velotel
06-12-2015, 04:12 PM
A long ride, from early summer to early spring, from baking heat to crusted snow banks and cold rain. That’s what can happen during 1927 vertical meters / 6322 ft in the Alps in early June. Note that’s the vertical rise from the valley floor to the col, not the climbing vertical.
Twelve years since I did the north side of Galibier, maybe more. Back then I was still on a 39/26 for climbing. Not sure why so many years passed without a repeat. Partly because the damn thing is so huge that it intimidated me a little. Also because of the section to Télégraphe, a highway, not some narrow, crazed road twisting up a mountain, the kind I love. The road to Télégraphe is like the road to Alpe d’Huez, a road serving a big ski area. Which means cars, buses, and trucks so it’s a highway.
I figured there wouldn’t be much traffic Sunday since the road between the Col du Lautaret and Bourg d’Oisans is closed. A mountain moved and cracked a long tunnel the road traverses. They’re working probably somewhat feverishly to get the tunnel repaired and safe for use since the TdF is supposed to cross the Galibier then drop down the valley to finish up with the climb to Alpe d’Huez. There was traffic, especially motorcycles, from relatively silent touring BMWs to head throbbing Harleys, everyone in a hurry. Or maybe not so much in a hurry as much as simply amusing themselves roaring up the road.
The climb to Télégraphe turned out to be much more enjoyable than I remembered. Steady grades, the kind a strong rider can tap out a fast pace on. I cruised, saving energy for after Valloire. Then again cruising is a relative term for me. Anytime a grade hits 8%, I’m working hard just to keep a steady advance. Quite a bit of 8% to Télégraphe.
Lots of cyclists too, most coming down. I wasn’t exactly late in the morning heading up despite the drive from my house so they must have gotten really early starts or they’d turned around on Télégraphe. Only doing Télégraphe is sort of like organizing a great party then leaving before it’s gotten going. I did that last time I rode it. Turned around on the col to go down and get the car to drive up and over Galibier so my son and his two buddies from the states could cross Galibier and ride down to Bourg d’Oisans.
The road’s in a forest right to the col but the hillsides so steep the views are good anyway. Lots of shade to keep cool in too. New K posts along the road showing the distance to the col and the grade for the following K. The old posts are still there too but they’re marking the distance from the road junction in the valley so don’t align with the new posts. Without grades either, old school. Came around one long bend and saw the final traverse to the col in the distance. Seemed a long way away but turned out to be an easy passage. It was somewhere in here where my son and his buddies did one of their undeclared races. I just watched them sprint to the col while I rolled along at my own pace. Sunday I arrived on the col at a good pace, for me. Then again I got passed by some guy with panniers on his bike. Small ones that didn’t look excessively loaded I should add in my defense. He also didn’t fly away from me which softened the sting a bit.
On the col, halfway there. Well, maybe not halfway, or a light half, 12 K and 850 vertical to Télégraphe against 18 K and 1240 meters to Galibier from Valloire. With a nice rest zone between the two climbs, 5 K of relaxed downhill. Valloire, a ski town sprawled through the valley floor. Didn’t really notice much riding through other than there are lots of hotels, apartments, restaurants, and ski shops. And a fountain. I was hoping there’d be one because I was deep into my second bottle with a long way to go. Filled up, stretched the legs, headed off, straight into climbing mode. Still in Valloire and I’m out of the saddle. A K at 9%, according to the post I rode by, the road straight. I hate steep straights. I’d rather ride a series of switchbacks at double-digits than a straight K at 9%. Straight seems to take forever. Then the road went limp for a few K, but still straight up the valley. Low single-digit grades, should have been easy but a wind was coming down the valley. Cost me a couple of cogs or so. Into the village of Les Verneys, road squeezed and jiggling past the old buildings. Had to stop on a bridge over a creek full with snowmelt to shoot a rock and snow peak soaring into the sky. Thought it was one of the Aiguilles d’Arve before realizing couldn’t be that. Had to be the Grand Galibier, a rugged 3200 meter summit above the col.
The ski town was left behind and at last the road pinched in nicely and became a proper mountain road. A two-laner but a tight two-laner. Looked a lot like Colorado through here, except for the road. I was now somewhere in mid-spring with lots of flowers, fields a rich green, streams full and clear, snow up high. Gorgeous. Hardly any trees, maybe centuries of avalanches crashing off the slopes. The valley’s a steep-sided V that I imagine gets crushed in the winter.
The road’s pretty much a straightish shot up the left side of the valley through here. Seemed easier than I remembered, which isn’t to say easy. Not with the wind still in the face. Moderate grades, 6%, 7%, 8%. Spinning happily in my 34/27, no hurry because I know soon the grades ramp up. Came around a stretched out bend to the left and saw the section I was kind of worried about, where the road curls around over the stream then heads up the flank of the mountain via a long traverse and some switchbacks.
Lot of cars parked along the road, hikers and climbers and maybe some skiers long gone to the heights. Probably mountain bikers too. Rolled past an old farm building that during the summer is a small restaurant/bar. Stopped there for a beer the last time I came over the col. That was on a ride from La Grave to St Michel-de-Maurienne. It was still closed. Might have been tempted to stop for a beer otherwise. Just as well. Getting started again after a beer with another 8 K and probably 700 vertical meters to go wouldn’t have been easy.
Around the curl and into the traverse, okay, here goes. Yep, definitely hard, but not desperate, honest hard, the kind of grade that weeds out the herd if someone goes into attack mode. I didn’t, but I wasn’t dying either. Good views back down the valley and into the distance. This is one of those places where the fans love to plant themselves to watch the TdF come up because they can see the peloton for a long time. Shot some pics, got started again and had just clipped-in when the front wheel of a bike came into view then rolled past, followed by a guy on the bike who was looking like he was somewhere up in my age range. He made me look fat, and I only weigh 148 lbs on a just under 6 ft frame! This guy rewrote the definition of wiry.
I was enjoying myself up here. A fine road, beautiful mountains, what more could one ask for. The road’s nothing but curves, curling around small rock cliffs, through fields of giant boulders, grasses and wildflowers thrusting up into the heat. The only fly in the soup the motorcycles. Noisy things and like certain animals they’re always in herds. Up through some sweet switchbacks and into the upper basin. Water running everywhere. Couldn’t see the col at first. Then I spotted a dark line slicing across a field of snow, the final traverse to the col.
I was now in late winter/ early spring. Like I said earlier, a long journey, from summer back to winter. Most of the slopes off the skyline ridge were still white with snow. Clouds were looking dark and threatening in places with pockets of rain in the distance. I was hoping it was rain and not snow. The temperature had dropped enough that snow wasn’t totally out of the question.
Up past the old farm where in the summer fresh goat cheese can be bought, still closed up tight. Around a long bend to the right then a round switchback to the left overlooking the valley below. Had to stop and shoot. Saw quite a few cyclists from there. And here I thought there’d hardly be anyone here this early in the year! There’d been a steady trickle of riders coming down the whole time too. We cyclists really are a crazy bunch, riding up these nut-case climbs just to ride back down!
Rolled by a K post, only 4 K to go, grade at 8% or maybe 9%, I’ve forgotten. Made me smile. My legs were baked but I knew the col was in the bag. Next K post, 3 K to go, not sure what grade was marked, not that it would have made any difference. I’d been on my 27 cog for so long by then I might as well have been riding a one-speed. The road all looping curls and curving ramps. Lots of snow around, definitely late winter/early spring. The 2 K post, happy to see that. Hard going but no problem. More and more snow, no flowers poking up anywhere. Impressive quantities of water coursing down the slopes. At last, the 1 K post, the tunnel straight ahead, the road to the col to the left, post showing 9%. Which I knew was totally misleading because the last 500 meters or so to the col are pretty easy.
Temperature had dropped and it was starting to drizzle. Time to add a layer. The drizzle slipped into the rain category, the road instantly black with water. Naturally I hadn’t brought a rain jacket. Okay, up to the col, out of the saddle, working hard. Some riders coming down, they weren’t moving all that much faster than I was going up. All that work to get to the top and then they deny themselves the joy of racing downhill. Strange.
Into the last switchback, out of the saddle, arms working as much as the legs, around to the right, grade slacks off, more cyclists tiptoeing down. Move down a cog, then another, and again. That feels good. Small crowd on the col, mostly cyclists, everyone with huge smiles and telephones shooting pics left and right but mostly of each other or themselves. Cruised over to look down the south side. I love that side of Galibier, one of my favorite roads. Full of sunshine and space and superb peaks and glaciers. A climb I’ve always enjoyed and a stunning descent.
Time to layer up, not that I have much to add, a long-sleeved wool jersey and a windproof/water resistant vest. Another pocket of rain sweeps in. I’m hoping that’s all it is, a pocket. Sure would like to drop down the south side, nothing but sunshine down there. North side is looking gray and wet. Car’s down in St Michel-de-Maurienne so north side is definitely where I’m heading. Shoot more shots for posterity and I’m off, rain slanting in with a bit of force at the moment.
Before even reaching the first switchback I’ve passed three riders heading down. Around the switchback, gravity pulling hard, blast by some riders coming up, heads down, legs moving slow. Hit the junction to the tunnel, swing right, still raining, the road black with water but not too far below the road is looking dry. Friggin cold though. I’m balancing between going for the speed to get down into the sunshine as quickly as possible or taking it easy as the road could be slick in places. Getting to the sunshine dominates the tug-of-war and I start flying off the mountain. Cross the line from wet to dry road and let the bike roll free. Might be in the sunshine but still cold. Pass more cyclists coming up. They’re going to have a wet finish to the ride. Pass more cyclists going down.
Sweet downhill, the turns round and fast, the road generous with two real lanes. Into the switchbacks above the lower valley. Carvers but not so fast. The traverse is a ripper, the bends turning a lot more at speed than they were coming up. Curl over the creek and hit the long run down the valley. Grades are steep enough that coasting is no problem but for speed, which I wanted, spinning is mandatory. Get to the section that had been graveled recently. They do a lot of that in France after the winter, oil and gravel the roads. Coming up I hadn’t paid it much attention as there wasn’t much gravel remaining on the road but at speed coming down, things are a little different. Have to follow the lines that are clean, not always easy. Hit one spot of gravel I didn’t see and the tires do a little instantaneous dance. The gravel section didn’t last long and then it was back to full throttle.
Flew into Valloire and bit the brakes, watching for drivers pulling out of parking spaces or just not paying attention. Through town, turn left, into the climb to Télégraphe. An easy enough climb for sure but I rode it in an embarrassingly low gear anyway. The worst is the initial climb away from town but then it starts going flat and ends up with a long section that’s almost flat. Drove the bike over the col with one thought in my head, all downhill to the car.
Turned out it had rained down here and the road was pretty wet in sections. A lot of the blacktop was recent and possibly a bit slippery with oil mixed with the rain so it wasn’t as fast a plunge as I’d expected. A good descent, plenty fast but easy. A fast rider can easily pass cars that aren’t in a rush but between the wet road and the new blacktop, I ended up having to follow two cars that were slower than me but just fast enough that I would have had to accelerate to the limit to get by before the next turn. For once I backed off and let them lead me down. By then my hands and arms were as beat as my legs so cooling the speed was easy.
Across the bridge, turn left, down to the train station where I left my car. Finished. I’m beat. Col du Galibier, north side, not as hard as I’d feared but no way around it, a long, hard climb. If the entire distance was like the section from the valley above Valloire to the col, this puppy would be one of the best of the best. It’s not like I don’t like the climb over Télégraphe; I’m just not crazy about it. For me it’s kind of like riding rollers in an outside setting. Which is absolutely a comment on how spoiled I am here in France with the incredible array of roads to ride. But the upper road to Galibier, now that’s a mountain road. But between the road from Lautaret to the col and the road from Valloire to the col, for me there’s no contest; the south side road is one of my all-time favorites. But despite that, the road from the Maurienne Valley to Galibier is definitely a half-to ride. This was my second time. I think that’s enough.
Some pics
Twelve years since I did the north side of Galibier, maybe more. Back then I was still on a 39/26 for climbing. Not sure why so many years passed without a repeat. Partly because the damn thing is so huge that it intimidated me a little. Also because of the section to Télégraphe, a highway, not some narrow, crazed road twisting up a mountain, the kind I love. The road to Télégraphe is like the road to Alpe d’Huez, a road serving a big ski area. Which means cars, buses, and trucks so it’s a highway.
I figured there wouldn’t be much traffic Sunday since the road between the Col du Lautaret and Bourg d’Oisans is closed. A mountain moved and cracked a long tunnel the road traverses. They’re working probably somewhat feverishly to get the tunnel repaired and safe for use since the TdF is supposed to cross the Galibier then drop down the valley to finish up with the climb to Alpe d’Huez. There was traffic, especially motorcycles, from relatively silent touring BMWs to head throbbing Harleys, everyone in a hurry. Or maybe not so much in a hurry as much as simply amusing themselves roaring up the road.
The climb to Télégraphe turned out to be much more enjoyable than I remembered. Steady grades, the kind a strong rider can tap out a fast pace on. I cruised, saving energy for after Valloire. Then again cruising is a relative term for me. Anytime a grade hits 8%, I’m working hard just to keep a steady advance. Quite a bit of 8% to Télégraphe.
Lots of cyclists too, most coming down. I wasn’t exactly late in the morning heading up despite the drive from my house so they must have gotten really early starts or they’d turned around on Télégraphe. Only doing Télégraphe is sort of like organizing a great party then leaving before it’s gotten going. I did that last time I rode it. Turned around on the col to go down and get the car to drive up and over Galibier so my son and his two buddies from the states could cross Galibier and ride down to Bourg d’Oisans.
The road’s in a forest right to the col but the hillsides so steep the views are good anyway. Lots of shade to keep cool in too. New K posts along the road showing the distance to the col and the grade for the following K. The old posts are still there too but they’re marking the distance from the road junction in the valley so don’t align with the new posts. Without grades either, old school. Came around one long bend and saw the final traverse to the col in the distance. Seemed a long way away but turned out to be an easy passage. It was somewhere in here where my son and his buddies did one of their undeclared races. I just watched them sprint to the col while I rolled along at my own pace. Sunday I arrived on the col at a good pace, for me. Then again I got passed by some guy with panniers on his bike. Small ones that didn’t look excessively loaded I should add in my defense. He also didn’t fly away from me which softened the sting a bit.
On the col, halfway there. Well, maybe not halfway, or a light half, 12 K and 850 vertical to Télégraphe against 18 K and 1240 meters to Galibier from Valloire. With a nice rest zone between the two climbs, 5 K of relaxed downhill. Valloire, a ski town sprawled through the valley floor. Didn’t really notice much riding through other than there are lots of hotels, apartments, restaurants, and ski shops. And a fountain. I was hoping there’d be one because I was deep into my second bottle with a long way to go. Filled up, stretched the legs, headed off, straight into climbing mode. Still in Valloire and I’m out of the saddle. A K at 9%, according to the post I rode by, the road straight. I hate steep straights. I’d rather ride a series of switchbacks at double-digits than a straight K at 9%. Straight seems to take forever. Then the road went limp for a few K, but still straight up the valley. Low single-digit grades, should have been easy but a wind was coming down the valley. Cost me a couple of cogs or so. Into the village of Les Verneys, road squeezed and jiggling past the old buildings. Had to stop on a bridge over a creek full with snowmelt to shoot a rock and snow peak soaring into the sky. Thought it was one of the Aiguilles d’Arve before realizing couldn’t be that. Had to be the Grand Galibier, a rugged 3200 meter summit above the col.
The ski town was left behind and at last the road pinched in nicely and became a proper mountain road. A two-laner but a tight two-laner. Looked a lot like Colorado through here, except for the road. I was now somewhere in mid-spring with lots of flowers, fields a rich green, streams full and clear, snow up high. Gorgeous. Hardly any trees, maybe centuries of avalanches crashing off the slopes. The valley’s a steep-sided V that I imagine gets crushed in the winter.
The road’s pretty much a straightish shot up the left side of the valley through here. Seemed easier than I remembered, which isn’t to say easy. Not with the wind still in the face. Moderate grades, 6%, 7%, 8%. Spinning happily in my 34/27, no hurry because I know soon the grades ramp up. Came around a stretched out bend to the left and saw the section I was kind of worried about, where the road curls around over the stream then heads up the flank of the mountain via a long traverse and some switchbacks.
Lot of cars parked along the road, hikers and climbers and maybe some skiers long gone to the heights. Probably mountain bikers too. Rolled past an old farm building that during the summer is a small restaurant/bar. Stopped there for a beer the last time I came over the col. That was on a ride from La Grave to St Michel-de-Maurienne. It was still closed. Might have been tempted to stop for a beer otherwise. Just as well. Getting started again after a beer with another 8 K and probably 700 vertical meters to go wouldn’t have been easy.
Around the curl and into the traverse, okay, here goes. Yep, definitely hard, but not desperate, honest hard, the kind of grade that weeds out the herd if someone goes into attack mode. I didn’t, but I wasn’t dying either. Good views back down the valley and into the distance. This is one of those places where the fans love to plant themselves to watch the TdF come up because they can see the peloton for a long time. Shot some pics, got started again and had just clipped-in when the front wheel of a bike came into view then rolled past, followed by a guy on the bike who was looking like he was somewhere up in my age range. He made me look fat, and I only weigh 148 lbs on a just under 6 ft frame! This guy rewrote the definition of wiry.
I was enjoying myself up here. A fine road, beautiful mountains, what more could one ask for. The road’s nothing but curves, curling around small rock cliffs, through fields of giant boulders, grasses and wildflowers thrusting up into the heat. The only fly in the soup the motorcycles. Noisy things and like certain animals they’re always in herds. Up through some sweet switchbacks and into the upper basin. Water running everywhere. Couldn’t see the col at first. Then I spotted a dark line slicing across a field of snow, the final traverse to the col.
I was now in late winter/ early spring. Like I said earlier, a long journey, from summer back to winter. Most of the slopes off the skyline ridge were still white with snow. Clouds were looking dark and threatening in places with pockets of rain in the distance. I was hoping it was rain and not snow. The temperature had dropped enough that snow wasn’t totally out of the question.
Up past the old farm where in the summer fresh goat cheese can be bought, still closed up tight. Around a long bend to the right then a round switchback to the left overlooking the valley below. Had to stop and shoot. Saw quite a few cyclists from there. And here I thought there’d hardly be anyone here this early in the year! There’d been a steady trickle of riders coming down the whole time too. We cyclists really are a crazy bunch, riding up these nut-case climbs just to ride back down!
Rolled by a K post, only 4 K to go, grade at 8% or maybe 9%, I’ve forgotten. Made me smile. My legs were baked but I knew the col was in the bag. Next K post, 3 K to go, not sure what grade was marked, not that it would have made any difference. I’d been on my 27 cog for so long by then I might as well have been riding a one-speed. The road all looping curls and curving ramps. Lots of snow around, definitely late winter/early spring. The 2 K post, happy to see that. Hard going but no problem. More and more snow, no flowers poking up anywhere. Impressive quantities of water coursing down the slopes. At last, the 1 K post, the tunnel straight ahead, the road to the col to the left, post showing 9%. Which I knew was totally misleading because the last 500 meters or so to the col are pretty easy.
Temperature had dropped and it was starting to drizzle. Time to add a layer. The drizzle slipped into the rain category, the road instantly black with water. Naturally I hadn’t brought a rain jacket. Okay, up to the col, out of the saddle, working hard. Some riders coming down, they weren’t moving all that much faster than I was going up. All that work to get to the top and then they deny themselves the joy of racing downhill. Strange.
Into the last switchback, out of the saddle, arms working as much as the legs, around to the right, grade slacks off, more cyclists tiptoeing down. Move down a cog, then another, and again. That feels good. Small crowd on the col, mostly cyclists, everyone with huge smiles and telephones shooting pics left and right but mostly of each other or themselves. Cruised over to look down the south side. I love that side of Galibier, one of my favorite roads. Full of sunshine and space and superb peaks and glaciers. A climb I’ve always enjoyed and a stunning descent.
Time to layer up, not that I have much to add, a long-sleeved wool jersey and a windproof/water resistant vest. Another pocket of rain sweeps in. I’m hoping that’s all it is, a pocket. Sure would like to drop down the south side, nothing but sunshine down there. North side is looking gray and wet. Car’s down in St Michel-de-Maurienne so north side is definitely where I’m heading. Shoot more shots for posterity and I’m off, rain slanting in with a bit of force at the moment.
Before even reaching the first switchback I’ve passed three riders heading down. Around the switchback, gravity pulling hard, blast by some riders coming up, heads down, legs moving slow. Hit the junction to the tunnel, swing right, still raining, the road black with water but not too far below the road is looking dry. Friggin cold though. I’m balancing between going for the speed to get down into the sunshine as quickly as possible or taking it easy as the road could be slick in places. Getting to the sunshine dominates the tug-of-war and I start flying off the mountain. Cross the line from wet to dry road and let the bike roll free. Might be in the sunshine but still cold. Pass more cyclists coming up. They’re going to have a wet finish to the ride. Pass more cyclists going down.
Sweet downhill, the turns round and fast, the road generous with two real lanes. Into the switchbacks above the lower valley. Carvers but not so fast. The traverse is a ripper, the bends turning a lot more at speed than they were coming up. Curl over the creek and hit the long run down the valley. Grades are steep enough that coasting is no problem but for speed, which I wanted, spinning is mandatory. Get to the section that had been graveled recently. They do a lot of that in France after the winter, oil and gravel the roads. Coming up I hadn’t paid it much attention as there wasn’t much gravel remaining on the road but at speed coming down, things are a little different. Have to follow the lines that are clean, not always easy. Hit one spot of gravel I didn’t see and the tires do a little instantaneous dance. The gravel section didn’t last long and then it was back to full throttle.
Flew into Valloire and bit the brakes, watching for drivers pulling out of parking spaces or just not paying attention. Through town, turn left, into the climb to Télégraphe. An easy enough climb for sure but I rode it in an embarrassingly low gear anyway. The worst is the initial climb away from town but then it starts going flat and ends up with a long section that’s almost flat. Drove the bike over the col with one thought in my head, all downhill to the car.
Turned out it had rained down here and the road was pretty wet in sections. A lot of the blacktop was recent and possibly a bit slippery with oil mixed with the rain so it wasn’t as fast a plunge as I’d expected. A good descent, plenty fast but easy. A fast rider can easily pass cars that aren’t in a rush but between the wet road and the new blacktop, I ended up having to follow two cars that were slower than me but just fast enough that I would have had to accelerate to the limit to get by before the next turn. For once I backed off and let them lead me down. By then my hands and arms were as beat as my legs so cooling the speed was easy.
Across the bridge, turn left, down to the train station where I left my car. Finished. I’m beat. Col du Galibier, north side, not as hard as I’d feared but no way around it, a long, hard climb. If the entire distance was like the section from the valley above Valloire to the col, this puppy would be one of the best of the best. It’s not like I don’t like the climb over Télégraphe; I’m just not crazy about it. For me it’s kind of like riding rollers in an outside setting. Which is absolutely a comment on how spoiled I am here in France with the incredible array of roads to ride. But the upper road to Galibier, now that’s a mountain road. But between the road from Lautaret to the col and the road from Valloire to the col, for me there’s no contest; the south side road is one of my all-time favorites. But despite that, the road from the Maurienne Valley to Galibier is definitely a half-to ride. This was my second time. I think that’s enough.
Some pics