Appropriate blade for cutting carbon steerer

[Robbos]

I need to cut down the carbon steerer on my Easton carbon steerer cross fork. I've heard different things about the appropriate tools, some say a 32tpi blade is fine. Basically, I'd rather buy a decent blade at the local hardware store than an overpriced bike-specific product. Unless that product was absolutely neccesary... Oh and I will of course be doing all the other proper preps like using a cutting guide, taping the fork, and not breathing the nasty carbon particles!

[odin99]

use a Dremel rotary tool! the regular disc cutting tool cuts through carbon almost like butter.

[eddief]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RflE5p3OPgM

[ultraman6970]

Dont forget if you use a dremel to put some maskin tape around, just where you are going to cut so the carbon doesnt shatters (thats the word right?)

[DRietz]

Yeah, any fine tooth blade with work fine. Dremels also work fine.

Don't sweat it too much - it's really not that hard. ;)

[Lewis Moon]

I just use an old fashioned hack saw. I once used an expensive Japanese woodworking saw and it worked a treat, but killed the blade. I usually just cut it a bit long, cut slow, I don't "force" it (let the saw do the work, new blade is best) and I always wrap about 4 turns of masking tape just below the cut. I finish it off on the belt sander to get a nice, square end with rounded edges. Be sure to round off the inner edges too. Clean, sanded cuts are less likely to delam.

[oldpotatoe]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RflE5p3OPgM

What he said although the Park holder/guide, held in a vice, is more secure, IMHO

[HillDancer]

Carbide grit hacksaw blade, check for errant particles and knock them off before using, measure blade thickness, Park SG-6 guide with shims (http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Alignment-Shims-11-5mm/dp/B00N9UXV68) added for accurate blade gap.

[eddief]

holder thingy makes for fewer things moving around at the same time you are wondering if you are phucking it up.

Reminds me of the time I took my new Enve fork, including blackout decals applied by Firefly - to the LBS to have them cut the steerer. I had marked the steerer with a piece of tape to show them where I wanted it cut. They cut on the wrong side of the tape. Of course they bought me a new fork, sent it to Firefly for decals, and then finally cut it correctly. Now I do them myself.

What he said although the Park holder/guide, held in a vice, is more secure, IMHO

[54ny77]

http://media.comicbook.com/uploads1/2014/07/blade-103956.jpg

[Black Dog]

Make sure not to breath in the dust!!!! Seriously. Use a good mask and ventilation. If you plan on using a shop vac then make sure you have a hepa filter in it. Any high speed rotary tool will kick up a lot of dust compare to a hand powered saw.

[d_douglas]

This may be a dumb question, but what do I use to cut an alloy steerer? (i.e., a Rockshox Recon fork?)

I need to chop mine.

[Black Dog]

This may be a dumb question, but what do I use to cut an alloy steerer? (i.e., a Rockshox Recon fork?)

I need to chop mine.

Hacksaw. You can use a hose clamp as a cutting guide.

[eBAUMANN]

32t (carbon) or 24t (steel) hacksaw blade with a park cutting guide.
its really not that complicated...

yes park makes special blades for carbon but then you also need to get their guide with a larger slot for that blade.
ive used both and dont really notice a difference. never had any issues with fraying or cracking.

[milkbaby]

Carbide grit hacksaw blade, check for errant particles and knock them off before using, measure blade thickness, Park SG-6 guide with shims (http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Alignment-Shims-11-5mm/dp/B00N9UXV68) added for accurate blade gap.

^+1 for the above... You can get the carbide saw blade at any good hardware store. Instead of forking out for the Park cutting guide, you can just do a hose clamp from the hardware store too.

Like the other poster who had a shop cut on the wrong side of the tape marking, when you do it yourself, you only have yourself to blame. I'd rather blame myself than have a misunderstanding with the LBS. :)

[oldpotatoe]

This may be a dumb question, but what do I use to cut an alloy steerer? (i.e., a Rockshox Recon fork?)

I need to chop mine.

Same stuff as for carbon steerer. File edges and inside when yer done to remove lip(s).

[Robbos]

Cool, thanks for the feedback everyone! No question I'll be ultra-careful throughout the whole process. Only nervous as I'm usually a steel kinda guy, what with its much greater margin for ham-fistedness.

[regularguy412]

Hacksaw. You can use a hose clamp as a cutting guide.

This ^^ is what I did 2 weekends ago on my new Enve fork. I used a 32 TPI hacksaw blade (brand new). I also found that if you need to do a little minor cleanup on the cut edge to make it 'perfectly' square, a fine grit grinding wheel on a bench grinder works great. Just use the side (flat) surface of the wheel for the face work.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Grant McLean]

Cool, thanks for the feedback everyone! No question I'll be ultra-careful throughout the whole process. Only nervous as I'm usually a steel kinda guy, what with its much greater margin for ham-fistedness.

A carbon steerer is surprisingly soft. The first time you draw a blade across
you'll probaby think, "i thought this would be harder!"

Take some care not to blow out the final few strokes. I usually start on the opposite side,
and then rotate 180 degrees and cut though from there.

-g

[Dead Man]

Another vote for hacksaw. I score the steerer with a utility knife on the bike, pull it off, and just follow the score mark with the hacksaw. I also like to bevel the new top edge of the steerer just slightly with fine grit sandpaper - just drag the cut edge across a sheet, twisting as you go... helps with getting your sealed bearing caps on and without damaging the o-ring

[iPaul]

What ever you do don't use a pipe cutter. Yes, I saw a shop use one on my new carbon fork :eek:. Kept tightening and then spinning. The cracking sound just didn't sound right. Luckily I had more to remove and appears no real damage (I hope).

Hacksaw and my park guide is the way to go.

[Black Dog]

What ever you do don't use a pipe cutter. Yes, I saw a shop use one on my new carbon fork :eek:. Kept tightening and then spinning. The cracking sound just didn't sound right. Luckily I had more to remove and appears no real damage (I hope).

Hacksaw and my park guide is the way to go.

The word incompetent just got a new meaning!!!!!!!! :eek:

[Lewis Moon]

What ever you do don't use a pipe cutter. Yes, I saw a shop use one on my new carbon fork :eek:. Kept tightening and then spinning. The cracking sound just didn't sound right. Luckily I had more to remove and appears no real damage (I hope).

Hacksaw and my park guide is the way to go.

Jay Eff Cee. I've always said that intelligence is basically having an adequate and varied data set and a fast processor to cross reference for analogs.
That wrench was missing one, or both.

I don't even like using a pipe cutter on steel steering tubes. It leaves a bit of a lip on the outside of the tube which you have to take down in order to get it past the O-ring.

Overall, my best piece of advice is to always mark it and cut it a bit long. Always. I know that's pretty intuitive but, you would be amazed just how many places you can make a measurement/marking/cutting mistake. If you are using a hack saw w/o a guide, the blade will invariably wander a bit. and Murph says: it will wander short. If you have a nice belt sander (cheap, and a very useful piece of kit) you can square the belt to the table/guide and just roll the steerer on the table, against the belt, for a perfectly even finish. Be careful here, too; you can take a lot off pretty quick.
Just remember, that's $300 and a paint job you are working with. Never opt for using your eyeball and/or a ruler in the final fitting. Always fit everything (stem, spacers, compression plug properly torqued before you make the final trim. And don't be in too much of a hurry to trim it to its final, shortest length. Ride for a week or so with a spacer above the stem to make sure your fit is right. You can always take more off, but the alternative is just ugly.

[oldpotatoe]

Jay Eff Cee. I've always said that intelligence is basically having an adequate and varied data set and a fast processor to cross reference for analogs.
That wrench was missing one, or both.

I don't even like using a pipe cutter on steel steering tubes. It leaves a bit of a lip on the outside of the tube which you have to take down in order to get it past the O-ring.

Overall, my best piece of advice is to always mark it and cut it a bit long. Always. I know that's pretty intuitive but, you would be amazed just how many places you can make a measurement/marking/cutting mistake. If you are using a hack saw w/o a guide, the blade will invariably wander a bit. and Murph says: it will wander short. If you have a nice belt sander (cheap, and a very useful piece of kit) you can square the belt to the table/guide and just roll the steerer on the table, against the belt, for a perfectly even finish. Be careful here, too; you can take a lot off pretty quick.
Just remember, that's $300 and a paint job you are working with. Never opt for using your eyeball and/or a ruler in the final fitting. Always fit everything (stem, spacers, compression plug properly torqued before you make the final trim. And don't be in too much of a hurry to trim it to its final, shortest length. Ride for a week or so with a spacer above the stem to make sure your fit is right. You can always take more off, but the alternative is just ugly.

With carbon steerers, you should have a wee spacer above the stem anyway. So the stem clamp, clamps on all steerer.