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View Full Version : How do i get my brake nut out of the fork?


tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 02:02 PM
So i managed to round the brake nut inside the fork. Its an allen nut or at least it used to be..
Its a carbon fork so the nut is completely hidden within.

Im thinking of the possibility to jam a fitting size torx key in there and c what happens but is there a better way perhaps?

bikinchris
06-25-2015, 02:13 PM
Large easy out is the first thing that comes to my mind.

54ny77
06-25-2015, 02:39 PM
how far inside the crown is the bolt?

do you have a dremel? if you've got steady hands, grind the walls of the bolt off (i'm assuming the bolt is like a tube) enough such that you can get a very small set of needle nose pliers in there to grab and hold while you turn the caliper to unscrew. that's risky though in case you zip into the carbon.

or try sticking a rubber band in there with a larger torx bit to see if it'll grip.

FlashUNC
06-25-2015, 02:43 PM
Tried pushing it out from the front? (I'm assuming you've otherwise got the front caliper off.)

oldpotatoe
06-25-2015, 02:48 PM
Unhook the caliper cable and unscrew the caliper, left loosely. Then punch in hole, smack it.

tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 02:50 PM
Thanks for suggestions. Easy out seem like it could possibly work if i found the right size tho I'm not certain there is enough material to drill into and the nut is some weak alloy which i guess is the reason its rounded.

The nut is a good 5 mm inside the fork and the caliper is still attached to the fork, locked in place by the nut with no play between them.

tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 02:52 PM
Unhook the caliper cable and unscrew the caliper, left loosely. Then punch in hole, smack it.

I tried that but the damn nut just spins around with the caliper. No play between brake and nut so no point in smacking yet :/

FlashUNC
06-25-2015, 03:06 PM
I tried that but the damn nut just spins around with the caliper. No play between brake and nut so no point in smacking yet :/

I've had luck with using Torx tools to get enough purchase inside a slightly rounded allen head. Maybe try that too?

Richard
06-25-2015, 03:08 PM
Could you put some epoxy on the end of the allen wrench and allow it to set up overnight? Then you will have some "quality" purchase.

thwart
06-25-2015, 03:24 PM
I'm thinking of the possibility to jam a fitting size torx key in there and c what happens but is there a better way perhaps?
Kinda like a standardized test… your first intuition may be the best...

Neil
06-25-2015, 03:28 PM
I'd bang a Torx bit in, see if I could get it to catch/grip.

If all else fails, pillar drill or end-mill.

tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 03:52 PM
Was looking forward to test some wheels on this bike but meh. I guess he who waits..

Ill give the torx idea a test tomorrow. Now I'm too annoyed and feeling unlucky :)

one60
06-25-2015, 04:35 PM
If you find the right diameter, the head of a stove bolt might fit on the end of the brake bolt.

Thread stove bolt from front through the hollow brake bolt. On the back of the fork, add a washer with a large enough diameter hole to over the head of the brake bolt then using a nut and maybe another washer, you should be able to turn the nut to back the bolt out. (Be sure to use masking tape or such to prevent damage the fork crown).

Or just get a bigger hammer!

eddief
06-25-2015, 04:46 PM
and turn the caliper instead of the nut...to at least loosen it up? mo leverage, mo betta. or will the nut just turn inside the fork? maybe doing it that way would enable a tool to grasp the nut just enough to get it undone.

tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 04:50 PM
It would just spin unfortunately.

Not sure i follow the stove bolt idea. Either way I'm gently tapping a torx in there tomorrow while saying my prayers.

Neil
06-25-2015, 04:52 PM
Make sure you use a confident hammering action, and a large hammer with enough weight to strike fear into the heart of the fork.

tuscanyswe
06-25-2015, 04:56 PM
Make sure you use a confident hammering action, and a large hammer with enough weight to strike fear into the heart of the fork.

Oh ill be confident no doubt! *help*

vqdriver
06-25-2015, 05:37 PM
if the torx doesn't work you could just get a (very) small file in there to shave a couple notches. enough to get a flathead in there.

also, since it's metric you could also try the next size up fractional allen key. even if it's rounded off, they're rarely perfectly round.

Steve in SLO
06-25-2015, 06:44 PM
Yet another possibility: Tap a straight blade screwdriver into the recessed Allen bolt and then try to unscrew the caliper.

bikesickness
06-25-2015, 07:03 PM
Kinda like a standardized test… your first intuition may be the best...

I second this approach. Back in my VW days (Rabbit GTI) I managed to strip a hex head bolt (6mm) that holds the intake manifold on. There is a bit called a triple square that has six points (vs the torx five). A couple of good hits with a hammer drove the triple square (6mm) bit into the stripped hex head and it came out with ease. Good luck.

hockeybike
06-25-2015, 08:44 PM
Either torx or the next size up in standard as opposed to metric.

Can you even purchase standard-sized hex heads in Sweden?

Cat3roadracer
06-25-2015, 09:13 PM
Your teeth are most important. Being a member on this exclusive forum means you are wealthy to start. Simply buy a new fork and have the confidence of sound components.

shovelhd
06-26-2015, 06:01 AM
PB Blaster. Ez-Out in the nut, twist the caliper.

LouDeeter
06-26-2015, 06:29 AM
Definitely approach the problem from the front, not the back. If you put pressure on the nut, you should be able to turn the caliper enough to loosen it. Then, whack out the nut with either an allen wrench from the front, or a punch or something else smaller than the hole. Worst case, disassemble the caliper and then with the arms off, whack the center bolt.