view or sandwich or that %^&* Ben &Jerry's that's right at the turnaround point for many of my easy rides. I have the opposite advice regarding a rear brake- I have drop bars and like 2 brake levers (Tektro 340s have a nice shape similar to modern brifters, nicer than older vintage styles and they're not expensive). I have no knee problems, but I don't intend to bring them on as can happen by excessive use of your legs to slow- I use both brakes, mostly front but the rear as well when slowing down hill- it's easier to feather and modulate with two brakes rather than just the front+ backpedal force. Three "brakes" is even better, you can still gently use your legs to slow, but it's nice not to have to when you're spinning fast- thats what screws up your knees. In my opinion it's safer, not "riskier" to have a rear brake on rolling terrain- your brain will make the transition after a couple of rides, it's not a big deal really! And your knees will thank you. Getting started is often one of the awkward skills to develop on a fixed and really clumsy if you try to clip in one foot before you're in the saddle like you normally would. I do a slow and easy cyclocross-style mount- from standing beside the bike just swing your leg completely over the saddle and find both pedals with your feet at once, you can clip in as you're turning the cranks slowly. Not hard to do, just practice, and once you get it, it's a smooth graceful way to start. And if you race cross, you will perfect your re-mount by doing it in slo-mo on your fixie! I love riding fixed and after many years it feels as natural as freewheeling drivetrain- I think it's better and safer (with at least one and better two brakes) in urban traffic or MUTs mixing with pedestrians and baby carriages, easy to slow to an almost stop and balance while you wait for that dude with the dog on the long leash talking on his cell phone to give you space to pass. Everyone is different, but common wisdom is a gear of about 65-75inches for road fixies on flat or gentle terrain. I usually use a 42X16, or just under 70 inch gear- low enough to grind up short steep risers, pleasant spin on the flats without working hard, and allows downhills fast enough to be fun. Have fun, it won't take long to dial in your brain to a different feel, and it's a beautiful connected feeling. Your brain will love it.

zennmotion
08-31-2015, 11:09 AM
Be prepared for all sorts of leg muscles you never knew existed to hurt. Who knew your shin muscles could hurt so bad?!

Not so much if you use a rear brake! But my glutes and backs of my legs definitely get some work on long rides, mostly from staying seated and not being allowed a break from pedaling.

zennmotion
08-31-2015, 11:13 AM
Sorry, sod that for advice, it's not good advice. Refer earlier posts about learning the capabilities before anything else, then experiment. Overgearing a fixed gear bike is about the best way to ensure it'll become a torture fest - the first time you try to ride ten miles home into a 25 mph headwind. Lore, wisdom and plain common sense combine on this one... ride a gear you can get on top of, not one which is always a struggle.

+1^ High gears are for the velodrome and hipsters where spinning causes chafing with skinny jeans. Too high a gear will suck. I'd start at 65-75in. Maybe lower depending on general bike fitness.

azrider
08-31-2015, 11:34 AM
, and does NOT ruin your knees

Where did this ever come from??

I have started riding my SS more and everyone feels the need to tell me that I'll destroy my knees within a couple months.

yarg
08-31-2015, 11:43 AM
Keep your chain taut. Spinning down hills really fast can cause your rhythm to come unglued and will throw a loose chain. A loose chain inevitably will lock up your rear wheel and down you go. This is scary, I know from experience.

icepick_trotsky
08-31-2015, 11:45 AM
+1^ High gears are for the velodrome and hipsters where spinning causes chafing with skinny jeans. Too high a gear will suck. I'd start at 65-75in. Maybe lower depending on general bike fitness.

I'm not suggesting full on track gearing, but he's only at 40x17 (approx. 62 gear inches). That's pretty low.

professerr
08-31-2015, 12:02 PM
Where did this ever come from??

I have started riding my SS more and everyone feels the need to tell me that I'll destroy my knees within a couple months.

I trained on a fixed gear in college on flat-to-rolling winter rides with no trouble, but that said the only time I've ever had any problmes with my knees was when I started riding a fixed gear around the SF Bay area. Spinning down a long hill at a super fast cadence sans power or using my legs a lot to generate braking force didn't seem like a good idea and my knees quickly told me it wasn't. I'm not an orthopedist, but it just doesn't seem to me like the knee joints are designed for the sorts of loads and actions this sort of riding requires.

I still have a fixed year but only use it around town and on rare (and hard to find) flattish rides.

So to the OP, my advice is take it easy before you start trying to spin down some big hill at 160 rpm.

zennmotion
08-31-2015, 12:08 PM
I'm not suggesting full on track gearing, but he's only at 40x17 (approx. 62 gear inches). That's pretty low.

Agreed that's a good gear to start with. There was advice above to start with a gear on the high side, I take issue with that. :beer:

bironi
08-31-2015, 03:47 PM
I took up the fixed gear about 8 years back at age 55.
Give it some time to get used to it.
A buddy and I hated our first outing, but stuck with it.
I ride the fixed probably 90%+, gears come out for long rides or the mountains.
I ride with 165 cranks, this allows for sharp cornering without a pedal strike.
I would lose the toe clips and opt for an easy entrance/exit pedal like Frogs.
Have a beer or two and practice track stands on grass, the beer helps you relax.

witcombusa
08-31-2015, 04:43 PM
Agreed that's a good gear to start with. There was advice above to start with a gear on the high side, I take issue with that. :beer:

Since the beginning of time (well almost) the road standard for fixed gear bikes has been 60" for women and 65" for men. This is still a great starting point for anyone.

bironi
08-31-2015, 05:08 PM
I'm in my mid-50s and much of my riding in the past decade or more has been on a fixed- all of my commuting, which is a large portion of my yearly miles and most of my "slow" rides off-season. It's also the bike I reach for when I'm out of shape or I just need a brain break- there is no magic to it, but I find it more engaging when I need a de-stresser with no objective, maybe stop for a view or sandwich or that %^&* Ben &Jerry's that's right at the turnaround point for many of my easy rides. I have the opposite advice regarding a rear brake- I have drop bars and like 2 brake levers (Tektro 340s have a nice shape similar to modern brifters, nicer than older vintage styles and they're not expensive). I have no knee problems, but I don't intend to bring them on as can happen by excessive use of your legs to slow- I use both brakes, mostly front but the rear as well when slowing down hill- it's easier to feather and modulate with two brakes rather than just the front+ backpedal force. Three "brakes" is even better, you can still gently use your legs to slow, but it's nice not to have to when you're spinning fast- thats what screws up your knees. In my opinion it's safer, not "riskier" to have a rear brake on rolling terrain- your brain will make the transition after a couple of rides, it's not a big deal really! And your knees will thank you. Getting started is often one of the awkward skills to develop on a fixed and really clumsy if you try to clip in one foot before you're in the saddle like you normally would. I do a slow and easy cyclocross-style mount- from standing beside the bike just swing your leg completely over the saddle and find both pedals with your feet at once, you can clip in as you're turning the cranks slowly. Not hard to do, just practice, and once you get it, it's a smooth graceful way to start. And if you race cross, you will perfect your re-mount by doing it in slo-mo on your fixie! I love riding fixed and after many years it feels as natural as freewheeling drivetrain- I think it's better and safer (with at least one and better two brakes) in urban traffic or MUTs mixing with pedestrians and baby carriages, easy to slow to an almost stop and balance while you wait for that dude with the dog on the long leash talking on his cell phone to give you space to pass. Everyone is different, but common wisdom is a gear of about 65-75inches for road fixies on flat or gentle terrain. I usually use a 42X16, or just under 70 inch gear- low enough to grind up short steep risers, pleasant spin on the flats without working hard, and allows downhills fast enough to be fun. Have fun, it won't take long to dial in your brain to a different feel, and it's a beautiful connected feeling. Your brain will love it.

Well I'm in complete agreement with the above. I ride 68 gear inches. I have adopted the same cross mounting style. I get thrown when I jump on my multi-geared bike. Those damn pedal won't come around to my waiting feet.

FierteTi52
08-31-2015, 05:43 PM
It's fairly flat where I live and riding fixed is a blast! I have a 80's Raleigh Record Sprint that I converted over to a fixie. The bike rides great and is way nicer than the $300.00 fixies from Bikes Direct. As far as gearing, I'm a spinner and ride a 42x16 approx 69.5 gear inches. Here is a great calculator designed by the late Sheldon Brown.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

muz
08-31-2015, 06:26 PM
First, is your friend who loaned the bike Pablo by any chance? If so, I have an interesting story.

I have been riding fixed for over 10 years, just got back from riding PBP fixed gear. I still remember how intimidating it was to ride downhill with car traffic, I could not reach my water bottle for fear of swaying into the next lane. Take it easy, ride on flat roads before you get the hang of it. It's a lot of fun, I find a zen aspect to not having to worry about what gear you're in.

foo_fighter
08-31-2015, 06:36 PM
Watch your fingers when working on the drive train. Like using a rag to wipe the chain and forgetting it's fixed and then getting your finger caught.

FierteTi52
08-31-2015, 07:45 PM
Watch your fingers when working on the drive train. Like using a rag to wipe the chain and forgetting it's fixed and then getting your finger caught.

+100, my neighbor caught his finger in the drivetrain of his fixie while cleaning the chain. Lots of stitches, not a pretty sight.

p nut
08-31-2015, 09:47 PM
Fixed is fun. It's actually the only road bike I have at the moment, excluding a CX bike. I usually have mine geared around 70 (48x18) or 73 (47x17) gear inches. Good amount of climbing around here but it's doable.

If you decide to get a fixed bike, I highly recommend Wabi Cycles.

Some inspiration (but please use brakes):

https://vimeo.com/59996430

bironi
08-31-2015, 10:11 PM
Watch your fingers when working on the drive train. Like using a rag to wipe the chain and forgetting it's fixed and then getting your finger caught.

Another mention on the chain cleaning.
I lost about a 1/4" of my right index finger.
My typing is not as good, nor some wrenching tasks.
I wish I would have looked at Sheldon Brown's pics on the subject before my incident. I just did not know.
Be careful.

benito
09-01-2015, 02:28 AM
Its nice to hear from all the older guys what there experience has been like.

My two dirty pennies: rear cog is fixed/fixed. One gear ratio means business, the other side is geared alittle friendlier.

My favorite rides aren't necessarily the ones at race pace, but gentle rollers in a comfortable gear that allow me to play with momentum... the contrast of pushing up an incline that inevitably turns into a spinning drill on the downhill.

Throw in some vistas, and some smooth tarmac and its the simplest of pleasures.

warren128
09-01-2015, 02:40 AM
First, is your friend who loaned the bike Pablo by any chance? If so, I have an interesting story.

I have been riding fixed for over 10 years, just got back from riding PBP fixed gear. I still remember how intimidating it was to ride downhill with car traffic, I could not reach my water bottle for fear of swaying into the next lane. Take it easy, ride on flat roads before you get the hang of it. It's a lot of fun, I find a zen aspect to not having to worry about what gear you're in.

It's not Pablo, my friend's name is Corey. But I'd love to hear the interesting story anyway. :hello:

warren128
09-01-2015, 02:41 AM
I'm enjoying reading about all your FG experiences and advice. Much appreciated.

Thanks,

Warren

veloduffer
09-01-2015, 05:43 AM
I didn't read every post so this may have been already stated. Since you are constantly pedaling, most folks ease or coast when they reach the top of a hill and going into a corner. You can't lean the bike in a turn as far as a geared bike because the the pedal will strike the ground. - so prepare for slightly wider turns.

You may also want to try it with pedals before using clipless. Or at least a double-sided clipless pedal. You can't coast to get your foot in so you have to "chase" the pedal to finish clipping in. You don't want to be doing this in traffic with your head down.

I would also use a rear brake, not so for stopping as for bleeding speed on downhills if your legs can't keep the pace. That way you won't overheat the front brake.

Besides a better pedal stroke, you will also find yourself shifting less because you can power through inclines and speed up your legs on downhills and flats. Have fun!

muz
09-01-2015, 08:00 AM
It's not Pablo, my friend's name is Corey. But I'd love to hear the interesting story anyway. :hello:

In that case, the story is probably not applicable. Nobody mentioned it so far, but the frame you were given is quite special. I believe it's a first generation Yoshi Konno built Allez, of 3Rensho fame. Take good care of it, not too many of these around.

smontanaro
09-01-2015, 08:10 AM
Any words of advice from you experienced fixed gear riders before I venture out this week?

I wouldn't call myself "experienced", though I am slightly more chronologically experienced than you are (61). I built up a Trek 520 as a fixed gear commuter a couple years ago. The first couple days I rode quill pedals with no retention, then swapped them out for Look KeOs (which I have on all my road bikes). You will have a much easier time on take-offs than I do, as I'm riding 47x17. I like taking mine out on the road though. If the weather is iffy later this month, I will use it for the North Shore Century (http://evanstonbikeclub.org/nsc). I suspect you might find it a bit challenging to build up a head of steam with your low gearing unless you really love to spin.

redir
09-01-2015, 08:16 AM
MY first track bike was in 1987, a silver and red Panasonic, I loved the hell outta that bike till the day it got stolen :( I've not since been without either a track bike or a fixed conversion. I don't ride my current track bike much these days since I live in the mountains now but once in a while she comes out for the commute. As a matter of fact since this thread has surfaces It think I'll pump up the tires, oil the chain, and ride her into work this week :D

SteveFrench
09-01-2015, 08:32 PM
As far as gearing goes, run what your brung.

bewheels
09-01-2015, 09:49 PM
Another poster made a good point about pedals. I used mtb clipless. Easier in and out then road clipless.

19wisconsin64
09-03-2015, 04:58 PM
I ride fixed gear bikes 99% of the time and ride only with clip in pedals when going on a bike that will go anywhere past 15 miles an hour.

You have far, far more control of the bike, not just in pedaling power but also in slowing down.

Also, you will be far more connected to the whole gearing/direct drive motion that leads a lot of folks (like myself) to really enjoy the "Zen" experience of riding fixie bikes.

Nice bike, by the way! Cheers

warren128
09-06-2015, 12:50 PM
To follow up on my first post of this thread, I had a chance to take my very first ride last week. Like I planned, I went took the short ride through the streets to the Polo Field in Golden Gate Park.

This has been a very entertaining and informative thread for me, reading all your advice and experiences wrt riding FG bikes. Thanks for that, guys. :beer:

I rode for many years (70s through the 80s) with toe clips, straps, and cleats. I made the switch to clipless in the 90s, and mtb style SPD pedals have been my pedal of choice since then. Well, 2 blocks after I gingerly rode off from my house, I made the decision to turn around and head home to remove the toe clips (for the time being). Using the clips AND trying to get accustomed to mounting and dismounting a FG was not what I wanted to do at the time.
After I removed the toe clips, I carefully rode down the hill, making much use of the brakes on the bike until I got to the park.

I rode around the track for a while and I started understanding how to ride a fixed gear bike. After a bunch of laps, I ventured out to the park itself, and after a while, I realized that I began to control my speed without using the brakes. My riding style, out of necessity, became more thoughtful and measured, my pace became steadier, and for now, much slower than when I'm on a FW bike.

I enjoyed the first ride immensely, and I will be continuing to experiment and ride the bike more before I have to return it to my friend. Eventually, I think I'll try it with a pair of my SPD pedals on it.

Thanks for reading this, and for contributing to my education on FG bikes.

Here are a couple of shots from that first ride.


http://www.fototime.com/54B014BCD041FD2/large.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/B42BFA2CF386153/large.jpg

warren128
09-06-2015, 01:02 PM
In that case, the story is probably not applicable. Nobody mentioned it so far, but the frame you were given is quite special. I believe it's a first generation Yoshi Konno built Allez, of 3Rensho fame. Take good care of it, not too many of these around.

Unfortunately, I need to return the bike to my friend. It has sentimental value for him, since it is his first race bike. He ordered it as a frame in 1982, and built it up with a Campy SR groupset. After he got a new bike for racing, he converted this one to a fixed gear.

I'm not sure whether or not this is a 3Rensho because it does not have the characteristic (and beautiful) long point lugwork, nor does it have the forward canted fork crown. Even so, the lug work is very well done, and the non-drive side chainstay has the "designed by Tim Neenan" decal. Also, the seatstay caps are concave and plainly finished, not engraved. It's definitely a first series Allez, and it would be interesting to know who built it.

Size is 55 c-c, with 168mm cranks, 110mm stem, Dura-Ace brakes, Peugeot Crankset, Campy Record pedals, etc.

paredown
09-06-2015, 01:38 PM
Unfortunately, I need to return the bike to my friend. It has sentimental value for him, since it is his first race bike. He ordered it as a frame in 1982, and built it up with a Campy SR groupset. After he got a new bike for racing, he converted this one to a fixed gear.

I'm not sure whether or not this is a 3Rensho because it does not have the characteristic (and beautiful) long point lugwork, nor does it have the forward canted fork crown. Even so, the lug work is very well done, and the non-drive side chainstay has the "designed by Tim Neenan" decal. Also, the seatstay caps are concave and plainly finished, not engraved. It's definitely a first series Allez, and it would be interesting to know who built it.

Size is 55 c-c, with 168mm cranks, 110mm stem, Dura-Ace brakes, Peugeot Crankset, Campy Record pedals, etc.
There's been an ongoing thread on the early history of the Specialized Allez on Road Bike Review (http://forums.roadbikereview.com/retro-classic/some-specialized-history-190991.html), and some of the earlier designers have shared their knowledge.

What I can remember--you have the 3Rensho (details on how to spot 'em here (http://vintage3rensholove.blogspot.com/2011/01/specialized-allez-3rensho-built.html)), a short-lived arrangement with Dave Tesch (who started with Masi California) and then production bikes from Miyata. After, they were made at the then-fledgling Giant factory in Taiwan. Lots of design input from some big names along the way--diNucci, Tim Neenan, BB Bainbridge, Jim Mertz....

bironi
09-06-2015, 06:19 PM
It,s great it has the short cranks. Try some sharp cornering with your spds.

Asudef
09-08-2015, 03:29 AM
A few tips:

Don't go too fast at the polo fields, there's a high chance of high siding since its not banked.

When you get going fast, its harder to scrub speed but if just cruising, you can come almost to a stop quicker than you think.

If you're climbing seated, it helps not to fight the gear instead just coax and maintain momentum. Not sure I'm explaining this right but I used to force my pedals hard on group rides to keep up but noticed that relaxing and just focusing on keeping the pedals moving with minimal effort is just as quick, maybe just marginally slower but you save so much more energy.

Also, this may be a personal thing since I commute on a brakeless bike but try not to rely on your brakes that much, you become so much more aware and several steps ahead of traffic. It also helps you read traffic much better as a result. Lots of people tend to yell or wait for people to move in MUPs but its better to just take a different path around obstacles completely, same thing in traffic.



When I moved to SF about 5 years ago, my commutes were all on a heavy fixed gear with F/R brakes on platforms and a 48/15 ratio. Admittedly too high but it was my main commute for 2-3 yrs and I have no knee issues. Climbing 20th ave to/from school just sucked hard, I don't remember it ever getting easier. Bought a track frame dirt cheap with no brake holes a year ago and am running 47/17 on it with no issues, even with all the brakeless "stopping". I also run occasionally (hiked up Mt Diablo today and ran part way down) and my knees are fine, if anything riding fixed makes any knee issues go away. I use what they call Frogs almost exclusively after having a scary mishap with clipless brakeless fixed in my early days. You can't ted shred with clipless shoes. Love how simple it is, just hop on and ride, hop off and go about my day. I'm thinking of trying 47/17 so I can spin more.

Fixed gears got me into bikes during the way early fixie days. Its been close to ten years now I believe. I can still remember how much I hated the ~1% incline up away from my house, being so tired on my first ride I snagged my bars and fell a few blocks from home, getting destroyed and sandbagging on my first fast group ride to eventually starting my own group ride later on.