Who waxes their chains? Opinions, good, bad or otherwise?

[LesMiner]

A mechanic at an LBS just raved to me about using chain wax from a local company Molten Speed Wax (http://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/how-to-wax) I've heard of this before. Long ago I can remember some company packaging wax in a round container like a can of car wax. I understand its basically paraffin like sealing wax for canning fruits and vegetables. The cleaning process they describe seems rather intense. Three cleanings in successive fresh Mineral Spirits baths. Even on a new chain, which does have some lube on it. This mechanic uses wax on all his mountain bikes, road bikes, fat tire bikes, all his bike chains I guess. Seems like awful lot of work. You need to remove the chain so a quick link is needed. Then all that cleaning, and do what with the spent Mineral Spirits? Then soak in the hot wax. Let cool and harden. Clean up excess to be ready for use. Is it worth all that trouble and expense?

[p nut]

A mechanic at an LBS just raved to me about using chain wax from a local company Molten Speed Wax (http://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/how-to-wax) I've heard of this before. Long ago I can remember some company packaging wax in a round container like a can of car wax. I understand its basically paraffin like sealing wax for canning fruits and vegetables. The cleaning process they describe seems rather intense. Three cleanings in successive fresh Mineral Spirits baths. Even on a new chain, which does have some lube on it. This mechanic uses wax on all his mountain bikes, road bikes, fat tire bikes, all his bike chains I guess. Seems like awful lot of work. You need to remove the chain so a quick link is needed. Then all that cleaning, and do what with the spent Mineral Spirits? Then soak in the hot wax. Let cool and harden. Clean up excess to be ready for use. Is it worth all that trouble and expense?

Sounds like chain vs belt scenario to me. Why fix something if it's not broken? Regular chain lube every now and then has worked for me.

[josephr]

there was a discussion about this recently...IMO, its a PITA to have to remove/reinstall a chain everytime it needed a lube. Several others, myself included, commented that we use or have used wax-based lubes such as White Lightening with positive outcomes.

[redir]

White Lightening is great for cross and mtb from my experience because it sheds mud so well and mud is a killer in your drive train. Having said that I found that it doesn't even last enough for a 100 mile ride. Maybe because I always applied it right on the bike IDO but I didn't like it for road use. I jsut use regular lube everywhere now.

[Steve in SLO]

I used molten paraffin for a while back in the 70s, but at the time it was too much of a hassle with chain removal and reinstall. I would not even consider it now that there are better lubes and liquid waxes on the market.

[TPetsch]

I recently switched to Squirt.

My LBS had a single dusty bottle sitting there for some time, when I asked about it I was told that some guy special ordered it and never picked it up so I picked it up for myself.

All the benefits of White Lightening but less build-up & seems to last a little longer too. I'm on my second bottle now.

http://www.squirtlube.com/

[ceolwulf]

I use paraffin. With the Wipperman link chain removal and reinstall is a non-issue. (Also it's easier to get the rest of your drivetrain spotless without the chain there.) The deep cleaning is really only needed to get the lube off a new chain.

It doesn't last as long as oil, but keeps everything so clean and runs so quiet I stick with it. I cannot stand greasy grimy chainrings.

Velo News also tested paraffin to be just about the fastest lube you can use if you're after those last two watts.

You do need a little forethought to fire up the slow cooker in time (at least that's what I use) and im occasionally lacking in that so I do keep a bottle of Squirt on hand. It's wax too so they play nice together. If you oil the chain you're back to square one with the cleaning.

[jet sanchez]

I use paraffin. With the Wipperman link chain removal and reinstall is a non-issue. (Also it's easier to get the rest of your drivetrain spotless without the chain there.) The deep cleaning is really only needed to get the lube off a new chain.

It doesn't last as long as oil, but keeps everything so clean and runs so quiet I stick with it. I cannot stand greasy grimy chainrings.

Velo News also tested paraffin to be just about the fastest lube you can use if you're after those last two watts.

You do need a little forethought to fire up the slow cooker in time (at least that's what I use) and im occasionally lacking in that so I do keep a bottle of Squirt on hand. It's wax too so they play nice together. If you oil the chain you're back to square one with the cleaning.

Am I right to think that paraffin is good in the rain?

[milkbaby]

That's too much work for me, and it doesn't stay in the chain as well as oil.

I don't mind dirty looking chains and cogs, it's dirt that gets wicked into the interior of the chain where the rollers, bushings, and pins contact that really wears your chain out.

[ceolwulf]

Am I right to think that paraffin is good in the rain?


Honestly it rains here during riding season so little I've hardly tested it. It stays cleaner but you will have to re-wax after, same as any other lube.

[earlfoss]

I use paraffin on my race bike and rotate between 2 chains so I always have one on deck.

It's pretty hassle free, my drivetrain is cleaner, and if there are extra watts to be had all the better.

[ceolwulf]

The heavens opened, angels sang, and Earl said:

I use paraffin on my race bike and rotate between 2 chains so I always have one on deck.




Two chains is genius, why did I never think of that?

[Ralph]

I used that Molten wax in the can many years ago. Would heat up the wax on the stove, drop in a clean or new chain, let wax mix in, then take out and dry. Then clean excess wax off chain. What a mess. Realize it would get simpler if you did it longer.

Thought it was a lousy chain lube. Would never use again.

[nublar]

I just send it to these guys:
http://ultrafastoptimization.com/optimize-my-chain/

[Cicli]

I used Molten for a little bit. I even had the little heating pot gizmo. It was not good lube. The chain ran clean but was noisey.
I didn't like it.
Sold the whole getup with only having used a little bit. It was a hassle.

[MikeD]

I recently switched to Squirt.



My LBS had a single dusty bottle sitting there for some time, when I asked about it I was told that some guy special ordered it and never picked it up so I picked it up for myself.



All the benefits of White Lightening but less build-up & seems to last a little longer too. I'm on my second bottle now.



http://www.squirtlube.com/


That's my favorite chain lube.

[Seramount]

I used molten paraffin for a while back in the 70s, but at the time it was too much of a hassle with chain removal and reinstall. I would not even consider it now that there are better lubes and liquid waxes on the market.

same here...

brings back memories of the 'bad ol' days'...

the process was a time-consuming PITA and the paraffin only lasted about 100 miles.

[zap]

same here...

brings back memories of the 'bad ol' days'...

the process was a time-consuming PITA and the paraffin only lasted about 100 miles.

Matches my experience.

The biggest issue is that prepping a chain for paraffin eliminates the best lube the chain will ever see……..from the factory.

Chain lube is something I just don't think much about these day's. Install new chain, ride and clean as needed. At some point I will refresh (on the bike) with Phil or Finish Line or NFS as needed to get me to 2-3K miles when it's time for a new chain.

[El Chaba]

I put wax in the same category as other "dry lubes"...inadequate for a bicycle chain....For that matter, "dry lube" is an oxymoron.....

[bikerboy337]

I've had great success with white lightning the past few years, which is a wax lube... lube and clean off every 2-3 rides, quick and easy, and no issues, super quiet...

I woulndnt ever go through teh hassle of actual wax on a chain, can't imagine itd be worth the time or effort... or mess...

[Stephen2014]

Has anyone just got a big candle and give the chain a good allover rubbing? I use a big candle as a wood sawing lubricant, rubbed into a saw it's excellent.

[djg21]

I used to wax chains in the 80s. I'd use tins of paraffin/PTFE mixture that I'd purchase at Performance. I'd melt the wax by putting in in a pan of water over an electric stove burner. It worked really well, and kept the drivetrain nice and clean. I did find that the wax would melt and evaporate away on really hot summer days.

I too switched away from waxing when wax-based lubes like White Lightening became available, just to avoid the hassle of waxing. Then I started using Prolink, which worked OK, and was cleaner than White Lightening.

I recently started using the NFS, which is highly touted across the hall. At first I was skeptical and adverse to paying the high price ($16/bottle). But is does seem to work as advertised, with a very small amount being necessary and keeping the chain clean and lubed for a good amount of time.

IMO, any benefit gained from waxing is offset by the time and hassle it takes. I'd rather be riding my bike.

[cbresciani]

White Lightning on my MTB works great especially here in Phoenix where the trails are so dry and dusty. Pro Gold extreme on my road bikes which works great too.

[Dead Man]

Wax..... why?

Nobody ever says why

[Tony T]

I recently started using the NFS, which is highly touted across the hall.

Not surprised at that: Nix Frix Shun was developed by Josh Simonds, one of the main guys behind Velocipede Salon (http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/04/21/found-nix-frix-shun-bicycle-chain-lube-made-for-real-ballers/)
…and I never will understand how it can lube a chain with only 5 drops (http://gearfinder.bicycling.com/maintenance/lube/nixfrixshun-nfs-chain-lube).

[djg21]

5 drops may be optimistic for a first application. Maybe it works for reapplication? I used essentially what Silca is calling the 12-12-12 method on newly cleaned chains. http://silca.cc/products/silca-nfs-pro-chain-lube (Yes Silca has rebranded the stuff). It worked pretty well on my MTB in the snow over a handful of rides. I also have it on the bikes my wife and I have on our Computrainers, but that isnt a real test.

[Tony T]

yeah, says 10 drops first, then 5 on re-application.
I would give it a try, but I hesitate at $22 w/shipping for 2oz
(I'll stick with ProGold for now)

[djg21]

One if the local bike shops near me stocks it. Savile Road (http://savileroad.com), which is near Albany. The owner is on the forum -- RedRider.

[velotrack]

I just send it to these guys:
http://ultrafastoptimization.com/optimize-my-chain/

Whoa.
I wonder how many sales they get?

[oldpotatoe]

A mechanic at an LBS just raved to me about using chain wax from a local company Molten Speed Wax (http://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/how-to-wax) I've heard of this before. Long ago I can remember some company packaging wax in a round container like a can of car wax. I understand its basically paraffin like sealing wax for canning fruits and vegetables. The cleaning process they describe seems rather intense. Three cleanings in successive fresh Mineral Spirits baths. Even on a new chain, which does have some lube on it. This mechanic uses wax on all his mountain bikes, road bikes, fat tire bikes, all his bike chains I guess. Seems like awful lot of work. You need to remove the chain so a quick link is needed. Then all that cleaning, and do what with the spent Mineral Spirits? Then soak in the hot wax. Let cool and harden. Clean up excess to be ready for use. Is it worth all that trouble and expense?

Waxed mine religiously in the late 80s. Small can of chain paraffin, put chain rolled up on top, can in pan of water. Wax melted, chain to bottom of can, let soak. Fished it out, placed on newspaper to dry, chain back on. Wax flew everywhere for a few feet, rode and found that for about 3 rides, really quiet, then I had to do it again..PITA, Then used Triflow, now use WD-40 LUBE-

On one ride, when the thing was really squeaky, noisy, stopped at a gas station, fished a used can(yep, when oil came in cans) of oil outta trash, used little bit of what was left onto the chain, rode..really quiet and not that dirty when I finished(SoCal).

[jmeloy]

5 drops may be optimistic for a first application. Maybe it works for reapplication? I used essentially what Silca is calling the 12-12-12 method on newly cleaned chains. http://silca.cc/products/silca-nfs-pro-chain-lube (Yes Silca has rebranded the stuff). It worked pretty well on my MTB in the snow over a handful of rides. I also have it on the bikes my wife and I have on our Computrainers, but that isnt a real test.


Used the same plan and really pleased to date. Chain is uber quiet.

[simonov]

Used the same plan and really pleased to date. Chain is uber quiet.

Same here. I've been using this stuff for a while now with the 12-12-12 method and it works great. The lube lasts a very long time, so while it's not the cheapest with shipping, it ends up being a value as you don't go through it nearly as fast as other lubes.

[SlackMan]

I have wax and use it occasionally. To do only one chain at a time is probably not worth the hassle of melting the wax, etc. But if you have a bunch of chains you can do in succession, then it's not that big of a hassle.

[Tony T]

After how many miles do you guys re-apply NFS?
(I'm used to applying ProGold after each 100 miles)

[djg21]

After how many miles do you guys re-apply NFS?
(I'm used to applying ProGold after each 100 miles)

Thus far, I've only had to wipe my chains down with a shop rag after riding. There has been plenty of lube left on the chain. It's the wrong season to really gauge longevity of the lube.

[Tony T]

I'm curious now, so I'll probably get a bottle from Amazon.

[Black Dog]

Chain-L (http://www.chain-l.com) is as good as NSF, cheaper, and lasts a long long time between re-appying. A bottle will last for many years. Been using it for about 4 years now on all my bikes and love it (Less than 20% of bottle used) . Makes the drive train silent and chains tend to last longer than with Prolink Gold.

[aramis]

I wax mine. I think it's easier than dealing with all the drivetrain funk of lube. Fire up slow cooker, put chain in. Hang dry put chain on. Hardest part is cleaning a new chain.

[simonov]

After how many miles do you guys re-apply NFS?
(I'm used to applying ProGold after each 100 miles)

Depends a little on the conditions you ride in, but I've gone as long as 350 miles before the chain started making enough noise for me to reapply the NFS. It was during a dry time of year so rain wasn't an issue.

[Tony T]

Chain-L (http://www.chain-l.com) is as good as NSF, cheaper, and lasts a long long time between re-appying.

I tried a Chain-L free sample, but couldn't take the smell (I keep my bike inside, if it were not in "smelling range", it wouldn't have bothered me :))

[djg21]

I tried a Chain-L free sample, but couldn't take the smell (I keep my bike inside, if it were not in "smelling range", it wouldn't have bothered me :))

I tried the Dumonde Tech lube and my wife nixed it for the same reason. My workshop adjoins the finished basement where we watch TV and the place stunk.

[Tony T]

While googling NFS, I came across "Rock-N-Roll Gold Chain Lube"
Anyone use this?

[Cicli]

While googling NFS, I came across "Rock-N-Roll Gold Chain Lube"
Anyone use this?

Yep, I really like it.

[OtayBW]

While googling NFS, I came across "Rock-N-Roll Gold Chain Lube"
Anyone use this?I used R&R for years - great lube. Better than anything I ever used previously. That said, I did buy a bottle of NFS at a bike show recently and gave it a fair try. Completely clean drive train and application. It is a little counterintuitive if you go by the application directions, which say to: [paraphrasing] drag a thin thread of lube along the outer plates of the chain as you pedal backwards, followed by another thin whisp of a thread dragged the same way along the inner plates. 'Thin thread' meaning what emerges when this highly viscous material is 'pulled away' from the nozzle when the lube adheres to the chain plate. Hard to describe - but that is essentially the equivalent of the 5 drops, or 10 drops - or whatever is described by some.

Bottom line for me: I do find it difficult to get the application exactly right as specified, but it is possible. You can get it in the ballpark at the very least. Definately don't overapply it and you're good. Performance-wise, it has been every bit as good or better than R&R in terms of quiet drivetrain performance for equal or better miles. I do briefly wipe down the chain after every ride, and the one distinct plus that I can say is that the chain has never been cleaner or shinier. At $15.00 a pop(plus shipping - Yow!), I don't know that it's twice as good. However, it is very good and I do expect that what I have left in the bottle (essentially the entire bottle less just the one application) will last me throughout the 2015 season - at least....

So, that's the story....

[Tony T]

I was looking at Rock N Roll on Amazon, and wow, how many different types do they have? Looks like 4 or 5 — Blue, Red, Gold, Extreme, sounds like different flavors of Doritos :)

[Cicli]

I was looking at Rock N Roll on Amazon, and wow, how many different types do they have? Looks like 4 or 5 — Blue, Red, Gold, Extreme, sounds like different flavors of Doritos :)

I dont know, I use the gold on everything. Even pancakes. :banana:

[bdawe]

mmm, pancakes...

[twors]

I tried Rock N Roll Gold recently and didnt care for it much. It started quiet but went bad about 50 miles later. IDK, maybe I did something wrong? I've tried many chain lubes but my go to lube is a simple 50/50 mix of 90wt gear oil and OMS.

[lucasfarr92]

From my experience in shops, wax works wonders, it's just time intensive and not worth it.

[Tony]

I've tried so many different lubes over the years on many different bikes and compared them, lots mentioned in this thread. I'm currently using finish line dry.
For a long lasting drivetrain and quite performance it really boils down to maintenance between lubing. Take a dry rag and wipe down the chain around every 75-100 miles or so. If you do this many lubes that penetrate and sets up dry will work great.

[dolface]

How's it do in slop? I use Finish Line Wet and basically have to wipe down my chain after every ride BUT it's quiet as hell.

I've tried so many different lubes over the years on many different bikes and compared them, lots mentioned in this thread. I'm currently using finish line dry.
For a long lasting drivetrain and quite performance it really boils down to maintenance between lubing. Take a dry rag and wipe down the chain around every 75-100 miles or so. If you do this many lubes that penetrate and sets up dry will work great.

[Tony]

How's it do in slop? I use Finish Line Wet and basically have to wipe down my chain after every ride BUT it's quiet as hell.

When I MTB in wet conditions (not recently here in CA) I use a wet lube. I have been using two different wet lubes for over a decade, Pedro's syn lube atb and for real muddy/wet conditions Slick Honey. Both have served me well in those conditions.



Chain lubrication is one of those personal choices, folks have varying opinions on their favorite chain lubes. Just the other day I met someone who swears that his chap stick tube of Barts bee wax warmed in his pocket is the best chain lube ever :)