Spoke length calculator and ordering spokes etc.

[LiveFreeOrDie]

Hello everyone. Going to order some rims/spokes/nipples today so I can some wheels built by my LBS. This is my first time doing this. Ordering rims, spokes, nipples, etc.

I noticed that when I use a spoke calculator, it comes up with 3 to 4 different lengths of spokes for the left side and right side, which I understand why. If my results are like 292.3 or 294.1, do I round up or down to the size?

I'm assuming that the shop has the ability to cut the spokes if needed?

Thanks for your help/suggestions. :)

[oldpotatoe]

Hello everyone. Going to order some rims/spokes/nipples today so I can some wheels built by my LBS. This is my first time doing this. Ordering rims, spokes, nipples, etc.

I noticed that when I use a spoke calculator, it comes up with 3 to 4 different lengths of spokes for the left side and right side, which I understand why. If my results are like 292.3 or 294.1, do I round up or down to the size?

I'm assuming that the shop has the ability to cut the spokes if needed?

Thanks for your help/suggestions. :)

?? I use this spoke calc..put in rim ERD, hub dimensions(flange diameter and center to flange), drilling and cross and you should get

one number for RH rear, one for LH rear and one for front.

http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator

I generally round up unless it's .1/.2. Remember spokes are plus/minus 1mm anyway when made. And depends on the flange as well. Real fat ones, like DT, I round up. Big spoke holes, I use spoke washers and round up as well.

If the shop has a spoke cutter/threader, yes, they can cut/thread them. Most don't have one and a lot don't even know what they are.

[Formulasaab]

Firstly, if the shop is doing the build they probably would prefer to perform their own spoke length calculations. I know mine would. Shoot, even though I do my own builds they want to check my numbers before ordering the spokes for me because they don't want to see me make a mistake and have to deal with me trying to return spokes I can't use. They have done this hundreds of times.

But to answer your other questions...

Round up or round down?
Do the spokes you are ordering come in odd numbered sizes or even numbered sizes or both?

If your calcs suggest a 292.3 length spoke and your chosen spoke comes in odd-number sizes, then choose the 293. If they come in even-number sizes, then choose the 292. If both, I'd go with the 292. Assuming your calculations are correct, there's zero chance of being too short by 0.3mm.

Cutting spokes is easy, but it leaves you with less thread than you want. Threading spokes requires a rather specialized (read "expensive") tool that many shops won't have in this day and age. They'll probably tell you to just buy the right spoke.

Finally, check your calcs. Use as many calculation tools as possible to cross-check the results. You'll see that almost none of them agree with each other exactly, but will probably all be close.

Or, let the shop do that part since it is they who have to work with the parts.

Good luck!

[oldpotatoe]

Firstly, if the shop is doing the build they probably would prefer to perform their own spoke length calculations. I know mine would. Shoot, even though I do my own builds they want to check my numbers before ordering the spokes for me because they don't want to see me make a mistake and have to deal with me trying to return spokes I can't use. They have done this hundreds of times.

But to answer your other questions...

Round up or round down?
Do the spokes you are ordering come in odd numbered sizes or even numbered sizes or both?

If your calcs suggest a 292.3 length spoke and your chosen spoke comes in odd-number sizes, then choose the 293. If they come in even-number sizes, then choose the 292. If both, I'd go with the 292. Assuming your calculations are correct, there's zero chance of being too short by 0.3mm.

Cutting spokes is easy, but it leaves you with less thread than you want. Threading spokes requires a rather specialized (read "expensive") tool that many shops won't have in this day and age. They'll probably tell you to just buy the right spoke.

Finally, check your calcs. Use as many calculation tools as possible to cross-check the results. You'll see that almost none of them agree with each other exactly, but will probably all be close.

Or, let the shop do that part since it is they who have to work with the parts.

Good luck!

Hmmm, hundreds of times, why don't they keep spokes in stock?

Just had to ask. I'm guessing the shop doesn't build a lot of wheels then?

[LiveFreeOrDie]

Hmmm, hundreds of times, why don't they keep spokes in stock?

Just had to ask. I'm guessing the shop doesn't build a lot of wheels then?

I guess this is a good way to tell if they do or do not build a lot of wheels. Is it advisable to just go with a seasoned wheel builder or what? I pretty confident my LBS can build a wheel.

[oldpotatoe]

I guess this is a good way to tell if they do or do not build a lot of wheels. Is it advisable to just go with a seasoned wheel builder or what? I pretty confident my LBS can build a wheel.

Relooked at original post and the bike shop is gonna build the wheels, yes? Tell them what ya want, hubs, rims, drilling, crossing(they may have a good opinion about this) and let them figure out length. It's what they do.

If ya want, send the hubs and rims to me and I'll build them.

[Formulasaab]

Hmmm, hundreds of times, why don't they keep spokes in stock?

Just had to ask. I'm guessing the shop doesn't build a lot of wheels then?

Sorry. My bad. Thousands then. ;)
I don't work there so I may not have the best feel for the scale of throughput.

They do have spokes in stock, lots of them. Just never the ones *I* want.

[LiveFreeOrDie]

Relooked at original post and the bike shop is gonna build the wheels, yes? Tell them what ya want, hubs, rims, drilling, crossing(they may have a good opinion about this) and let them figure out length. It's what they do.

If ya want, send the hubs and rims to me and I'll build them.

Hello OldPotatoe how are you? Narrowed my choices down to some H Plus Son Archetypes or some DT 440's to go with my Ultegra 6500 hubs. Yes...my LBS will be building the wheels. I'm just trying to do this without totally breaking the bank. Shipping costs, etc. I'll just bring them the rims and call it a day. They can figure out the spoke lengths etc.

By the way...how much do you charge to build a wheel?

[Vinci]

I rounded up on my last build and wish I had rounded down. I ended up with the spokes annoyingly close to running out of thread.

[notoriousdjw]

Round up or round down?
Do the spokes you are ordering come in odd numbered sizes or even numbered sizes or both?

If your calcs suggest a 292.3 length spoke and your chosen spoke comes in odd-number sizes, then choose the 293. If they come in even-number sizes, then choose the 292. If both, I'd go with the 292. Assuming your calculations are correct, there's zero chance of being too short by 0.3mm.



Lots of places don't sell odd lengths so I do what Formulasaab does. In my most recent build, the spoke lengths came out to 283.0, 287.1, 292.3, 291.0. I rounded down on the 292.3 measurement but up on all the others to end up with 284,288,292,292 for my order. If odd lengths were available it would have been 283,287,293,291.

[Hermes_Alex]

I personally use SpoCalc to do my spoke calculations - regarding the whole round-up-vs-round-down thing, I always just round to the closest available length, assuming that you've been given good measurements for your rims and hubs. Sometimes that is not the case, which can be a massive headache!

As far as litmus tests to gauge a good wheelbuilder, I find that the strongest indicator of competency is what tensiometer they use. People who use Park or Wheelsmith tensiometers (or no tensiometer at all) should be avoided. Those who have spent the money to get DT Swiss/Wheel Fanatyk/FSA/Hozan or some other similar gauge generally recognize their essential part in good building technique, and care enough about the job to do good work.

[oldpotatoe]

I personally use SpoCalc to do my spoke calculations - regarding the whole round-up-vs-round-down thing, I always just round to the closest available length, assuming that you've been given good measurements for your rims and hubs. Sometimes that is not the case, which can be a massive headache!

As far as litmus tests to gauge a good wheelbuilder, I find that the strongest indicator of competency is what tensiometer they use. People who use Park or Wheelsmith tensiometers (or no tensiometer at all) should be avoided. Those who have spent the money to get DT Swiss/Wheel Fanatyk/FSA/Hozan or some other similar gauge generally recognize their essential part in good building technique, and care enough about the job to do good work.

Ain't the best, but I used a Wheelsmith one for over a decade and it is fine. I have a DT one now, and tried a FSA one but didn't like it.
The guys that either use 'feel' or music tones are the ones to be avoided, IMHO.

[JAGI410]

Since your LBS is doing the building, let them do the calcs and ordering.

If you're building them yourself, get whatever length you want (odd or even) from Dan's comp for about 52 cents per silver DB spoke with brass nipple including shipping. Best deal I've found and their service is top notch. If it's a double wall rim, I round up. +/- 1mm as OP mentioned is a pretty "safe" tolerance.

[AngryScientist]

this reminds me that i have a wheel build to complete. looking forward to locking myself in the basement shop with a bottle of scotch, a nipple wrench and linseed oil. very relaxing.