Clamping a frame in a workstand

[velomonkey]

This is a pic from a SF shop posted to their instagram - talking about building up a fixie.

When I worked in a shop if you clamped a frame to a stand you got a stern talking to, doubly so if you clamped it with a punny shop rag.

Am I missing something or did this become OK?

[8aaron8]

I have always been weary. Someone told me about the two finger method, if you can't clamp it with two fingers it's too tight, but I usually rest the seat over the clamp.

[alancw3]

so if it were me and i was using a frame mounted bike stand then i would use a sacrificial seat post.

[ultraman6970]

JUst to start i would not even dare to clamp an aluminum frame. thats why have to use seatpost. Steel is another tihng but with aluminum frames like that one in the picture no rag will save it from a dent if the guy doesnt know what he is doing, and even knowing... to me seatpost is the way to go with that aluminum cinelli.

[Grant McLean]

Am I missing something or did this become OK?

It was always ok,
then the internet raised fear of everything to hysterical levels,
now maybe it's back to ok?

If you know what you're doing, there is no risk of the frame
bursting into flames. If you're careless you could scratch the paint.
That's a crime punishable by death these days.

-g

[Cicli]

I agree, just throw a seatpost in there. Never clamp on a frame. Its the wrong way to do it. :bike:

[Grant McLean]

I agree, just throw a seatpost in there.

there is a seatpost in there.

[velomonkey]

there is a seatpost in there.

So then pull the post up and clamp the post . . . why would you clamp a brand new frame?

I clamp my post with the same punny shop rag and my enve decals have rubbed off.

or use this $53 and be done

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Internal-Seat-Clamp/dp/B00781X48O

[Grant McLean]

I clamp my post with the same punny shop rag and my enve decals have rubbed off.


i charge extra for that service.

-g

[sandyrs]

So then pull the post up and clamp the post . . . why would you clamp a brand new frame?

I clamp my post with the same punny shop rag and my enve decals have rubbed off.

or use this $53 and be done

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Internal-Seat-Clamp/dp/B00781X48O

My guess is carbon post, aluminum frame and they didn't want to clamp the carbon post

[mg2ride]

It was always ok,
then the internet raised fear of everything to hysterical levels,
now maybe it's back to ok?

If you know what you're doing, there is no risk of the frame
bursting into flames. If you're careless you could scratch the paint.
That's a crime punishable by death these days.

-g

Here you go spewing more common sense!

EVERYTHING in life is relative. Not all aluminum tubes are beer can thin.

You may notice that he is using his left arm to counter the force being applied. As long as you are careful it will be fine.

If you aren't careful you can screw anything up regardless of material or how you clamp it.

Clamping the tubes presents the same kind of risk as using a roof rack. You just got to be aware!

[Grant McLean]

EVERYTHING in life is relative. Not all aluminum tubes are beer can thin.
... You just got to be aware!

Exactly. I probably wouldn't clamp a customer's frame that way either.
(although i, like everyone else, did this for years before carbon, when nobody
ever gave it a second thought) I stopped when bikes started to get a lot
of stickers, and the risk was messing up the finish.

The structural issue is far overblown. A front derailleur clamp produces higher
clamp tension than the stand. Tubes aren't that easy to dent with a large
area clamp. Mostly, i find it amusing that such a thing generates web forum
outrage. There are plenty of improper procedures performed by under-skilled
and poorly trained mechanics, but the frame tube clamp seems to cause a lot
of apoplectic reactions.

-g

[Ralph]

I clamp my 28.6 custom steel frames by the seat tube. I have an older Park stand with a 1 1/4" setting (31.8mm), and I just use a shop rag on the 28.6 tube. Not in the slightest concerned. Although am careful.

[velomonkey]

Exactly. I probably wouldn't clamp a customer's frame that way either.


I worked in a shop form 91 to 95 - well before Carbon became mainstream. We were told never to do this because it WAS a customer's frame - fast forward to present day and this is a customer's frame, too.

I'm just making an observation and asking if something changed - seems it didn't. I find it funny that a shop - which claims to be pro (most do) would publicly post a picture of clamping a frame and protecting it with a feeble rag.

You said you wouldn't clamp a customer's frame the way - ergo you agree (MG I write off, completely, he would argue 10k bikes need a kickstand if I said otherwise).

[R3awak3n]

best work stand ever

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Feedback-Sports-Sprint-bicycle-workstand03.jpg


front wheel comes of in 2 secs (disk is a bit more annoying), rotates so you can work on both sides of the bike. feels nice and sturdy so its totally ok to work on the bb without the stand moving all over the place.

Only annoying thing is working on the front end (brakes, thats it) of the bike but it works fine as well and you have to do it 1 time.

[oldpotatoe]

This is a pic from a SF shop posted to their instagram - talking about building up a fixie.

When I worked in a shop if you clamped a frame to a stand you got a stern talking to, doubly so if you clamped it with a punny shop rag.

Am I missing something or did this become OK?

It's dumb. Most decent shops have build posts or tools the you clamp onto. Can you clamp the seat tube w/o hurting it? Yes But hacks abound and you can scratch paint at best or crush a seat tube(seen that on a steel serotta). Just dumb, no reason to do it.
Been wrenching now for 30 years and it was never proper in the 5 shops I worked in and never in the one I owned.

Btw, I have seem front der clamps deform seat tubes too. Litespeed Ghasallo.

[Grant McLean]

I find it funny that a shop - which claims to be pro (most do) would publicly post a picture of clamping a frame and protecting it with a feeble rag.


My issue with the photo would be that he's not using a torque wrench.

-g

[makoti]

best work stand ever

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Feedback-Sports-Sprint-bicycle-workstand03.jpg


front wheel comes of in 2 secs (disk is a bit more annoying), rotates so you can work on both sides of the bike. feels nice and sturdy so its totally ok to work on the bb without the stand moving all over the place.

Only annoying thing is working on the front end (brakes, thats it) of the bike but it works fine as well and you have to do it 1 time.

Can't make out the brand, but I like that...

[Grant McLean]

Can't make out the brand, but I like that...

https://www.feedbacksports.com/shop/sprint-work-stand/

[LouDeeter]

I don't get nearly as concerned with the seat tube as I do when you see someone clamping the center of the top tube, which is usually the thinnest part of the tube if butted. I've received enough bikes with slight dents on the seat and top tubes that were likely from clamps that it just doesn't make sense when you can get all the work done easily with a seat post installed. I keep 27.0 and 27.2 old aluminum posts around just for that purpose.

[CampyorBust]

Clamp only on the seatpost on all my bikes. On the nice vintage Campagnolo Aero seatposts I will use a rubber for safety. An old clean rubber mtb grip split open and wrapped around the post or a very thick piece of packing foam works too but that only last a few times.

Since there is an actual seatpost in the frame already its off to the woodshed for this chap.:no:

[velomonkey]

It's dumb.

The shop owner with competent wrenches has spoken.

[Gummee]

The shop owner with competent wrenches has spoken.

The devil's in the details. *Most* people clamping *most* bikes won't screw things up.

...but...

When you've had to explain to your boss that you just crimped the seat tube on a customer's bike, you tend to NOT clamp a bike by anything other than the seatpost ever again. (luckily that's not been me, but I've seen it done by other guys I've worked with)

M

[regularguy412]

best work stand ever

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Feedback-Sports-Sprint-bicycle-workstand03.jpg


front wheel comes of in 2 secs (disk is a bit more annoying), rotates so you can work on both sides of the bike. feels nice and sturdy so its totally ok to work on the bb without the stand moving all over the place.

Only annoying thing is working on the front end (brakes, thats it) of the bike but it works fine as well and you have to do it 1 time.

Just got this exact same stand this past May. LOVE IT!

Mike in AR:beer:

[weisan]

Please refer to this clip for proper clamping technique.

https://vimeo.com/133432406

http://alicehui.com/pics/clamp.jpg (https://vimeo.com/133432406)

[bikinchris]

This is a pic from a SF shop posted to their instagram - talking about building up a fixie.

When I worked in a shop if you clamped a frame to a stand you got a stern talking to, doubly so if you clamped it with a punny shop rag.

Am I missing something or did this become OK?

No, not with a Park work stand. Maybe with the twist style stands, if you are careful.
But if you clamp a carbon frame in a park stand? You need your butt kicked on the spot.

[bcroslin]

best work stand ever

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Feedback-Sports-Sprint-bicycle-workstand03.jpg


front wheel comes of in 2 secs (disk is a bit more annoying), rotates so you can work on both sides of the bike. feels nice and sturdy so its totally ok to work on the bb without the stand moving all over the place.

Only annoying thing is working on the front end (brakes, thats it) of the bike but it works fine as well and you have to do it 1 time.

AGREED. Love mine.

[Leoner]

When I worked in a shop if you clamped a frame to a stand you got a stern talking to, doubly so if you clamped it with a punny shop rag.


In addition to clamping the frame...

Personally I've found that putting the frame in the stand so that the side that I am working on is opposite the stand helps me gain better access to the job at hand.

The tool tray on the stand looks awfully close to that downtube.

[SpokeValley]

Please refer to this clip for proper clamping technique.

https://vimeo.com/133432406

http://alicehui.com/pics/clamp.jpg (https://vimeo.com/133432406)

Thanks for sharing this! Made my day...seriously. :hello:

[Grant McLean]

I worked in a shop form 91 to 95 - well before Carbon became mainstream. We were told never to do this because it WAS a customer's frame - fast forward to present day and this is a customer's frame, too.


I worked in shops from 1981 to 2010, and i was usually the one people like you asked what to do, that is, when i wasn't telling them. LOL.

-g

[oldpotatoe]

I worked in shops from 1981 to 2010, and i was usually the one people like you asked what to do, that is, when i wasn't telling them. LOL.

-g

Hope you had the right answer....:confused:

[yashcha]

Pics of tubes clamped make me cringe. A mechanic clamped my brand new ritchey road logic by the seat tube and cracked a piece off the seat lug. It was our mechanic in our own shop so I couldn't do any thing about it, but everytime I see pics of tubes clamped like that, I think why?

[oldfatslow]

I have this one and it's awesome. Similar to a Cinelli one I have that's 30 years old. http://m.parktool.com/product/super-lite-team-race-stand-prs-21http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/16/c531af5eb9880f89afa5edf36e985f8d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oldpotatoe]

Adjustable cradle.

[Grant McLean]

It was our mechanic in our own shop so I couldn't do any thing about it, but everytime I see pics of tubes clamped like that, I think why?

Why? Because many people in the bike industry have little training.
There is a huge lack of formal programs and policies in place, and most
shops hire people who are self-taught. The mechanics with lots of experience
often develop a greater confidence than their actual skills, and sadly
many of these same people are quite insecure, passive-aggressive, and are highly
critical of others, so they don't take instruction well - ironically this is probably
because they know they lack proper training, and mostly make it up as they go.
It becomes hard to train those people who think they know it all.

-g

[DHallerman]

So then pull the post up and clamp the post . . . why would you clamp a brand new frame?

I clamp my post with the same punny shop rag and my enve decals have rubbed off.

or use this $53 and be done

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Internal-Seat-Clamp/dp/B00781X48O

Great tool from Park, secure and frame-safe, works with any stand.

Why not use the most secure method, when there's no loss from using it?
I mean do you cycle on a traffic-filled road, when there's also a quiet road that takes you to the same place with about the same miles?

Probably not.

So, just because you CAN use the rag and stand-clamp method, why not use a better method?
Okay, for your own work if money is tight, find your favorite kluge.
For a shop that charges customers, the best way to keep customers' bikes in good condition is simply a best practice.

"Oh, but we always have done it that way!"
(Tell it to the 5-speed freewheel.)

Dave, who uses that Park internal seat clamp regularly and has the previous version to sell someday if he bothered to list it

[mvrider]

Any advice for clamping a bike with a (steel) integrated seat post? Assuming I don't want to buy another stand.

[oldfatslow]

Any advice for clamping a bike with a (steel) integrated seat post? Assuming I don't want to buy another stand.

Could you use something like this between the integrated seat post and the fork beneath the stem (assuming there's space to mount this here)?

https://www.yakima.com/tubetop

[Team Murray]

I have the one made by Elite. It's used by several of the pro tour teams. It doesn't fold as compact as the others but is much cheaper. When you use the 20% at Nashbar, it's about $125 out the door.
http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/mProduct4_10052_10053_544950_-1_catNav

[Dirtdiggler]

I use an old road handlebar clamped to my Park stand with the loops pointing up like a hook. I just place the road bike top on it and secure with straps. The road bars are covered in the neoprene foam grips.

[Team Murray]

I have the one made by Elite. It's used by several of the pro tour teams. It doesn't fold as compact as the others but is much cheaper. When you use the 20% at Nashbar, it's about $125 out the door.
http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/mProduct4_10052_10053_544950_-1_catNav

Here's the mfr.'s website:
http://www.elite-it.com/en/products/maintenance/workstands/workstand-race-pro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HORy5k1OWUI

It seems to be used by most of the European protour teams (Movistar, Katousha, Eurocar, FDJ, etc.).