profile racing track hubs?

[AngryScientist]

recently i was shopping for a hub for a particular wheel build that checked all of the below boxes:

[] 130 spacing
[] fix-fix threaded
[] 28 hole
[] 44mm chainline

as far as i can tell, no one else makes this particular combination. after a bit of searching, i did find the profile racing hub, so i bought one, and just recently built it up to an archetype rim.

the quality looks to be pretty good, and the bearings feel nice and smooth, so i am not concerned, but anyone have profile racing hubs and care to comment on them? miserable weather here has kept me off the roads for a few weeks, so just looking for opinions. i hardly hear them mentioned, anyone running a profile rear?

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/HU9077-01.jpg

[11.4]

They're ok. They don't self-detonate like a lot of track hubs, and the bearings are ok. They will be a pain to service if the bearings ever need it -- small bearing sets and not as accessible as Phil Woods or something like that. It'll be like servicing C-Record hubs with the unnecessary fairing cover. Also, the threaded land for the cog is slightly shorter than on some hubs so your cog hangs off slightly, which means the lockring doesn't engage as well.

For a fixie they should be just fine. You know you can put the ring on the inside of a road crank (either 1/8" or 3/32" fits the same) and put a cyclocross ring guard on the outside to dress it up nicely. Then use a 120 mm hub (for which there are a gajillion options for a fixie) and have your stay ends re-spaced to 120 mm? It just keeps you in standard equipment so resale is better and it's easier to find parts later.

[11.4]

Oh, and those hubs have come both with some decent stainless allen bolts and with some really crappy zinc ones. If the latter, dump them and replace them. The hub should crank down tight without any hesitation.

On that, the lands that clamp into a stay end are pretty small. If you have aluminum stay ends or have thin metal shims over carbon fiber, this rear hub will dig into those more and shorten their lifetime a bit. Once the stay ends are gouged a bit, your hub won't stay put and will walk while you're tightening it up and not want to be firmly in place in certain positions. For a fixie, again, not a big issue, but it helps not to tighten the chain too much -- let it have some slop (about 3/4" top to bottom flex midpoint between cog and chainring). That way it doesn't matter if it walks a tiny bit while tightening.

[AngryScientist]

thanks, you're a beacon of knowledge, as usual.

track ends are nice and beefy on this thing...

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-evIhx3jgH34/VJ8_rviq2mI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/IO1c0kve1KE/s1000/P1080406.JPG

[Rebel_Biker]

I built up a set of profile fix/fix with a 14mm axle 36h for an urban commuter tank bike. It went on a PK Quad Fix. I wanted to build a bullet proof commuter bike for the streets of NYC. I also put profile BMX cranks on the bike. It was bullet proof. Wheel is true and took a beating.