Road Tripping Northwestern US - must see / must stay places

[Wayne77]

We've decided to vacation with the family in the great old American tradition...pack the kids in the car, drive for hours, stay a few days at different locations on the way, etc. I think it's going to be tons of fun.

Anyway, we were thinking of starting in Salt Lake City, heading north to Yellowstone...and then maybe up to Coeur D' Alene for a day or two, then head west over to Oregon and drive down the Pacific coast and maybe stay in a small town on the coast close to the beach...head down to see the Redwoods...then over to Reno/Tahoe, and from there back to SLC. I'm sure it'll be a week and a half on the road at least. Here's a possible route (https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Ogden,+UT/Bend,+OR/Lincoln+City,+OR/Coos+Bay,+OR/Crescent+City,+CA/Humboldt+Redwoods+State+Park,+Avenue+of+the+Giants ,+Weott,+CA/Ogden,+UT/@42.599531,-118.7213219,6z/data=!4m44!4m43!1m5!1m1!1s0x87530e94da9c4d7b:0x61d cd77b34b32c!2m2!1d-111.9738304!2d41.223!1m5!1m1!1s0x54b8c0ffa5d3d251: 0x1088e7acc720d1b4!2m2!1d-121.3153096!2d44.0581728!1m5!1m1!1s0x54ea8d760b76b d77:0x71530e6a7d2ce862!2m2!1d-124.0178914!2d44.9581644!1m5!1m1!1s0x54c3842b1c6c0 4e1:0x67d7f4c7ddc01229!2m2!1d-124.2178903!2d43.3665007!1m5!1m1!1s0x54d066375c628 8db:0x76e89ab07375e62e!2m2!1d-124.2025913!2d41.7557501!1m5!1m1!1s0x54d463c73284e 3b3:0x3716989f535a3fa!2m2!1d-123.929573!2d40.368176!1m5!1m1!1s0x87530e94da9c4d7 b:0x61dcd77b34b32c!2m2!1d-111.9738304!2d41.223!3e0) that would skip Yellowstone (we've been there a few times)

I'm very familiar with everything from Utah, north to Yellowstone...but after that it's all new. I've been to Coeur D' Alene and thought it was gorgeous. Not familiar at all with the northern PCH. I've only driven it in So Cal.

So...along those routes, any recommendations? Particular things to see, places to stay, etc? What towns along northern PCH would you recommend staying in? Ideally nothing super expensive...we want to take in the PCH views and hopefully stay close to the beach at some point. Are there any scenic byways you'd recommend to divert off the major highways along that route? Anyone familiar with Coos Bay or Lincoln city?

thanks!

[gianni]

My $.02:
In Montana drive through the bitter roots and Hamilton. On the pch, Lincoln is okay; my wife and I love yachats to the south and manzanita to the north, before cannon beach. The latter is scenic but pricey during the summer. You really can't go wrong.

[Steelman]

Lincoln City has a long, wide, fairly scenic beach. Great for walking. There is a well-stocked outlet mall right in the city, tax free of course. There is a family-friendly, first-nations casino complex, with very reasonable rates, right on the water. Stayed there and paid less than what the Motel 6 was charging on the highway. Not five star though.

This used to be a great place to stay on the coast, great beach, almost all to yourself. Ownership has changed, so read the reviews at tripadvisor.

http://www.oceanhaven.com/

If you are looking for gear, Sierra Trading Post is right on the route, in Idaho, and probably Reno. Don't forget your coupon code.

[levels1069]

If you head way northwest, Leavenworth, WA was a really cool bavarian town. Hiking around there is among the best we've ever done (we day hiked Aasgard Pass). Continuing on, the San Juan Islands was absolutely beautiful. The ferry ride out there is fun, lots of b&b and places to camp, and seeing the pods of orcas was a once in a lifetime event for us.

Dan

[mhespenheide]

I've done a lot of travel through the area and would be happy to chime in again, but really -- what do you want out of the trip? Are you focused on seeing mountains and scenery, getting into little cowboy towns, camping, etc.?

I've done the drive between Seattle and Salt Lake a number of times, and I have to say that the stretch of 84 between leaving 15 and Boise ... isn't too charming.

If you're looking for mountains, I'd wind north through Bear Lake on 89 and go past the Tetons, get through Yellowstone and head out the NE exit over the Beartooth Plateau to Red Lodge. Then west on 90 towards Missoula and south on 93 past the Bitterroots, then south on 75 through the Sawtooths. Personally I'd then head to Bend - Crater Lake - Grant's Pass - Crescent City and the redwoods. I'd think about hitting Yosemite and Great Basin on the way back, too, if you haven't been there before.

I'm a sucker for mountains, though...

[Ken Robb]

Lake Tahoe is one of my favorite places and it may be even more beautiful than it looks the best Kodachrome postcard photos. The drive south from Lassen Park on Rte. 89 is lovely and it gets you to the north shore which is my favorite side.

[lonoeightysix]

Lost Coast/Mattole Rd in Northern CA, Overleaf Lodge in Yachats OR is nice. If you have any interest in going all the south down to SF, I'd jump back on 1; that stretch takes you much closer to the Pacific than 101 in the north.

How old is the fam?

[ORMojo]

For Oregon in general, since you say you aren't familiar with the area, perhaps review this thread if you haven't already: http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=147092

Specifically regarding Oregon coastal towns, since you asked, Coos Bay would be near the bottom of my list (sorry!). Lincoln City is OK. I prefer, North to South, Astoria, Newport, Yachats, Bandon & the southern OR coast. In between Astoria and Newport, the Seaside/Gearhart/Cannon Beach area is OK, and very family friendly. Seaside has a nice beach promenade and carousel and is particularly family friendly, but can get quite crowded with Portlanders and other tourists during the summer and nice-weather weekends during the school year.

If Lincoln City is right for your itinerary, consider looking at the Gleneden Beach area just south of Lincoln City for a quieter place to stay and some attractions. This includes the Salishan Resort, Side Door Café, Mossy Creek Pottery (worth a 30+ minute stop just 2 minutes off of the Pacific Highway) and Alderhouse Glass Blowers (2 minutes further off of the Highway on the same road), Barking Dog Farm (gardens, produce, restaurant), and more.

In Newport, consider the Oregon Coast Aquarium, the Marine Science Center, Rogue Brewery (root beer for the kids), and Saffron Salmon and Local Ocean Seafoods for restaurants. You could stay at Little Creek Cove (rental condos), or this VRBO vacation rental (http://www.vrbo.com/345737) located on the second floor above Saffron Salmon right on the bay with a nice deck hanging over the bay (our family has used this rental numerous times).

If your kids/family are into this, consider dune buggy rentals at the dunes around Florence.

[gasman]

I agree with what ORmojo has to say except that Salishan Lodge in Gleneden Beach is nice but expensive compared to other places.
If you are traveling for only one and a half weeks any of the itineraries are pretty big to bite off. It will mean lots of driving with little time to see the sights.
I would try to make a more modest trip, drive less and spend more time in an area.

[ORMojo]

I agree with what ORmojo has to say except that Salishan Lodge in Gleneden Beach is nice but expensive compared to other places.

True . . . but look for deals, often, if not constantly available for Salishan via Groupon Getaways or other sources. My kids like Salishan because it is quiet, with an often unoccupied nice indoor swimming pool complex, a pleasant and easy nature trail, and other reasons. I'll admit that I am biased because I've been staying there since it opened when I was a kid in the late 60s (1967?).

If you are traveling for only one and a half weeks any of the itineraries are pretty big to bite off. It will mean lots of driving with little time to see the sights. I would try to make a more modest trip, drive less and spend more time in an area.

Absolutely agree - as a matter of fact, this was my very first thought when I read the original post. You describe a very big loop for 1.5 weeks - I could comfortably make three 1.5 week trips out of all of that territory.

[Ken Robb]

I agree with the comment that a week and a half isn't enough time to cover all the ground you are considering.
Take a look at Meeks Bay Resort on the west side of Tahoe. It's a great place for a family vacation. One week there and a couple of travel days each way could be fun.

[dustyrider]

That's a lot of country you're taking about. I've tried to to do big tours like this, and I've come to realize I enjoy immersing myself in the culture of a smaller area much more.

You've seen Yellowstone and you know Utah, so pick Oregon, Washington or Idaho to get familiar with instead. The coast of California is an adventure worthy of its own vacation.

When I vacation, I don't want to feel like I need a vacation afterwards...

Stand outs for me in these areas include: Bend, Portland, Olympic pen., San Juans, Leavenworth, Ross Lake, Seattle, Bellingham, 55 north out of Boise and then 95 to the Kootenai nat. Forest or cut off into nez perce.
All of which really deserve, and in some cases require, 10 days or more to experience. I obvisouly like Washington the most. Lived there for almost two years just to make sure Colorado was really what I wanted. I find the coast of Washington to be far more appealing than Oregon, but I'm a backpacker not a bb type.

[Vientomas]

From Coeur d'Alene, if you were headed for the Oregon Coast, you would travel west on I-90 to Ritzville and then south on 395 to Tri-Cities. This is a 2.5 hour drive. From Tri-Cities you would continue south on 395 to I-84 and then west on I-84 towards Portland. It is about another 3.5 hours from the Tri-Cities to Portland and then additional driving time to the Coast. So, you have a full day of driving from Coeur d'Alene to the Coast.

If you like wine, Walla Walla is about 30 minutes from the Tri-Cities and has about 25 tasting rooms in a 6 block area downtown.

From Coeur d'Alene to I-84 is not a scenic drive at all. It is easy driving 4 lane highway the entire distance. The greatest hazard is falling asleep at the wheel.

Once you enter the east end of the Columbia River Gorge, you have the river to look at and the scenery improves as you drive West.

Going as far north as Coeur d'Alene may not be the most efficient destination if you want to maximize your time on the Coast. If you do decide to go to Coeur d'Alene, maybe consider checking out Glacier NP on the way.

Have fun!

[kevinvc]

It is off the beaten path, but easily combined with a visit to Bend, OR (visit the High Desert Museum along the way).

Crater Lake is truly one of the most unique and beautiful places in the world that I've ever seen. It is well worth the time to visit. They do a couple of days each year when they don't allow cars on the East Rim and it's bicycles only. If your trip coincides with this, I can't recommend it strongly enough. But even just driving the loop, hitting the overviews and doing the car-tourist thing is well worth the effort.

[coylifut]

Since the Redwoods are on the list, my favorite stand is the Jedediah Smith State Forest. There are some cabins to rent. They book up months in advance. There's a gravel road that meanders through the stand within meters of the very tallest Redwoods known to man. I believe the name of the road is Howland Hill road. My favorite place to stay on the OR side of the boarder is Gold Beach.

If you are driving south from there on 101 don't stop in Eureka. I've never seen more meth head zombies. Stop in Ferndale for the Victorian architecture.

[josephr]

+1 on Crater Lake. Should be a required visit for everyone. If you're in Washington, Grand Coulee Dam is neat...but the drive down the Columbia Gorge is amazing.

[Ken Robb]

My wife is in SLC this week for a convention of choir directors. Last night she raved about her dinner at The Copper Onion and tonight she's at a concert by The King's Singers. So far a wonderful time.

[Wayne77]

Kids are 6, 9, and 11.

This all great advice everyone! It'll be fun to take some of this and revise/tweak our route a bit

Lost Coast/Mattole Rd in Northern CA, Overleaf Lodge in Yachats OR is nice. If you have any interest in going all the south down to SF, I'd jump back on 1; that stretch takes you much closer to the Pacific than 101 in the north.

How old is the fam?

[Wayne77]

Thanks - Oceanhavaven looks like just the type of place we're looking for.

Lincoln City has a long, wide, fairly scenic beach. Great for walking. There is a well-stocked outlet mall right in the city, tax free of course. There is a family-friendly, first-nations casino complex, with very reasonable rates, right on the water. Stayed there and paid less than what the Motel 6 was charging on the highway. Not five star though.

This used to be a great place to stay on the coast, great beach, almost all to yourself. Ownership has changed, so read the reviews at tripadvisor.

http://www.oceanhaven.com/

If you are looking for gear, Sierra Trading Post is right on the route, in Idaho, and probably Reno. Don't forget your coupon code.

[Wayne77]

I've done a lot of travel through the area and would be happy to chime in again, but really -- what do you want out of the trip? Are you focused on seeing mountains and scenery, getting into little cowboy towns, camping, etc.?

I've done the drive between Seattle and Salt Lake a number of times, and I have to say that the stretch of 84 between leaving 15 and Boise ... isn't too charming.

I totally agree about the stretch between SLC and Boise. One year we timed it so bad that the sun was right in our windshield the whole time
...so not only was the scenery pretty dull, but we could barely see anything!

Anyway...I think we might decide to skip heading North too far and find a scenic route NE towards the Oregon coast, drive down the coast, stay a few places along the way, then towards SF, and then over to Reno/Tahoe and stay there before heading back. I'd love to work in Yellow Stone or maybe Couer D' Alene, but that's just too big of a loop to allow for enough down time at our stops

[Wayne77]

just the guidance we're looking for. To be honest I threw out Coos Bay as a default option only because it stood out on the map, assuming we'd tweak our itinerary based on feedback. Much appreciated

For Oregon in general, since you say you aren't familiar with the area, perhaps review this thread if you haven't already: http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=147092

Specifically regarding Oregon coastal towns, since you asked, Coos Bay would be near the bottom of my list (sorry!). Lincoln City is OK. I prefer, North to South, Astoria, Newport, Yachats, Bandon & the southern OR coast. In between Astoria and Newport, the Seaside/Gearhart/Cannon Beach area is OK, and very family friendly. Seaside has a nice beach promenade and carousel and is particularly family friendly, but can get quite crowded with Portlanders and other tourists during the summer and nice-weather weekends during the school year.

If Lincoln City is right for your itinerary, consider looking at the Gleneden Beach area just south of Lincoln City for a quieter place to stay and some attractions. This includes the Salishan Resort, Side Door Café, Mossy Creek Pottery (worth a 30+ minute stop just 2 minutes off of the Pacific Highway) and Alderhouse Glass Blowers (2 minutes further off of the Highway on the same road), Barking Dog Farm (gardens, produce, restaurant), and more.

In Newport, consider the Oregon Coast Aquarium, the Marine Science Center, Rogue Brewery (root beer for the kids), and Saffron Salmon and Local Ocean Seafoods for restaurants. You could stay at Little Creek Cove (rental condos), or this VRBO vacation rental (http://www.vrbo.com/345737) located on the second floor above Saffron Salmon right on the bay with a nice deck hanging over the bay (our family has used this rental numerous times).

If your kids/family are into this, consider dune buggy rentals at the dunes around Florence.

[Wayne77]

Absolutely agree - as a matter of fact, this was my very first thought when I read the original post. You describe a very big loop for 1.5 weeks - I could comfortably make three 1.5 week trips out of all of that territory.


Great points guys - I was getting a little over ambitious. So much beautiful country to see...so little time!

[Wayne77]

My wife is in SLC this week for a convention of choir directors. Last night she raved about her dinner at The Copper Onion and tonight she's at a concert by The King's Singers. So far a wonderful time.


We LOVE the Copper Onion!

[Ken Robb]

We LOVE the Copper Onion!

She sat at The Kitchen Table and enjoyed the show as well as the food. BTW, Meeks Bay Resort rents studios to 3 br. units and all have kitchens. Families pretty much let their kids have the run of the place while the parents chill. It has a private beach (I have stayed in lakefront units with private patios) and all kinds of play areas for kids and adults. There is a marina with the cheapest boat,paddle board rentals I have found. They have a pretty good web site so you can see what they have to offer.

[OtayBW]

The drive across the Bitteroots along the Lochsa River on Hwy 12 between Missoula and ~Lewiston, ID is fantastic.