Ibis Hakkalugi (Steel) build suggestions

[adhumston]

Hey all,

I've been wanting a steel cross/all arounder frameset for awhile, and finally ended up with a nice Ibis Hakkalugi steel. I bought the frame off eBay, and it is in really great shape actually, as It spent it's whole life covered in protective tape. After removing the tape, I gave it a light wetsand (2000 - 3000 grit) and buffed it out and it really looks nice. I believe it is a 99/00 frame and Warm Beer Metallic. The bike will be used as a commuter/fun/all around bike.

I have a few questions that fellow forum members may be able to answer... From my research (haven't actually measured yet), this frame takes 135mm rear hub and is designed to run mountain cranks. I'm not too familiar with the process of actually building a bike myself, so I'm wondering if I'm, in fact, limited to running mtb specific cranks, or if it will fit a road crank?

Also, I'm wanting to run a single front ring with a wide range rear cassette (11-32 or 11-36). Can anyone recommend a crank/chainring combo that will work while being aesthetically pleasing with the bike? I'm wanting something with a similar look to a Paul Components crank, and with a 42-46 chainring. I realize I'll more than likely have to run some sort of chainkeeper.

Here's a quick garage pic. The frame really sparkles a lot more in person now!

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x327/adhumston/Hakkalugi%20steel/IMG_5603.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/adhumston/media/Hakkalugi%20steel/IMG_5603.jpg.html)

[soulspinner]

Great find. You will get your answer here, though I don't know. Finished build and ride report please when u get a chance

[fogrider]

That should be a sweet riding bike! I think the frame is designed for low gearing and has chainstay clearance for small mountain bike cranks. some kcnc cranks might have the look you're looking for...what kind brakes are you considering? I would recommend mini Vs. good luck!

[DRietz]

Hey all,

I've been wanting a steel cross/all arounder frameset for awhile, and finally ended up with a nice Ibis Hakkalugi steel. I bought the frame off eBay, and it is in really great shape actually, as It spent it's whole life covered in protective tape. After removing the tape, I gave it a light wetsand (2000 - 3000 grit) and buffed it out and it really looks nice. I believe it is a 99/00 frame and Warm Beer Metallic. The bike will be used as a commuter/fun/all around bike.

I have a few questions that fellow forum members may be able to answer... From my research (haven't actually measured yet), this frame takes 135mm rear hub and is designed to run mountain cranks. I'm not too familiar with the process of actually building a bike myself, so I'm wondering if I'm, in fact, limited to running mtb specific cranks, or if it will fit a road crank?

Also, I'm wanting to run a single front ring with a wide range rear cassette (11-32 or 11-36). Can anyone recommend a crank/chainring combo that will work while being aesthetically pleasing with the bike? I'm wanting something with a similar look to a Paul Components crank, and with a 42-46 chainring. I realize I'll more than likely have to run some sort of chainkeeper.

Here's a quick garage pic. The frame really sparkles a lot more in person now!

-snip-

Hot dog that is going to be one fun ride! A little bit of moron tubing, there?

To answer your question - the crankset issue isn't as limited by the dropout spacing as it is by the BB shell.

If you have a 68mm BB shell, you can run a road or mountain crank. If the shell is 73mm, you'll be going for a mountain crank.

If the shell is 68mm and you have both options at hand, or if your local shop is willing to help out, you can see whether or not there's clearance for the narrower q-factor of a modern road crank. There may be, it just all depends. My prediction is that without an s-bend chainstay, if the rear dropouts are 135mm spaced, there likely won't be enough clearance for a road crank arm.

No real recommendations on the crank. The best 1x crank/chainring combos in the industry these days are more modern looking than the Paul. Though, you could pair an aftermarket 1x cyclocross chainring with any 5bolt crank, and if the crank is square taper, you can have it on a spindle long enough such that the arm clears the chainstay.

[mistermo]

I have a Steelman Eurocross (or two) from the same era. I am opinionated in this area: Silver componentry is a must. Paul cantis are a no brainer. For cranks, I'd suggest the Sugino made, Ritchey Logic cranks with the chainring size of your choice, and maybe a chain guard. Another option is the WI ENO or VBC, but I'd pick the Ritchey. For a stem, Nitto Technomic II, or a Salsa, even though it won't be silver.

http://yoeddy.blogspot.com/2011/07/personal-rides-ibis-hakkalugi.html

[onomic]

Good luck with your build. Just curious what size frame is that? Do you know the top tube and seat tube lengths? Would love to see pics of your final build.

[tumbler]

Love those canti cable stops.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VkW3Gr2uk9M/TiPHmtRRYYI/AAAAAAAACfo/epx77oUa38o/s1600/DSCN3070.JPG

[adhumston]

Thanks for all of the replies! I'm pretty stoked to get started on the build, but it's going to have to wait a bit, as I'm in the process of building an Ibis Ripley as well ( yes, I'm an Ibis fanboy and not ashamed to admit it.. I also have a disc 'Lugi and Mojo SL!).

After doing more research and from the replies I've received here, I have pretty much decided on running a square taper crank with a Wolf Tooth drop stop chain ring. That will give me more options for crank arms, as I understand the chainline can be determined by the spindle length of the BB, essentially allowing me to choose the arms that I like by BCD and length (someone correct me if I'm wrong please).

As for the rest of the build (and color): I was originally intending on going with silver bits in an attempt to give it a more "period correct" look. However, after repeatedly staring at the frame hanging on the wall, I just cant help but think that the right black bits will really mesh well. I'm thinking a black Thomson post and stem (if I run an adapter), Salsa cowbell bars, Sram Apex shifters (left gutted), and a wifli Rival or Apex rear with a 32t cassette. I'm also thinking a brown Brooks saddle and bartape to add a little contrast. Brakes will definitely be Pauls. I think that build will give me a kind of 'modern retro' vibe.

Size wise the frame is a 52. I forgot the exact numbers already, but I believe a 52cm ST and around 53.5cm on the TT.

[dpmackey]

Nice find!
I have the same color - but i think it is a 98 in 54 st and 57 tt. Bought it a few years ago with some parts.
Here is the original spec so you can see measurements etc.
http://http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1997&brand=Ibis&model=Hakkalugi

I rebuilt mine in 2014, after a year of running it single speed, with a 10 speed silver centaur triple group. Bb is the same / correct size (68 shell and 111 spindle). I tried fitting a shorter spindle with a double and it wasn't working for me.

Rear spacing is 135 but i am and have only run with 130 rear on it - no issue for me (however i think my rear derailleur cage is bent - so cant give you an absolute answer that there are no issues as i do have some noise from the derailleur).

Only special solution was to make the front derailleur bottom pull so rigged a pulley.

Just mounted studded tires on my daytona / open pro wheels now - so am ready for the ice after taking a spill on the ice on my cyclocross tires yesterday! My tubular wheels for it are ambrosio red ano wheels to record hubs.

Other highlights of my build are paul cantis, syncros seatpost and flight saddle.

I found this thread as i was searching for a salsa stem for sale, that is the only thing nagging me about the build. Previous owner put in a threaded/threadless converter and i am running a planet - x stem now as i was trying to check reach/ drop before committing but am now officially trying to find a salsa 100 stem.... :)

[dpmackey]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/55622707@N08/16178829285/

Since i seem to be incapable of linking a photo - here is a link to photos from the 24th with road tires on my tubular wheelset

[Carl Strong]

Cool to see those old frames. Dave Kirk and I built a lot of those between 1999 and 2002. If it doesn't have a hand job chances are good we built it.

[gomango]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/55622707@N08/16178829285/

Since i seem to be incapable of linking a photo - here is a link to photos from the 24th with road tires on my tubular wheelset

Nice! :)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/16178829285_e1ee2677f4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qDEJhv)Bjäre (https://flic.kr/p/qDEJhv) by elllguapo (https://www.flickr.com/people/55622707@N08/), on Flickr