PDA

View Full Version : campy veloce 10 sp cable installation driving me bonkers


jh_on_the_cape
02-24-2015, 05:33 PM
I can see how it should go. Line up the little hole on the ratcheting thing. Insert campy cable but then it has to turn up through the mount and out then down to the housing. I have kinked or unraveled two of my three cables trying this. Before I ruin the last one and go Wiggins on the bike... any help? I think any bike shop monkey I bring it to would be just as knowledgeable as I am unless I go to some campy guru... why do I need a guru to replace a cable? This is for the front left shifter.

dustyrider
02-24-2015, 05:56 PM
No luck on YouTube?

donevwil
02-24-2015, 06:12 PM
Are you trying to swap the cable with the lever mounted on the bar, housing run and bars wrapped ? Are these Gen 3 levers ?

I'm no pro mech so I always partially unwrap the bars and loosen the housing as it ends up saving time in the end.

tuscanyswe
02-24-2015, 06:17 PM
I don't let the cable go up before it goes down so to speak. The bend is to steap for that. I use whatever pointy item i have laying around to push / stear the cable directly into the slot where the housing goes, assuming you are trying to get the cable routed on the back of the bar that is.

thwart
02-24-2015, 06:26 PM
Unless you're a really lucky sort of guy (btw the soldered pointed ends of new Campy cables really helps here), re-doing cables on 10 spd Campy usually requires partial bar tape removal and pulling the cable housing out of the ergo a bit. Then you pass the new cable thru the ergo, into the housing, reassemble, and have a beer.

enr1co
02-24-2015, 06:42 PM
Unless you're a really lucky sort of guy (btw the soldered pointed ends of new Campy cables really helps here
+1
Were the cables ruined brand new w/ soldered ends or were you re-using cables? Even if you think the end of a used cable is cut cleanly, it may not be clean enough to thread through the shifter.

jemoryl
02-24-2015, 06:54 PM
I thought maybe it was just me who had this problem! As someone who has older 10-spd. Campy ergos and some new-shape (ca. 2013) Centaur, I found cable threading on the latter infuriating.

jh_on_the_cape
02-24-2015, 07:25 PM
I thought maybe it was just me who had this problem! As someone who has older 10-spd. Campy ergos and some new-shape (ca. 2013) Centaur, I found cable threading on the latter infuriating.

I think these are new style. That you have to unwrap tape and all that to change a cable is ftarded.
Nothing on YouTube.

jemoryl
02-24-2015, 07:34 PM
I think these are new style. That you have to unwrap tape and all that to change a cable is ftarded.
Nothing on YouTube.

Just one more irritating thing that is making me question my allegiance to Campy....they have been doing a good job in alienating this long term user in recent years.

choke
02-24-2015, 07:36 PM
I'm confused as to where the problem is....if you mean making that sharp turn in the opening on top of the body just do as tuscanyswe said and use something to keep the cable up against the shifter body. I've also read, though not tried it myself, that making a bend in the cable about 1/2" from the end works well.

FWIW, I have threaded new cables into old housing on Campy 11 more than once without removing anything. It required a bit of patience but wasn't that bad IMO.

Ralph
02-24-2015, 09:06 PM
I don't remember any problem at all. What gear do you have it in?

ultraman6970
02-24-2015, 10:53 PM
1st thing, the brifter needs to be in the 1st gear.... all the way down the little pad.

As tuscany said, I do exactly what he said, once the cable shows up I grab whatever I can use to help the cable to go through the hole, the other thing I have done sometimes is just bend down like 5 mm off the tip of the cable after it showed up throught the 1st hole. That makes my life easier to be able to get to the second hole...

fogrider
02-25-2015, 12:59 AM
I think these are new style. That you have to unwrap tape and all that to change a cable is ftarded.
Nothing on YouTube.

everything is on YouTube, you're not searching with the right words. just make sure you are using a campy compatible cable or it will get stuck.

jh_on_the_cape
02-25-2015, 01:22 AM
everything is on YouTube, you're not searching with the right words. just make sure you are using a campy compatible cable or it will get stuck.

Your YouTube skills exceed mine sensei. Please provide a link. Or the right words with which to seek the prophecy

jh_on_the_cape
02-25-2015, 01:24 AM
I'm confused as to where the problem is....if you mean making that sharp turn in the opening on top of the body just do as tuscanyswe said and use something to keep the cable up against the shifter body. I've also read, though not tried it myself, that making a bend in the cable about 1/2" from the end works well.

FWIW, I have threaded new cables into old housing on Campy 11 more than once without removing anything. It required a bit of patience but wasn't that bad IMO.
The problem is the turn after the cable goes through the little hole that holds the cable end then up from the bottom out the top.

oldpotatoe
02-25-2015, 06:16 AM
Just one more irritating thing that is making me question my allegiance to Campy....they have been doing a good job in alienating this long term user in recent years.

Ya have to do the same thing for shimano and spam sir.

It's not that hard, all have inner wires that start either below or inside the lever. Using a new cable makes it pretty easy, IMHO, on all 3. The worse being spam, since it has to wrap as it goes thru the lever. At least shimano(7900+) and Campag is a straight shot. BUT new levers come with inner wire installed. Easiest way for newest shape Campag, is to have the lever off the bike so you can see the spool, hole and where it exits from the back.

sloar
02-25-2015, 06:38 AM
I had this problem, worked with it for hours. Shifter wasn't in the right gear. Slid right through once I corrected the gear.

Lewis Moon
02-25-2015, 07:37 AM
I've never had a "problem" with this. It's complexificated, but if you've prepped the cable and cable housing ends correctly (grinder or belt sander to square off the housing, no stray wires on the cable), follow Campy's instructions and twist the cable in the direction that will wind the strands up rather than unravel them while you fish for the hole, it's not really hard.

Edit: I always switch cables when I have to pull the cables completely out. That is: the back goes on the front, the front goes in the trash can and a new one goes on the rear. This allows you to clip the crushed portion of the cable off so you have a clean end to fish through. This goes for brake and shifter.

jemoryl
02-25-2015, 08:41 AM
Ya have to do the same thing for shimano and spam sir.

It's not that hard, all have inner wires that start either below or inside the lever. Using a new cable makes it pretty easy, IMHO, on all 3. The worse being spam, since it has to wrap as it goes thru the lever. At least shimano(7900+) and Campag is a straight shot. BUT new levers come with inner wire installed. Easiest way for newest shape Campag, is to have the lever off the bike so you can see the spool, hole and where it exits from the back.

My experience is mostly installing Campy cables on my own bikes, so I need to defer to your experience with the S-brands. Having said that, I almost always use new, genuine Campy cables, which come with a nice little point on the end. Never had a problem with inserting the inners (usually a 5 minute job) until the first time in installed my new shape Centaur levers. It is clear why the process is more difficult when you look at the way things line up at the little y-shaped channel. The fact that one even needs to think about this is a step back.

My disillusion began in earnest when Campy went from a range that had similar functionality and interchangeability across the range, Mirage to Super Record, to one with a myriad of small changes and incompatibilities. The start might be when the guts of the Centaur ergos and below were downgraded from what was above.

oldpotatoe
02-25-2015, 08:49 AM
My experience is mostly installing Campy cables on my own bikes, so I need to defer to your experience with the S-brands. Having said that, I almost always use new, genuine Campy cables, which come with a nice little point on the end. Never had a problem with inserting the inners (usually a 5 minute job) until the first time in installed my new shape Centaur levers. It is clear why the process is more difficult when you look at the way things line up at the little y-shaped channel. The fact that one even needs to think about this is a step back.

My disillusion began in earnest when Campy went from a range that had similar functionality and interchangeability across the range, Mirage to Super Record, to one with a myriad of small changes and incompatibilities. The start might be when the guts of the Centaur ergos and below were downgraded from what was above.

2007. It's about $, IMHO. 2009/2010 Innards were the same from SR to Veloce again, then back to reality, and an attempt for Campagnolo to try OE again(2011 Athena and below). BUT Campagnolo compatibility, until 2015, wasn't an issue but compatibility is always in play, as with shimano(11s).

I donno, I saw all of this stuff. All the same, just a little different. I think how it works, how it feels in your hand, how reliable it is, should determine which you choose. Not how easy or hard it is to install a der. cable. IMHO.

choke
02-25-2015, 09:02 AM
The problem is the turn after the cable goes through the little hole that holds the cable end then up from the bottom out the top.OK, that's what I thought. I can't remember what I used the last time I installed cables to hold it down and force it to make the turn....maybe the end of some needle-nosed pliers. Anything that's thin enough to fit in the channel will work.

jemoryl
02-25-2015, 10:15 AM
2007. It's about $, IMHO. 2009/2010 Innards were the same from SR to Veloce again, then back to reality, and an attempt for Campagnolo to try OE again(2011 Athena and below). BUT Campagnolo compatibility, until 2015, wasn't an issue but compatibility is always in play, as with shimano(11s).

I donno, I saw all of this stuff. All the same, just a little different. I think how it works, how it feels in your hand, how reliable it is, should determine which you choose. Not how easy or hard it is to install a der. cable. IMHO.

Sure its at least partly about money. But some of it smacks of pure marketing and a realization that some of us discovered that buying a $200 pair of Centaur ergos would give us just as a very similar experience to spending $500 for SR. If 90% of the internal parts of ergos were the same, which costs less: making 100,000 of them or designing two mechs and making 60,000 of one and 40,000 of the other? Only Campy knows...

At least we don't have Valentino derailleurs at one end and Record at the other!

Lewis Moon
02-25-2015, 10:26 AM
Sure its at least partly about money. But some of it smacks of pure marketing and a realization that some of us discovered that buying a $200 pair of Centaur ergos would give us just as a very similar experience to spending $500 for SR. If 90% of the internal parts of ergos were the same, which costs less: making 100,000 of them or designing two mechs and making 60,000 of one and 40,000 of the other? Only Campy knows...

At least we don't have Valentino derailleurs at one end and Record at the other!

Pretty much every company markets this way; never make a lower priced model with all the functionality of a higher priced unit.
This is one of the main reasons I pretty much buy everything used. You get last year's Record for the price of this year's centaur.
BTW: I own a set of the 2010 Centaur ergos. Some of the best money I've spent.

jh_on_the_cape
03-02-2015, 06:22 PM
For the greater good here is how I did it.
I just needed good cable cutters. I put the cable through horizontally and pulled out a bit then put it up through to the top. To pull this through you kink the cable a bit. ·I cut off the kinked part then finished.·

If you try to make the turn by guiding with some little tool you just end up fraying the cable end.·