Can anyone here do some one-off machinist work?

[Lewis Moon]

Looks like an idea is coming to fruition. I need to have the end caps of a WI H2 rear hub drilled out to accept a 10mm through axle. Basically I want a 10mm (plus a tiny insertion skosh) hole where the quick release hole is now.

http://cx.cxmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/P8280184.jpg

[staggerwing]

That would be an easy task in almost any metal working lathe and I have such a beast in our lab.

However, is not the OD of the projecting nub, which centers the hub in the dropouts, 12mm. If that is the case, you will only have a 1mm wall thickness after boring, which in aluminum, would be rather weak and easily damaged. Normal use, may result in binding of the through axle, in the end caps.

[Lewis Moon]

That would be an easy task in almost any metal working lathe and I have such a beast in our lab.

However, is not the OD of the projecting nub, which centers the hub in the dropouts, 12mm. If that is the case, you will only have a 1mm wall thickness after boring, which in aluminum, would be rather weak and easily damaged. Normal use, may result in binding of the through axle, in the end caps.

Actually, that "nub" is 10mm. I want to completely take it out. The through axle will be taking its place when inserted.

[nicrump]

if you want to maintain concentric ODs and IDs then any machinist worth his salt would recommend just making new ones.

draw it in sketchup and submit to emachineshop.com

[staggerwing]

While Nick has the right answer, it may still be possible to complete what you are interested in.

How deep/tall is the end cap? The shorter the sidewall, the higher the chance of misalignment on the overbore. Would want to use a collet chuck vs the more typical 3-jaw variety.

[David Kirk]

I assume you have but just in case.....have you checked with WI to see if they offer what you are looking for?

dave

[Lewis Moon]

While Nick has the right answer, it may still be possible to complete what you are interested in.

How deep/tall is the end cap? The shorter the sidewall, the higher the chance of misalignment on the overbore. Would want to use a collet chuck vs the more typical 3-jaw variety.

One endcap is loose, the other is press fit into the main, large bore axle. The interior I.D. of the loose cap is 9.5mm with a 2mm wall thickness. Bore it out and you leave ~1.75mm wall thickness. The steel through axle will take the force. You'll be able to get about 13mm into the chuck for the loose end and and the entire outside axle on the other.

[bicycletricycle]

I did this to the same hub but for a 3/8", got a long titanium bolt and machined step down washers to keep the wheel centered in the dropout.

I have a comprehensive collet set which will allow me to keep 3 or 4 thousandths concentricity which is accurate enough for bicycle stuff.

What are you going to use for the axle?

[Lewis Moon]

I did this to the same hub but for a 3/8", got a long titanium bolt and machined step down washers to keep the wheel centered in the dropout.

I have a comprehensive collet set which will allow me to keep 3 or 4 thousandths concentricity which is accurate enough for bicycle stuff.

What are you going to use for the axle?

I have a DT Swiss 135 x 10 RWS through bolt Like This: (http://www.jensonusa.com/!3FKpr-3O7DoKRRPybGhy3A!/DT-Swiss-RWS-Aluminum-Thru-Bolt-Skewer?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CjwKEAjw5J6sBRDp3ty_17KZyWsSJABgp-Oa1Z-cm9IRH-8NFxtVcUjevsSCdNsUcfsRx8lW2hPhhxoC487w_wcB)
http://static.jensonusa.com/images/Default-Image/Zoom/3/QR259A00.jpg