velotel
07-21-2015, 12:21 PM
Sunday evening, 12 July, a magical ride, an up and back to the Col de l但rpettaz. Standing on top at 7 in the evening and looking out at an amazing road curling across distant slopes and over a ridge in the far distance, a road I did last fall. Twice. Standing there in that evening light, waves of subtle colors washing over the slopes, not a soul in sight, the silence of fields and woods and soft breezes floating over the land like an early morning fog, I could have stayed there for hours. Just watching. Looking at the road disappearing over the distant ridge, a visual magnet, a siren call reaching out, beckoning. If I壇 had the time I would have plunged onto it then. Two days later, 14 July, France痴 the 4th of July, I did. From Col des Aravis to Col de l但rpettaz.
The road through the Gorge d但rly was closed, again, with traffic diverted onto the small road above the gorge, the one I ride to avoid the cars in the gorge. Bummer. Have to change plans. Too much traffic, people on holiday, going to Meg钁e and Chamonix, just as many going the opposite direction. I never worry about cars here but they汷e still a nuisance. I couldn稚 avoid them but I could minimize the exposure. Which I did. Parked along the road to H駻y not far from the junction with the east road to Arpettaz.
Left the car in a pocket of shade, rolled off up the road to H駻y, a blink of a village, then on to Flumet, a village the TdF passes through a lot. Usually after crossing Col des Saisies on their way to Col des Aravis. Small, picturesque village, probably worth a visit someday but so far I致e never come up with a good reason for doing so. I suspect that will remain the case. Turned left in the village onto the road to Aravis, and up. Nothing dramatic but I went to a big cog anyway. Saving my legs for the grand traverse.
Way less car traffic now but lots of bikes coming down. In fact by the time I got to the col 12 K later I may have seen more cyclists than I致e ever seen during a ride. Kept wondering where they were coming from and where they were going. Even heard some who sounded like americans. Years ago it was easy to spot them; they were the only wearing helmets. Not anymore, most everyone wears them now.
I always think Flumet to Aravis is neither long, high, nor particularly hard and then I ride it and it痴 always longer, higher, and harder than I had in mind. A climb with two personalities. First half kicks in with some moderate grades into a thick forest, flattens where it痴 carved into a some cliffs above a small gorge almost hidden by the trees, then drops for a couple Ks of easy riding up a narrow valley to just below the village of la Giettaz where the second half kicks in. From there to the col is mostly around 7%, with ramps, until the last K+ where the road kicks up to 8%. There痴 a short section of stackbacks where Mont Blanc all of a sudden looms on the horizon.
Tuesday that second half was a pizza oven. South-facing slopes, few trees, just fields of grasses. Quite a few cars but nothing like on the road to Meg钁e. I think the cyclists coming down outnumbered the cars. Watching the fast riders whiz down was a pleasure. Got passed by a Ferrari heading up, red of course, absolutely a gorgeous car. Don稚 know what model, front engine, coupe, low and sleek, purred up past me smooth as silk sliding over glass, an incredibly subtle exhaust note, quiet and simultaneously radiating power. A beautiful sight. So aerodynamic that it was like the air didn稚 move aside for it, instead disappeared without a shiver of movement beyond the space the car took. The guy wasn稚 driving fast, just flowing up the mountain. I was hoping to see it parked on the col but no luck.
All in all a fine climb to Aravis, but not one I壇 travel far to ride. It痴 a col on the way to somewhere else, not a desination. Which is what I was doing, using it to get to the most spectacular cycling route in France. That痴 an opinion that probably wouldn稚 be shared by most road riders. First off it痴 a chemin, a dirt and rock road, mostly used by farmers for their sheep and cows. Secondly it痴 friggin hard going at times. And long. From the Col des Aravis to the Col de l但rpettaz is 14,5 K of sustained dirt/gravel/rock roadway with lots of sections at 9% and even over 10%. That痴 an estimate. Hard to tell because the dirt is automatically slower going than blacktop. It痴 also totally sublime riding all the way.
A regular roller coaster ride with a total of 535 meters (1755 ft) of going up and 435 meters (1425 ft) of going down between the start and the end. I致e never seen another road like it. First time I rode it was last fall, early October, from Aravis to Arpettaz. Second time was three weeks later, opposite direction. Either direction is stunning. Not sure which direction is harder. I used to think Arpettaz to Aravis. Now I知 thinking Aravis to Arpettaz. Then again might be a toss-up. They汷e both bears.
Arrived on the Col des Aravis, turned left (after first cruising the parking to see if the Ferrari or any other interesting cars were there), onto the chemin. A hundred meters later and I knew today would be harder than the first time. We致e been in a long stretch of hot and dry, as in not a drop of rain and temps in the high 80痴 90痴. So no water, no glue to hold the road surface together. Add in what few cars, probably 4x4痴, that use the chemin and the result is a loose surface with lots of small chunks of rock and gravel. Made maintaining traction in the climbs a challenge. Especially with my low gear a 34/27. With a lower gear I could have stayed on the saddle for traction and still spun the cranks.
Up the first hill, around to the left, into the forest, bank around the shoulder of the hill and there she was again, Mont Blanc. A little further and there was the wooden bench I sat on and ate the first time I rode this. Occupied. People doing what I did, sitting and looking at this panorama of mountains. The chemin slanted down slightly into a steep basin pouring off the mountain to the right. Actually it痴 not really a mountain but a long, narrow ridge with a series of high, angular summits, most around 2200-2400 meters. The chemin contours along from one end of the ridge almost to the other with the summits 700-900 meters above. The slopes plunging off the summit ridge aren稚 far off vertical then ease off to form a series of round ridges and steep-sided basins with the road slipping down into a basin, traversing across, then climbing up out the other side then doing it again.
A crazy road, way the hell and gone up on the side of this mountain, nothing there, just fields and rocks and scattered farm buildings, homes only used in the summer when the animals are up here. Maybe 3 K into the traverse I arrived at a restaurant, Auberge du Plan-Rebord. Yes, a restaurant, open only during the summer and into the autumn. It was open today and looked crowded, a slew of cars parked nose-in towards the auberge like horses tied to the railing outside a saloon, tables with sun umbrellas spread around on a small lawn. Looked tempting but not today. Still a long way to go.
Up out of the first basin, some hard going due to the loose surface, and onto a ridge, swing right and angle down into another basin. Fast descent, big ring spinning, the road dropping but slowly, angling down and across impressively steep slopes. I look to the left there痴 Mont Blanc and the chain of aiguilles above the Chamonix valley. Road flattens, I知 carrying a good pace with lots of rock dodging, then the climb up onto the next ridge. Some steep ramps in here, I知 in the drops and working my arms almost as much as my legs. Cross some hikers, they stand to the side, probably afraid of getting rammed by this crazy old guy weaving his way up the mountain. Could have told them that I was neither drunk nor senile, just picking my line up through the rocks, but was breathing way too hard for any pleasantries. Wonderful riding, a pure delight.
Onto the round crest of the ridge, views to the left unreal. No, I take that back, views in 360ｰ unreal. Third time I致e been here, still astounds me. I don稚 know of a road anywhere that I can ride my road bike on and have views like this. And no one around. Not even mountain bikers. Into the next basin, this one痴 even longer across, at least 3 K just to get onto the ridge on the other side. The basin so broad that it痴 almost a series of mini-basins inside. Fast descent going in, picking lines around the rockier sections when possible, when not picking the best line right through. A rough ride at times but I知 thoroughly enjoying myself. I like technical riding and this is definitely that.
Road flattens then starts easing up the far side. Air still, heat so intense it痴 almost 3-dimemsional, like riding into an invisible cushion of soft resistance. Probably somewhat crazily I grin and think, oh yea, this is good! Grade ramps up, cars must have done some scrabbling through here, loose rock pretty much constant. In the drops, low crouch, butt semi-resting on the saddle nose, shifting weight forward and back, forward for steerage, back for traction when I feel a bit of slippage. This is pure momentum riding. Mental momentum because building up any physical momentum is impossible between the grades and the rocky surface. All a matter of concentrating what power I have in forcing the bike to follow the line my eyes are following. My arms haven稚 worked this hard on the bike in a long time.
Through that section, conditions ease, I sit up, relax a wee bit. But only a wee bit because road might be smoother but it痴 still going up and still dirt and gravel. Hit a flattish section just before a series of switchbacks. Short but a nice rolling pause before the attack. I need that pause because I know the switchbacks are going to be tough. The outside line is always the easiest for grade but it痴 also where spinning tires of cars lay down a layer of gravel, and the sharper the switchback, the more the drivers will spin their tires. The ol mash the accelerator and let the tires and electronics do the work technique. Which isn稚 a technique of course, just a lazy driver behind the wheel.
Okay, here I go, into the hairpin, looking for the clearest line, low crouch, arms pulling, follow the arc through, look for a place to cross the road for a line through the next hairpin. Breathing hard, staring where I want to go, willing the bike there, legs pumping, oops, almost a stall, force the crank over, keep going, jerk the front wheel into a new line, out of the turn, made it. But still hard going, right into the next switchback. This is wild. Too bad I don稚 have a video of riding this to send to Kent to show what I知 putting his frame through! Small rocks keep getting shot off by the tires and pinging off the frame. No idea what the grade is other than steep, steep enough that I think even if the road was paved this would be some hard going. But not technically, just physically. Must admit a lower gear could be appreciated through here.
Made it, switchbacks left behind, grade eases way off, I even move down a cog. Onto the top of the ridge, this one is broad and round and green with grasses. A junction, a branch road coming in from the left. Drops down to somewhere near Flumet. I致e thought a few times of riding it just to see what it痴 like but haven稚 and know I won稚. That would mean missing out on around half the ride between Aravis and Arpettaz and why in the world would I want to do that. On the other hand it would make for a nice escape route if an escape was needed, for weather or a mechanical or maybe just the mind flipping out.
I press on, the high point of the grand traverse a long half K or more further. I致e been waiting for this. I need food, water, a pause but was hanging in there for the high point which is also a bit more than halfway across. Road curls up past a small barn, more stiff going, then I知 there, a curve to the left, climbing finished, for the moment. I知 maybe 300 meters higher than the Col des Aravis and a couple hundred higher than the Col de l但rpettaz with Mont Blanc and its ridge of rock spires standing proud across the way. Can稚 imagine a more spectacular lunch spot for a road ride.
The view from up here of the Col de l但rpettaz is one of my all time favourites. Between the col and where I知 standing an enormous basin, maybe 6 K across, most of the distance downhill. Much of the basin is right under the cliffs falling off the summits above, the road carved into the remarkably steep slopes just below scree fields. A wild place. The drop could be a fast one but not today, the road way too rough for a high speed descent. At least for me. But pretty quick anyway. Hit the bottom, the road flattens, enters the first trees I致e ridden past since way back at the beginning, then past a farmer痴 summer house and into the final climb. Sustained climbing mode, at times right on the edge between making it and stopping, hopefully not on a hip. Couple of times I wanted to stop to rest but figured getting going again would be worse than forcing my way through. Then just like that I was there, the Col de l但rpettaz, rolling on blacktop. Didn稚 stop, not yet, turned left, followed the road to the top of low hill over-looking the col. That痴 where I stopped. From there to the car almost all downhill, and a magnificent downhill at that! Looked back where I壇 come from. Seemed impossibly far. And impossibly gorgeous.
Time to go, down, I壇 like to say the icing on the cake except I知 not much into sugar laced icings. I知 definitely into the downhill. It痴 fast, technical, totally engaging, a bit of just about every joy a downhill plunge on a bike can generate. If I壇 left the car down in the valley below Ugine I壇 have taken the west road instead of this, the east road. The west road is longer, faster, better, one of the best I know. But the east road isn稚 far behind. In fact if it was as long, the two of them would be a toss-up for best in class awards.
A loop absolutely to do for anyone who likes pushing the limits with a road bike. The views are unsurpassed, the riding exquisite, the challenge factor hitting all the notes, just a perfect ride in other words.
Some pics as usual
And if you like my posts, you might also like my book, Switchbacks Vol I. You can find it here: velodogs-publishing.com (http://velodogs-publishing.com)
Cheers
The road through the Gorge d但rly was closed, again, with traffic diverted onto the small road above the gorge, the one I ride to avoid the cars in the gorge. Bummer. Have to change plans. Too much traffic, people on holiday, going to Meg钁e and Chamonix, just as many going the opposite direction. I never worry about cars here but they汷e still a nuisance. I couldn稚 avoid them but I could minimize the exposure. Which I did. Parked along the road to H駻y not far from the junction with the east road to Arpettaz.
Left the car in a pocket of shade, rolled off up the road to H駻y, a blink of a village, then on to Flumet, a village the TdF passes through a lot. Usually after crossing Col des Saisies on their way to Col des Aravis. Small, picturesque village, probably worth a visit someday but so far I致e never come up with a good reason for doing so. I suspect that will remain the case. Turned left in the village onto the road to Aravis, and up. Nothing dramatic but I went to a big cog anyway. Saving my legs for the grand traverse.
Way less car traffic now but lots of bikes coming down. In fact by the time I got to the col 12 K later I may have seen more cyclists than I致e ever seen during a ride. Kept wondering where they were coming from and where they were going. Even heard some who sounded like americans. Years ago it was easy to spot them; they were the only wearing helmets. Not anymore, most everyone wears them now.
I always think Flumet to Aravis is neither long, high, nor particularly hard and then I ride it and it痴 always longer, higher, and harder than I had in mind. A climb with two personalities. First half kicks in with some moderate grades into a thick forest, flattens where it痴 carved into a some cliffs above a small gorge almost hidden by the trees, then drops for a couple Ks of easy riding up a narrow valley to just below the village of la Giettaz where the second half kicks in. From there to the col is mostly around 7%, with ramps, until the last K+ where the road kicks up to 8%. There痴 a short section of stackbacks where Mont Blanc all of a sudden looms on the horizon.
Tuesday that second half was a pizza oven. South-facing slopes, few trees, just fields of grasses. Quite a few cars but nothing like on the road to Meg钁e. I think the cyclists coming down outnumbered the cars. Watching the fast riders whiz down was a pleasure. Got passed by a Ferrari heading up, red of course, absolutely a gorgeous car. Don稚 know what model, front engine, coupe, low and sleek, purred up past me smooth as silk sliding over glass, an incredibly subtle exhaust note, quiet and simultaneously radiating power. A beautiful sight. So aerodynamic that it was like the air didn稚 move aside for it, instead disappeared without a shiver of movement beyond the space the car took. The guy wasn稚 driving fast, just flowing up the mountain. I was hoping to see it parked on the col but no luck.
All in all a fine climb to Aravis, but not one I壇 travel far to ride. It痴 a col on the way to somewhere else, not a desination. Which is what I was doing, using it to get to the most spectacular cycling route in France. That痴 an opinion that probably wouldn稚 be shared by most road riders. First off it痴 a chemin, a dirt and rock road, mostly used by farmers for their sheep and cows. Secondly it痴 friggin hard going at times. And long. From the Col des Aravis to the Col de l但rpettaz is 14,5 K of sustained dirt/gravel/rock roadway with lots of sections at 9% and even over 10%. That痴 an estimate. Hard to tell because the dirt is automatically slower going than blacktop. It痴 also totally sublime riding all the way.
A regular roller coaster ride with a total of 535 meters (1755 ft) of going up and 435 meters (1425 ft) of going down between the start and the end. I致e never seen another road like it. First time I rode it was last fall, early October, from Aravis to Arpettaz. Second time was three weeks later, opposite direction. Either direction is stunning. Not sure which direction is harder. I used to think Arpettaz to Aravis. Now I知 thinking Aravis to Arpettaz. Then again might be a toss-up. They汷e both bears.
Arrived on the Col des Aravis, turned left (after first cruising the parking to see if the Ferrari or any other interesting cars were there), onto the chemin. A hundred meters later and I knew today would be harder than the first time. We致e been in a long stretch of hot and dry, as in not a drop of rain and temps in the high 80痴 90痴. So no water, no glue to hold the road surface together. Add in what few cars, probably 4x4痴, that use the chemin and the result is a loose surface with lots of small chunks of rock and gravel. Made maintaining traction in the climbs a challenge. Especially with my low gear a 34/27. With a lower gear I could have stayed on the saddle for traction and still spun the cranks.
Up the first hill, around to the left, into the forest, bank around the shoulder of the hill and there she was again, Mont Blanc. A little further and there was the wooden bench I sat on and ate the first time I rode this. Occupied. People doing what I did, sitting and looking at this panorama of mountains. The chemin slanted down slightly into a steep basin pouring off the mountain to the right. Actually it痴 not really a mountain but a long, narrow ridge with a series of high, angular summits, most around 2200-2400 meters. The chemin contours along from one end of the ridge almost to the other with the summits 700-900 meters above. The slopes plunging off the summit ridge aren稚 far off vertical then ease off to form a series of round ridges and steep-sided basins with the road slipping down into a basin, traversing across, then climbing up out the other side then doing it again.
A crazy road, way the hell and gone up on the side of this mountain, nothing there, just fields and rocks and scattered farm buildings, homes only used in the summer when the animals are up here. Maybe 3 K into the traverse I arrived at a restaurant, Auberge du Plan-Rebord. Yes, a restaurant, open only during the summer and into the autumn. It was open today and looked crowded, a slew of cars parked nose-in towards the auberge like horses tied to the railing outside a saloon, tables with sun umbrellas spread around on a small lawn. Looked tempting but not today. Still a long way to go.
Up out of the first basin, some hard going due to the loose surface, and onto a ridge, swing right and angle down into another basin. Fast descent, big ring spinning, the road dropping but slowly, angling down and across impressively steep slopes. I look to the left there痴 Mont Blanc and the chain of aiguilles above the Chamonix valley. Road flattens, I知 carrying a good pace with lots of rock dodging, then the climb up onto the next ridge. Some steep ramps in here, I知 in the drops and working my arms almost as much as my legs. Cross some hikers, they stand to the side, probably afraid of getting rammed by this crazy old guy weaving his way up the mountain. Could have told them that I was neither drunk nor senile, just picking my line up through the rocks, but was breathing way too hard for any pleasantries. Wonderful riding, a pure delight.
Onto the round crest of the ridge, views to the left unreal. No, I take that back, views in 360ｰ unreal. Third time I致e been here, still astounds me. I don稚 know of a road anywhere that I can ride my road bike on and have views like this. And no one around. Not even mountain bikers. Into the next basin, this one痴 even longer across, at least 3 K just to get onto the ridge on the other side. The basin so broad that it痴 almost a series of mini-basins inside. Fast descent going in, picking lines around the rockier sections when possible, when not picking the best line right through. A rough ride at times but I知 thoroughly enjoying myself. I like technical riding and this is definitely that.
Road flattens then starts easing up the far side. Air still, heat so intense it痴 almost 3-dimemsional, like riding into an invisible cushion of soft resistance. Probably somewhat crazily I grin and think, oh yea, this is good! Grade ramps up, cars must have done some scrabbling through here, loose rock pretty much constant. In the drops, low crouch, butt semi-resting on the saddle nose, shifting weight forward and back, forward for steerage, back for traction when I feel a bit of slippage. This is pure momentum riding. Mental momentum because building up any physical momentum is impossible between the grades and the rocky surface. All a matter of concentrating what power I have in forcing the bike to follow the line my eyes are following. My arms haven稚 worked this hard on the bike in a long time.
Through that section, conditions ease, I sit up, relax a wee bit. But only a wee bit because road might be smoother but it痴 still going up and still dirt and gravel. Hit a flattish section just before a series of switchbacks. Short but a nice rolling pause before the attack. I need that pause because I know the switchbacks are going to be tough. The outside line is always the easiest for grade but it痴 also where spinning tires of cars lay down a layer of gravel, and the sharper the switchback, the more the drivers will spin their tires. The ol mash the accelerator and let the tires and electronics do the work technique. Which isn稚 a technique of course, just a lazy driver behind the wheel.
Okay, here I go, into the hairpin, looking for the clearest line, low crouch, arms pulling, follow the arc through, look for a place to cross the road for a line through the next hairpin. Breathing hard, staring where I want to go, willing the bike there, legs pumping, oops, almost a stall, force the crank over, keep going, jerk the front wheel into a new line, out of the turn, made it. But still hard going, right into the next switchback. This is wild. Too bad I don稚 have a video of riding this to send to Kent to show what I知 putting his frame through! Small rocks keep getting shot off by the tires and pinging off the frame. No idea what the grade is other than steep, steep enough that I think even if the road was paved this would be some hard going. But not technically, just physically. Must admit a lower gear could be appreciated through here.
Made it, switchbacks left behind, grade eases way off, I even move down a cog. Onto the top of the ridge, this one is broad and round and green with grasses. A junction, a branch road coming in from the left. Drops down to somewhere near Flumet. I致e thought a few times of riding it just to see what it痴 like but haven稚 and know I won稚. That would mean missing out on around half the ride between Aravis and Arpettaz and why in the world would I want to do that. On the other hand it would make for a nice escape route if an escape was needed, for weather or a mechanical or maybe just the mind flipping out.
I press on, the high point of the grand traverse a long half K or more further. I致e been waiting for this. I need food, water, a pause but was hanging in there for the high point which is also a bit more than halfway across. Road curls up past a small barn, more stiff going, then I知 there, a curve to the left, climbing finished, for the moment. I知 maybe 300 meters higher than the Col des Aravis and a couple hundred higher than the Col de l但rpettaz with Mont Blanc and its ridge of rock spires standing proud across the way. Can稚 imagine a more spectacular lunch spot for a road ride.
The view from up here of the Col de l但rpettaz is one of my all time favourites. Between the col and where I知 standing an enormous basin, maybe 6 K across, most of the distance downhill. Much of the basin is right under the cliffs falling off the summits above, the road carved into the remarkably steep slopes just below scree fields. A wild place. The drop could be a fast one but not today, the road way too rough for a high speed descent. At least for me. But pretty quick anyway. Hit the bottom, the road flattens, enters the first trees I致e ridden past since way back at the beginning, then past a farmer痴 summer house and into the final climb. Sustained climbing mode, at times right on the edge between making it and stopping, hopefully not on a hip. Couple of times I wanted to stop to rest but figured getting going again would be worse than forcing my way through. Then just like that I was there, the Col de l但rpettaz, rolling on blacktop. Didn稚 stop, not yet, turned left, followed the road to the top of low hill over-looking the col. That痴 where I stopped. From there to the car almost all downhill, and a magnificent downhill at that! Looked back where I壇 come from. Seemed impossibly far. And impossibly gorgeous.
Time to go, down, I壇 like to say the icing on the cake except I知 not much into sugar laced icings. I知 definitely into the downhill. It痴 fast, technical, totally engaging, a bit of just about every joy a downhill plunge on a bike can generate. If I壇 left the car down in the valley below Ugine I壇 have taken the west road instead of this, the east road. The west road is longer, faster, better, one of the best I know. But the east road isn稚 far behind. In fact if it was as long, the two of them would be a toss-up for best in class awards.
A loop absolutely to do for anyone who likes pushing the limits with a road bike. The views are unsurpassed, the riding exquisite, the challenge factor hitting all the notes, just a perfect ride in other words.
Some pics as usual
And if you like my posts, you might also like my book, Switchbacks Vol I. You can find it here: velodogs-publishing.com (http://velodogs-publishing.com)
Cheers