bike touring Finger Lakes

[eddief]

considering an unloaded tour here at some point in the future. I know our now not to be heard from Douglas Brooks used to invite Forumites to the hood for tours near his home. But I am thinking 10 days or so and wondering if it is generally a great place to ride. I hear climbing should be expected.

[bigman]

I have limited experience in this area, plenty of hills, great vistas and nice roads.
a bike shop in Geneva recommended skyline drive by Keuka Lake they said it was the best of finger lakes cycling. I did that ride and it was memorable.
it's also a great place to bring a fatter tired rig as there are plenty of nice unpaved roads. I loved taking my 650b road rig to this part of the world, gives you tons of options.

[CNY rider]

Come give it a try with us this summer: http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=161565

We are east of the Finger Lakes but with very similar terrain and riding.

[soulspinner]

I have limited experience in this area, plenty of hills, great vistas and nice roads.
a bike shop in Geneva recommended skyline drive by Keuka Lake they said it was the best of finger lakes cycling. I did that ride and it was memorable.
it's also a great place to bring a fatter tired rig as there are plenty of nice unpaved roads. I loved taking my 650b road rig to this part of the world, gives you tons of options.

What Big said. Be sure to have a 27 minimum in back unless you are a cat 2. I live in Rochester and feel this is some of the best cycling in the northeast. Wineries, great views of awesome lakes, excellent restaurants and freakishly fast descending (ya ya gotta get up first). You wont be disappointed.

[45K10]

The in-laws live in Geneva, Ny. Great riding around the area and the bike shop in Geneva is great resource for local routes. Definitely have a 27 or a compact to make things more enjoyable. Also there are some great wineries all around there!


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[oddsaabs]

We've done multiday rides in the Finger Lakes in the past by making base camp in either Canandaigua (http://www.canandaiguanewyork.gov/) and/or Hammondsport (http://www.hammondsport.org/) and then doing day rides from there. Endless variety of route with tons of climbs as well as valley routes around them. If the spouse/partner isn't into riding, the wineries and such are a pleasant diversion.

Late summer, early fall would be a great time to go. You could finish your vacation by tackling the Highlander. http://www.highlandercycletour.com/ A ride not to be taken lightly.

[eddief]

No worries. I am oldish and ride with the lowest gears in my bike club. I need them here and would bring them there. Like I mean 26 granny on the front and 34 in back. Yesterday did 3700 hundred feet in 35 miles.

[David Kirk]

World class riding in the area - you won't be disappointed.

dave

[soulspinner]

We've done multiday rides in the Finger Lakes in the past by making base camp in either Canandaigua (http://www.canandaiguanewyork.gov/) and/or Hammondsport (http://www.hammondsport.org/) and then doing day rides from there. Endless variety of route with tons of climbs as well as valley routes around them. If the spouse/partner isn't into riding, the wineries and such are a pleasant diversion.

Late summer, early fall would be a great time to go. You could finish your vacation by tackling the Highlander. http://www.highlandercycletour.com/ A ride not to be taken lightly.

Highlander has kicked many a cocky rider in the butt. 20 percent Bopple hill and last year the route went over it twice..........

[GregL]

I live in Sibera-cuse, but often ride in the Finger Lakes area. The rural roads around Keuka and Canandaigua lakes are wonderful. A mix of rolling terrain and climbs with beautiful views of the lakes, farms, and vineyards. Avoid the main roads (Routes 14, 20, 96, etc...) and you will be rewarded with little traffic. The traffic you do see will include tractors, combines, and horse-drawn Mennonite buggies. We pay high taxes in NY, but that does mean the roads are generally in very good condition with wide shoulders.

A hidden gem in Hammondsport: The Keuka Artisan Bakery & Deli. The owners are cyclists and welcome fellow riders like long-lost relatives. Great food and they will fill up your water bottles for you :).

- Greg

[zennmotion]

I (sadly) no longer live in the area, but I grew up in the farm country between Cayuga and Seneca lakes, with 15+ years of riding in the area, especially in the southern end- most of the organized rides and other folks here are more or less based around the north ends of the lakes (e.g. Canandaigua, Geneva etc) which are spectacular. A 10 day tour definitely gives you time to see the region pretty well- PM me and I can help fill you in on the areas around Ithaca, Watkins Glen, Keuka which are my old familiar roads, and equally beautiful in my opinion, just a little more off the usual wine buff/genteel tourist track. I still get back a few times a year to visit family. The hills can be steep, but not usually very long, and often can be avoided if you want. There is also plenty of flat to gently rolling terrain especially between the lakes so you can pick what you like. There are plenty of gravel roads too that are usually avoided by the organized rides and tour companies. PM me to exchange Email/phone info if you like.

[zennmotion]

We've done multiday rides in the Finger Lakes in the past by making base camp in either Canandaigua (http://www.canandaiguanewyork.gov/) and/or Hammondsport (http://www.hammondsport.org/) and then doing day rides from there. Endless variety of route with tons of climbs as well as valley routes around them. If the spouse/partner isn't into riding, the wineries and such are a pleasant diversion.

Late summer, early fall would be a great time to go. You could finish your vacation by tackling the Highlander. http://www.highlandercycletour.com/ A ride not to be taken lightly.

Or make a base camp in Ithaca, plenty of options for spouses and kids. One idea would be to integrate the Grassroots Music Festival, family friendly, 4 stages, 4 days in July in Trumansburg, just north of Ithaca. Amazing variety of local and international bands, lots of stuff for kids to do. And amazing riding in any direction from there- parks, waterfalls, lakes, wineries,gravel. Park the family at the festival grounds and ride in the morning into the afternoon, then lay out on the lawn with a beer listening to music through the evening, sleep a little (or not) and repeat the next day. http://www.grassrootsfest.org/festival/

[Ken Robb]

Les and I have stayed in Canandaigua twice and loved it. It's on a beautiful lake, has a charming Main Street, is home of NY State Wine and Culinary Institute for excellent inexpensive dining, and Oliver Phelps B+B which is the best we have ever enjoyed. Jack and Donna will treat you like family.

If you want a fun day of easy pedaling you can ride along the Erie Canal Towpath.

[eddief]

It will be with a touring org that I have done many rides with. All hotels and routes will be taken care of in advance. Just trying to judge if this is a good place to be. Sounds like it is a great place to be.

[MattTuck]

I'm a Cornell grad, so I'd be remiss if I didn't point out that Ithaca and surrounding area has some great things to do off the bike as well. If you end up in Ithaca, let me know and I'll put a list together for you!

[zennmotion]

It will be with a touring org that I have done many rides with. All hotels and routes will be taken care of in advance. Just trying to judge if this is a good place to be. Sounds like it is a great place to be.

You'll have a great time, but I guarantee the touring org will stay on the obvious routes and not take you to the super-secret best roads:cool:, just-offroad swimming holes with waterfalls, abandoned colonial-era cemeteries or unlisted micro-producer wineries... but you'll be back again for sure. Oh, by the way it can be gorgeous or days of uninterrupted gray skies and pissing rain at any time of the year. Just in interest of balanced reporting.

[Bradford]

I also lived in Ithaca during parts of my misspent youth. I spent many a nice day riding west out of Ithaca, occasionally stopping at a winery to fill my water bottle. Once I made it through the Octopus alive, those were beautiful rides.

If you make it up to Trumansburg, swing by the Rongovian embassy for some local flavor.

If you have 10 days, think about a some rides in the Adirondacks. I'd give just about anything to get back there for a few days.

[zennmotion]

One more thing (geez you think I'm homesick or what?). If you're a history buff, do some reading on the Sullivan Campaign- a less than proud story of colonial atrocity, George Washington's own genocide against the Iroquois nation in the summer of 1779; you'll be riding through many of the areas that were "cleared" of the Indians in order to carve the land up to distribute as payment to the revolutionary war vets- by burning all the villages and fields in late summer. Only a few survived starvation the following winter only by walking a few hundred miles to Canada where they were given some shelter by the British. Some location names are retained or approximated from the Iroquois, while others were re-named by a colonial-era surveyor clerk after grandiose cities and figures from the Greek classics- in an effort to promote and encourage early settlers to the then "frontier"- which had been conveniently already cleared for farming by the Iroquois.

[AngryScientist]

some great information in this thread.

i was thinking about heading up that way for an extended weekend or two to do some cycling. sounds great.

if there is interest i can try and organize something for a get together to ride.

[45K10]

You'll have a great time, but I guarantee the touring org will stay on the obvious routes and not take you to the super-secret best roads:cool:, just-offroad swimming holes with waterfalls, abandoned colonial-era cemeteries or unlisted micro-producer wineries... but you'll be back again for sure. Oh, by the way it can be gorgeous or days of uninterrupted gray skies and pissing rain at any time of the year. Just in interest of balanced reporting.


Oooh, please share the super secret routes. I ride up there 2 or 3 times a year and would love to go on some rides like that!


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[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . and I attended DBRK's events and have ridden several centuries on MS rides out of Seneca Falls and Canandaigua. I have also done several MS bike tours around the Keuka Lake area.

There are many resources available online that will let you organize your own tour and it shouldn't be too hard to put together a point-to-point route that has you at a different B&B every night. It's also wine country and many of those are associated with wineries.

In my experience, Canandaigua makes a good home base. Plenty of lodging and dining right on the lake, and between two landforms. Go south and southwest into the hills among the lakes, or go east and northeast toward Geneva and it's flat as a board. Geneva has a great bike shop at Geneva Cycle Center. Seneca Lake is the birthplace of Women's rights and the inspiration for Bedford Falls in the movie "It's a Wonderful Life." South from there is Watkins Glen, with the famous gorge that provides the town name and the Grand Prix race circuit. Hundreds of wineries in the area. Nice.

The one important thing to remember in that area is that the north-south valleys that contain the lakes are VERY deep. Go north or south along the top of the wide, flat ridge between Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, for instance, and you would think you're in Kansas. Flat, with endless fields of corn, barns, silos, etc. Great riding if you stick to just north-south.

But go east of west and you quickly see a stunning vista out over the valley of the lake, you see the vineyards, and you start to go down, down, down to the lake. Of course, that means you have to climb back up, up, UP again!

If you want a varied trip, I'd highly suggest you contact CNY rider and join us at his Dirtphalt event scheduled this year for June 27-28 in the Cooperstown area. You can do it on a cross bike or wide-tire touring bike. He lives there and uses his local knowledge to take us on several day-long no-drop rambles along all the secluded paved and dirt roads in the area, which is the eastern edge of the north-south rides that form the Southern Tier of NY state and the Finger Lakes. It is a small, intimate gathering that is a whole lot of fun. You could maybe join us for the weekend, then head west to Candaigua, etc.

Cooperstown has the Baseball Hall of Fame, Farmer's Museum, Fenimore Art Museum, Ommegang brewery, Glimmerglass opera, and more. Really nice area!

PM me if you need more info.

BBD

[BumbleBeeDave]

some great information in this thread.

i was thinking about heading up that way for an extended weekend or two to do some cycling. sounds great.

if there is interest i can try and organize something for a get together to ride.

I would be up for this!

BBD

[AngryScientist]

I would be up for this!

BBD

great. i'm going to rough together a plan. it's wintery here and i'm dreaming about warm spring days.

[professerr]

I've ridden a fair amount in the Finger Lakes area, and think it is OK but now that I, like the OP, live in the SF Bay area, don't think I'd ever head there as destination for a cycling trip. Kinda like living in Aspen and flying to Hunter Mountain to ski. Still, if you're gonna be there anyway, plenty of nice rides.

Flame away East Coasters :)

Oh and I also thought the drivers in that area were among the more hostile/intolerant towards cyclists that I've encountered, so I'd definitely bear that in mind in terms of picking routes and kit.

[JulRip]

Live here and ride most days. You are welcome to stay with me if interested. Have done many brevets in the area including Quadzilla so have lots of cue sheets and knowledge of local rides.

[bigman]

Hey can you post those que sheets?
I have one child left at Cornell and never go up for a visit without a bike.
You have to get really lucky on the weather unless you are there in the summer months, a perfect fall day in this region must be off the charts.

[feFIFO]

Go Big Red. Anyone know if Glenn Swan is still running his part-time shop out of his barn in Ithaca? Man, he was (is?) the coolest. Test rode a first-gen Softride mountain bike on his property. Good, bouncy fun.

[Hardlyrob]

Go Big Red. Anyone know if Glenn Swan is still running his part-time shop out of his barn in Ithaca? Man, he was (is?) the coolest. Test rode a first-gen Softride mountain bike on his property. Good, bouncy fun.

Glenn appears to still be there - great guy, and incredibly knowledgeable. He built my first custom frame in 1982 after I trashed a Raleigh Pro. Rode it unpainted through that spring collegiate cycling conference season. Ithaca is a wonderful place to ride (grew up there, and went to school there), but you WILL be using your climbing legs.
Cheers!

Rob

[feFIFO]

Glenn appears to still be there - great guy, and incredibly knowledgeable. He built my first custom frame in 1982 after I trashed a Raleigh Pro. Rode it unpainted through that spring collegiate cycling conference season. Ithaca is a wonderful place to ride (grew up there, and went to school there), but you WILL be using your climbing legs.


Great to hear. And just getting up to Glenn's property involves a punchy little climb, as I recall.

[zennmotion]

I've ridden a fair amount in the Finger Lakes area, and think it is OK but now that I, like the OP, live in the SF Bay area, don't think I'd ever head there as destination for a cycling trip. Kinda like living in Aspen and flying to Hunter Mountain to ski. Still, if you're gonna be there anyway, plenty of nice rides.

Flame away East Coasters :)

Oh and I also thought the drivers in that area were among the more hostile/intolerant towards cyclists that I've encountered, so I'd definitely bear that in mind in terms of picking routes and kit.

Fightin' words no doubt. And given this time of year on the frozen east coast, we're in no mood for guff from the land of hipsters and drought, so you just stay away mister. I've done my share of riding in the Bay area as well. Apples and oranges, Ardennes and Provence... I will grant that the wine, outside a few dry white varieties, sucks compared to Napa. But you need to try the unpasteurized cider from 100 year old heirloom trees. Or for that matter cold spring water right out of the rock out of a glacial gorge wall. And I don't know about what you encountered on the road, but it certainly wasn't any of my kin or neighbors, but probably other tourists, and if you had any issues at all with traffic you were definitely on the wrong road. :fight: BTW, nearly all the main highways and roads in the area have wide shoulders, necessary for snow removal.

[Sean Mac]

I just got back from quick getaway in Geneva. When we left this morning to come home it was +1 degrees and snow was blowing like crazy. However, the sun was out, so I was thinking about possible bike rides.

As I left Geneva, my thought was to head back this summer and plan some rides around one or more of the lakes. However, from what I have read in this thread, it seems like the local secondary roads are the way to go. I would love to hear more about local favorite roads. If it worked out, I would also be open to a group ride in the region this summer. Unfortunately, the gathering in Cooperstown does not fit into my schedule.

[zennmotion]

I just got back from quick getaway in Geneva. When we left this morning to come home it was +1 degrees and snow was blowing like crazy. However, the sun was out, so I was thinking about possible bike rides.

As I left Geneva, my thought was to head back this summer and plan some rides around one or more of the lakes. However, from what I have read in this thread, it seems like the local secondary roads are the way to go. I would love to hear more about local favorite roads. If it worked out, I would also be open to a group ride in the region this summer. Unfortunately, the gathering in Cooperstown does not fit into my schedule.

As far as I know, Steve Bauer still holds the record for circling Cayuaga lake (approx 88 miles with a couple of "small" hills) in a little more than 3 hours. So you can do a couple in a day, with time for a leisurely lunch and a winery tour.

[majorpat]

Yep, the backroads are key. Just look at the map, the main north-south road is usually right along the lakeshore but just go away from the lake a bit and a great secondary road usually parallels the main road. For example, on the east side of Skaneateles Lake Rt 41 is the main road but go east a bit more and you can link Woodworth, Nunnery and Rose Hill roads to get to the same general area. On the northeast side of the region, Skaneateles is a great base of operations. Have fun and let me know when you are here.
Pat

[Rekalcitrant]

This is a bit further east, but loads of fun for anyone into self-abuse: http://onondagacyclingclub.org/rides-and-tt/dantes-inferno/

[eddief]

On Day 2 of riding, we head to the Finger Lakes. Our route takes us through pleasant, rolling farmland before reaching the village of Canandaigua. The native Iroquois called this "Kah-nan-dah-kwe” meaning “the chosen spot”, and it’s hard to find a more beautiful lake…until we visit the other five on this trip! Dinner tonight will be at a local establishment.

Day 3 we ride the shore of Canandaigua before headed east toward Seneca Lake, passing through Geneva and the hamlet of Seneca Falls, generally believed to be the inspiration for Bedford Falls, the fictional town in the classic 1940 film, It’s a Wonderful Life. Seneca Falls also played a prominent role in the Women’s Rights Movement, and riders may want to visit the Women’s Rights National Park.

Day 4 we make our way toward the picturesque village of Skaneateles, riding down the east shore of Cayuga Lake (the longest of the lakes) and up the west shore of Owasco Lake. We spend two nights in Skaneateles. Day 5’s optional ride is one of the best, taking you around Skaneateles Lake and high above Otisco Lake.

Day 6 we head to the city of Ithaca, home of Cornell University. We will be staying downtown with its many dining options, including a group dinner at the famous Moosewood Inn, a groundbreaking vegetarian restaurant. You will be delighted how good their fare is with a new menu is announced daily. Day 7 is an optional ride day.

Day 8 is one of more arduous days as we ride north on the east side of Cayuga Lake, passing through Taughannock State Park. We then turn west toward Seneca Lake, where we have beautiful lake vistas before dropping into the village of Watkins Glen.

Mileage is short and sweet on Day 9, so we will kick it off with a short hike through Watkins Glen State Park, boasting a 400’ deep gorge teeming with 19 waterfalls. After our hike we head northwest, enjoying two nights in Penn Yan. Day 10 is our only complete shoreline circumnavigation as we spin out our legs around beautiful Keuka Lake.

After a couple fairly easy days we have to pay the piper, and we will do just that on Day 11 as we travel from Penn Yan back to Canandaigua. But the climbs do come with rewards as we will see one of the most beautiful vistas in the Finger Lakes…a full length view of Canandaigua Lake while perched 800’ above the water surface. We return to Canandaigua one more night before returning to Rochester on Day 12 via the Erie Canal Trail and our departing dinner. Your departure date is Tuesday, June 21.

[Ken Robb]

I have driven most and ridden some of those roads and they are all terrific. I guess that the big plus of the tour vs. just riding the area on your own is having the tour operator schlep your luggage?

[AngryScientist]

sounds fantastic.

i imagine this would provide some good motorcycle riding too eh?

[soulspinner]

Keuka and Canandagua r my faves.

[jemoryl]

Eddief,

As someone who has spent a lot of time in the area and who still manages to get up there a couple times each year, I offer this critique of your proposed routes.

Leaving Canandaigua and heading east (I should mention in passing it not my favorite FL town): are you planning to take Rt. 5&20? It is a fairly busy and not particularly scenic highway all the way to Seneca Falls. I would check out alternative county roads, e.g. county Rt. 4 north of the state highway. Geneva and Seneca Falls are worth checking out, but I might not head there directly.

Instead I would probably do a more zig-zag route through the region, sticking to back roads and the occasional state highway. Something like Canandaigua to Naples-Branchport-Hammondsport (good climbing up Italy Hill from Naples). Then maybe Hamondsport-PennYan, over to the west side of Seneca, where you could go north to Geneva or south to Watkins Glen. From either, you could then ride to Ithaca - I might be tempted to cut across from the east side of Seneca to Trumansburg (one of my favorite towns) co. rt. 1 and then to Ithaca.

If you like wine, the highest concentration of good wineries in the region is to be found on the east side of Seneca along Rt. 414 between Burdett and Ovid. As one might expect from a cool-climate region the whites, especially Riesling, are generally better than reds. Some places (e.g. Damiani) do a great job with reds, especially in a warm year (2012 was good). This stretch is also a good place to get a decent meal (this can be hard out in the more rural stretches): Dano's, Red Newt and Stone Cat are three good places. There are other winery gems scattered around the other lakes as well. To my knowledge, there is no really good place to eat in Watkins Glen. Ithaca is the best overall place to eat and get some culture. Don't miss the farmer's market if it is being held.

I think my suggestion introduces more hills, but so it goes. Enjoy, it is a great region.

[zennmotion]

I think I can do much better for you on day 8's route- what you described I'd hardly call (in local terms anyway) "arduous". If you want ardouous, you can easily find it, but going over the hump from Taughannock to Watkins isn't that bad. I'd skip the Moosewood as over-rated (and I'm a vegetarian) for better fare elsewhere, and +100 if you could take a group of hungry cyclists into the Ithaca Farmer's market for a Sat or Sunday lunch. PM me if you want route ideas for days 6, 7, or 8 I can see those roads with my eyes closed. I hope your tour can replace a little of the Karma lost to another Bike tour company that used a local Rotary club to provide breakfast (as a fundraiser for the club and service for the tour) then disappeared without paying. I'm still looking for that guy...

[jemoryl]

I think I can do much better for you on day 8's route- what you described I'd hardly call (in local terms anyway) "arduous". If you want ardouous, you can easily find it, but going over the hump from Taughannock to Watkins isn't that bad. I'd skip the Moosewood as over-rated (and I'm a vegetarian) for better fare elsewhere, and +100 if you could take a group of hungry cyclists into the Ithaca Farmer's market for a Sat or Sunday lunch. PM me if you want route ideas for days 6, 7, or 8 I can see those roads with my eyes closed. I hope your tour can replace a little of the Karma lost to another Bike tour company that used a local Rotary club to provide breakfast (as a fundraiser for the club and service for the tour) then disappeared without paying. I'm still looking for that guy...

Yeah, I didn't want to slag off the Moosewood, but it not the best place in Ithaca these days. Last summer a post-ride meal at the Northstar House was great, starting with good beer in the garden and the World Cup on a big screen. The menu leans locavore and does well for vegetarians too: http://www.northstarpub.com/Northstar_House/Welcome_to_Northstar.html
Not in the center of town, but worth finding.

[mike p]

Yup the Moosewood is old hat, try the Saigon Kitchen in Ithaca. Great vegetarian and regular dishes.
I've ridden all over the US including the bay area and the Fingerlakes region is some of the best riding in the country. Ithaca has a great racing and touring community. Glenn's still in the shop up on Mt. Pleasant and this time of year were all doing lots of CX skiing! Enjoy your time there you'll have a blast.

Mike

[Ken Robb]

I think he's signing up for a tour and will have little control over where he is on a given night. Having said that, Les and I had some great food/wine at the NY State Culinary Institute in Cannandaigua. Even the RED wine was good! :)

[csm]

I've enjoyed the Red Dove in Geneva when up there for the vintage race weekend at the glen. Worth checking out.


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[eddief]

Yes, it will be an organized tour without much of my own specific control. But it sounds as if mostly where the tour is going is in the heart of what is good about the region. Been on 10 tours with this organization and all have been good to ridiculously good, so if no red flags posted here, then I am in the right ball park.

[zennmotion]

I think he's signing up for a tour and will have little control over where he is on a given night. Having said that, Les and I had some great food/wine at the NY State Culinary Institute in Cannandaigua. Even the RED wine was good! :)

Ah, I stand corrected, I thought this was a potential tour operator making plans. To the OP: pack a rain jacket....

[jemoryl]

Oh, I joined the thread late and also didn't realize the discussion was about an organized tour. Sounds like a great trip in any case.

[EDS]

Keuka and Canandagua r my faves.

Agreed, even though I got married in Skaneateles.

[paredown]

Agreed, even though I got married in Skaneateles.

Well. there is Doug's Fish Fry in Skaneateles (http://www.dougsfishfry.com/)--I'm pretty partial to that as a stop-off...

[soulspinner]

Agreed, even though I got married in Skaneateles.

Skaneateles is my wifes favorite town.

[Ken Robb]

Skaneateles is my wifes favorite town.

It might be mine too but I don't know how to pronounce it. :)

[soulspinner]

It might be mine too but I don't know how to pronounce it. :)

:p

[majorpat]

Agreed, even though I got married in Skaneateles.

So did I, St James.

Some say, "skinny-atlas"

[parris]

It sounds like a really fun tour through a beautiful part of the state. The advice of a rain jacket is a good one. Also depending on the day Doug's Fish Fry has several mobile trailers that set up throughout the region for fund raisers and it's worth it if you like good fish at a reasonable price.

[Mr. Pink]

Who is the tour operator?

[eddief]

Who is the tour operator?
Done many trips with them.