Ticking/clicking sound ... possibly from bottom bracket?

[ontarget]

I notice a light ticking/clicking sound when pedaling hard, and especially when out of the saddle climbing. Here are some details:

Bike: Fuji Altamira LTD, Campy Record 10-speed with the exception of crank, which is SL-K Light Megaexo with FSA BB86 compatable BB, wheels are Ksyrium SSC.

Rider: 142 pounds, not particularly powerful, but fit and capable of going and going like an Energizer bunny.

I've had the bike for a few months and have put about 600 miles on it. It has made this noise the whole time, and I've been trying to isolate/cure it.

The headset seems appropriately adjusted (no play, not overly tight)

I had heard that loose hub bearings cause Ksyriums to tick/click. The front was indeed a tab loose. I adjusted, but it didn't have an effect on the noise.

I've checked all bolts, and all are tight, including chainring bolts and the crankarm bolt.

Unrelated to my efforts to isolate this noise, I attempted to install an SL-K (not the "light" model) compact crankset last Friday. It didn't work out due to a compatibility problem (see my other post regarding this issue). However, while my crank was off the bike I checked the BB bearings. The drive side was nice and smooth, but the non-drive side was a little "crunchy". I took three layers of seals off, intending to clean and lube it, but there's a translucent plastic contraption around the ball bearings that doesn't seem to come out. I'm not sure what it is or how to get to the balls. I put the seals back and reinstalled the crank with plenty of grease on the spindle and splines. It still makes the noise.

So, my questions are these:

1) Could my crunchy BB be causing the described noise?
2) How urgent is a new BB installation? I know this may be tough to answer ...

Any advice will be much appreciated.

[Louis]

There are only a few hundred different things on a bike that can make noise when climbing out of the saddle...

It should be easy enough to check the BB - just lift the chain off the small ring and put it onto the BB shell. You should now be able to freely spin the cranks to check them out.

In my experience, unless you wait way, way too long, there's no real danger with riding a bit long on a BB that's going bad.

[VTCaraco]

I'm not wrench (by any stretch of the imagination), but I was chasing an elusive clicking that was inconsistent. Swapped pedals, and voila, clicking is gone.
Worth a check if you have a set you could swap out....

[rugbysecondrow]

Are you cranking on the handlebars when you are driving? Maybe check the pedals.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ontarget]

Thanks for the replies so far.

I didn't mention it in my original post, but I've used two different sets of pedals and the sound is there with each.

The sound is there whether or not I torque on the handlebars. It's there out of the saddle (when torqueing on the handlebars), but it's also there when seated and peddling hard (mashing, not spinning).

[aaron 1804]

I had a chain sound like this after a ride in the rain on a slightly sandy MUT. I didn't think to clean and lube it again because I just had. I went so far as to replace the bottom bracket before I finally considered it might be the chain.

A good cleaning and fresh lube was what made all the difference. Gotta love a smooth and silent drivetrain.

[bcroslin]

Make sure to really tighten the rear skewer. 9 times out of 10 that's the source of a creaking bottom bracket.

[zmudshark]

I had an elusive click on a Campy 10s drivetrain, only in lower (climbing) gears. A hub repack solved the problem.

Apart from the recent thread here, this is a great place to start with bike noises:
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html

[fa63]

I once had a similar noise on my Record 10 equipped bike. Turned out to be the cassette in my case. Took it off, cleaned everything, put some grease on the freehub, put the cassette back on with the appropriate torque and the noise disappeared.

[charliedid]

Turn up the volume.

[rustychisel]

Make sure to really tighten the rear skewer. 9 times out of 10 that's the source of a creaking bottom bracket.

Good one. As mentioned, it can be a 100 different things, but...

pull wheels and clean axle stubs and QRs and dropouts, then smear a little grease on the axle stubs and replace wheels.... is noise still there... swap wheels... if it's wheel noise then possible cassette carrier (freewheel) needs servicing.... or dry spoke joint 'ticking' (most often at spoke rim interface)...

[ultraman6970]

did you check the quick releases??? sometimes the sound comes from the front one and it sounds that was the BB.

[lhuerta]

If in fact you have isolated the clicking/creaking to the BB and the bearings check out, then the only solution is to install the BB cups using Loctite 609 and Loctite Primer 7649. This installment procedure is FINALLY becoming an industry standard for so-called preset BBs....even Campagnolo recently released instructions calling for the use of Loctite 609 with their "press fit" BB adapter cups.

[oldpotatoe]

I notice a light ticking/clicking sound when pedaling hard, and especially when out of the saddle climbing. Here are some details:

Bike: Fuji Altamira LTD, Campy Record 10-speed with the exception of crank, which is SL-K Light Megaexo with FSA BB86 compatable BB, wheels are Ksyrium SSC.

Rider: 142 pounds, not particularly powerful, but fit and capable of going and going like an Energizer bunny.

I've had the bike for a few months and have put about 600 miles on it. It has made this noise the whole time, and I've been trying to isolate/cure it.

The headset seems appropriately adjusted (no play, not overly tight)

I had heard that loose hub bearings cause Ksyriums to tick/click. The front was indeed a tab loose. I adjusted, but it didn't have an effect on the noise.

I've checked all bolts, and all are tight, including chainring bolts and the crankarm bolt.

Unrelated to my efforts to isolate this noise, I attempted to install an SL-K (not the "light" model) compact crankset last Friday. It didn't work out due to a compatibility problem (see my other post regarding this issue). However, while my crank was off the bike I checked the BB bearings. The drive side was nice and smooth, but the non-drive side was a little "crunchy". I took three layers of seals off, intending to clean and lube it, but there's a translucent plastic contraption around the ball bearings that doesn't seem to come out. I'm not sure what it is or how to get to the balls. I put the seals back and reinstalled the crank with plenty of grease on the spindle and splines. It still makes the noise.

So, my questions are these:

1) Could my crunchy BB be causing the described noise?
2) How urgent is a new BB installation? I know this may be tough to answer ...

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Noises can be vexing. In the shop, this is the 'process', starting with the most likely culprit.
-Ride the bike w/o cycling shoes-noise?
-swap pedals-noise?
-swap the rear wheel-noise?(Mavic famous for noisy rear wheels-FH body-not bearings normally)
Try to isolate, pedaling/not/seated/standing
-Headset?
-Stem/handlebars?
-BB?Chainring bolts?

FSA is not the most reliable/quiet stuff out there also...I wouldn't be surprised it's the BB/Crank.

[Kobe]

I recently had the same problem. After replacing the bottom bracket it turned out to be the Sequino non drive side crank arm. It was more of a creak than a tick though.

[ontarget]

Definitely some good tips about a few things I haven't checked. I'll try greasing the dropouts, QRs, and axle stubs, as well as a little oil where the spokes contact the nipples and hub. It's easy and couldn't hurt.

oldpotatoe: Thank you for that checklist. You're always a great resource!

Kobe: What was it about the NDS crankarm that was making noise?

And just one point of clarification: I'm not at all convinced this noise is the BB. Rather, I just noticed that the NDS bearing is a little crunchy, which is the first thing I've noticed that isn't right, and wanted to see if that is likely the cause. There's certainly a way to find out, and eventually the BB will need replacing anyway.

[oldpotatoe]

Definitely some good tips about a few things I haven't checked. I'll try greasing the dropouts, QRs, and axle stubs, as well as a little oil where the spokes contact the nipples and hub. It's easy and couldn't hurt.

oldpotatoe: Thank you for that checklist. You're always a great resource!

Kobe: What was it about the NDS crankarm that was making noise?

And just one point of clarification: I'm not at all convinced this noise is the BB. Rather, I just noticed that the NDS bearing is a little crunchy, which is the first thing I've noticed that isn't right, and wanted to see if that is likely the cause. There's certainly a way to find out, and eventually the BB will need replacing anyway.

Do yourself a favor and get a decent crank/BB that is quieter, more reliable. Anything from Campag or shimano.

[Gfi3]

I'm currently dealing with your same issue. Solo rides drive me mad listening to that tick with every pedal stroke...only when putting down decent power though same as you. I really am running out of options though. So far I have tried:

Replacing BB
Swapping pedals
Greasing chain ring bolts
Tightening headset
New chain
Removed, cleaned, re-tightened cassette

The only thing I see here I haven't tried is swapping out the wheels, guess I'll give that a go.

If you do find the culprit please be sure to share!

[thunderworks]

Have you checked to make sure your seat post is tight? Pull the seat post and add some carbon paste (if carbon) or grease . . . I've found a surprising frequency of seat related clicks and noises.

[ontarget]

I bought the bike used and haven't changed anything significant. It came with the described crankset. Since it's Campy equipped everywhere else, I certainly wouldn't mind a Campy crankset. New ones are expensive. Anyone want to part with a used compact that's BB86 compatible? (If this question in this location violates forum rules, moderator please delete. I intend no disrespect.)

[rab]

I had a similar issue with some K-Forces a few years ago.
Turns out the issue was the female threaded pedal insert in the crank had become just ever so slightly loose in the carbon fiber crankarm.
This happened despite using prescribed pedal washers.

Can be hard to discern but this was the cause of a similar sounding mysto-creak. About drove me insane trying to figure out. Bad news was there was no fix, just an offer from FSA for a discount on a new crank purchase. (It was a few years after purchase so outside any warranty)

Also agree with the greased skewers/contact points on dropouts. And trying to swap wheels to help isolate.

Also, possibly the saddle? Also had a funny squeak from a saddle rubbing on the rail during harder efforts, seated of course. Inside of thigh pressed it against rail.

FWIW I am a lightweight/non-power rider.

good luck!

[twangston73]

Recently I had a mysterious tick that turned out to be caused by a loose cassette, so that line of suggestions is top of mind for me.

On a humorous note, I was in a shop recently where a customer had brought his bike in to troubleshoot a ticking sound. They tore in to it only to realize that the metal cap end on the extra cable coming off the front derailleur was in the way of the pedal - every stroke was accompanied by a faint tic. Laughter ensued.

[LegendRider]

As others have suggested, I'd put a drop of lube on the front quick release / drop out interface.

[whateveronfire]

I have it too, but have just attributed it to the triple Tiagra 9S that is, well, Tiagra. I may try the pedal thing.

[Ralph]

I once had a similar noise on my Record 10 equipped bike. Turned out to be the cassette in my case. Took it off, cleaned everything, put some grease on the freehub, put the cassette back on with the appropriate torque and the noise disappeared.

I've had same issue (won't call it problem because it was my doing) with a Campy 10's loose cog cassette. When assembling the cogs and spacers, didn't make sure they sat tight against each other before I snugged down the lock ring. Even with recommended TQ, some larger cogs were just a tad loose, and would crack and pop. So took cassette apart again, reassembled the cassette taking the time to make sure each cog sat tight against it brother, and it made more room on end for 13, and popping went away.

[Gfi3]

Thanks to the suggestions on here the tick/creak is now GONE!

Even though I had swapped pedals previously, turns out I was missing the pedal washers and the pedals were all gunked up. Cleaned the pedals, added the washers and thin layer of grease and wallah...no more creak!

Wasn't even going to ride yesterday, but had to go out for 10 miles just to enjoy the silence.

[ontarget]

OK, problem solved! I really wanted to know what the problem was, so I tried one thing at a time and finally found the culprit. The ticking was coming from the rear wheel (Mavic Ksyrium) where the spoke heads contact the hub. A drop of light penetrating oil on each spoke head, followed by some flexing of the spokes, and presto ... ticking sound gone! What a relief. I like my bike again :-)

Again, thank you to everyone who offered a suggestion!